Automotive Tool General /atg/

>short barrel

pleb

>And finally a compressor. Yes, you'll need one. Ignore shit like "150 MAX PSI" and "BIG FANCY LETTERING ADVERTISEMENTS". There is exactly one, and only one spec that matters: SCFM @ 90psi. You want a bare minimum of 5 SCFM @90, and 6 is better. Anything over 6, and you're golden. CL is a great place to get a compressor, but everyone knows this, so they go really fast.

I think you should elaborate on this a little bit more. The reason you are looking for this metric is mainly for comparability with air tools. If you intend on using it for actually inflating tires, then this becomes less important.

>source: retard that just bought a 2.5 CFM @ 90 PSI 6 Gal HarborFreight air compressor and is in rationalizing the buyer's regret away

I spent $120 on the fcking thing. haven't even opened it yet

Return it. A 6gal is completely useless. Fuck man I bought this old 30gal made in USA 3 lung Dayton for $300, and it wasn't even that good of a deal.

If your really looking for a good compressor at home, just bite the bullet and buy a two stage 60 gal. That's next on my list.

Not him, but 60 gal seems huge. I've got a 5 gal compressor that my dad and I used to fame an addition on our house, it's never come up short on anything. Do rattleguns and the like really use up that much air?

Depends on how much air it can put out. Mines fine until I break out the DA or use the blasting cabinet, they will run it down pretty quick.

>Do rattleguns and the like really use up that much air?
No, they really don't, things that use air are sanders, grinder/die grinder, sandblaster, paint guns and similar, rattle guns don't use much air at all in comparison to what I listed, neither do air nailers.

a 3/4 rattle gun will drain a 5 gallon tank enough to start the pump again in one brap.

I'm looking for some 1/4" drive long ball end allen sockets in 3,4,and 5mm.

Who makes these?

>Knipex is GOAT
>n
>i
>p
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>x

>i
>s

>G
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>T

I felt that needed repeating.

I've used a dedicated nitrogen tank at 700psi for 3/4 gun, even a big compressor couldn't give it enough power to break centerlocks

>Snap-on isn't a meme
It is if you're talking handtools AND buying new. Cornwell, Mac, Matco, and SK literally have the same quality for less. Even basic-level "specialty" tools like coolant pressure testers and vacuum bleeders this is true on.

t. got memed with some Snap-On handtools

Too bad GearWrench is made in china and is complete shit tier. They have been for like 5 years now.

Its sad because they used to be very high quality tools.

>the same quality for less

Mac and Matco are both in the same price range while being the same quality.
Cornwell and SK are both lower quality in fit and finish for pretty much everything, still great hand tools though.

Everyone likes to shit on SnapOn prices, but I had all 3 dealers come to my school with the student discount SnapOn actually had the best discounts

Anyone get the new Matco flyer with the weird hexagonal edge boxes (no price but I assume this is aimed to compete with Epiq at a lower price). Kind of ridiculous looking imo. I don't see it on the website yet.

Just found one pic, it's called Revel. I like that little personal drawer on the top right

Another one

What 3/4 gun lets you pull the trigger at 700psi?

Waste of money.

You need to hold the inner tie rod stationary to use it. My IR2235 ain't gonna let that happen. Once the jam nut has been broken free, and the inner has been twisted a few revolutions, the outer should thread off fairly easily.

Any of them, just make sure to wear safety glasses and have a warranty (I don't think the pressure is that extreme at the gun because of the restriction of the hose and connector, it just does a better job keeping constant pressure instead of trailing off after the first few hits)

Cornhole is garbage. Sockets anyways. Most everything else can be purchased through OEM suppliers, like lisle. Same with Matco/Mac, an snap on to an extent.

SK makes very nice sockets, but lacks fine tooth ratchet options, although the round head ratchets they offer are quite nice. If you like USA tools, get one of their blow-molded case kits, and grab a gear-wrench flex head ratchet as your second one in that drive size.

Gear wrench is fine for non-pro use. Don't buy the shit tier ratcheting wrenches at sears/advance. Totally different product than the "good" ones.

Wright, Koken, SK, Sunex, VIM, Williams (USA), Williams (tiawan), gearwrench, Carlyle, etc.

ALL good brands that will stand up to daily abuse. Yes, some stuff HAS to come from the tool truck brands, but unless you need weekly payments, buy it online and save stupid money.

There is NO master brand.

Huh
I have a 3/4 IR at work, and at only 400psi it's very hard to pull the trigger against that pressure.

It was an old Snap On IIRC, it does bleed some pressure when it's hooked up, maybe there's a relief valve to prevent the trigger from being impossible to pull? Or it's just worn out from running way to much pressure for years. I don't know how air impacts work, haven't taken one apart, so can't say for sure.

>Snap-On student discount
I wish I ever had that. Shit's cash m8. Something like 60% iirc. With the exception of electrical or precision tools I won't pay the meme tax for NEW Snap-On stuff. I'll buy the fuck outta some second hand Snappy stuff though.
>Cornhole is garbage. Sockets anyways.
I do heavy suspension work, usually using a variety of 3/8" on an adapter or 1/2"(my 1" and 3/4" shit is SK, Great Neck, Stanley, and/or Craftsmen) most my sockets are Cornwell, and they stand the abuse as well as my Snap-On and Blue Point stuff.

Nice. I use CO2 tanks in various sizes to run impacts and inflate tires on the road when picking up junkers. (CO2 stores as liquid under pressure so it holds much more volume than an equivalent cylinder of compressed gas)

I've broken WAY to many Cornwell chrome sockets to ever consider them well made. Impact is impact, in my mind. Sunex is my go-to recommendation. Impacts are a wear item anyway, when you're in the rust belt.

Good advice, but I have 2 tiny issues:

>Talking about wrenches and sockets, don't get 12 point, get 6 point only. 12 points do have their place, but for someone just starting out, you don't need them.

Combo wrenches are hard to find in 6pt, and there's nothing wrong with getting 12pt combo wrenches.

>You'll need two of each size of wrench.
>For ratchets, you'll want 2 of each size

Nah m8 for the wrencher starting out on a budget this money is much better spent on a good torque wrench. You can get away with one wrench set and one ratchet set, and if you ever need to double-nut something grab an HF piece of shit as a holdover.

Gimme a sec and I'm gonna write up my budget-fag toolkit inna backpack. Grab & go for all basic wrenching.

Most trigger valves close themselves under flow/pressure, so the higher the pressure the harder it is to open them.

I buy a bunch of HF Pittsburgh steel metric sockets instead of name brand stuff

Unless you are professionally wrenching doughnut waste your money on top brand tools you are going to use a few times a year. HF sockets and wrenches work fine, I don't have faggot fairy hands so I don't give a flying fuck if it "feels good in your hand" I care that it loosens and tightens shit, which it does.

Guerilla toolkit inna backpack: for all the basic wrenching needs. Under 20lbs of shit to carry, one bag plus 2 items, and you're gonna be able to tackle a reasonable array of jobs.

I'm gonna organize this list per pocket of a particular surplus store backpack just because it makes it easier for me to remember.

>Stuck into loops on the outside:
dollar store inspection mirror
dollar store magnetic pickup tool
dollar store pen type air pressure gauge

>Small top pocket
Mechanix gloves
Oil filter wrench
2 "loose" sockets (your lug size & lug key if you have one, spark plug socket)

>Medium bottom pocket
Pittsburgh PRO T-handle ratcheting driver (COO Taiwan, one of those finds where it's HF off-branding an actually good tool)
Ratchet extensions (1/4, 3/8, 1/2)
Quality tamper proof bit set (includes 1/4" drivers for torx, hex, you name it)
Quality 1/4" socket driver (mine is old school craftsman)

>Main pouch 1 (smaller of the 2)
Metric sockets (on a twist lock rack, look up Tekton)
Socket adapters
Combo wrenches in a tool roll
needle nose pliers
Quality nihonese cutters
Fuckload of zip ties

>Main pouch 2 (bigger of the 2)
Box of rubber gloves (blue shop towels are a good idea too)
HF deadblow hammer (for "convincing")
Tool roll with channel lock pliers and larger socket drivers
Trim panel removal tools
Rechargeable trouble light

>carry along with:
Torque wrench in protective case
1/2" breaker bar

Isn't insanely expensive to put this kit together, I know it leaves you without impact tools but the key is cheap & mobile.

Note that this isn't an exhaustive list of every tool you'll ever need either, it's missing stuff like a code reader or multimeter. It's just designed to hold you over if, for instance, you're facing 1) a Bitchy HOA that forces you to work in autozone parking lots or 2) nowhere to put a well stocked workshop yet

Maybe it's just leaking, the gun does run really slowly if you leave it plugged in

>professionally wrenching doughnut
Hope this is the next title they go with, not really happy that the title already changed from mechanic to tech

Just remembered I saw one of these today at the hardware store, I bet it's really nice to use, might be a nice option between Milwaukee/Makita/Dewalt and Snap On, the main downside is the battery isn't going to work with anything else that's useful for a shop

> Gearwrench
Step it up senpai
They are usually specific. I remember i rented a couple of these, and none worked, i ended up just using a big ass adjustable wrench.

That's a sexy box.

For a good but affordable DMM, grab an Extech EX330. Bang for the buck, you absolutely will not find a better meter.

I'm going to check out one of those Chinese Flukes (not a ripoff, Fluke made in China for the China market) as a backup meter. The 17B+ seems like it has everything I need.

The Extech is like $40. How much is the Fluke?

I have an 87-V as my main, and an EX330 as my backup. Main problem with the Extech is the hard plastic case. Slides all over the place. Accuracy is dead fucking nuts though.

I have gotten 3 motorcycles, and my truck twice all back from the dead with these two sets. I've done countless maintenance and repairs on my friends jeeps and Honda's, and odds are I'll have them until I die.

If you're an amateur mechanic, I highly recommend one of the 160 piece Craftsmen sets, I've gotten more value it off a hundred dollars for this thing in a heartbeat.

$120 for the best feature Chinese fluke, there are some under $100 that are a bit more spartan

> New made in China sets
Bruh...

It's been three years of pretty much constant use and nothing has "failed" yet. If you are a professional, I wouldn't use this as you put much more stress on your tools and driving to Sears would be a pain.

If you are a hobbyist or just a guy in his garage, it's legit.

What tools/tricks should one have under one's belt for dealing with seized, rounded, or broken fasteners?

Things that come to mind are
>liquid wrench
>breaker bar
>hammer+cold chisel
>zip cutter

I use pb blaster. I also highly recommend a small budge torch. Heat is awesome.

If it's starting to go, I highly recommend an electric impact though. Seems to work for me, but people with more experience can prove me wrong gladly do I can know a better way

>normies discussin tools

Almost as bad as listening to writers trying to sell jobs

As much as I like ave, those meters are bullshit. Most of the ones on ebay/amazon are fakes of the fluke 12E. It' rather hard to come by original Chinese market 12E's. Extech meters are just as good as the 12E, maybe a bit more expensive, but you aren't gambling on whether or not you have an original fluke.

Hmm, I'll look into deeper. I also have an ESI, seems to be perfectly accurate but similarly to your Extech it's plasticcy and the controls are annoying.

hmmmm

What stops a normie from knowing about tools?

Normies and autists alike can often know shit about them

Post your on the job vape pen

Also you still have the Hyundai? I miss the Buick man.

Is this the mechanic version of a machinist dealing with people thinking a CNC mill is magic and takes no effort to make parts on?

Haha why even CNC anything, so retarded. You can literally 3d print anything. You can even 3d print a gun! Or a car part! CNC is dead gramps. 3d printing! Don't even have to get up from your computer chair, 3d printing has changed everything.

>on the job vape pen

wat

>you still have the Hyundai?

yep

>buick

I don't miss that thing at all.

Just remember that the chinese will polish a dog turd and tell you it's Belgian chocolate.
We have two of those meters that a coworker brought from china. One's the original, the other one isn't. The fake we doubt is up to the printed rating for safety (ours had dust from milling the isolation slot, bits of plastic rattling around, and a bit of rust on some contacts), but it seemed to be spot on for the few tests we conducted. Don't know long term how it keeps that accuracy. Fuses seemed to be proper ones, but MOVs and other failsafes were no-name components. Then they were put away in a box and never spoken of again.

To add to that, we also tested the $free.99 Harbor Freight meters. They weren't too far off (well under 1%, higher noise/ac might be more). All they did was lack protection for high voltage stuff, and the fuses would be relatively easy to pop. Continuity tester beep was also up there with the quickest we've seen. For auto applications, it's deems just alright, just figure out a way to get it to stand up, and label it such that it's never plugged into anything above 30VDC.

and make sure you fags buy all your tools made in usa.

>implying we all have the money to pay $20 per socket

heat

If you're gonna spend that much get something nicer.
amazon.com/EEVblog-BM235-Brymen-Multimeter/dp/B01JZ1ADCO
Nice batteries and fuses, quality test leads

> Normies
Who you calling normie?

>broken fasteners
Something to take your anger out on. We (industrial stuff) used to have an old printer and a crowbar out back.
Left hand extractor and tap and die set. Maybe even thread repair kit if tapping it out to a larger size isn't possible.

Shoo, dave.

A REAL BOBBY DAZZLAH

>Expensive screwdrivers are also not meme.
Yes, yes they are. I am a mechanic have have all kinds of screw drivers. The cheap ones work as fine as the expensive ones. And the cheap ones work as poorly as the expensive ones.

The REAL advice is to have a TON of screw drivers, and use the one that works best with said screw. I probably have 15 screw drivers of flat and standard.

My suggestion.

This man speaks the truth.

There it is.

I agree with you, however there is a caveat: Small (

I've twisted enough cheap screwdrivers to know this is bullshit.
But you wont be needing to put any real torque into screws on modern cars of thats what you plan on doing.

What the hell is 12/6 point and 72 tooth?
That's a big list also. Do you really need all that? And brand names? I never get people who obsess over brand names.
Half the shit in my box doesn't have any names on it, just the size, perhaps what it's made out of or where it's made.

>I chose the wrong tool for the job
>better blame the tool

You sound like an old widow

What's that supposed to mean?

No, I've chosen the only tool I had.

>Hur dur you need a bag just for screwdrivers because you need 15 of each flavor

Where did you get those tools, if you are this retarded?

>T H E B E S T
>T
>H
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>B
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>T

Some people can get by just fine without a fine toothed ratchet, but when you find yourself in a tight space they're almost magical. Same goes for 12 and 6 point, although there is argument on whether or not what causes rounded bolts. As for brand names, you only need to look at the profile and angles of combo wrenches to see one is built better than the other, and will be far less clunky to use.

The green handle hobo freight screwdrivers have crappy phillips heads and don't fit worth a damn, but generally you're right.

The more expensive ones with round shanks and hex shapes on the handles are pretty cool though.

>PRO T-handle ratcheting drive
Did not know that existed. Thanks man, it's added to the list for next time I stop by HF.

What's wrong with my tools? They work fine for everything I've needed to fix on my truck.

That's it? The more expensive ones are just easier to handle? I've never cared about the "feel" of my tools. Just if they get the job done or not.

>fucking up those bits while not marring the shanks at all

that'spretty good

Where did you get them, if you know nothing about tools.

Because I don't care about brand names I know "nothing about tools". You're a dumbass ain't ya.

Answer the question retard, where did you get your tools? Because last time i checked Snap-on is one of those "brand names" that you "Don't care about lol"

PS. Thats not why i said you know nothing about tools

So you're not a mechanic then? I see hundreds of different screws, with barely different depth, with slightly different X length, with slightly thicker walls etc. Sorry you work on one car and you still managed to fuck it up.

Out of the back of my truck. And I don't care about the snapon ones anymore then the rest. They are just wrenches.

Do you know if matco makes these? I have a feeling I've some of these at an expo, from a different brand targeted mainly at industrial use. I'll check out grainger to try and find what I'm talking about.

>jacks, jackstands
No. Don't double up on retard. I recently bought 3ton jacks and the welds on them don't inspire confidence. Cheap and good: AC-Delco has good looking stands.

There is only a debate on 6 and 12 point by morons. Different bolts require different points.

12
>thinner walls
>used for lightly tightened shit/easy repairs

6
>thicker
>less likely to strip hard to remove bolts/used for heavier duty shit

Not by profession.
But if I'm paying you to dig through your set of screwdrivers to find the exact one that fits perfectly, just to take out a screw that has literally 2 in/lb on it, then you can fuck off.

I've literally twisted a T-25 tip right off, trying to take apart an alternator. There is no defence, cheap screwdrivers are a waste of space, get one good one of each size and be done

Your post is the bullshit ramblings of a widow that thinks because she was married to a mechanic for thirty years that she knows everything he did about tools.

LOL you pay for the book hours moron. If it's 5 book hours and takes me 2, you still pay 5. If it takes me 8, you still pay 5. The difference is, the 30 seconds it takes me to find the right screw drive in my roll around cart saves me from paying for dozens of new screws I would fuck up every week.

You MUST be a teenager, you are far too stupid to be a real adult.

>muuhhhhh anecdotal evidence
I have some of that too. My snapon screwdrives have stripped many screws, and my shitty milwaukee has removed many. I even have a little black one from Harbor freight I used today on a corolla, worked perfectly. Like it has for the last 2 years.