Realistically, would I gain 5hp?

Let's say I put the air intake outside of my car, shielded from the head of the engine like behind an open spot of the bumper, would I gain 5hp? My shitbox has only 60 at 1800lbs so 5 would be noticeable.

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No. It only sounds cool

*heat, not head

Ok, thank you.

It doesn't make as much of a difference to a 60hp shitbox as it does to a 300hp V6, because yourengine doesn't overwork itself so it doesn't need much air. On the other hand, if you use a 300hp V6 aggressively slot, then you will feel the difference, because the engine will take advantage of the air filter and breathe more air in with less effort

At best you'd get 2hp and that's pushing it if you're in some sub 200hp shitbox.

Just to clarify I'm more about the topic of if the heat difference of the air inside the stock intake casing/engine bay vs. pretty much outside would make a difference in my case.
Shouldn't probably have used a cone for the OP since I know that those are more or less a meme but I'm interested about the temperature shit.

Anyways thank you and I guess you guys are right that it would only make a difference on cars that suck a ton of air

See, that sounds about right.
Bigger engines need bigger filters right?
But it's bullshit bro science.

Bigger engines already have bigger filters and airboxes engineered to meet their air flow (and therefore power) requirement.

The component that'll have a real effect on your engines breathing characteristics is the cam profile or turbo charger if fitted.

>The component that'll have a real effect on your engines breathing characteristics is the cam profile or turbo charger if fitted.

Engines, which are basically just air pumps, are tuned from the factory to operate under a certain rate of intake/exhaust. Modifying either one of these is not going to do anything because now you need to tell your injectors to squirt more fuel so you can actually combust the additional air. otherwise it will create an inefficiency and you will actually end up losing power, not gaining it.

so putting an intake on your car will do nothing as you are restricted by the flow of the exhaust.

putting an intake or exhaust on your car AND then tuning your ECU to accommodate the new rate of flow will give you a small increase in power.

>putting an intake on your car will do nothing as you are restricted by the flow of the exhaust.
Simply not true

I bet you believe in back pressure too

Alright Einstein, tell me how additional air in your engine is going to make more power if you don't have the additional fuel and accompanying back pressure or free flowing exhaust to get it out of there?

The level of air flow increase you are talking about will not bother an oem ecu calibration. It will have the capacity built into the maf scale or ve table to cope with the small increase (if any) an after market air filter could provide.
We're not talking about adding 10 pound of boost, it's not remotely similar.
Exhaust systems are simply not as restrictive as you make them out to be and certainly. No engine will not be bothered by an extra kPa at the manifold.
Atmospheric air pressure will vary by more than that over the course of the day and engines don't shit themselves going lean all the time.

Get some perspective. Air filters at best let the manifold see atmospheric pressure, and all engines are calibrated to deal with that.

So it looks like you got BTFO so hard you decide to argue semantics instead? I am not talking about whether or not an engine "can deal with it". The question is how much horsepower increase will there be and the answer is none.

>would I gain 5hp
no

/thread

I don't know how you formed that impression. I never claimed there would be an increase in power.

Your best bet would probably be to get a lighter fly wheel.
Car won't be much faster but the engine will rev quicker and therefore make it FEEL more fun

not him

yeah you did fuckstick just fuck off

ZERO YOU FUCKING RETARD JESUS FUCKING CHRIST INTAKE+EXHAUST IS THE SAME THING AS HAVING A STOCK MOTHERFUCKING CAR


BUY A PAIR OF CARBON CERAMIC BRAKE PADS FOR THE FRONT BRAKES IF YOU WANNA BE A NEWFAG RICER AND PRETEND TO HAVE A RACEKAR

> being too dumb to understand Stoichiometric Air-fuel Ratio

kys pod filter lad

I think you should go back and read the comment again then tell us all why you're wrong.

Not unless you tune it, it just leans out.

>insight from the guy that drives his faggot boyfriend's automatic sti

kek

what I wanna know is what shitbox has 60hp

he drives a brz if I recall correctly

youtube.com/watch?v=xwNtjKT_1cA

Cold air intake dyno test on the S2k.
Keep in mind it's not a very scientific test

End results showed it lost a hp in the lowend and gained a few in the highend.

My car has 84 hp desu.

This.

>now you need to tell your injectors to squirt more fuel so you can actually combust the additional air
An adaptive ECU would easily sort this out. It's not going to make enough of a difference for it to be outside the range it can adjust for.
In saying that, it probably still won't make any noticeable difference in performance

this aftermarket pod filters usually remove horsepower.

Stock airboxes and intercoolers are usually all you ever need.

I went from 303whp to 320whp when I did mine. Long tubes behind the bumper

You're retarded.
Shitty ebay garbage loses horsepower.
An actual nonrestrictive, tested, ambient intake will not remove horsepower.
Stop parroting shit.

Just ditch the ECU and get K-Jet

The benefit of an intake is that it's possibly drawing cooler air, usually less restrictive than a stock airbox because it's non-compromising, and the filter is washable. This assuming you are buying a quality product not some ricer garbage.

It's a quality of life, packaging, and peace of mind thing.
No one puts these on their car for sick hpz except ricers.
It's just a "might as well" mod, or a mod born out of necessity.

If your "cai" is sucking air from inside the engine bay consider the noose

Came to post this

> have shit 2003 civic
> Stock airbox gets filled with dead squirrel
> Filter torn to shit
> Cheaper to get cheap Amazon Cai + filter oil than it is to replace airbox and stock filter
I guess it sounds a little nicer

The only correct answer is actually a question.
How restrictive is your stock system? A lot of people actually lose power by replacing a stock, ACTUAL CAI with a cone filter just slapped somewhere in the engine bay, sucking up warmer heat. Seeing as you mentioned shielding it, that problem is null. Realistically, if you'r enot driving a 70's-80's shitbox, your stock intake is probably A-Okay.

That's incorrect. all intakes, especially within the past 5 or 10 years are designed for good flow. Using flowbenches, not bro science as you call it. And yes, larger displacement (real or false) engines need a higher volume of air per revolution, and you'd be dead wrong if you think a stock Weber airfilter would adequately feed a big block.
You can see this by how lean it would run with the airfilter removed, as the engine doesn't need to expend additional force sucking past the small air filter.

>add turbo
>nothing happens cos injectors & back pressure
Sounds about right

What shitbox? 1989 CRX HF?

No one cares about 60+ year old irrelevant engines.

>converting to some dirt and moisture prone intake

Enjoy your capital engine failure after one drive in a thunderstorm.