/ORG/

>white letters are on the inside

...

that's how they're supposed to be
>2017 still putting the whites out

like the truck but the four doors make me want to cry

Eh i like having the extra storage. I looked at the other options, the larger cab was nicer imo.

>2017
>following trends

nah fag white letters outwards are clearly superior

don't tell me you're one of those vapeandscrape fags

outlined white letters are normie. solid raised white letters are GOAT. wish people actually made them for bigger sizes.

front two tyres have white letters out
rear two tyres have white letters in

it'll confuse people why you have two brands of tyres on your vehicle but you can just be like "nah. they're the same, senpai. what are you, blind?"

>tfw going out for the long weekend.

Wtf am I looking at

Welded dif turns memes 2 dreams

What is that? I can see a nissan badge i think but i cant tell.

who is this ugly ass ginger bandit

Go to

>air leakers
Shove them up your ass.

...

I'm not him but considering lockers. What's wrong with air?

Nice. I have the same jacket.
I bought 4 of them with the tacticool pants for like $50 at a thrift store 7 years ago.

Really fitting.

lol what a faggy picture. you having fun larping 5 minutes outside of suburbia you weird autismo nerd?

What's the deal with c-clip axles, why does everyone not like them?

A c-clip is the only thing that holds the axle shaft in place, inside the axle

If that clip breaks, this happens

Bridge looks familiar

There's no axle tube end thing?
Do they break a lot?

Will do :^)

Its in Az

I was gonna say Sunflower off 87 on way up to Payson. But I remember a one lane bridge around one of the lakes too.

This pic obviously farther up north - conifers

Nah its sheep crossing off the verde. Thats picture was is by payson

Vacuum lines are unreliable. Go E-Locker

...

Getting these bad boys put on in less than 8 hours

Babby is looking forward to his first real MT tire

Ah, I havent' been to verde yet. Payson is beautiful. Like to camp there during summer

>front bar on roof rack instead of side bars
At least you tried

what size faggot?

Get a winch too. Along with a sledgehammer and ground anchor.

Why do you care? Worried they might not fit in your butt?

>vacuum lines are unreliable
>I know, let's use fucking electronics
God damn you're stupid.

What make AK?

How's everyone been, I been spending too much time in the discord, not enough time here

Is that a hi lift jack mounted so everyone can see you offroad? Wow. Get you and your shitty Subaru out of /ORG/, you try hard.

How dare you ask us to explain out lives. I bet you'll never do anything besides work at McDonald's your whole life.

That's yellow YJ user you goober.

Arsenal slr104fr.

Fittings, lines and components always end up leaking. And then there's the problem of moisture constantly being introduced into the differential with compressed air.
You're a fucking idiot.
Electronics are far simpler than electronics over air.

hi there

Looking good man. Having any issues with that trasharoo yet?

Just bought a 2010 outback 3.6r limited. What can I do to make it a neato hooning machine in the dirt? I'm very new to the world of offroading (except with motorcycles and mountain bikes lel)

Getting shit on but what else is new?

What vehicle are you in?

Fucking sexy one at that m8. Too bad I'm a poorfag WASR 10/63 fag with practicool problems or else I'd post my rifle.

We're talking about reliable, not simple, fucktard. But you're right, electronics are simple, they're worse in every possible way than vacuum, simple.

Same desu

Yeh so my lower ball joints are fucked. Time to save up for a new set :v

Nice pic tho

Hmm been a while since ive sold my YJ but I think the hood line is a dead give away,

New /ORG/ fight: lockers.

Guess how many threads this will span. Winner gets tacofag's tacoma.

At least it's a fight that could lead to good info. Like the light fight of 17.

Trips say three.

YOU WHAT

FUCK I BETTER WIN THIS ARGUMENT THEN

>We're talking about reliable, not simple
No shit blue XJ faggot.
>strawman your way out of the point
Even the electrics on the airleakers is more complex and less reliable than that of the E-Lockers. Go well your diff m8.

>vacuum
What?

>is it the switch, the wires, the actuator, the connections
How should I know, it doesn't do anything.
VS
>is it the switch
No, it makes vacuum noise when you switch it.
>Is it the vacuum lines
Yes, it blows air between a and b when the switch works.
>is it the actuator
No, because it's not a super expensive pile of shit that's made in China, because it's an air actuator
Kys millennial scum, and take your electronic bullshit with you.

that is some low tier b8 user

>all this gay ass fighting and here i am just finding the best deals on the internet
>yfw less than $250 after mail in rebate
sportsmansoutdoorsuperstore.com/products2.cfm/ID/147435/10035/smith-and-wesson-mp9-shield-9mm-pistol-no-thumb-safety

wtf? how am i supposed to not buy this
fuck you user

>air locker
You have the switch, the compressor, the resivour, the manifold, the individual solenoid actuators, the nylon flex tubing, the quick release fittings, tapping air through diff housings, sealed o-rings susceptible to failure (and necessitate unassembling the diff when they do) and moisture being brought into the differential as another user mentioned earlier.
The e-lockers are just a switch and an actuator, of which the air locker system has anyway on top of everything else.

The only minor gripe I have with the e-locker is the ramping actuation, which gives a minor delay whith diff rotation, where the air locker is immediate so long as the locking pins mesh.

I've done "air leakers", never again.
>when you engage a diff and the compressor continuously pumps aimlessly
Fuck air.

If you're doing medium to light offroading and overlanding e lockers are perfectly fine and preferable.
If you're doing medium to high intensity crawling you should get an air locker.
elockers dont let you reverse and the engagement mechanism is stronger with air and wont wear out.

what if youre just riding around slowly dildoing your anus and stopping at mcdonalds between trails?

They do let you reverse, it just ramps off then back on which is strange when not used to it.
I think I'd almost go with a ratcheting Detroit style locker next time around.
If I went with air again, it'd be with steel solid brake lines, braided flex hose to the diffs and some sort of air dryer off the compressor, but that still doesn't solve the o-ring dilemma.
>compressor keeps pumping aimlessly
>fail to find leak with soapy water
>...
>steady stream of air from diff breather
The stuff nightmares are made of.
+1 for comp vehicles and rock crawlers though, positive and immediate engagement is handy.

Then you weld your diff.

>No time spent here.

Same here. I got a surprise promotion and my schedule/routine is now fucked up a bit. Should be good in the long run tho

YJ guy back with the craigslist hunting. found me a tow rig suburban with a 6.2 for 6k. orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/6090733814.html

I had a 1984 "heavy half ton". No problems with it. Not the most torquey. There is a Banks turbo kit available. But it's spendy. Used to get a little hot towing my XJ uphill (plus 1200lb trailer). I upgraded fan clutch, replaced radiator, and added larger trans cooler. Never overheated again. I miss that truck.

Get it, and you'll have my envy.

sup cunts. ausfag here, buying my first 4x4 soon and i think i want a landcruiser.

been shopping around and looking at a few, am i right to be looking for the diesel version?

got about 30k to spend max but i would like to spend less and spend that money on mods, what landcruiser is best?

3k suburban

we have holden here m8 not chebby

fuck

did I stutter?

I have a Detroit in the rear. For a dedicated offroader I would always go dedicated 1 way or spool in the rear. I have an eaton in the front because I don't want to deal with air, but if I did more crawling I would just get air. having an onboard compressor is really nice anyway and after that it's pretty quick to just do air lock. You'd burn out an elocker quick doing any crawling where you have to rock the weight around.

but yea the simplicity of electric cant be beat.

Is this even a question? FJ80. Especially in down undah

>got about 30k to spend max
$15-20k on the latest, cleanest, lowest mileage factory turbo diesel HDJ80.
Or the latest, cleanest, lowest mileage factory TD42ti GU Patrol.
Or the latest, cleanest, lowest mileage 3.2DiD NT-NW Pajero.
What sort of rig or body style you after? Fuel of choice? Late model or not important?

The mounted compressor is nice, I'm looking at fabbing up my own rear bar along with a guard chop which will double as an air tank. It's still the rest of the crap from the compressor onwards that's susceptible.
Still undecided obout the e-locker ramp engagement though which is why the ratchet lockers appeal, even the lunchbox style "Lokka" brand lockers.
I love the idea behind the cable Ox Lockers, although they're only available for the generic US fullsize type diffs without any real option for my choice in Nipponese 4x4s.

diesel and i don't mind if it's older, i want reliable.

In that case, I'd stick with my suggestions.

i didnt know they made cable actuated lockers, I will look at those. I only have d44s though.

Probably as long as we keep having these threads. Lockers are a very relevant discussion for offroading.

Anyway, I took my LX450 out innafield today and tried to get the rear locker to work. Front locker works fine and ripped figure 8s hoping that the rear locker will seize during one of the times I turned it off then back on again.

After 15 minutes of fighting with the steering wheel like an autist, I gave up. Anyone have luck fixing this stuff or is it time to take off the connexions and see what's wrong with it?

Those 80 series Land Cruisers have people rolling on 400k miles without an engine or transmission rebuild. Especially if you're in a dry, salt-less climate like 'straya.

Those older Patrols or 80s are pretty much golden. You can acquire, fix, and maintain two 80 series with 30k in Canada. Not sure how 'straya does its used car market or if everything is really equal. (Though, I heard New Zealand completely cucc'd themselves out of used cars and off-island imports a few years ago so RIP patrols and 80s).

I hear those international Ford Rangers are pretty gud, though. Saves you more on gas, too.

You're in luck.
ox-usa.com/78-dana-44
The only drawback with the system is you have to find a relatively straight path for the heavy-ish cable to pass through to the passenger compartment if you go for the mechanical cable system.
Otherwise you can choose air or electric engagement for the same diff centre.

>more brand shilling
youtube.com/watch?v=g_QSs1glm2c
youtube.com/watch?v=-T-ZowfMwRE

Anything wrong with an NP series Pajero?

Same boat as you mate but have half the budget, was dead set on a landcruiser but mates who have paj's have converted me to the dark side. For the same price as a 98 80 series cruiser with 400k you can get something made within 10 years with sub 250k with all the luxury shit.

Petrol or Diesel?
Nothing really wrong with the petrol V6, although the 3.8 is automatic only if that matters to you (can't remember if the 3.5 was still available in the NP).
The 3.2 diesel is brilliant when it's working, but it's the early iteration of the 4M41 which is an older style distributor injection which is still electronically controlled. If the fuel pump fails, AFAIK Freo Diesel are the only workshop in the country who rebuild them, and that's at a cost of almost $5000. There's no real way of knowing the lifespan of the pump, and I know of one example that's over 400,000km on the original pump.

If it were me, I'd try stretch the budget to a higher mileage 4th generation NS or NT Common Rail Diesel.

Diesel, got warned off petrol because of all the issues. Would stretch the budget but the loan is finalised. Didnt know that about the pumps, cheers for giving me more shit to worry about.

>cheers for giving me more shit to worry about.
No dramas mate!
Another thing to worry about if going for a diesel auto NS is keep a bit of cash up your sleeve to do a troublesome DPF delete. NT onwards didn't have the DPF and the NS manuals are also exempt. If I was to do it again, I'd happily buy the same 4th gen closer to 300k km over a 3rd gen a little over 250k. My 280,000km NT for example ended up being $13,500 ($7k+$6.5k trade-in), which at the time wasn't much of a stretch over an NM/NP diesel.

Presuming this is the outgoing 4D56 2nd gen user?