QTDDTOT

How the fuck am I supposed to unstick a fucking bolt when my socket extension can't even hold up to me turning the breaker bar BY HAND? It's not harbor freight shit either, I don't know what brand I'm fucking pissed. I sprayed PB Blaster all over the cunt and tried heating the area with a torch. I have an impact wrench that should be more than powerful enough but it won't budge this thing either and actually does less than the breaker and my muscles. I don't think my air compressor is up to the task of driving it.

FUCK RUST it's no goddamn wonder all car culture is situated on the west coast.

Also yes I realize that's a torque wrench and not a breaker bar, I use it as one because it's old and busted and it's way longer than my other 3/8" wrenches.

...

I said I tried torching it. I can't afford an oxy/acetylene setup so I've got one of those red single-can things.

Can you afford a MAP gas rig?

Even with careful propane you should be able to get it glowing cherry red.

For how long did you torch it?

It requires quite a bit of time to get it anywhere near as hot you'll need it to be

Need to get the yellow one and the nut should be cherry red.
If its a bolt in something, you need to get the area around the bolt hot.

You understand the process and the effects heat has on metal right?

Then after it glows red or maybe even yellow, stuff a socket on it and bang on it like you have nothing to lose.

It will make a terrible sound, but it will break loose and you'll be able to crank it off once it starts moving. OA is sex, but most things will pop off if you torch it.

Well fug. No I didn't get it glowing. Is MAP comparable temp to oxy/acetylene? I think there's a MAP torch at Lowe's for like $60

>MAP torch at Lowes for $60
go for it.

A real OA setup is more like $600 starters.

Yeah I know, even the hazard freight one is $300. Wanted it ever since I used one in welding class but I'm poorfaggin.

All I'm going to tell you is that MAP torch did the trick errytime getting things apart.

OA had me trying to run beads.

That's because you need a rosebud tip.

How much would maaco charge to sand and prime a car? I fixed some rust hole on my car and primed the door, I don't have the time to sand the entire car (well theoretically I do, I want to be on the road again in less than a month though).

Will they at least not fuck that up? I know all the maaco memes. It's not a show car per se, so can I get it primed and just dip the car no trouble?

>rosebud
How about nope

That's when you ask yourself if you'd be better off with a plasma cutter.

Nigga I'm dealing with rust right now and I'm in California. You mean fuck nature >.>

It's funny that while you're breaking your stuff saying "it's not harbor freight shit" I've been beating on my harbor freight extensions for the better part of a year to no ill effect.

How do you manage to get rust in a place with zero humidity all the time? You live on the coast and get splashed with ocean?

Get 1/2" drive then. And step up to Sidchrome. Stop being a pussy.

>look up sidchrome
>aussie subsidiary of Stanley and Black & Decker
yeah okay

Bro
> drill centre of bolt out
> run welder from bottom of hole to top
The bolt will shrink slightly as you weld the void, thus cracking the bolt and allowing you to weld a new top on

Sidchrome was great... 15 years ago.
Kincrome has more than taken that mantle.
Yep, Stanley sucked the life out of Sidchrome.

I'd love to see someone do this IRL and not completely fuck it up.

>off the shelf lubricant like PB Blaster
Has no body here used a home made brew of 50/50 Acetone and Automatic transmission fluid? Literally three times as effective as PB Blaster. Just messy as fuck.
If that fails, heat.

No. I just spray normal whatever at it.

If that doesn't work, here comes to torch.

Wow thanks that made some awesome crystals, my kids love them!

So earlier I noticed a clear liquid dripping from around the passenger fender after driving. I wiped some up and it was definitely clear and looked like water so I'm guessing it was just condensation from the A/C. Problem is I haven't used the A/C or heater at all today, could it still drip water like this even if it hasn't been used?

Torch is greater than all, but the Acetone/ATF is a damn good compromise if you don't have such a setup. Only thing is you need a well sealed oiling can, and NEVER leave it sitting upside down, as the stuff pours out of every orifice.
Try again, with the mentioned ingredients.

Did you rub it between your fingers or anything? Was it actually water? Brake fluid is clear.

Yeah I got it on my fingers and a receipt and it was crystal clear. Plus my brake fluid is kinda yellow desu. I checked all my fluids and they're at normal levels

You're either nuts or dumb.
You'd rather use a cutting torch to heat a bolt instead of a rosebud?

Then it was water.

I don't have a ton of experience with them, but doesn't a cutting torch just produce a normal flame you can use to heat things, until you pull the trigger? It's for pre-heating the metal so the cut goes easier/neater.

No, a cutting torch is very different. it takes a bit of skill to pump enough oxygen in to literally set steel on fire.

A torch you buy at the store is easymode.

>it takes a bit of skill to pump enough oxygen
1. adjust dials on your fuel and oxygen tanks to proper ratio
2. light torch
3. heat surface you want to cut
4. pull trigger and blast a hole in the steel

Shit is not hard

Hey guys

I'm thinking of buying a pop up camper that weighs 3-4k lbs and my tow vehicle will be my 07 xterra with 126k miles

Is there anything i should do to prep the car for long distance towing? A trans cooler comes to mind but that's about it

Stop making me nostalgic.

But we're talking about buying a MAP torch from the hardware store to break your nuts and bolts loose.

I agree, fuck rust
I recently had a sway bar link break (from rust) and had to cut the remainder of the broken one off the control arm. Went to unbolt the one that was still intact and it snapped and had to be cut off the bar.
Shortly after I spent about 6 hours changing the rear shocks on my truck. Both of the bolts broke, and I figured I could hammer the remainder out, right? Nope, the bolt rusted to a metal sleeve inside the shock bushing and was now too big to slide out, and a solid hour of beating on it with a 3lb sledge hammer didn't do shit. Ended up having to cut the tube of the shock off then cutting both sides of the bolt with an angle grinder to get them off. Putting the new ones on took like 15 minutes.

Also, using a torque wrench as a breaker bar is a good way to fuck up the torque calibration, just get a big ass breaker bar and use adapters

The flame on a cutting torch is very direct.
It will fuck up your work.
A rosebud spreads the heat out better, easier to manipulate and gets more area hot.
i understand using a torch to heat things up but it takes longer than a rosebud because you have to be deliberate with it.
A rosebud gets it done quicker with less chance of melting the metal from such a direct heat in a small area.

What would cause my blinkers to randomly start blinking faster than usual?

you got a terminal STD from losing your priorities and letting a girl touch your car.

Bulb going bad.

out of blinker fluid

also

in case you're fucking serious

They are designed to blink faster when there is a load imbalance, such as when a bulb is out, or you fit LED's without resistors

I will check the bulbs, but it's the same fast and inconsistent rate whether I'm signaling left or right. The only other part of the system is the flasher unit so that's what I'm thinking it is. And I didn't install LEDs.

That didn't happen

Spray that shit with something like pb blaster or liquid wrench and step up to a half inch socket. If you can get an electric impact wrench in there, the high torque ones are tits.

yo. my steering wheel feels lighter when i press my clutch and also the car pulls to the left ONLY when the clutch is pressed in. its so weird. 1997 integra gsi

clutch-in unloads the diff making it pull.
2014 SI does this when slowing down for a light.

oh thats interesting, thanks brah.

Bump pls

What can I do to a dodge neon to get it ready for rallycross?

Cursory research tells me
>2.4l head
>600$ ebay turbo
>kyb struts
>srt4 Springs

But what if anything in the way of sway bars or bushings? Anything else?

Fuck no, don't put an ebay turbo on it. You want it to be reliable for autocross. Don't fuck with the head either. You do realize there are rules in rallycross for classes right? If the car is stock, you can probably only fuck with the suspension. Read the damn rallycross rules book should be your first step.

Well dang. I figured it was just that you wanna go faster. Gotta take that head off Lmao

Brushed up on the rules, I can go MF with my 2.4l head plus turbo idea, and if I don't like it, I can transition to a street car I guess.

If I'm going to fuck with the suspension, what's good? I guess only another neon driver would know, but still

A quick of googling suggests torque steer which would be normal.

Just run street car. Don't be a turd and run in a way higher class. You're going to look like a jackass in those classes and people will mostly just WTF at you.

You probably only need to make sure your shocks and springs aren't worn to shit, and you may need to detach your swaybar or something. Go look up what neons do for rallycross.

The simple answer is you don't need to do shit to your car. You're too much of a dumbfuck to know what to do with mods or why you'd want them. Just drive it stock until you're fast for a stock neon. Then you might actually know your strut from your dick.

Oh so what do you run?

I've got an STI. Basically the only mod on mine specifically for rallycross is a skidplate. I've also got sways and upgraded struts, but they're not really for autocross.

>Large trans cooler w/ multi speed electric fan and auto thermostat. Completely bypass stock radiator trans cooler. They can fail and introduce engine coolant into the transmission.
>Upgrade to slotted front brake rotors.
>Add a leaf or helper spring in rear spring pack - or air shocks.
>Inspect suspension bushings for wear. Replace as needed.
>Engine oil cooler. Adds volume while reducing heat.
>Upgrade to heavy duty fan clutch.

Noticed a clicking that gets faster with speed coming from my wheel when I was against a wall. It's a an automatic FWD shitbox, so could it be the cv joint? I've had a few times where I'll go to accelerate and it hesitates, or it accelerates but jerks hard.

Whatever it might be, should I even bother fixing it? I got the car as a gift and I've abused the hell out of it since, but I don't know if it's really worth shelling out money for parts. Also EVERYTHING is rusted to shit in the undercarriage so I'm afraid to try to work on it because I'm a bitch with the strength of a twig.

Today I started to hear a very small squealing noise when I tap on the accelerator.

Is this serious? Should I be worried? I don't know a thing about fixing cars, I just drive them.

More like squeaking actually, if there's a difference.

It's almost as if the bottom of my shoe is wet with water, and is slipping against the plastic of the accelerator. But my shoes are completely dry, so it's not that.