Engines for an S13/14

V8s btfo

If I recall the impala ss had the 5.3 and was BARELY faster than the V6s that the impala sports today.

Is there an argument there?

You have a shitty GM by that throws timing chains, has less power than a V8, and gets the same mpg of a V8.

>pigfat

Barf. Stick with Nissan engines.

There are plenty of modern cars that make 200-300 hp while still being reliable

oh wait you mean old shitboxes?

Lol I have a belt you cuck. No chains here

rb25det

dont put a non nissan engine in there

I'm all for LS swaps in the right cars but where its cool with a 1st/2nd gen RX-7 its kinda gay on a Silvia desu...

Honestly a low PSI turbo on prepped base engine (don't forget a lil bit of head/cam work) with good EFI setup should have absolutely no problem with that if you wanna DIY rather then swapping.

240sx's aren't Slivias's

I've had 7 different 240s over the past few years and I can absolutely guarantee you that KA-T is the best route for a beginner. If you don't know exactly what you're doing, staying with the factor motor and boosting it is the much better option. 250-300 whp is super easy on a KA. CX racing manifold, tial 38mm wastegate, walbro 255 fuel pump, subaru wrx sti injectors, Garrett gt2871r (or similarly sized turbo), fmic, headgasket, ARP studs, boost controller, fuel pressure regulator, Safc2 (piggyback tune) and an air fuel ratio gauge/sensor. Would be significantly cheaper than swapping in a motor and you get to easily retain things like a/c and power steering. Every single swap car I've owned has had issues. Mostly permanent wiring gremlins but other issues will arise during the swap like clearance issues in the tranny tunnel, shifter placement, exhaust fitment and other things of that nature.

Learn from my mistakes and the mistakes of others. KA-Ts had a bad rep for a while because generally the only people who would do them were those who couldnt afford a motor swap. These people would cheap out or boost 300k mile motors. A healthy KA will have absolutely no troubles making a reliable 250-300whp and you won't have to deal with any bullshit. I suggest you do a lot of research on this topic before you pull the trigger OP. I jumped headfirst into 240s and I've been struggling ever since.

Personally, my next project is to swap a 5th gen 3SGE BEAMS into a s13 coupe when I have the money

Lightweight 200hp NA, I don't need much power since it would be a touge machine, but I want it dead reliable for daily duty

$1000 for a Beams and 6speed configured for FR, a couple of grand at most for a shell, a few grand for misc. - poorfag build

I'd have to make some custom mounts and brackets, driveshaft, etc.and have the wiring harness spliced but it wouldn't be that bad
Another obvious choice in your case is a 1JZ/2JZ but once you get a good motor, r154 trans, single turbo kit and all the other shit you're looking at $4000 for the motor+trans alone

Get a CA18DET

That sounds fucking sweet, I would a k24, but go ahead you madman

Please explain how it's cool to do on a car with 50/50 weight distribution before the swap, but not cool to do on a 240 where the LS is actually lighter than the KA?

>Lol I have a belt you cuck

Thats even worse lmao

Obviously more money, but if you are looking for light weight, why not try a sr20ve? Aluminum block vs beams iron.

LS. Otherwise have fun paying $10k for a beat to shit 2jz block.

youtube.com/watch?v=d-5yumHa4RY

what is the point of this meme

Personally, I'd go VQ, either a VQ30DE or a VQ35DE/HR
Why bother with a turbo when there's no replacement for displacement
>b-but muh turbo!
add that turbo to a higher displacement engine and stand back.

Of course, if there's no worries about keeping the engine strictly to Nissan, I'd recommend an LS variant, either a 4.8L or 5.3L Truck motor. You can get them for under $500, though you'd probably spend about the same as a VQ swap when all is said and done.
youtube.com/watch?v=3H8ItG5SK9o

Yes

But I'd rather break parts on an sr20 than an RB on a car owner in the USA.

SR20 variants are not Toyota motors. They have some issues but are generally very robust. It all depends on what you want out of it. If you want 300hp in a mild, drivable car, sr20det is fine. If you want to chase big power, look elsewhere.

rb30 turbo

My G20 used to make power up to 8300 - 8500 rpm. But I had cams

Those fuckers could scream. Didn't sound like shit like a Honda when done up as all motor

SR parts are still going to be harder to find in the US. Remember, the SR20DE was the only US variant and it wasn't used in a lot of cars, just 2.
Honestly, you're better off with either a VQ or an LS as far as parts availability and reliability.

fuck off retard

Maybe. I didn't have problems. But I haven't touched a Nissan in 9 years now. The data and support for all motor was solid then. Import DET, Ve, VET was just starting to mature. Aftermarket DE-T was more proven.

volvo modular engine, specifically B5254T4, B6284T, and B6294T

>fuck off retard
fuck off tripfaggot

Depending on the gearing, it would be more like 30+highway.

>why not try a sr20ve

because Nissan a shit desu

the stock s13 sr20 only made like 205 hp in turbo form so might as well go beams for 6 speed and dual vvti :^)

yea 2bh if i found a clean manual coupe with a healthy DOHC KA id probably go ka-t until it blows up

The car in the OP is LHD so you retards can fuck right off your wrong side of the road and into a tree

What this guy said, also asked European friend who builds Nissan performance cars for a living and he sided with RB25 swap but noted he is addicted to RB25 in S13/14 swap, i think that is a better long term goal then something for a beginner but its worth keeping in mind ofc.

First off a twin turbocharged 13B is within a few dozen kg of a LS motor and RX-7s have 48/52 weight distribution, which is and would be superior to if it was 50/50 :)

Nissan doesn't lack good options, similarly S13/S14 are more for drifting or casual enthusiast, they lack no options for good parts so a 'Brand Swap' is uncalled for.

Something like a RX-7 which has a uniquely capable racing chassi, mid(front)-mounted engine, double wishbones all around, relatively lightweight and the capacity to mount very large rubber without changing the bodywork is in itself uniquely interesting. The rotory engine it comes with is a fascinating unit but is expensive, rare, high maintenance which means you end up seeing alot of these fantastic RX-7 chassi's but without a engine to go with them. People have done the LS swaps and the cars take a very good liking to it. Local college student in my area for built a LS FC for Solo II and it was constantly fighting for FTD with a Caterham that had a much more experienced driver.

TLDR Seriously unique chassi's deserve seriously powerful engines when nothing else is practical or affordable, thats why RX-7 can make sense but its kinda silly with S13/S14 etc when there is no lack of good options that aren't prohibitively expensive or hard to access like say a peripherally ported 20b would be if you still wanted lightweight N/A power for track racing purposes/feel.

By all means swap what you want, LS swaps just aren't really needed or called for and people become big babies about brand loyalty so why bother with it on a 240

1jz

d'oh you said k24 not ka24

I'm not too familiar with hondas but idk if I'd wanna convert from transverse to longitudinal FR layout

now an F22C is an option, a motor with 6 speed sells for $6500 :~(

>Something like a RX-7 which has a uniquely capable racing chassi, mid(front)-mounted engine, double wishbones all around

Wait, you're describing an FD but you posted an FC and mention an FC later on. They are pretty different cars, both price level and mechanically.

Ok hold up, you're retarded.

13B-REW is heavier than the the 13BT of the FC, but still 200 lbs lighter than the LS1.

LS1 with T56:
610 lbs

13B-REW fully dressed with trans and accessories INCLUDING heavy USDM precat:
under 400. JDM cars are even lighter. With everything except the intercooler, the entire assembly weighs 335 lbs: rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-bay-weights-388361/ as accurate as you'll ever see it, with each part weighed separately.

The LS also sits farther forward and is wider to boot. Fuck, it's even sitting a lot higher than the 13B.

I know people who've done the swap on an FD. They recognize that it's a copout and makes the car twitch between over-and-understeer like a Corvette.

You realize the C7 has the transmission in the rear for a reason, right? And that car weighs 2-300 lbs more than an FD. People like to say the LS is the perfect engine for any RX7 and they could not be more wrong.

You'll never retain the turn-in and lateral grip of a rotary powered RX7 with a V8, even if it's aluminum. Not to mention that the REW can easily take 700 on stock internals because they're entirely forged. 500 without even touching the ports.

Now, a shitty USDM 240? Sure, go right the fuck ahead, "$500 and an afternoon" and you'll have about 280 to the wheels. Maybe less. Cool.

VH45DE

you can absolutely drop a k24 in a longitudinal position, people have dropped it in s2000s, miatas and even 240sx. You can build one for cheap, just get a crv block and a type S head

the engine is tall so you might need to get a new hood or cut yours

Sorry, I'm tired and wasn't paying attention, it's 435 but that's with the intercooler and air pump. Significant difference, especially since you can free up close to 50 lbs by going single turbo and doing an emissions delete. More if you use aluminum housings or an aftermarket intake manifold. Even more if you take out power steereing and A/C, which you would be left without on the LS.

Fuck this rice, fi nonsense. I dd an S54, but you broke ass bitches couldn't even pay insurance on the car that surrounds it. Cunts, the lot of you.

take your ritalin you autist