Questions that don't deserve their own thread / QTDDTOT

Is buying a car/bike with a seized engine ever worth it? There's a Honda Shadow near me for $150, but I've never torn down a motor before and don't know if it's worth the time and effort.

Other urls found in this thread:

topgear.com/car-reviews/toyota/yaris/18-vvt-i-sr-5dr/road-test
youtube.com/watch?v=slBkVBR6pUQ
losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ctd/6088544548.html
rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=204221&cc=1276781&jsn=373
autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201704264815703?make=VOLKSWAGEN&maximum-mileage=80000&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&model=GOLF&sort=sponsored&postcode=nn169ss&price-to=5000&minimum-badge-engine-size=1.8&radius=1500&advertising-location=at_cars&page=4
autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201704184521833?make=FORD&maximum-mileage=80000&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&model=FIESTA&sort=sponsored&postcode=nn169ss&price-to=5000&minimum-badge-engine-size=1.8&radius=1500&advertising-location=at_cars&page=1
twitter.com/AnonBabble

>ask mechanic how much it would be for a rebuild
>Take cost
>Add cost of bike
>Compare to buying a functioning bike
>???
>Profit!

>doesn't know that motorcycles are best option for learn2wrench besides lawnmowers and weedwackers
>doesn't know if he gets it working he could easily sell it for $1500
if you have a dry place to keep it sounds like easy money

>fill with penetrating oil
>tap tap tap
>wiggle wiggle
>repeat until engine spins
might take a few hours to a few weeks worth of free time

Currently i dont have use of a garage so i cant really work on cars but i just thought maybe i could buy and old carb give it a rebuild and sell it on for profits. Its not something i have done before and i dont mind fucking up an old rusty carb by mistake as long as im learning something from it. But say if i do complete the rebuild on the carb, how the fuck would i test to see if it works? Is there anyway to do it without the car itself?

>what are carb floats?

Looking to buy a first car in the UK, insurance here is horrible for first time young drivers (a miata would cost 10k on insurance)

Looking to spend 2.5k on the car. Needs to be a warm hatch or something under 120hp.

Currently looking at Yaris SR 07 or suzuki swift sport 07.

I can't mod shitters as that would fuck insurance also, cheers Veeky Forums

get the suzuki
>topgear.com/car-reviews/toyota/yaris/18-vvt-i-sr-5dr/road-test
>... with the engine buzzing away like a hive of bees at a kazoo convention

What suzuki?

Yeah it's not a perfect car. Issue is in the UK car insurance is based on car popularity, the more popular cars have more crash statistics and tend to be a lot more expensive. Anything that is decent costs so much so it needs to be something like this.

Besides, these are all real negatives against the toyota, but as a first car a 130hp 1000ishKG car is still very good.

I'm not defending it, just saying that it isn't that bad when I have no other alternatives for a slightly fast first car.

I'm open to alternatives of course, I'll look up some suzukis.

>wants objective opinions
>defends a yaris
>pretends he's not defending it
dude what the fuck is wrong with you
it's not even comfy, go test drive one and see
get the 07 SSS
>even looks better than the yaris
and stop eyeraping me with spaces in your posts
otherwise you'll have to go back

I'm defending it as a first car for someone with no experience as a driver. The other alternatives are too high on insurance so it negates a lot of the negative points against it, when there are few alternatives. I agree it is shit when insurance isn't a factor.
I agree the suzuki is superior. Sorry I was retarded i misread Suzuki as Subaru. I do the spaces because the Veeky Forums X chatbox is small so makes the post seem larger than what it is.
I was nearing towards suzuki anyway, just wanted some alternatives if any existed. Cheers.

check the float bowl fills, then either go through the carb and check if theres any blockages in any of the tubes, or just get a hairdryer or something to blow through it to see if it draws any gas out. if there is and it doesnt leak, it should be good. If you want to have a carb you can fuck about with and not have to worry about, get an old lawnmower engine or something, they all have carbs and are piss easy to tear apart to get an idea of how shit works in an engine/carb. plus fairly difficult to break cause you pretty much cant fuck up the timing, and no firing order to worry about, and they are a flathead so cant fuck up the head at all

Anyone here have any idea how much sill repairs are? Got an old Vauxhall nova and want to get it back on the road but the sills are rotten as fuck. Heard someone say 150 a side for an old astra, does that sound about right?

MIATA
IS
ALWAYS
THE
ANSWER

nah seriously though, if a mx5 is going to be 10k are you sure these wont be? for me its about the same as some hatches with about 120bhp for the 1.8 which has about 140. If ((they)) just dont want you to have a miata, then maybe have a look at some older cars like a saxo vts, probably around 1.2k for a decent one of those, but weigh fuck all so are quick. if you want something newer the suzukis you mentioned are always being recomended, so guess that says something good about them. just go on a comparison website and fuck about with the details you can without lieing, see what makes it cheaper

Story behind pic related?


Also, how to become better mechanic? Like, what do you guys recommend information wise to get a better idea as to how stuff works and how to troubleshoot?

Yeah it's strange, the toyota, suzuki, and a renaultsport are all unpopular cars, so there isn't much information on them for insurance companies. As a result they stay sub 2K (this is with a gps tracker that monitors ur speed though).

Older cars are slightly higher to insure as people are seen as more likely to take care of their shiny new car. It sucks for me when i want to drive fast but properly (not hurr durr rpms).

I'll have a look at some older cars also, but basically the UK insurance companies are cucking me.

I'll check the VTS it looks fun

>black box
why even get a nice car if ((they)) are just going to spy on you and jew you out of every penny you have if you decide to have fun? just get something cheap and slow and wait untill you can afford insurance that doesnt spy on you so they cant take all of your money for having some fun

>Story behind pic related?

Couldn't deal.

I literally can't, anything cheap and slow is still 4 grand without it. It's a joke.

You don't have to stick 100% to speed limits, just be relatively good sometimes.

If i get something cheap now I won't have the money to get anything better as I'll be knee deep in Uni, my parents will put money towards car now hence the warm hatches. It's only a year until i'm off it.

DCRX rules say I can make minor modifications to a stock car (basically no turbo or super).

What can I do to a 99 dodge neon? I/H/E, springs and whatnot? Anyone here rock the neon in the dirt?

Are there any free or cheap tracks in and around London? Just wanna track muh car

...

Lakeside GP
youtube.com/watch?v=slBkVBR6pUQ

Brands Hatch is the nearest proper circuit. You might find some airfields that people set up cones in for cheaper

losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ctd/6088544548.html

>2000 Volkswagen Golf, $3995
>120k miles, 5-speed
>one owner
>used car dealership but if it means anything it has good reviews on Yelp

Thoughts, Veeky Forums? Never bought from a dealership before. How much might I be able to haggle them down? Might be able to buy full cash price or monthly if that's somehow better, have excellent credit

Becuase Frolo.

>tfw 6'5 and had to sit in a yaris once

>tfw 5`3

>120k on the dot
get the vin checked

Germany?
What did the hoodie mean by this?

Can anyone identify this car?

are wankel engines 4 strokes or 2 strokes?

4

not fully sure but it looks like an 1986 Honda accord

Could be a nissan gazelle

Resistance is futiled.
It is a joke about electronics.

4 stroke, but all of them happen simultaniously.

Why do you need a garage to rebuild shit, shade tree mechanic is a term for a reason. Just be smart about it and don't leave exposed cylinders during a dust storm or some dumb shit like that.

There's was some tripfag that went out to doriftu and rolled his shit and died.

I guess that explains the other path that is parallel, I like this.

Any screencaps of when Veeky Forums found out?

Indeed, that is the joke.

Would it be bad to turn on my car with the oil low to move it forward onto some ramps so I can change the oil altogether? Its below the minimum level on the dipstick.

Also, I've got a quart of 5w-30 oil for my other car that I use to top it off because it leaks, but the car I'm changing the oil on is 10w-30, would it hurt to just fill it up to minimum with the 5w-30 since I'm going to be emptying it out anyways?

Just don't rev it, you've been driving it more with that amount.

Yeah I guess you're right about me driving it with that amount. I'm still wondering where the hell the oil went between the time I dropped it off at the shop (for transmission issues) and me bringing it home.

How long between that?

First time that I have to change my battery.
Q: Are car batteries one size fits all (I drive a common late 90s car)?

No, but there are different normed siezes.

Lovely, cheers.

It was at the shop over the weekend because I brought it thursday and didnt have time to get it on friday before they closed. The check oil light wasn't on when I brought it in. The trip home was about 3 miles.

came here to say this, 86-88 Accord
>85 had no popups, 89 was redesign

no, different rear window dimensions, no side marker, no air scoop(?) in front of tail lights

First oil change, manual says 5 quarts so I put the whole 5 quart jug in after emptying and the dipstick looks like this. Did I fuck up or do I need to wait for the oil to pool back in the pan after pouring it in?

did you fill the oil filter or did all of the oil go into the oil fill cap? a lot of times the oil filter holds at least half a quart of oil depending on size and will influence pre-start up oil level.

Start it up, let it run for a bit. Turn it off and wait for like 15-20 minutes then check the level. Wait for the oil to return to the pan and all that good shit.

yeah its fine. I've done flushes on cars and only put in like 2 litres of oil into a car that takes 4+ litres as a secondary flush type deal

Full amount of oil allows it to maintain proper oil pressure during all operations, including high revving and high G corners. You can run an engine on probably 1 litre of oil if you only idle it.

I didn't prefill the filter because it's sideways. I think my mistake is checking the dipstick while the car is still up on ramps

even with vertical oil filters you can always pour a bit of oil into the filter and rotate the filter so you can at least saturate the filter media. avoiding dat dry start-up is the name of the game.

And yeah, checking the oil level when the vehicle is not level will give you weird readings. I know my car takes 5 quarts on the dot, so I stopped checking my oil level after doing an oil change.

Got it on the ground and she's running great, I'm glad the filter was in an easy spot. This other shitbox on the other hand...

Angled/sideways filters are the fucking worst.

The one on my truck barely fits between the plastic around the radiator fan and other shit, and the little oil tray thing thats under where the filter goes sucks dick, spills from both sides.

>discontinued FRAM filter

What are you talking about.

I bought a can of this stuff.

I need to clean my intake valves on my Hyundai Veloster. Its a Tarbo engine

Directions basically say to spray into the intake past the MAS. I cant really see inside well without taking a lot apart.

Can I spray it into one of the vacuum hoses? Does that feed past the MAS?

>not redlining every gear in your european cuck box.

also MFW 160$ murrican a month for 3 cars 1 of which has a 5.8 liter vee ate engine 2 of which have full coverage for 3 drivers including me at 24yo without some black box spy bullshit

Should I pay-per-ride or just get a monthly bus pass?

Depends how much you use it
Mine has a daily cap

hey guys, don't really have much experience with wrenching on cars so I thought I'd ask here

recently bought a second car from the 80s as a project to work on. Swapped out all the bushings for polys, put in new ball joints, new strut inserts / springs, etc. Went to go get it aligned and the guy there said I needed camber/caster bolts if I wanted to get it aligned to the specs I asked. He tried to get it close enough and told me to come back in a few weeks when the new springs settled with camber/caster bolts in hand and he'd realign it for free.

The question is- from what I understand looking everywhere online, if I'm buying these- rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=204221&cc=1276781&jsn=373

and they're listed as "12mm Bolts; Double Offset; Replacing All Bolts Will Increase Camber Adjustment Range To Plus Or Minus 2.5 Degrees; Slotted Only; Minus 1-3/4 To Plus 1-3/4 Degree" that means that if I'm just trying to get it to negative 1 degree camber on each wheel I'd be fine with just buying one for each strut, correct? This might seem like a fairly straightforward / stupid question to ask but I want to be double sure before I put in an order so I don't have to do it twice like an idiot.

Also, is there a difference in camber/caster bolts? When I look on rockauto there's multiple brands that all have the same advertised +- degree with wildly varying prices, but they look the same to me. Is it true that most of these bolts are made at the same factory and then just rebranded and priced up by companies like Moog? Should I shell out an extra 8$ per bolt for Moog or would it be wiser to go with a run of the mill 4-5$ bolt?

And one more question while I'm at it- why are these listed as "camber/caster" bolts? Aren't they only used to adjust camber, not caster?

What insurance, state, country?

Should I as first car?
Sorry for the language

How do I ensure that there are no spiders in my car?

it's been sitting for 2 years and there was a black widow spider nest under it for a while, until I killed (hopefully) all of them.

- - -

Pic related is the car. 07 Dodge caliber 2.0l CVT. 201k miles

Inherited from family, with $700 never paid off and still owed. lien title. never repo'd, probably won't be repo'd.

The body and interior are in fantastic shape
Suspension is shot
Needs new battery
Needs every fluid replaced
Needs every filter replaced
needs new transmission but it runs for now. the tranny overheats on hot days or when going up too many hills. I'd trust it for 30-40 miles until it enters limp mode and then you have to wait for it to cool. fine for around town.
needs new water pump but the current one still works
needs motor mounts
needs new CVT filter and gasket ( fuck these horrible jatco transmissions)
Needs to be checked for seized brakes
Probably needs new tires, but the current ones are holding air and I filled them like 4 months ago
Needs to be checked for worn belts
Filled with old gas

Motor turns over and runs just fine when jumped. No temperature issues when idle for long periods

How much of this maintenance can I skip if I only need the car to last for a few months until I get hired somewhere and can afford something better?

I'm a poorfag unemployed student with $300 in my wallet

thanks for your time.

So, my 1 year no claims bonus is just around the corner and I'm looking to sell my old shitheap and get something a bit sportier after my insurance comes down a bit. I've basically narrowed it down to a few choices.

I'm leaning heavily toward the Fiesta ST but I was wondering what kind of input Veeky Forums has to offer

cars in question:
autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201704264815703?make=VOLKSWAGEN&maximum-mileage=80000&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&model=GOLF&sort=sponsored&postcode=nn169ss&price-to=5000&minimum-badge-engine-size=1.8&radius=1500&advertising-location=at_cars&page=4

autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201704184521833?make=FORD&maximum-mileage=80000&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&model=FIESTA&sort=sponsored&postcode=nn169ss&price-to=5000&minimum-badge-engine-size=1.8&radius=1500&advertising-location=at_cars&page=1

You have to clean the dipstick off and recheck it.

How much does it cost to remove/ paint over flames on the hood of a car? Should I even?
Pic related

Is it an actual paint job? Wrap? or did they just spray over the existing clear coat?

If its just on the clear coat then see a detailing shop can literally buff it out.

See if you can get admiral multi car with a parent. Either way at your age it's best to bite the bullet and start working on no claims bonus.

If the battery can't hold a charge, you'll need a battery. You can skip on the suspension for now, just drive more carefully. Probably a change of radiator fluid would be good, dont bother with a flush. Oil change and trans oil change would be good along with filters. I kind of want to guess old coolant and the overheating transmission are related somehow. You probably can skip the air filter, just knock the dirt out, same with cabin air filter.

I wouldn't worry about the water pump until it starts making the noise of death. If it's leaking, loss of pressure could be related to overheating issue. Skip the motor mounts unless they're broken and are shaking/rattling everything in the car.

For the seized brakes, drive around the block once or twice, touch the center of the rim. If one wheel is significantly hotter than the others, I think that one may need to be rebuilt. Gives you a reason to flush the brakes.

Check the manufacture date of the tires, if they're well past 6 years old, I'd put new tires on the list of potential needs. As for the belts, if they aren't squeaking or have deep grooves on the underside of the belt, they're probably fine.

could probably get everything done yourself for 700$ including tires maybe.

>and died
we wish

so theoretically, If I made a down payment for a used car at 80% of the value of the car, would I be able to finance the rest for a very low rate?

Just kinda curious, wouldn't mind paying a couple hundred extra if it means I could drive something newer than what I got. I ask because my credit is non existent.

My brother had issues with his Golf IV's timing belt; he couldn't turn it on so he tried and tried and ended up fucking up a lot of valves.

The mechanic fixed all of that but now he says it can't rev over 3k RPM, he runs a diagnostic and there seems to be a problem with the fuel injection, but he finds nothing wrong with it.

Any of you had this problem?

Car is throwing IACV code, but car is idling at 1k with no jumps. What do?

1) Are underglow LEDs illegal in Texas?
2) are interior LEDs illegal in Texas?
3)can you legally have them on while driving?
4) are big 50 inch light bars legal in Texas?

Nobody has been able to give me a straight answer on this

How do i drive
>inb4 underage
I just turn 20, but i dont had close family member that teach me about the cars
But i come to Veeky Forums to be educated, and i still dont understand (maybe is the language)

thank you

Underglow can't be on while car is in gear

Interior LED's are fine at all times

Light bars cannot be turned on while car is in gear in town
County roads and rural routes treat light bar same as high beams, unless asshole cops who will claim that county roads are well lit enough for standard high beams, but even then it's only $80 citation

Time to get a new belt?

Another picture

I'd replace it

How old is it?

YES.

1: they are legal as long as they arent flashing. Though red is generally frowned upon cause cop color. As long as the source isnt visible, the actual glow is fine.

2: interior leds are legal. Just dont have the strips visible through the windows.

3: yes you can have them on when driving, but they do bring more attention to you.

4: yes and no. Yes a 50" is legal, but i wouldnt have it on while driving. Extremely bright and unnecessary. If you have it roof mounted, its totally illegal.

Ive been there with all of these. Been pulled over with the leds on and the cops never said a thing about them.

3* totally illegal to have on while on the road. If its bumper mounted, its treated like brights.

No idea, I've had the car for a year and its the same belt from when I got it. I'm debating whether or not its actually worth repairing it, its got quite a few things wrong with it but I got the car for free so any repair is automatically more than the car is worth.

Belts are about the cheapest/easiest thing you can replace on a car, and if it snaps it will leave you stranded.

If a car burns oil what can be done? What should be checked first?

I'm tryna get a shitbox back to reliable and road worth, could pull headgasket myself if I had to

Is it actually burning oil as in you can see it coming out the tail pipe. Or is 'burning oil' becuase you notice it losing it over time?

> could pull headgasket myself if I had to

If you can't into basic diagnostics I doubt you could do a head gasket job.

Haven't seen the car in person, just trying to gauge the work I'll do when/if I pick up this Craigslist beater

Can you put fender mirrors on pretty much any car...? I have an older (80s) vehicle with normal mirrors, but the brackets are trashed and 300 dollars plus searching to replace. I just want to safely merge.

just bought some sound deadening foam from aliexpress and installed two long strips into the front door. i put them on the outer panel instead of the panel where the speaker sticks out on. am i doing it wrong?

>doesn't want based arachnid co-pilots
Fog that bitch since you're a woman and can't into free pest control

clean it
>how to test?
squeeze the hoses going to valve, if vehicle stalls, IACV works

Should I start the engine and then apply the choke or should I apply the choke and then start the engine?

choke first then start

Best way to de-oxidize headlights?

bump