QTDDTOT - QUESTIONS THAT DON'T DESERVE THIER OWN THREAD

If your distributor cap and rotor needs to be replaced then you might as well do spark plugs and wires as well. No you should. Full tune up oil change air filter clean out pcv set the plug gap check your timing

I paid 4000 for my shitbox fox, not a gt though

while ago I replaced the spark plugs, maybe 3 months ago, I should do them again im guessing?

Since im a cheap bastard, on rockauto, I should order distributor cap and distributor rotor along with spark plug wiring set?

Oops I meant or just the D.Cap and not the rotor.

If you just did sparkplugs take them out and look at them/clean them. Google how to read your spark plugs. Definitely change your spark plug wires if the arcs are coming off the spark plug wires. But yes, if you're going to do the cap you might as well do the rotor, get good parts, they're usually cheap anyways. Now throw the old cap and rotor in your trunk so if your new ones ever break you have a spare.

If on a super budget then just lightly sand the brass on the old rotor until it's clean. But really just replace it. If the gap between rotor and cap gets too big then you won't get as much spark to your plugs

Lol, I meant to do that earlier, but came home and fapped. AFAIK the arcing was just on that wire going to dist cap to some place near engine. I will inspect again and see if there is any arcing on spark plug wires. But for 12 bucks, I might as well replace them.

Naa im not on super budget, I am planning to buy the parts on my next paycheck.

That wire is your ignition coil wire then and your other Ht wires are just as old so good for changing them.

Don't listen to the assholes dude that's a great deal and a good looking car!

I don't know what that other user was saying. Fox bodies are still cheap but are all at least 23 years old. Try to find a clean car over 23 years old for under 3k

Should I replace my fucked engine mounts with OEM shit that fucks up within 40k miles (i travel maybe 8-10k miles a year) or buy aftermarket ones

Mazdaspeed 3 stock power.

I doubt OEM parts shit the bad after 40k miles. But if they do go aftermarket, worst case scenario you replace them again next year. What's the cost difference? Make sure there's no other mounts that are also worn out, that could cause your motor mounts to wear out prematurely

They are oil filled and everyone complains about them blowing up at 30-40k miles.

Cost difference is about $200 ish and the aftermarket ones are way worse for NVH.

I've replaced one mount already and now the other 2 are fucked, the 2 that hold the engine in place lol.

either see if the stealership have them tomorrow or wait 2 weeks for aftermarket ones.

Ahhh I see they aren't just rubber mounts. If you don't mind the rattles the aftermarket would be fine. See if you can ride in a car that has them. Personally I would get OEM, you're not going to have to deal with it for at least two years, and if you want to sell it then you can say look at these nice shiny Mazda motor mounts, this vehicle has been well cared for and not driven hard in the slightest

Yea good idea. Thanks mate, I'll just buy OEM ones later and when I need to swap them out again i'll buy aftermarket ones for when I want more power lol. Just hoping the local stealership or someone has them locally.

Has anyone had problems with idiot passer-bys taking exposed hardware?
Smashed my grill assy. and want to wait for a good deal but I'm concerned some mouthbreather will think it's funny to steal my condenser mounting bolts at the supermarket.

How much oil is too much Veeky Forums? I have to refill about 0.1-0.15L per 1000km on my gas powered DD. Is that ok? The manual states 0.4L per 1k km tops but I find that amount ridiculous.

>5.0
But that's even better

I've driven manual for about 1.6 years. I haven't stalled for a while, but I'm having trouble with starting from stop.

I might have misunderstood something when I first did all my reading on how to drive manual. I can either give it some gas and let go of the clutch quickly, but this jerks the car. I assume that's not good.
Or I can give it gas continuously as I'm coming to the bite point and never letting off. This is usually smooth, but I feel like I'm burning my clutch when I do this.

What am I doing wrong and what am I suppose to be doing?

Does anyone know a good substitute for the adhesive that comes with the cobb AP stand? I put mine in a shitty spot so it peeled off after a couple weeks and I'd like to keep it hooked up to see my FP pressure and do a few logs.

Jb weld

>Or I can give it gas continuously as I'm coming to the bite point and never letting off. This is usually smooth, but I feel like I'm burning my clutch when I do this.
Do this and you are ok. Just find a spot where you can let it go quickly enough for it to be smooth yet it won't jerk the car.
Source: My whole family has only manuals and all of us do it that way yet we never had a clutch breakage in any of our cars.

Forreal? It wouldn't leave any nasty marks on the dash if I decide to move it at some point?

So I'm not killing my clutch when doing that? I thought I was, riding the clutch or whatever, a little when I was doing it that way. It's why I keep going back and forth.

Thanks, senpai.

is that a 2010+ MS3?

Well you do grind it a little but it doesn't matter. We had plenty of cars, from hatchbacks to vans and with various mileage too (but nothing above 250k km) and never had a faulty clutch.
Just don't make it grind too much and you are in the clear senpai.

it's getting there (your usage)
my 200k DD uses (or loses) less than .5l every 8k (5k miles for burgers)
however, there are (relatively new) nissan engines that use 1l/1k and the manufacturer insist that's normal so ... it can be worse

Yeah, last-gen VW TDI that my dad has uses a ridiculous amount of oil after 200k (almost 1L/1k km) but that engine is pretty much fucked.

Problem is that my car is only 85k but I do max it quite often. Are there any additives that might help with oil consumption?

no
never put anything in your oil
never
unless you want to sell it withing the next few days
what I would do if I were you is
1: look for leaks
2: check compression
3: decide if you want to keep it or not

Yea, 2011 cbm tech pack. Got the intake, rmm, ap, hpfp, intercooler boost tube done

thank you kind stranger

Is 2004 Toyota Corolla engine supposed to be that loud?

how's your 1st->2nd shift when cold?

Smoother after the rear motor mount but it's still got that bang to it. Gotta perfectly match if you want a smooth shift out of it. It hasn't been running too cold since the weather has picked lately and I let it warm up for a minute or two before I start going.

I have trouble getting it in 1st after I reverse out of my driveway on a cold morning. 1-2 is fine though.

Sounds more like a synchro issue. Next time you have trouble, with it out of gear, foot off the clutch, then back on, should slip right into 1st

My car (actually my wife's) is still under warranty (until aug 2012) and I've had a really hard time convincing the dealer that something is wrong (and I want them to fix it, whether under warranty or for money)
It's a good thing I have a lawyer friend who will do stuff for me.
The trial is scheduled for June this year
I can't wait!

The bad part (for them) is that they put it in writing saying that:
1: something is wrong
2: they didn't do anything to find it
3: they "advised" me to go somewhere else to get it fixed
4: not fixing it will lead to damage

I mean how stupid can you be to put that in writing?

>(until aug 2012)
Might be a little past that day, pal.

Hope the trial goes well.

I meant aug this year
the car was bought in aug 2012

here's they only thing I can think of why they would do this...does it have anything to do with the clutch? It counts as a "wearable item" so they generally don't cover it on any warrenties and will refuse to cover it. If not, then boy oh boy they dumb.

Should you replace your wipers every year or only when they streak badly?

If they still wipe properly, no need to replace them.

clutch is fine
also, no matter how cold it is, if you don't go past 2k in 1st, you can go straight into 2nd without problems
also, no matter how cold it is, if you pass through N before putting into 2nd (like 1st, back, right, left back), everything is perfect
also, no matter what you are doing under what circumstances, there are no problems

so, if they would have told me something like:
"yeah, it's the mount and or shifter bushings but it's not covered by warranty"
I would have been more than happy
parts can't be more than $200 and I can do the work myself

stubborn idiots that will have to pay (one way or another)

here is a foxbody for under $3000 that is in decent shape
ashtabula.craigslist.org/cto/6032625578.html

Why is the late 90s corolla interior so small in comparison to a Camry? I had a 97 and that was the only thing I didn't like about the car

The brake line on my car that goes from the LR wheel to the RR wheel has a hole in it and now only the last 5% of my brake pedal has any pressure, only being good for stopping below 10mph. if I just pinch off the brake line to the rear I will at least have enough pressure to allow the front brakes to work, right? Only need the car for another month and we've been pretending that its capable of going though 4x4 trails for the past week and I intend on continuing these adventures until it finally stops being able to move.

I wanted to import or buy a r32 Skyline, but I noticed there were a lot of variations when looking for ones to import. Are there any I should ignore, or are they mostly the same car? I want to learn to drift in one if that helps in deciding which model to choose.

>He wants to import a car so he can drift in it
Don't. When you buy a drift car, just count on destroying it. You need something CHEAP, because modifying the steering to have enough angle and the rest of the suspension to make it more driftable is going to cost money. Then you need to be able to buy tires and any other equipment you need. An imported Skyline GTS will probably run you $20k to start with. You're far better off finding a clapped-out S13, S14, Foxbody, or F-body to drift.

you could try moving up an oil weight, if you run 5w 20 try 5w30 for example. Sometimes the thicker oil can help reduce blowby or oil burnoff and make it last longer.

you'd need to bleed the brake lines, at the very least. Brake lines are pressurized systems, a leak anywhere means a loss of pressure for the entire system. If you patched the leak by bypassing your rear breaks, and rebled the fronts then you would have pressure to front brakes, they would work, just don't try locking them up cuz your ass would fishtail like a mofo.

Ok thanks user, you have a good point

Haven't changed my air filters in 60k miles. What am I hurting on my car?

didnt get to reply before the thread closed
third gen firebird, doesnt have coilovers just a 25 year old suspension system

What is the widest tire I should be running on a Toyobaru, front and back?

As other user said you are okay, smooth is good, just find a good middle ground between the two. Clutches are meant to slip. The people we yell at for slipping clutches are doing things like slipping their clutch for 2 minutes while waiting for a traffic light

Skinny for mpgs and just wide enough that it doesn't hit anything on car for max hydroplaning

I have 100 little white rock chips in the hood of my red Honda Accord. What's the best way to fix these without getting a repaint or nail polish. do repair kits really work or do they look like off colored spots

Has anyone tried swapping cg10de pistons into a cg13de? heard quite a bit about it in forums but never heard what sort of power it gives/if its worth doing at all

I get literally 0 feedback from the steering in my mazda. If i removed power steering would that help? It's so fucking boring to drive.

Try putting in some stiffer springs or a thicker sway bar

without sanding it down smooth, it will always look "off". Put either a bra on the front of the car to hide it or get it repainted, I wouldn't waste any money on a paint repair kit.

Every so often, about 1 in 10 starts (completely random cannot replicate at will) my traction control gets "fucked up" and i get a service traction and stability systems message. Now also i can hear and feel a very light, faint grinding type sound when i turn the wheel sharply while going very slow and seems to really only do it when i step on the gas. Could these be related? went to the mechanic and he basically said if there's no "symptoms" then it's fine and would be a waste of money to fix which i kind of think is bullshit, i dont want to ignore "problems" only to have that shit break even worse later.

Were there any generation of Malibu that were considered reliable? I saw an 06 that looked good

What's causing the corrosion on my battery terminal? I'm tired of cleaning it constantly I want to get rid of it.

The corrosion is caused by hydrogen gas being released from the acid inside the battery. Buy some of that red terminal protector stuff from any auto parts store.

Whats with le ebin "60-100 MPG CAR MADE BY USING THIS ONE WEIRD TRICK THAT OIL COMPANIES DONT WANT YOU TO KNOW" mods on cars???

is this just bullshit or some esoteric form of ignition thats unreliable and costs a lot of money?

the only thing I can think of is that they just vaporize the fuel as close as possible

>what are subcompacts?

>air filtersssss
most vehicles only have one not counting cabin air filters
>what am i hurt?
the engine or turbocharger if applicable
>air filter is rip/torn
>engine eats air
>air is dirty/sandy/a nigger
>engine is now the same condition
OR
>air filter is clogged
>engine can't get enough air
>runs rich
>fucks o2 sensors and cat
most air filter intervals are 30k miles

You get 100 mpg with a 0.9l Diesel econobox drafting trucks on the highway.
Or any econobox if you hypermile the shit out of it (taping shut air vents and any openings in the body, doing surge and coast, driving so slow that you never really have to brake except if something uinforeseen happens, etc.
Not much of a secret to it, it's just impractical and not worth it unless fuel costs 30 bucks a gallon.

no, like hummers and Jeep XJ, getting 50 to 70 MPG, no aero body kit or any goofy shit, just an engine swap or engine mod

Recommend me a good used econobox from 2010-present.

Mazda2 or the fugly ass rebadge of the Mazda2, the Scoin iA/Toyota Yaris iA

Need a warm hatch as a first car.

In the UK and looking to spend 2500. Needs to be around 2000 on insurance.

Torn between Yaris SR 08 and Swift Sport 07.

Any advances on those choices?

What do you use to clean the inside of your car, i was eating burgers aand fries and my hands got greasy and i touched the plastic and leather

Can i clean it with water and a towel or can i use wet wipes

Looking for a tracking car which I will sometimes daily as well.

My options right now:
- E36 328i Coupe, low running costs prices are €3-5k.
- FD3S type R, high running costs prices are €11-13k (dream car for years).

Other suggestions would be appreciated. Has to be coupe and rwd. Budget is €15k and live in the Netherlands.

so i just got some chink seat covers from gearbest
www . gearbest . com/car-seat-cushion/pp_288151.html?wid=21

do i need to wash them first?

somebody?

Kys

ONCE TOLD ME

I bought an SN95 5.slo with all bolt one, engine and suspension for $900 once. Maybe you just need to hang out with crackheads like I did. Oh, and he said it was a thousand, but I paid him $20 a week and just stopped at 900. He sent death threats, but he's a beta cuck so he didn't do shit.

Pretty sure he was looking for numbers, dumbass.

Have you never heard "if it sounds too good to be true"? It's all bullshit, idiot.

Get an early 2000s VR6.

Insurance is around 8 grand on those for me. They have 200bhp and the cars I was originally considering are around 130. I would love a vr6 though.

Move to the US. A 16 year old could insure one for $700 a year, and the car could be had for $2000 because it's "old".

Git gud

denver.craigslist.org/cto/6067509631.html
denver.craigslist.org/cto/6062909580.html
denver.craigslist.org/cto/6049949762.html

I take short commutes to work and back, mostly taking about 15 min. The water temp gets to operating temp the first kilometer, however when I reach my destination, the oil is still around 60-70°, in cold winters sometimes not even that.
Will this kill my engine/turbocharger?
The turbine has already been replaced once after half a year of using the car (bought new, so warranty). Not sure if improper lubrication was what caused it.

Pls some advice

Just bought a used truck with 75,000 miles on it.

If I am not sure if the maintenance was done, should I go ahead and follow the maintenance schedule for the stuff that was at say, 60k miles?

>be me
>buy first car with help of parents a few months ago
>start getting le car itch
>saving up money, have half a mind to go behind their back and acquire le manual project car

Do it or nah? I basically don't want em to think I took advantage of them or I'm ungrateful.

Which is the most reliable Compact MPV in europe, preferably petrol powered and post 2010.

I'm about to trash my 1997 renault megane scénic 1.6 8v with 270k km on it.

Should I consider the new scénic?

Also, follow up question, if I don't use it that often, I can probably get away with not changing the oil in the transfer case or front differential as often as well, right?

Is there an RS, SVT, or whatever version of this specific model of Focus? I know there are the new face lifted 3rd gens, but I want specifically the pre face lift