/Classic Car General/

Am I allowed to ask why my 66 302 with HEI and closed chambered heads is missing as it warms up?

>tfw 2 more years until antique tag

So I found this 3800-4200 stall torque converter that runs for $240 from a place called KMJ Performance. Looked around and saw a lot of 3500-3800 torque converters in the $220-$250 range

Hopefully its not a piece of shit, but even if it is, it'll be better than the stocker I have now

Dou you have magnetic pickups, it's not extremely likely but they could be faulty and the resistance could be too high or low when it's Cold... Might be a place to start

Check the door jambs for hornet nests.

At 1300 ohms operating temp and at 1080 about 2 mins later. I read it should read between 1500 and 500 is that when its cold?

Avoid buying something without checking the frame, floors, and other hidden or critical areas for rust. Do your research, find common issues for the drivetrain and car overall, and make sure you can get parts for it in your area.

That sound like it should be ok..... Have you tested for vacuum leaks? Sometimes the leaks stop after the engine thermally expands and can close those gaps. While it's running you can use carb cleaner around any intake mating surface, and if the quality of the idle or misfire changes it could be a vacuum leak

International got the big whip today. Now I need to think of a handle.

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nice car pham

I like the current color, purple would also be cool

Thanks senpai

Trans am best am
Selfless promotion for youtube views
youtube.com/watch?v=PWyV1eJcQC8&t=594s

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Burgundy would be nice. Personally I think you should paint it some kind of color similar to the year of it. Nothing to bright
Papa National

Have checked for vacuum leaks everywhere, rebuilt carb, and fixed any wiring wrong. Gonna replace magnetic pickup tomorrow for shits and gigs.

Your a qt desu

Worn cam lobes

Honest opinion on the oldsmobile 394. Dead weight with slim to nil performance part engine or good source of a build

Nigga the High compression ones are 335hp+. What are you doing with it?

Hey dudes, I need your help.

I got a new radiator today, and with it came an electric fan. I did the entire replacement and in the end decided to take the mechanical fan that was being spun by the engine, off of the car.

After doing so I didn't touch the carb, non of my spark plugs got removed and the distributor cap is sitting exactly like it was before I started everything. But it idles really rough and does some occasional small bangs out of the exhaust when the car is on (idling and driving).

Is it possible that by taking the mechanical fan off I upset the timing? And if so, would I advance it or retard it to fix these issues?

That sounds odd. Maybe taking off that extra load from the engine requires some adjustments to smooth it out again

Far from pretty '59 oldsmobile super 88. Keeping the rustic look but building up drivetrain

Thats exactly what I was thinking, dude.

It isn't exactly a large engine either, just a 4.1 L, and I'd imagine it's already tired.

4.1? What engine?

It's a Falcon 6, 250 CI engine.
It's the original engine the car came with (1972 Maverick), but I wasn't having issues with anything until I did the fan / radiator swap.

394s are great. The 1959s should have 315hp. Although your intake options are kind of limited if you want to hop it up. You basically only can find dual quads. What's the casting number on the heads?

Not sure casting numbers. Just got the car home. Plan of action was guttimg the interior, full clean and addressing the rotten passenger floor pan and then piling the motor and giving it a refresh and cleaning up engine bay

Not sure if this is of any help

Check on the center exhaust port when you have a chance. The heads should have a 18 cast into them. And if there is a pad with a stamped number it should read DXXXXXX

I should add that the tag on the cowl or firewall will tell you more than the door tag. I'm not sure where exactly it's going to be on a 59 though

I also have this one from on the firewall

That picture came through like shit but it says
Style 3519
Body no 301257
Paint
Trim 332

Yeah it's what I thought. So it's a Super 88 Celebrity Sedan. Its weird how different the Canadian GM tags look different from the American ones

Reset your idle mixture. It sounds like it's running rich.

Do the 2-1/2 turns trick, then adjust your throttle screw so the engine barely stays running. Should be about 350-400 RPM.

Fiddle with the idle mix screw(s) until you find the 'peak' RPM and set it slightly on the rich side of the peak.

There you go, perfectly adjusted idle mix.

Works better with a vacuum gauge though

460 or 390, The f250 I'm fixing up and taking from this guy in town has both, the 390 is currently in the truck and the 460 he has laying around. I'd have to take out the 390 to rebuild anyways.

There was a nest in my engine bay the other day.
Hand is still swollen where one got me when I opened the hood.

I'm sure it does, and it'd be less time-consuming too.
But that's a way to do it without a vacuum gauge.

Did you get lazy and use any stock ignition wiring as feeds for your electric fan?

I actually watched the entire video through.

Keep it up, faggot.

460, easy

Listening to my autistic stutters for 26 minutes
Have a cookie

>get new engine
>tear it down, take pistons out to gap rings for bewst
>already put it back together a month ago
>can't sleep at night because I'm afraid a piece of grit that I missed on the rod bearings is going to rape my motor
I shudder whenever I see a pic of a bottom end now, save me please

>parked Chevelle outside
>see a group of nigs pass by
>"FUCKIN BEAUTIFUL"
>mfw my car gets BLACKED

>getting upset someone who is a different color than you likes your car
Off yourself

you must be new here

>being so autistic you can't get over black people liking the same things you do
How does someone function like this?

I wasn't even that guy, but your new is showing. have you forgotten where you are?

I bet that fucking coon was ready to steal it too

>mfw when I live in a white state

>mfw I saved the thumbnail and not the gif

>7kb JPEG
What did you mean by this?

do one on 60's fords next maybe?

Bonus points for galaxie / custom / country squire / mercury equivalent

I had those worries too at first because my first rebuilt engine spun a bearing about a year later. Don't sweat it man, Bearings can surprisingly take alot of abuse as long as they were measured and fit properly in the first place. a microscopic piece of grit won't hurt your motor and will be washed out after a few minutes of running and be caught by your oil filter.

if you look close you can see a few pieces of lint littering the bottom end. Didn't hurt a god damn thing, I doubt a piece of dirt small enough to miss by a close inspection will hurt literally anything.

Cleveland?

Pretty much, yeah. It's a 400m.

Ha. No shit. Thought it looked familiar.
Can be a great motor, what did you do to it?

Not much at all, I put in a 265DEH comp cam kit, tmeyer pistons to bump the compression up to around 9.5:1, an edelbrock 4 barrel intake and a new matched crank kit. It's still running on the stock smog heads, but also features a single ported and polished exhaust port before i said fuck it and gave up.

It's enough to get the galaxie up to 60 in 7.75-8 seconds, which I don't think is too bad considering I just recently was under the car and finally saw the tag on the 9"... It's got highway gears; 2.75:1.

I threw a u joint on the highway about a month ago so that gave me enough of a reason to park it and fix all the other stuff wrong with it. Like the lack of overkill exhaust. I just got the 3" exhaust piping and mufflers in the mail about a week ago. Also new brakes, interior, new paint job, etc

Decent.
My pics are on a different card I can't be assed to locate.
D7 block, bored .050 over, T Meyer pistons, stock crank and rods, aussie heads pnp, scorpion roller rockers, 268DEH comp cam, hyd lifters, cloyes double roller straight up timing, edelbrock intake, 650 carb, MSD billet mechanical dist with 6AL, Doug's shorty headers through 40 series flowmasters

C6 with I think the same 2.75 gear... in a 79 Lincoln, moved the earth, 4:11 traclok was next to go in until an unfortunate event happened...now I'm just sitting on my motor.

I tried full size headers, the bastards almost fit except they rubbed the tie rods. The motor would lift a couple of inches in the rear every time I turned the wheels. I also ordered one of those summit header kits. For the past year I've been running the stock manifolds. Can't wait to hear how a 3" exhaust system sounds through these summit 2 chambers.

What unfortunate event exactly happened?

Burned in a fire.
I was running 2-1/2" through. Sounded perfect.
Headers I had to notch the crossmember on the passenger side for it to fit.
Strange how there is nothing on the passenger side, drivers has steering box, brakes, etc and the driver header worked, passenger didn't.
So much torque it actually broke the drivers side engine mount, stock, I ended up welding the two pieces together.

Mine almost did. Fire sucks a big bad dick.

Slowly piecing my old barrel of ass together. Got a 1965 Ford Custom 500 sedan, this thing was the absolute bottom of the bargain bin when it was built.
240/6 with a 3spd and overdrive unit, no A/C, no power brakes, power steering, no radio. The original 240 shit the bed back in 1972 and it had it's engine removed and it was parked back then in a shed, shed fell on it back in 2003 when I got a hold of it and it's been in the back of my mind ever since then.

Right now on the hunt for an engine an transmission, it's a Galaxie body so damn near anything under the sun can fit but it has no provision for power steering. Any suggestions?

Engine bay was all that survived. Building burned, not my car. All the plastic melted, lights, trims... almost picked up a no motor 69 mach 1 a couple months ago, that would've been its new home.
Not sure what else I would put it in.
No trucks.
I have a suicide Lincoln now with 462.
It needs a lot of work but the motor runs, I was hoping it wouldn't.

Post pictures of Lincoln

That's some nasty rust, at least it's bare metal/primer now.

I would just chunk the 462, it may be the correct motor but everything for those MEL engines is either made of diamonds or impossible to find. Also a painfully tiny selection of parts. I had a 62 Continental and after it died a horrible death I sold the engine off to a guy looking for parts.

Not the picture I wanted to post but you saw it.
After patch. I'm no expert, just using what I got.

I really don't have any of it outright like that. I bought it as a project, just getting started on it.

Oh I know. I've been eyein the diamonds on ebay.
Not only are just the intake manifolds, 3x2, ridiculous, I never looked into what carbs cost, 300 a piece is just bananas.

That's pretty good, I'd like to weld in patches for a couple rust holes smaller than that one on the right in your pic. Unfortunately I don't have a welder or a lot of time, so getting the rust removed like your first pic and using some kind of patch with bondo will have to do.

Same for me. except I've had mine for 2 and 1/2 years

Also I highly suggest joining the Suicide Slabs group on Facebook. Tons of knowledgeable and helpful people there

My first time doing rust repair like that.
Just doing what works. I only have a Lincoln SP135+, couple hundred bucks off craigslist, 110v, 90 amps, I think.
I've been more nuts and bolts.

Man, 1 year coming up, had other cars in the way, just getting started. I'd hate to have to do that to my floors. From underneath they don't look bad. The top was peeling so I started scraping and ouch.
The back window is worse but the sides and bottoms look solid. I just want to get it back together for summer soon, I'll get the underside after.

You know, they require a picture for approval, I hit join but they didn't accept me because I don't have a picture that proves I have one, lol. Maybe I will take one.
There's a guy in Cali with older parts, makes a kit for the hydroboost brakes that I'm going to use from my 79 but he hasn't gotten back to me about the adapter piece he makes.
Sent my paypal, never got an invoice.

I had to request to join twice.

For me though only thing stopping me from actually driving around in the Lincoln is a Provincial inspection. I bought it in Washington and drove it back up to Canada. Somehow while the car was parked in my driveway, a chip in the windshield appeared and of course it cracked right into the drivers line of sight. I haven't had the spare $1200-$1400 to replace the windshield and get it inspected

For real. My dumbass tried removing a good windshield. I got the bottom and up one side to the corner, *chick*, sunuvabitch.
$500 for the glass alone. smdh

With the CAD being so low and heinous shipping costs, I probably won't be getting a new windshield for a while

That is kind of harsh.
Hard to justify but impossible not to have.
One chip though, eh?

Have you screwed around with the doors and locks yet? Do you have vacuum locks?

The locks don't work cause my "vacuum relay" leaks and it's not worth removing the entire dash to get it out and fix it/get another.

Do all of your windows work?
I took apart and cleaned up a bunch of window switches, greased all of the window tracks and cleaned up the points on of the of the window relays in the trunk. got rid of the black connectors for the windows and re-wired some new stuff in for the drivers cluster.
Sometimes the back windows work, but I've got the drivers window working. Front passenger window won't work at all though and I know the motor works.

I wish parts for these cars weren't so damn expensive too

"cleaned up the points on all of the window relays in the trunk." is what I meant to say

I don't know yet. The most I've done so far, you've seen and I hooked up an electric fuel pump to a gas can to see if it will run. It runs good, no brakes, pedal is a rock. I wanted to play with metal first.

I'm not sure if I'm 100% on how they(locks/windows) function.

When it was running, they did not work. Lights worked, radio made noise.

I need to get vacuum diagram, I have wiring. I saw wiring to locks and doors when I briefly looked at it.
If you could give me a quick rundown on how the vacuum part works would be great.
I might gut the vacuum system and go full electric.

What year do you have? The CD manual I have only covers 67 with a bit added on for 68

These will be for a 67-68 Lincoln

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68.

What about ignition lock ring key? I had to put a new ignition cylinder in, it was easy to get off but I don't know where to find pic related that fits. Nobody knows for certain which it is.

No clue what that is in your picture
I have replaced ignition starter switch in mine but not the cylinder itself cause my original key mostly still works

I cannot thank you enough for those.
For sure getting rid of the vacuum locks.
The switches are electric, I'll just run some relays with electric actuators, that's just ridiculous running hoses all over like that.

It tightens up the trim ring that screws on around the left side of your pic, around the key.

CJ Pony didn't know for certain if theirs works for ours and the guy I bought the cylinder from had no idea.