What are some of the best handling mods you can do?

® Reduce weight
® Good tires at the correct air pressures
>...
Everything else depends on the vehicle and how you want the car to drive.

Cars have this big blob of bone and sinew between the steering wheel and the seat. Some call it "driver", I call it "Organic Dynamic Control Interface".

Point is, you should begin by upgrading that before spending money on other mods. No amount of mods will help if you're a retard who doesn't know what he's doing.

I love these chicken threads

Official Thread Theme

youtube.com/watch?v=BvaExDwQ5cU

put a steering wheel in

Weight reduction.

ah yes another one for my collection

Recaro seats
cold air intake(CAI)
exhaust(catback)
sick wheels and stance...
stickers
rear wing

why do you save the shit ones? and not the ones i occasionally post that take actual effort to make?

dump them all

40 disk cd changer

I'll give you this one, but in future please look out for them!

>mods
Don't. Use bolt in aftermarket replacement parts.
Front shocks should have less compression resistance. Rear shocks should have more.
Choose springs based off how your car navigates bumps and turns. In FF cars putting a higher spring rate w/ weaker (softer) shocks will cause loss of traction. Putting stiffer shocks on the front of an FF kills your turning. So keep or reduce front spring rates. On the rear you want springs just barely stronger than the shocks, in FR or FF your actual handling comes from keeping the rear tires land bound and following the front (going around a muddy/snowy bend should leave only two tire tracks, where the rear followed right into the front's tracks) there's always going to be some inaccuracy, since 90% of rear wheels don't turn.
Stronger bearings, hubs, tie-rods, and ball joints. No point in tearing your wheels off hooning, be safe, take care of the weak points, grease with every oil change.
Alignment:
For FF (on FR I use factory specs most of the time)-
>Front
Toe: -0.25 (this is just enough to eat tires, -0.15 is better for tires and doesn't kill topspeed as badly)
Camber: -0.5 (put the drivers weight in the driver's seat while adjusting this)
Caster: Factory spec most of the time. Less caster = better turning/worse stability, more caster = more stability/less turning
>Rear
Toe: -0.07
Camber: -0.2
Caster: What are you, GM?

Seat time that is all there is to it. Now get out there and do some autocross events I just did my third one last night

youtu.be/SS5hwmm91yk

Preach it from the mountain! People put stronger rear sways in FF cars also to tighten up the back a bit to reduce understeer. It helps a lot. Throwing a 25mm rear sway bar for $120 made more of a difference than going from 150k mile OEM suspension to brand new. Doing basic things to improve balance help more than slapping power down or doing random supposed improvements without reasoning. Tires keep your contact with the road. They are the single most important thing!

how many chickens do you have?
is it always the same chicken or you choose random ones?

this.
when you start to alter suspension, its best to do it intelligently and as an entire system. Quite often the benefits a person feels from a single part upgrade is because the stock part had 100,000 miles on it and was worn out.

Tbh ralliartfag is the best poster on Veeky Forums

> Sell it and buy a smaller car instead.
> Weight reduction
> Go on a fucking diet; 100lb of fat is the same as removing a seat.
> Lowered suspension

panhard bar for me
it depends on your car

>tfw nearest autocross track is 4 hours north of me
Living in Florida is suffering