/Classic Car General/ - /CCG/

nice slickside man. looks to be a '66 which is the second year of the twin I beam.

Ask away if you have any questions, this is the same as mine.

>Ask away if you have any questions
When will yours start?

probably never.

or the next time it is sunny and I have a chance to work on it.

I mean. If the whole truck is in pretty decent shape, then it's an okay price. But I paid $750, or $549US for this 73 Dent side, only had to replace a starter and a brake line to get it road worthy,then a gas tank a bit later

I still am disappoint you sold it

What should be my first priority on a project car?

I'm at a loss for how to get started and where

I'm assuming dropping an engine in would be like any other vehicle if the era, fairly easy? What should I be looking for when I look it over?

Man, that's a deal. Trucks here are pricey unless they are totally rotted or beat to shit. I was thinking if this one is solid, maybe throw 700 out and see if he bites. I'm a friend of the family, who knows.

>What should be my first priority on a project car?
rust-proofing.

Yeah me too, I really wish I still had it. Especially now that I work at an auto shop and would be able to work on it all I like on my days off.

It was really a bonus that the truck didn't start, cause there had been quite a few people before me that looked at it, but once I met up with the dude selling it, I told him on the spot I wouldn't dicker with the price he seemed glad to sell it too me. Even helped me track down parts stolen off of it the day before I looked at it

No garage but I'll try and see if I can work fast

Weather here is notorious for being schizophrenic

look for frame rot, look for the condition of the windshield (they are about 500 a pop or so), look for rust in the fenderwells, look for rust in the bumper supports, look for rust pretty much everywhere.

basically this frame and these trucks were the exact same from 1965 to 1977 (or 79 if you count some minor changes)

you can swap pretty much any engine, any front suspension, and almost all parts interchangably between these years.

these brakes are from a '77 that I'll be swapping into my '65 (eventually).

If you don't care about the paint job right now grab some rattlecan paint and primer and stock up on rust converter,

Thanks bros. I'll post updates. I'll probably be headed that way Friday. My only 12 hours off this week. I'm not keeping my hopes up, knowing it's been sitting in that grass for God knows how long.

Man this time of year is great, people coming out of the woodwork to sell vehicles.

your starter relay is wired incorrectly. The sooner you admit this fact the sooner you can be driving your truck.

I recommend it. a slickside is really fun, but rust will kill these things
>these are the rear springs on my camper special

the starter relay is wired the exact way it has been wired for the past three years.

But I am keeping it under consideration. I have a few new cables and non rusted to shit mounting hardware to put in when I get the chance.

>the starter relay is wired the exact way it has been wired for the past three years.
If it clicks once when you turn the key the ignition circuit isn't being completed because the relay is wired wrong.
Go back and do it again.
>past three years
Stop lying, you've already posted that you changed the relay twice.

Also look for rust on the rear shock mounts. They are notorious for rusting off the frame on Chevy/Gmc and Ford trucks around those years. And floorpans and cab mounts of course, don't forget those.
Even if it has no engine or trans, a 300/302/351 with a C3 combo should be super easy to find really

Probably will have too in all honesty

Thanks for the advice

I changed the relay twice, but I put it all back together as I had gotten it, and as I had replaced it 3 years ago.

I've never been a Ford guy, but I can appreciate the older stuff. Could be a fun summer project.

Thanks. A buddy of mine is looking at getting two Lincoln Continentals, and has already offered the 360 from the parts car if he goes through with it. So that's neat.

Then you clearly did something incorrectly. If you jumper the terminals on the starter and it cranks but when you turn the key and it clicks once then the relay is the problem and the problem is how you wired it. There is no other way about it. It's wired incorrectly. You may have confused two wires or something. Start from the ground up.

No Lincoln ever came with a 360 though

here's the real issue.

I jumped the terminal, put power directly to the starter, and nothing happened. Took the starter off, brought it to oreilley's and bench tested it, and the starter fired instantly. The battery is good, the solenoid is good.

That leads the last thing I can expect, which is a bad ground. And you know what? when I pulled the ground cable off the copper was nearly black and the connection to the block was corroded to fuck. I got a new ground cable that I have to put in, I just haven't had the time to take care of it lately.

>I'm assuming dropping an engine in would be like any other vehicle if the era, fairly easy?

Well, yeah. Go look at your Intertrashional to see how hard it would be:

>4 water hoses (2 rad, 2 heater)
>1 fuel line
>2 exhaust pipes (Can be a bitch. I recommend replacing the bolts with double-nutted stainless bolts)
>1 hydraulic clutch line (maybe)

>2 wires on the starter
>2 on the alternator
>1 on the coil
>1 on the water temp sending unit
>1 on the oil sending unit
>1 on the block

>6 bolts on the bellhousing
>4 on those stupid dogbone mounts (which the Ferd won't have)

>You'll have to take the carb off to mount the lifting plate

The Ford will have the added advantage of a physically smaller and lighter engine, too.

Typo, 460 with a C6 transmission.

>460

Oh, well, then the engine will be about the same size and weight as your 345 lol

Best combo of Ford engine and trans to ever exist

That's what I was figuring, but I've still never done an engine swap so it feels a little daunting.

That's good to know, now I'm hoping he commits! Engine is in this car.

it's pretty good. I want a 428 a bit more though just because my grandpa has one in this.

my biggest fucking thing about these fords is that the fuckers had to come up with like 5 god damn bellhousing patterns. like what the fuck, why couldn't they just do what chevy did.

that is most likely a 462 or a 460.

Suicide Lincoln muh fuckkiinnng diiickkkkk

Kinda wish I had a 460 in mine instead of the 462MEL

>my biggest fucking thing about these fords is that the fuckers had to come up with like 5 god damn bellhousing patterns.
Chrysler did that too, just saying, you had a bellhousings for 4 different transmissions, small blocks, big blocks, and really big blocks.

>ywn have an all aluminum 460, cammed out the wazoo with sidepipes.

Also FYI that hood and trunk lid, if in good shape are $600-$800 each

S for 'start'
I for 'ignition coil'

and check your voltage drop between both the relay's mounting bracket and the negative terminal, and the engine block and the negative terminal.

The spice ain't flowin' somewhere.

It isn't, really. You'll probably have to fabricobble up some engine mounts and a driveshaft but there are shops for doing that kind of thing.

that's what I am saying. It is killing me that the truck isn't kicking over. I want to fucking drive it.

shit's stupid
>sbf bell pattern (thankfully a windsor hooks up with the 300 so it's a straightforward swap)
>modified/cleveland pattern
>FE pattern
>385 pattern
>later the diesel pattern
shit's ghey

Yeah, same thing I said. $300 for that as a "parts car" which my buddy says it's likely savable of you don't mind welding body panels. His target is this two door, which is $500. It was on the road 3 years ago.

We've got a great local machine shop that could help me with that I'm thinking.

Suicide slabs are worth a lot of money now. Even a parts car for $3000 is cheap

>curse the very thought of vapor lock
I've done what I can with simple mods.
The fuel lines up to the pump turned out to be steel hard-line so I didn't end up moving the pump, but I insulated the lines with aluminum foil tape and after some spirited driving the lines felt warm but I could hold on to them indefinitely, which puts their temperature below 50, maybe 55*C or so. What probably also helps is that the fuel line from the pump is no longer routed behind the alternator bracket up against the cylinder head. I used a piece of wire to guide it before insulating it as well.

I hope this is enough.

why not use a foam insulator? then it doesn't look like your fuel line is a conspiracy theorist.

Consider a hood scoop.

Here's some hot brown I spotted yesterday. I love stepside square bodies.

I want that car; it's a '66, right?

...

I think it's a 67, would have to see a rear end shot though

I think he said it was a 68.

>I want that car
>has the billy bass
>has the premier
>has the rolls royce
there's no pleasing you is there kek

Don't think it's a 68. if it was a 68 it should have Continental on the front, not the Lincoln emblem

I looked my messages over, he said they're both 68s. Doesn't mean it's correct, but that's what he told me.

Buy it
Don't let it be the one that gets away

That definitely is a 68. The 67 and 68 have different tail lights, it's easy to tell them apart from the rear

...

>not car related but...
tell me why I shouldn't save some pennies on the side and import one of these to flip down the road...

That is a very good price for suicide Lincolns, now a days.
I still can't believe that I got mine for $1400
>5 captchas wtf

where's the best place to look for deals on cars? is craigslist basically where it's at for the US?

depends on what you consider a deal and where you are located.

it's the standard for buying and selling cars though.

Yes

Craigslist, and there are some great Facebook pages now too. I found my international on Facebook. Impala came from Craigslist.

The ONLY perk of being single is that I can buy whatever car I want WHENEVER I want BECAUSE I want. Though, a '66 Lincoln Continental and a '68 Cadillac are both on my list to acquire. The last cars on my list, barring an inheritance, are as follows:
>Pre-1955 Packard
>1966 Lincoln Continental
>1968 Cadillac

So far, my current collection contains:
>1966 Imperial
>1967 Rolls Royce
>1978 Excalibur
>1979 Lincoln Mark V Bill Blass
>1981 DeLorean
>1984 Fiero Indy

It's easier to acquire cars than it is to find a potential spouse, so, if I build up my collection beforehand, I won't be buying any afterwards. Hell, if the woman is ignorant of cars; as most are, if the Cadillac, Continental, and Imperial are the same color, it might be YEARS before she realizes they're different cars.

Can't stand the wheel arches of the slicksides. Yeah, I know it was Zeitgeist back then, but still.

I don't like the '69 grille. Any other year is fine with me.

I'm married, no kids though and no potential due thanks to medical reasons. The trick with a wife is to get her sucked into the hobby. My wife is head over heels in love with my Impala, and has already decided her dream car is a 55 Ford Crown Victoria. I'm going to have to build a garage soon.

I like the later models vs the original, then again I own it so I am extremely biased so there is that.

kek. I just want a warehouse that I own to keep my shit in and enjoy, as a fortress of solitude.

Really? I love the 69 grills.
I'd have to say that the 65 grill is my favorite Slab grill though

I'm a dentisde guy. The whole body looks delicious to me. Especially the front up to those nasty 78/79 models if you know what I mean

I personally think that dentsides are the most "timeless" F-trucks before the 90s.

While I know it's not impossible, I'm not holding out for someone like that. My criteria is literally "someone I get along with and moderately attractive," but it's more difficult than I anticipated.

Anyone have a moderately attractive sister?

How old are you now?

...

For some reason, it just doesn't work for me. Something about the horizontal and vertical lines clash and it doesn't suit my taste.

28.

Dentside is best frontends

no problem. I was 26 when I met my wife but it took us until we were 31 until whe got married.

And I'm hands down no Adonis. Just dont force it, everyone will find his girl.

Just dont scare one off being too much autistic about cars. No girl, neither the air heads nor the good ones, like the feeling that they may be only 2nd place after his car

Thats what I'm talking about.

I mean take a real close look at it. Every bit fits to each other. Its like a perfect puzzle. Nothing stands out too much.

Although I wouldnt call the late dentside frontends ugly, they are significantly less harmonious in my opinion

I'm not worried about being autistic; I have enough social skill and am relatively normal; slender, but normal and not unattractive.

My only problem is the difficulty in finding a good woman who doesn't mind a homebody.

Has anyone ever installed one of these?

As I wrote: Good things will come to those who can wait.

Damn, I sure had my share in dating cunts, wasting years with wrong women. But at the end of the day everything went fine.

And to keep it on topic: My wife is such a fine woman, that she didnt even lift an eyebrow when I told her that I want to buy myself a 70s truck.

You have to keep in mind that I live in germany where everything "old+US" is expensive as hell.

Still sitting here, waiting that my 75 F100 gets finished. I bought it 3 weeks ago (only paid several hundred Euromoneys as down-payment) and now it has to get through all the wonderful corners of the german car registration system for foreign cars, has to get technical clearance and - the most important thing - has to be recognized as "automibile historical worthy"

That means the car is at least 30 years old, in good overall condition, no mean rust, no over the top modding. If it is like that, it slips off the regular german trail of "displacement and emission class"-tax and gets 192 Eurobucks yearly tax fixed (also about the same ammount for insurance which is piss-cheap)

So thats it for my old truck and my good wife. And I really hope that you'll find someone whos like mine.

If the belt breaks, you're done for in a air-cooled car. I drove an entire year with one, it broke, used the spare, then the generator bearings went to shit. That's what you get for buying Chinese.

That's really not that different from any classic. You have, maybe, a half a mile with any of my big block cars until they overheat without a belt and NO power steering to help navigate the roads.

Also, fuck the British. This is NOT a logical carburetor setup:

Yeah m8, i'm aware

Neat, I wonder how much faster the 6 cyl is.

I don't know, I only started it without the belt once, just to get it out of the driveway. I was scared I would fuck something up.

Corvair are the best car to come out of the 60's, except the 69 that was a mistake .

Its like you expect something logical from a nation that thinks positive earth in vehicle electronics is the way to go.

>I wonder how much faster the 6 cyl is.
Not much, the final drive ratio is ass.
You'll be able to zip along fairly quickly but you hit the wall at about 80 mph and you don't dare maintain that speed for long.

They're fun af to drive. Unfortunately mine's leaking oil from somewhere, with 10w-40 it's a fairly slow leak though.

>Positive Earth
Y tho

Don't be a negative nancy...

I don't expect LOGICAL, I expect moderately sane.

>be British luxury car company
>build roughly 2,000 cars a year
>completely revamp the carb design in 5 years so that literally every line and hose is no longer compatible.

So, now, I'm going to be designing my OWN fuel system for the Rolls Royce and, unlike the factory one, it will have parts with sane costs, rubber fuel hoses, and actually make SENSE!

You meant "ground"
Also, telephony uses a positive ground too.

Most American stuff before the mid-'50s was positive ground too.