Questions that dont deserve their own thread: the thread

I am 25 yo virgin. If I get an expensive car like Mclaren P1 will I instantly get a girl. Not saying I would love her just for fucking.

1) No.

2) Yes. That is nigger tier if you've already agreed upon a price.

Scotty said the same thing in one of his videos. Honestly 6 months seems too often, I don`t even drive half as much. Once a year seems optimal.

inb4 my engine corrodes shut and my oil turns into sludge

Become a wizard, Harry!

>tfw 6 more years.. ;_;

...what.

I`ve seen plenty of cars with yellow fogs, I`m form non-franco urope, tho.

Yes/No. Prostitutes still expect to be paid, even if you bought something expensive elsewhere.

A girl who will fuck you because you have an expensive car will expect you to buy her lots of things. She won't fuck you until after a dinner and jewelry

Whether a prostitute or a gold digger, the storys basically the same

I know I can do yellow fog lights, I was wondering about headlights

>Can I put yellow headlights on a car in the US like the French used to do?

Apparently there's nothing saying you can't, since the only thing that specifies headlight colour says they can be anything from white to yellow, though new cars must be sold with white headlights. It's not illegal but apparently it's likely you may get bothered by the police for it.

>If I've agreed to buy a car on craigslist for a price, pending an inspection and there are issues with the car, is it shitty of me to offer less because of the problems?

Nope, if the price you offer is for a car with no problems, it's only fair to offer less if the car is in lesser condition.

Is it alright to use regular stainless steel bolts from the hardware store for tightening battery terminals? I'm missing one and the other is rusted, so I want to replace them.

Yep, bolts are bolts, also stainless ones won't rust.

I'm a baby currently driving a BMW 128 stock with automatic transmission. BMW upkeep/cost is becoming too much and it would be good to get something that's AWD or front-wheel drive to survive the winter months.

Really grown to like driving. So I am interested in learning to drive manual and perhaps get an older car.

My problem is: I know zero about car maintenance and upkeep, having always just taken it to the dealer. I'm interested in learning but do not know where to start. A lot of the older cars I am interested in (ie. 2.5rs coupe) have 80-120k km on them and my understanding is that after 100k they begin to need regular maintenance/chance of issues arising increases.

How apparent is this?
Am i a fool for wanting to go down this road?
Will is end up costing me more?

Was originally going to get something 2-3 years old. But all the newer cars look like dad-sedans (RIP Impreza).

But when I'm driving home at night and see a 240sx, skyline, sti etc. I can't help but get excited and think "oh man so cool."
Maybe its just a huge fantasy that should remain a fantasy. I'm also told by family to not bother getting manual as I will quickly grow tired of shifting through 4 gears constantly as I start and stop at lights.

Jesus fuck. Is this what it's like to grow up without any sort of guidance or role model? Being so inept that you need to type out literal paragraphs on a cantonese raindance forum on whether or not it's a good idea to learn some independent skills?

When you get lost outside do you just stand still hoping an adult will eventually show up to rescue you? Sort your pathetic yuropoor life out.

I'll be serving a mission for the church in June and I won't be around for 2 years. I learn that it is unsafe to leave the handbrake on but is it safe to leave the car in gear for the whole 2 years? It's a 5 speed stick and it'll be parked on flat ground.

How do i make my car look like a shitbox without actually ruining it?

Yes.

So as an individual who knows more about cars than I do, will an older car have significantly more maintenance/cost associated with it to steer away from this financial direction?

Its really all about financials. Just generating some discussion for the thread and picking up some knowledge along the way.

What do you currently drive user?

Not the user that responded first, but my initial response got too long for 1 post, so heres a shorter version.

An old car is cheaper to maintain. The maintenance schedule is the same, as in 50k km on a new car needs the same amount of oil changes, tires, and parts as 50k km on a car with 100k km. Old parts are cheaper. Doing your own work is crazy cheaper.

People are wary of 100k km because that' s where anything that wasn't maintained properly or was poorly designed will break. It is rare that people or even dealerships maintain vehicles properly.
A car that is maintained properly is brand new for around 400k 500kl km if it's a decent make.

A 240sx is cheap and easy to maintain. A skyline and STI are not.

Get the Haynes manual for the old car you have, join a forum for people with the car you have. Veeky Forums is not really a good place for knowledge.

Hey, thanks m8.

Yeah I dont frequent Veeky Forums. I just hop over here here and then to look at people's cars.

If someone says it's annoying to drive stick in stop and go, they can't really drive stick.
Being able to operate a manual car isn't enough to make them easy or comfortable to drive.
Once you have it down it's the same amount of effort in stop and go, less effort the rest of the time, and more control all the time.

It is somewhat apparent you don't know the most about cars.
You are the opposite of foolish for wanting to go down this road. Veeky Forums just wants to make fun of you because they jealous and don't own a car.

>A lot of the older cars I am interested in (ie. 2.5rs coupe) have 80-120k km on them and my understanding is that after 100k they begin to need regular maintenance/chance of issues arising increases.

Nigger all of the old cars have 300+k kms of honest mileage. Good cars can make it to 1mil just with the right maintenance

Also, what I drive/ride are not for the financials, but I will list anyway.

Cars
2016 Golf Wagon
2001 Legacy Wagon
1973 Datsun 240z
Bikes
1974 Honda Gl100
1971 Honda CM400
2004 BMW R1200 GS

Nope

Only if you have an open intake and true ran air

Either way is safe, handbrakes failing when parked is an old ass meme.
There is no reason to be concerned about that.

Do one or the other or both, nothing changes.

Not him, but I'd be more worried about the brake freezing shut

Any common problems with these cars?
particularly with the automatic?

That's more of a concern for drum brakes tho

My car started stalling after slamming the hood once. Seems like the idle air control valve is failing.
Should I try to get it cleaned or just get a new one.

google

headgaskets

Yeah, all of my cars have drums in the rear (even my "sports" car THANKS FORD) so I worry about it.

Tires are pretty much consistent in price when changing wheel diameter.
You would just either have a larger sidewall if you down size or smaller if you up it, wider wheels obviously have more surface area on the surface and I guess that can fuck up the accuracy of your speedo, as for spacers as long you keep it somewhat liberal theyll be fine

I dont know what else you need to know but if you your buying tires you should go and ask that people that supply them rather then ask here.

Hey Veeky Forums

I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 Impreza 2.5RS with 75k miles. If I buy it, what are the chances I will get fucked by the head gasket? Also, are their any signs of head gasket problems which I can check when I go to drive it?

pic related it's the car

My car loses power uphill when I go faster than 100 km/h. It gets normal again only after I've shut off the car and started it again. What's supposedly wrong with it and will it be cheap to fix?

If I wanted to get rid of all the body rust on my Elantra, how would I do it? This one is the worst.

The cheapest and easiest way would be to just buy some cheap plastic flares.

Are these style beds custom fab or can i buy one somewhere?

they're a military trailer bed that they took off the trailer frame and plopped on a truck's frame.

I think they're M105 1.5 ton cargo trailers

damn that's cool. thanks for the info.

have you checked your car for signs of being a 30 year old ecobox?

Auto? Sounds like your tranny isn't downshifting, try blipping it to neutral or a lower gear.

No worries dude. You can pick them up on auction websites for cheap. Most of them are tan now instead of OD or camo but they make solid beds.

If I get a heavy duty pick up, I'd like to get one to replace the bed with

Does the Ford Fiesta S have the same engine as the ST? (Of course no turbo) are the internals skimped out on the S? If not I'll just get an S and put my own Turbo in there.

is it a red flag if there is no other info about a car other then miles, price, and car model? (private seller)

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What's a decent cheap 4x4 that I can get that won't kill me on insurance payments? So That I can continue to deliver pizzas in the winter.

My Ford Focus is super low to the ground and lake effect snow makes it a pain to drive in the winter.

>2004 Chebby Avalanche
>@50 mph begin to notice slight shimmy in front wheels
>@60 mph increases to a full on shake
>@70 mph eases away and smooths out
>shaking is noticably stronger when the wheel is turned

Pulls to the left, figure it is an alignment issue or a suspension part is worn out.
Thoughts?

Seasonal tyre storage.
Seeing as tyre shops charge for basically keeping your wheels stacked in a warehouse, I have enough room in my basement with relatively even temperatures year-round. Do I need a wheel stand to keep them separated or just stack them on top of each other?

Ideally you would want to store them vertically, rotating them once in a while so they don't deform too much, but even stacking them is fine

I need help, car refuses to start on it's own accord.

Car won't even turn over, all I get is an electrical sounding whine coming from what I can only assume is the starter. The dead battery indicator on the dash is on even though I've just replaced the battery. The car will pop start quite easily, so it's not an engine problem.

Starter motor?

stuck solenoid.
find the solenoid on the side of the starter motor, hit it with a hammer for a quick fix. remove, strip, clean and regrease the mechanism for a permanent fix.

ignore the battery icon. if it goes out once the engine starts, it's working as intended.