Cheap Turbos

>have n/a engine
>bolt on ebay turbo
>don't adjust anything
>engine explodes the second you hit boost

Fuck off child, no one here is gonna spoon-feed you X turbo is best cheap turbo for yer fat nip shitbox

Short answer, no. If you do want a turbo car there are three ways of going about it.

1. Buy a turbo car
This is the lowest effort but might not work if you're attached to your current car.

2. Do what said
There are other Nissan engines that are turbocharged and may swap in RELATIVELY easily. Key work relatively

3. Turbo your current engine, but do it properly
This one would probably be the most costly option. Turbos aren't a simple as installing a ricer CAI or sicc rimz yo. You will need the correct parts, help from a professional who knows how to tune the engine properly and, as I mentioned before, a pile of cash.

meant to link

Thanks, this helps the most. Buy a car that is already turboed or engine swap. Thanks.

If you can't handle posting here properly

Just fuck off

This board has become so infested with normal faggots it is disgusting the amount of people that are actually attempting to help you

>Thanks, this helps the most. Buy a car that is already turboed or engine swap. Thanks.

I replied to the wrong person. I meant to thank the other guy who was giving me advice. Have a nice day. You seem pretty angry. It is not a good idea to be angry for some guy you will never meet again online.

the cheapest way is to do it the right way. or use a supercharger instead

Thanks man. I will keep that in mind. Do it the right way or use a supercharger. I will see what I can find.

>how dare someone on this automotive board ask for automotive related advice
>how dare you pollute Veeky Forums with anything other than gtr vs vette shitposting
>REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Thanks for backing me up. You guys have been really helpful. I am a normalfag who has been lurking here for 2 years, but just recently finally took the step to buying a sports car and modifying it to suit my needs. Again, thank you.

A supercharger is going to set you back over 5K so don't get your hopes up.

What do you guys think of this cheap turbocharger?

amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF4NQTC/ref=s9_acsd_zwish_hd_bw_b13zBt_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-8&pf_rd_r=309EXJ9NCBY70ZVV90PX&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=981e8a62-fb35-577b-866a-ec23ed0b529d&pf_rd_i=15726541

you can build your own turbo. this technology isn't even that complicated.

where it gets amazing is when you bring new concepts to the table, like deliberately misfiring so the exhaust ignites and spins the turbine even faster. THAT is when you need to trust the professionals.

>this technology isn't even that complicated.

Do you even know what turbocharging a car entails? It's not as simple as putting it on and going.

yeah, a lot of shit. but it's still simple. you're compressing air, and controlling heat in its simplest iteration

I think it's missing an intercooler, a lot of pipes, shop time to install, and a $500+ dyno tune.

I wouldn't buy a turbo without inspecting the bearings.

That doesn't even mention bearings. the only instance on the page is some guy saying the bearing "spins freely" in a review. I don't even know if it's a ball bearing or not.

>you're compressing air, and controlling heat in its simplest iteration

It's more complicated than that. A naturally aspirated engine is not built to be turbocharged. There are many things that one would need to take into consideration aside from the basics of how a turbo works. You can't just squeeze more air into the cylinder and call it a day.

It's the Haggard Garage way!

Really, the actual turbo is the easiest part of the problem, just buy the best you can afford.

You'll also need more fuel so you don't run lean and kaboom, so add in upgraded pump and bigger injectors.

You'll need management, which can be complicated. Megasquirt? AFC? Piggyback controller? New ECU? Who's going to tune it and how? Lots of options here.

Exhaust will need to be changed, obviously manifolds will need to be compatible with the turbo/s you get, but also your downpipe will need to bolt up. Lots of planning and welding, or big money for a pre-built setup?

Also, you'll need oil and maybe coolant for the turbo, both feed and drain, pretty simple to plumb all this, but it's something else to think about.

Intercooler and plumbing? BOV if needed? Studs, bolts, gaskets, maintenance stuff you need to pay attention to with the extra power?
Head gasket upgrade? Head studs?

All the shit you're gonna break from having moar powah and driving like an asshole?

See what I'm saying? The turbo is only the beginning. Start googling, start reading forums for your car and see what other people have done and what works. Start saving your money.

but that's still the premise. if you want to talk about differences, we have to go down to the fuel itself.

Personally I'd turbo a diesel engine without hesitation.

What the fuck are you on about.

>Personally I'd turbo a diesel engine without hesitation.

Have fun blowing that shit up.

you're retarded

Explain.

Just get some NAWS you dummy

Dude don't listen to this fucking idiot. eBay turbos work 100% fine. Anyone who says differently is a retard who is mad they spent 2k on a turbo setup getting equal power as a $100 turbo.

BoostedBoiz have been running an eBay turbo in their 600hp h22 civic for over a year with zero issues. Also running eBay turbos on their 400hp civic 4wd wagon, on a geo, and more i'm forgetting. Don't fall for the expensive turbo meme.

diesel fuel ignites at the moment of compression, when its injected.

it can handle massive compression gasoline engines cannot. its exhaust gasses powers a turbine more efficiently than gasoline.

a 2 stroke diesel cannot function without a roots blower or compressor of some kind. they are ideal for turbo

Save and get a shop to do it. You can't go on the cheap with something this complicated

>inb4 100 autistic comments saying ecu tuning is super easy and supporting mods are a joke

NOS is a meme. that fuel shouldn't be in a piston engine.

I'd use it in a turboshaft engine and turn that baby on at high speeds to take over for the regular engine.

For the last time, it's not as easy as just putting the damn thing on. There are more things that you need to think about. Please learn more about how an engine works before calling others retarded.

>go to pick n pull
>find tarbo car
>aquire tarbo

you didn't even know how diesel fuel is ignited, retard.

>Nitrous
>Fuel

Pic relted you

N2O is used to increase the amount of air in the engine, just like other superchrging systems do, the nitrrous is not fuel, it is used to cooldown the mixture

Fucking google it cunt

Audi

The way the fuel is ignited is not the problem here. Just stop posting.

You sound really fucking stupid. You're actually getting mad that someone asked a question about cars on the board for this topic. And you're even more perturbed that people are helping him? You're the kind of autism that needs to be eradicated.

your utter retardation is the problem

a turbo is an air compressor. you literally just compress the cylinders.

that's it. game over.

radiator cooled. no meme blow off valve

>you literally just compress the cylinders

I'm done feeding the troll. kys you'reself desu senpai.

I mean, you're probably trying to just jew people into expensive turbos. let's look at the facts

1. you know nothing about cars - you didn't know anything about diesel fuel.
2. you don't know how the fuel even relates to turbo, when its exhaust is what runs the entire system
3. you think a fan and a radiator is complex technology
4. you shill against doing things for yourself and being independent.

if you're not a jew. you are easily the dumbest fuck I've witnessed today.

...

...

ayo
*waits for spool up*

Idk, he sure is a special kind of dumb.

>2 stroke diesel cannot function without

2 stroke diesels can't be naturally aspirated, dumbfuck.

>have fun blowing that shit up
but turbo diesels are a well established engine type. are you fucking retarded?

I know, lol.

I'm pretty sure he's not talking about an engine that's meant to be turbocharged.

an engine is just a pump made of metal.

And a nuclear power plant is just a steam generator.

and a neutron generator, but yeah.

>poorfag
>cheap turbo

Pick one.

Turboing your car on the cheap will only cost you more in the long run, whether it's buying the good parts later or swapping in a fresh engine because you blew the original one up.

Your call.

People on ls1tech are doing turbo setups with 200 dollar ebay turbos and their cars are lasting years with no issues.
Ebay turbos can be pretty decent.

And sometimes, those lumps of metal get pretty crazy once IMEP gets above 32 Bar. There are plenty of things that shouldn't have a turbo because they weren't meant to; 3208 CAT is a great example. You can easily bolt up the manifolds and turbo from a 3208TA to a 3208B, but that doesn't change the two pissy little rings and the itty bitty ring land. Get 30 Bar above the crown and the ring end gap closes, bites the bore and wrecks the piston.

Some things just aren't meant to have the strain of a high dynamic compression ratio.

If op is on a budget, what about a reconditioned Holset HX35 or a HX40, a reco Borg Warner or something like that. Youre getting an older design but a good build quality where some of the Asian turbos are an old design and a bit sub par.

why not a holset?

>ring end gap closes

So gap the rings more...even hacks that slap a 250 shot of nitrous on a dead stock 4 cylinder know enough to do that. Yeah, you have to pull everything apart to do it, but other than time it's a free mod that'll keep you from blowing shit up.

Agree on the Holsets though, the stock ones that come on most Dodge diesel pick up trucks can usually be found at not-quite-insane prices, and last I knew, maps showed good performance and negligible restriction for twins on engines up to about 5.0L, redline assumed at 6500 RPM I believe. That was several years ago though, back when used ones came off 12 valves. The newer ones probably flow a fair bit better by now.

Pick n pull. Look for diesel engines.

cuz it's 200 dollars...

I realize this is Veeky Forums so bs answers are a given but I'll answer this as straight forward as possible...

Never buy a used turbo unless you know every detail of its past life...

For a cheal, New turbo...crx racing is your best bet. But more important is fuel/ignition control. To do it on the cheap, look at getting megasquirt especially if you need a controller that is truly universal

>My car is a 2005 Nissan 350Z.

350z owner here. I was going to turbo mine, started to save $$$ for that. Ended up getting a supra and using 350z as a daily.

The pic is twin t04e on VQ35DE. I'd recommend going with either holset or BW turbos, they are reliable and you can rebuild them for cheap.

BTW You can utilize stock exhaust manifolds but that's not recommended.

You can also get VQ30DET, it drops right in (except the crossover pipe), you can reuse your transmission/flywheel/etc. It's very cheap, you can have easy 400whp with upgraded turbo/injectors/tune and unopened engine.

>go to junk yard
>find SAAB with B205R or B235R.
>remove turbo
>?????
you now have a mitsu td04 turbo which is a pretty good turbo. With any routine maintenance they generally last forever. The intercoolers on the 9-3SE wasn't bad either.

OP what are your plans on engine management?

fuel system?

clutch?

exhaust/intake? are you going to fabricate all that yourself?

>Dude don't listen to this fucking idiot. eBay turbos work 100% fine. Anyone who says differently is a retard who is mad they spent 2k on a turbo setup getting equal power as a $100 turbo.

Some of ebay turbos aren't balanced.

Some require disassembling and cleaning due to metal chips in CHRA oil channels.

Often it's a lottery. And you know your chances right

>People on ls1tech are doing turbo setups with 200 dollar ebay turbos and their cars are lasting years with no issues.

care to share few links on such builds?

This guys 100% right. There are so many supporting mods you need to be able to use the boost the turbo generates. Don't forget driveline stuff like clutch or diff may also need upgrading or bracing.

As for getting an actual cheap good turbo. The Borg Warner Airworks SXE range is great budget turbo (esentially same as the EFR but without the built in wastegate/recirc valve). Or alternatively getting an older second hand Garret GT or large OEM turbo.

For a 350z its quite a cramped bay, so you are really best off getting turbo kit for your model car (dont get a ebay one). This will addess the manifold and hoses and general fitment so you don't need to be the guinea pig getting shit to fit.

>all these people wanting junkyard garbage

just get an entire kit off of ebay and dont go wasting money on junkyard garbage since you will still have to buy everything else

ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1643946-ebay-gt45-turbos.html

The turbo is like half the price or even less of actually turbocharging a car so if you cant even afford one you're off to a bad start. Anyway, here are some options that minimize tha chance you need a new turbo before dyno tune is over.
>Go on craigslist/ebay and find a decent used turbo, T4/T25 are good options because wrx/evo/nissan people would usually swap them out for bigger ones which makes them cheap and abundant.
>scrapdive for a turbo that came off an tdi or needs some fixing, negotiate a dirt cheap price then spend a few bucks gettng it in decent shape and run that.
Beware that proper tuning and a decent ecu are gonna run you like a $1000, not to mention the future drivetrain upgrades, so you're better off buying an already turbocharged engine/mission combo and just dropping it in like the other user pointed out. An SR20 with like 30k miles straight outta Japan runs like $1-1.5k and you can get a 2jz with 5speed starting from $3-3.5k which is pretty much what a decent shot at turbocharging costs.

supports mods depend on planned boost/whp.

Going with like 400whp on stock/unopened VQ35DE is considered "safe limit" by m350z/forced-induction folks.

The cheapest option seems to be getting used UTEC + MAP sensor, bigger injectors, fuel pump, FPR, turbo + all required piping. HD clutch.

>Beware that proper tuning and a decent ecu are gonna run you like a $1000,

it's over $2000 actually, unless it's a piggy-back or a re-flash.

>I felt a little better with this turbo because I could actually call cxracing and get some real world and tech advice on the unit. I probably read all the threads where guys say you get what you pay for (and in a lot of cases thats true), on the other hand I probably read the same amount where these Ebay GT45's performed flawlessly for a lot of guys.

so consensus is you get what you pay for.

And 200 is apparently enough to get something good, what a wonderful world we live in.

>And 200 is apparently enough to get something good, what a wonderful world we live in.

unless you got a lemon and lost $200 for nothing but a huge paperweight. money well spent.

Chances are very high that the part will work well, and for a long time.
I'm okay with this.
Also, cute.

Why are people afraid of cheap/ebay turbos?

What's the worst that can happen?
What does happen?

Kill yourself immediately

Something sixes and breaks in the turbo. Then you either have a piece of metal flying into your intake manifold through the valves and into a piston which will not stop until it breaks or something else stops it. Or metal shavings get into the oil and that oil goes into your engine and there's increased friction and head and you destroy your cylinder walls and break other parts. Now the same thing can happen by dropping a valve cover screw down your intake so take it with a grain of salt

If you put a turbo on a NA engine will increase the compression ratio and it may cause the fuel to ignite prematurely causing all sorts of problems.

Idealy a turbo should only increase the volumetric efficancy.

Depends on where you live, you can pick up a Megasquirt ECU off ebay starting at like 400-500 bucks for a decent one. Dyno tunes in my area run cheap, since most tech inspection places have dynos and rent is dirt cheap so it's just a matter of finding a good tuner. Otherwise dyno rent+tune is gonna run you 1000+ alone, so you make a good point there.

>too poor to afford a good turbo setup
Then you are too poor to fix it when something invariably ex-fucking-plodes, you dumb cunt. End you're life.

people have no experience and think horror stories are the only truths in the world

same reason people shit on Rotas

they are ignorant

>Why are people afraid of cheap/ebay turbos?

You can getter turbo for a hundred or two over Chinese Scheiße. Like a holset, BW, or a used turbo (+ rebuild).

>What's the worst that can happen?

compressor wheel shutters and compressor housing may not contain its pieces. Excessive oil leak.

small parts can go through inter cooler right to cylinders and damage valves, pistons, cylinder walls. All that is very unlikely though. Most people replace inter cooler as it's hard to impossible to remove debris out if it.

>What does happen?

Unless it's total POS with metal shavings and stuff in CHRA oil passages it's pretty safe for engine: bushings & seals wear out quickly due to sub par quality/balance (engine oil in intake -> blue smoke & oil consumption), if you do nothing either turbo or compressor wheel will interfere with housing and either scratch it or shutter.

you need drive-by-wire to control one throttle body for VQ35DE and two throttle bodies for VQ35HR.

you need to control VVT on either two or four cams.

CAN support is kind of mandatory.

Also I haven't heard about anyone using MS as a standalone on 350z's, probably there is a reason for that.

I bought a CT26 tarbo on ebay for $180, and it lasted 20k miles before I sold the car

When it fails you can just replace the CHRA for even cheaper. I know lots of guys who go through about chinese turbo every 2.5 years or so.

>not mounting this on a tesla

youtube.com/watch?v=DVveg2sE3CA
lots of shit box turbo

This is the cheapest option if you insist on turbocharging a car you already have. However, check your compression ratio. You'll probably want lower compression pistons unless you know what you're doing or want to blow up your engine.

If the motor is open, I'd be switching slugs. End gap doesn't add material to the ring land.

you're going to want to replace your head gaskets with copper. every time.

copper will deform before it breaks. save your engine.