QTDDTOT / SQT

vatozone always carries seals, they're cheap. Don't be acting like you're on food stamps

>Complex mess of floaters, valves, Jets and vacuum tubes is better than a few wires, a bunch of injectors and a control module.

I don't understand why you would trust something 10x more complex in an old ass shitbox

Any patch job would only make it leak worse. Replace the whole thing.

RI told me theres no way I can drive a car that was gifted to me to my home state in NY and need to get it towed

wat do

oil capacity is 3.8 quarts, can I just pour in 4 quarts and be fine with it? really don't want to carry around 0.2 quarts. 2007 honda fit, thanks

If I got a custom ground cam where the exhaust and intake lobes were reversed, could I attach an intake to the exhaust ports on the cylinder head and have it exhaust out the intake ports?

Is the transponder chip in my key wireless or does it physically connect through the ignition? Could I get a smaller key fob without a remote but with a transponder chip, or even transponder unit separate to a key?

It's wireless, there is an antenna on the key barrel.
Most of them are just plastic rings around the barrel like pic related

I know it's stupid but I hate how large my key fob is and I don't really care about the remote. You think I could put the RFID coil and key in a much smaller fob without issue?

As long as it's still very close to the antenna I don't see issues with that

Thanks. I couldn't find much searching but I see you can get smaller blanks with transponder chips already inside. Still not as small as I'd like but much better.

yeah, you'll be fine. you can put quite a bit of oil past the full mark like .75qt worth and still be ok.

my car's coolant resivoir seems to be getting empty every few months, is this normal?
I don't really see any leaks
99 jeep grand cherokee 4.0

I'm trying to find some M7 Allen head bolts, but I'm having a hard time finding exactly what I need because I'm not too familiar with the terminology of fasteners. I'm looking for an Allen head bolt where the head tapers in towards the threads, but all I'm finding are bolts like pic related where the head tapers away from the threads. I want something with the same amount of taper and the same sized head, like if you took these bolts and flipped the heads upside down.

Would anyone know the name of a bolt like that or where I could find them?

>complex
You get more power by easily tuning with a screwdriver than trusting deteriorated 30 year old wires. I'd only do an ECU tune if I redid the wiring but fuck that shit, I'm not a electrical engineer or an electrician

Not really normal but doesn't seem to be emptying too fast either.
It may be leaking into the cylinders and burning away as the engine runs so you don't see obvious leaks around the engine.

If you are absolutely sure there are no external leaks, just keep the level in check and keep in mind you probably have a very small head gasket leak that will slowly become worse over time.
If you find yourself refilling it every other day, the exhaust has plenty of white smoke and there are still no external leaks, it's time to fix the headgasket before it causes too much damage

Countersunk is what you are looking for

how much of a job is the headgasket?
I don't know the last time it was replaced, if ever
I got it at around 140k and it's up to 167k or so now

Ease of performance tuning wasn't mentioned anywhere in the original post.
It seemed pretty clear to me that the main point was carb reliability vs EFI reliability and injectors are more reliable than carbs by a long shot

Depends on the engine, really.
Usually it involves removing the valve cover, the timing belt/chain, the camshaft(s), the intake and exhaust manifolds and a few bolts keeping the head down.
Some engines are easier than others and may not even require you to remove the camshaft or the manifolds for example (a lot of SOHC are like this), others may have a lot more shit in the way and V engines have two heads so double the trouble.

All in all, the parts are relatively cheap, but the job can take several hours depending on how much stuff you have to remove to get to the head gasket.

Also expect to make a complete drain and replacement of coolant and oil while changing head gaskets

I just want the most of the motor, the chassis weighs 3000lbs. If I wanted to have EFI in it I'd swap a 1UZ but I wouldn't do that till the motor somehow dies.
Just worried since the car is 30 years old, just heard something about AE86 guys converting their 4A's EFI to Carb back in the day for easy power instead of paying for a tune.

Well if your main goal is power the go for carb, from your original post it looked like your main concern was reliability so that's why I told you to go EFI

I have a 2009 dodge caliber with about 94000 miles on it.

Last night I was driving home from work. After about a 10 minute freeway drive, I hit the first stop light from the off ramp. After maybe 30 uneventful seconds the whole car shuddered and stalled out. Threw it into park and it started up no problem, drove home slowly and sat in a parking lot for a few minutes to see if it would do it again. No problems.

Today I drove back to work where I have a similar stoplight situation right off the freeway. Sat there for about a minute. The RPMs dipped uncomfortably close to 500, but it seemed to stop when I turned off the air conditioner.

Fuel injection or electrical? In a moment of foresight I bought a fuel system cleaner that I'm going to throw in when I fuel up tonight. I guess calibers tend to get gunky fuel injection. My MPG hasn't gone down drastically, but I have noticed a mild decline.

What's the model of that one Pontiac that has the rear window that goes over the top of the car?

Which lexus is the better buy. Because I can't find an is 300 or a ls 400

2008 Ford Fusion sel awd
2011 Ford Taurus sel
Which is a better?

>tfw you order your new gt500 spoiler and have it painted by the dealer, but they painted over the gurney flap which is supposed to be left unpainted and black

what do I do?

send it back, citing dissatisfaction, obv.

Is 16.5k for a used chevy camaro a good deal? It has 40k it and is about 3.5 lower than kbb

Have you tried telling that to the dealer instead of Veeky Forums?

they've been closed for two hours now

Call them tomorrow duh

Should I buy this?

...

No

My hunk of shit Malibu is extremely rusted and was spraying gas everywhere trough the lines. As a fix I ran 12ft of fuel line through my car to the access panel I cut under the backseat to the fuel pump. Is this a shot fix or could it last for a while till I can afford something better?

I'm a gay phone poster because I'm at work
through*
shit*

Yes

What engine mod would give me the most performance per dollar?

As long as the clamps are tight it's good.
I wouldn't use rubber tubes if they run under the car for too much though, try to use the rigid plastic ones if you can snag them from a scrapyard, assuming they were available for your car.

A single mod won't do shit if it's not used in conjunction with other mods.
A bigger intake manifold is useless if you leave a tiny throttle body, different cams won't give you the best if you don't touch ignition timing, CAIs alone will do jack shit, new headers won't help if you leave the stock exhaust and so on. And at the end of all this you will still need a tune.

Pick an area you want to upgrade and slowly work your way towards reworking it completely. Maybe start from the intake: get a new filter, then bigger manifolds, then bigger throttle body, then injectors. If it's turbo get bigger turbine, pipes and intercooler.

You won't find a miracle mod that is cheap and gives you 100hp out of the box

Who got
where's it at

But the stock manifold, exhaust and throttle body are already good

Should I look at new heads, crank and cams? Coyote 5.0 btw

Not an expert on your engine, sorry

Can I DD a 2002 Mustang GT?

Looking at either purchasing a Mustang GT or a Ford Ranger 4x4.

We have lots of state land and trails to go wheeling down, but on the other hand I hardly travel down them. That might change if I had a vehicle I trusted to tackle simple service roads.

But I truthfully spend a lot of time on pavement. Unfortunately, I live on a dirt road that gets pretty rutted up when frost comes out. I have a winter beater, but I want something for summer.

Mind is set on a Ranger or Mustang. Considered a Miata, but living in the rust belt, they're going for 5-8k for a NA if it's "rust free", which just means "surface rust everywhere"

Is it possible to heel-toe with your heel on the floor?

Depends on the width of your shoe, and the spacing between the pedals but yes you can rev match with just the ball of your foot.

That's a horrible deal, why would you buy an 88 Camaro for that much?

Yes. Just depends on how close the pedals are. I made this so i can heel toe effortlessly.

...

>That fabrication
Well.. I'll give you credit for trying.

I have a '94 Nissan Altima that used to need a coolant refill every couple days. No external leaks. Something that I quickly realized is that if I topped the coolant to maximum it would drain really quickly(1/2 every 10 miles), but the lower it goes, the slower it drains. It's above 1/4" above the min level and it has stopped leaking ever since. What could be the issue?

Also, is it safe to drive with that low level of a coolant? Took a chance and drove it from Salt Lake to Las Vegas last weekend, no overheating issues, and coolant was still at 1/4" above min level when I got back. But am I risking some engine blow up scenario?

Why don't they use ABS technology for accelerating?

>2wd

No

Anyone have experience returning newly purchased tires? I went from oem potenza re050a to michelin as3 in my fiesta st. New tires do not grip as well in extreme conditions. Wondering if I can return them.

no

Update:

So I'm a little more confident it's some kind of power draw from the air conditioner.

After work I took it to the gas station to throw in the fuel system cleaner and fill up. First I let it idle in drive for a little while.
Now, when I'm cruising surface streets I'll hang around 1000-1500 rpm. On freeway I'm closer to 2500 rpm. Idling in drive nets me about 650 rpm. When I turned on the AC, however, it dipped down to about 550 rpm and wavered between 650 to 550 every time it sounded like the AC was cycling on. I also noticed that when I first turned the AC on, my headlights dimmed.

Would a power draw like this cause a random stall? When it stalled last night all the electronics and lights were still on and it turned over with no problem right after.

I got my alternator replaced last September because the pulley went bad and it sounded like hell whenever I had the engine on. I would've replaced it myself but I worked my jewish magic to get it replaced for less than it would have cost to do it myself. However, the bumblefuck mechanic had to take the entire AC unit out and recharge it because Dodge designers are retarded and the mechanic wouldn't just slide it out of the way still connected.

Could this be related? Am I even on the right track here?

You mean traction control?

I mean why is wheelspin even allowed?

Yea ac can cause a stall. Puts a load on the engine, idle RPMs drop. Normally your cars idle control handles this kind of thing, or turning on AC triggers a fast idle valve, etc. If its a simple screw adjust idle or whatever fast idle / idle control you have isn't working right, it can stall out. AC compressors take some serious power to spin.

Though from how you described it (fluctuate from 550 to normal 650 based on ac load) it sounds like your idle control system is fine.

I haven't seen anything else that makes me worry about the idle control, so I agree I think it's fine. So a power issue then? My electricals all work fine even when it stalled last night, so I'm assuming my alternator is still good.

>Plastic clutch pedal
>'The Ultimate Driving Machine'

Are aftermarket remote starts any good? I saw some the other day at the parts store but was in a hurry and didnt look at them. I just want it because my engine needs a little while to warm up. I hate starting it and leaving it, id rather just start it while the doors are still locked.

>Tried redlining my car for the first time
>Almost hit redline but pussy out
>Smell weird smell right after

What could it be?

>Anytime im in 6th and reach 83 mph I start to hear a rapid ticking noise between the center dash/console and the back of the motor

Could they be related?

Depending on how old the car is, you probably just just sucked some oil past the valve stem seals. redlining is good for an engine 'once in awhile', shake everything loose and blow it out. Also, I doubt that noise and smell are related. I hear a ticking noise at high speeds in my car, but sounds more like an electrical spark tick if anything, don't know if you can hear that though.

is it worth getting a 2014 gt a dyno tune? The only 'mod' is an axleback exhaust

I don't know much about euro cars since they all look the same and are just numbered like graphics cards 328, s550, c300 a4 etc
Can someone give me a quick rundown of understanding European car models if there is an easy way at all?
Also where does the Ford gt350r fall compare in terms of performance and luxury and other shit, a BMW m4?
Pic unrelated

Don't know about other manufacturers, but older BMW'S were named based on series and engine displacement.

It makes shopping for older BMW'S a breeze.

No messing around trying to determine what engine is in the car, no trying to determine if it's AWD, or wondering if it has a LSD.

I wish all manufacturers followed it. In fact, it would've been goat if BMW continued on with that naming convention.

I can't bleed my brakes because the screw(not sure what it's really called) seized up and refuses to move. What do & where would I find the correct size for replacement screws?

how does a diff work
what is an open diff
i understand how a welded diff works in theory but why do people do it? mad skidz?

You can buy replacement bleeder screws and you can buy bleeder screw repair kits.

Grab a pair of quality vice grips and grind two flat edges on the bleeder screw. Use a pair of cheater bars if you're a bit of a bitch to clamp down on the flat spots you created. When you think the vice grips are tight turn the nut down a smidge more before clamping down.

If your vice grips are of quality they'll bite into the bleeder screw and you won't have to waste time grinding flat edges down.

Or you can buy new calipers.

Like what years made?
Give an example name?

Thanks user. I don't come here very often but I always appreciate Veeky Forums being so helpful.

the image should be self explanatory

the drive shaft is rotated by the engine, if you were standing behind the car, it spins right to left

however the wheels need to spin forward and backward, the differential and the end of the drive shaft has weird shaped interlocking metal gears that essentially rotate that power. the diff is connected to both wheel axels which are rotated by the drive shaft through the diff which makes the wheels turn

a locked differential is "basic" in that it sends power to both wheels equally

an open differential can adjust how much torque is sent to each wheel based on whatever the manufacturer or engineer wants, usually to remove torque from a wheel that is spinning because no grip

lets say it sends the power to the inside wheel on a turn
too little power on the outside wheel and it will understeer (the car goes straight)
too much and the car will oversteer (the car turns too much probably will lose grip and spin out)

You didn't understand how welded diffs work if your first question is how a diff works

>how does a diff work?
Just watch a video, really, it takes a wall of text to explain it and you would still have troubles figuring it out. It's one of those things that are super obvious when you see them in motion, but are kind of hard to explain concisely.
BTW its main purpose is to allow the tractive wheels on the same axle to rotate at different speeds when a car is turning.

>what is an open diff?
A normal, basic differential that you find on pretty much every car out there. It's called like that to distinguish it from other, more advanced forms of differentials that are called LSD (Limited Slip Differential) and allow to overcome one of the major drawbacks of open diffs, which is the tendency to send all the torque to the wheel with less traction. There are various types of LSDs and you often find them on off-road vehicles and sports cars.
There are also other types of lockable differentials but I'll leave you to Google for that.

>why do people do it?
Yes it's mostly for mad skidz because a locked diff means one or both wheels are always sliding to a certain degree when turning the car. It's easier to start and maintain a drift with a welded diff, but it makes normal driving a pain and it eats through tires like a motherfucker.

...

>a locked differential is "basic" in that it sends power to both wheels equally
>an open differential can adjust how much torque is sent to each wheel based on whatever the manufacturer or engineer wants, usually to remove torque from a wheel that is spinning because no grip

I think you got the two mixed up.

Don't know when they switched to the new naming convention, but I learned about it when I was looking at buying an e30 or e36. Ended up buying a Rustang as I was tired of driving around looking at overpriced project cars.

BMW 328i
>3 series
>2.8 displacement
>Fuel (i)njection

325e
>3 series
>2.5
>Economy

Take a ball peen hammer and smack the surrounding area a few times first. Smack the screw while you're at it, but rather politely. You'll collapse the bleeder screw wherever you clamp on. You can prevent that and make removal a little easier by finding a metal rod (coat hanger) to shove into the valve.

holy shit i wish i knew that

looks liike that isn't the case anymore

320
330
330e
all 2.0
330i has muh glorious inline 6 >tfw no american inline6s i would gladly have it replace the v6 in the mustang as long as they can pull a good exhaust note from it

An open diff doesn't adjust anything, the wheels are free to rotate at whatever speed they want.
It's just a normal diff, you are confusing it with an LSD

forgot 2015 :x

For winding roads, driving fast and general hooning: v8 mustang or brz? I can get the mustang a lot faster.

Was buying a 2001 eclipse gt a good idea?

Can I just vaccum out my cabin air filter without buying a new one?
Also how often should I replace it

And

I have a stain on the cloth on the door panel interior, it's either like oil or dust or a mixture of the two from changing my oil
Any easy way to get it out? The cloth is beige and the stain is discolored kind of making it look wet

You can vacuum it but it will do shit.

Check your maintenance schedule for when you need to replace it

Any general interior cleaner will do the job. The ones that become powder after a few seconds work better than the wet ones, but you will need to wipe the cloth clean with a wet rag anyway afterwards, to remove all the powder

>did oilchange at home
>drop oilpan-screw(+copper crush washer) into old oil
>see quite an amount of copper sparkles while disposing the old oil

How can I check if the copper was just from the washer and not from some engine parts dissolving? The car has a bit over 80k miles on it

Does anyone know how thorough the DMV is when they check your odometer when you register your car as a classic? I have a 30 year old piece of shit car but I got for a thousand bucks because that's all it's worth (accident, minor frame damage and some other shit but never reported so not totaled/rebuilt) and I want to do a junkyard V8 swap because I hear it only cost 500 bucks and takes an afternoon and I don't want to fuck with emissions and catalytic converters and all that bullshit and registering it as a classic allows you to register with no emissions testing but you're only allowed to drive 5000 miles a year. Problem is, I regularly put 10000 to 12000 miles or more on my cars per year because I love to drive around so much. I was just going to roll the odometer back every year because as I said this thing is worth a 1000 bucks MAYBE so it would never be sold except for parts if it gets wrecked. What is the likelihood of getting caught on this?