Classic Car General - /CCG/

youtube.com/watch?v=Zip4QyJyD5g

That's a Ford motor. It's not a 6.6

It's a Ford 400; which IS a 6.6. 6.6 must be a magic size as GM, Ford, and Chrysler all had one.

Hey all, was playing the crew the other day, customizing my '67 Shelby GT500, and noticed several of the hoods don't look like stock options. Is this a real hood? Custom or not? I googled for a while and got nothing.

Just sent in my W72 block to the machine shop. hyped

Great song, they're a super fun band live

Fuck wrong pic....
Story behind the shaker is mine was brpke so my brother bought me one off ebay. He is such a bro. His 73 formula just got sent of to be blasted so pray to the rust gods for him.

GM had like 100 6.6s. 400, 394, 403 Olds. 401,400 Buick. 400 Pontiac. 400 Chevy.

Sam Hyde, what are you doing here?

Hi Drac

Fucking fuel pump went today. Hasn't even been a year since I put it in.

I've replaced 3 fuel pumps on my Tbird in the 5 years I've owned it. Fucking spectra premium shit.
1st one got clogged up from rust in my tank, 2nd shit out after a year and the 3rd one decided to start leaking oil like a siv.

I was thinking about buying a decent Holly pump and keeping it in the trunk with the tools to swap it out. The replacement I'm getting is free on warranty, so I'm going to drop it in obviously, but I want a better one on standby so I don't get stranded again.

Pic related, last year's breakdown. About 50 feet away from this year's. Weird ass fuel pump vortex.

Nothing? Anything? Bueller?

I bought one of those AutoZone pumps with the lifetime warranty and I keep it in my car as a spare because, for some reason, fuel pump failures are all too common these days.

I should specify. I'll also keep some zip ties, a length of fuel hose, and some wired alligator clips so that way I can just bypass the existing pump with it if I need it in an emergency.

who else
/nobrakes/ here

Got the wire cup brush for the grinder, scrubbed some rust off and sprayed the areas with rust primer. Also picked up some POR 15 for doing the floor pan later.

I've lost pressure from the master cylinder when driving my f250. Fucking scary m8

okay so just for refrence here is the stopping procedure for intersections and stop signs in general

>swerve left and right untill below about 9 mph
>get out
>grab the b pillar
>drag feet

Pretty sure I'm sunburnt as fuck, but the Binder has a new inside home. This should hold the tide until I get the rust repaired so it doesn't leak anymore. Once the cab is fixed, it will make a good home for whatever other projects I drag home.

>6.6

>not a 6.6

nigga what

Interesting news, gentleman. I may take a job up in Indiana that would have me as co-owner of a classic car restoration shop.

finished installing a new flexplate for the trans its all wrapped up and wanting for a little more atf but for now
im done for this day
wew lads
hope i dont have to do that again anytime soon or much less in the dirt and rain

>Hm, my transmission is slipping a bit
>Add line on stick is "add 1 pint," and there's fluid below, at tip of stick
>Hm, can 1 pint make that difference?
>fill 1 pint
>no difference
>oh
>empty other half of the bottle
>nothing
>Another full quart (2qt total out of 8.5 capacity) to bring to full line
>OH

Apparantly the stick level isn't affected until that last pint or so...

stcloud.craigslist.org/cto/6112378686.html

>3" exhaust
For what purpose

Dunno. Dumping in front of the tire is jank, too.

At least it doesn't look as tacky as I thought

...

How do you lot feel about electronic fuel pumps? I always figured mechanical ones are safer because they stop when the engine stops. Thoughts?

>want a classic car
>live in a country with the second highest gasoline price in the world

someone send me a gun so I can kill myself

user, but not all classic cars have to be large-displacement, V8 gas guzzlers. A lot of the really cool euro or japanese classics have engines with up to 1.4 litre displacement and good gas mileage all while being reasonably fast and just as exciting and fun to own as any other classic car.

Do you listen to era-appropriate music in your classic car, /ccg/?
I'd love to blast some city pop in some 1970's Nissan when I finally get my hands on one.
youtu.be/MX7GYBK4qMc?t=24m8s

I want my pump to run before I fire up the engine

5.7L Z28 dutchfag here. Stop being a pussy.

mechanicals have a diaphragm that can rupture and leave you stranded or leak fuel into the crank causing a lot of other issues.
electronic ones generally are pretty trouble free and provide constant pressure and volume and dont need you to prime the carb after working on it to fire up

Witnessed

I listen to classic country I'm my Ford all the time, and on a night drive it's usually almost always the doors.

If I hadn't gotten that Valiant I might have gone for this one instead. Do you think this would have been a good alternative? (Who knows, maybe I will if I save up a bit more...)

winstonsalem.craigslist.org/cto/6094581828.html

Get an oil pressure switch, so the pump doesn't run without the engine running.

Just the pressure switch is fine if you run the engine at least every week, but you might want to add a delay relay to bypass it when you first turn the key on.

Are Datsun /ccg/ approved?

Is it older than 1990?
Do you not see too many of them?

If you can answer 'yes' to those questions then they're /ccg/ approved.

Of course they are dummy. Just look at some of them and tell me they don't look like classics.

Have any of you dudes used ClifFordPerformance before?
I'm wanting to buy some new aftermarket parts for a 1972, 4.1 Falcon 6 engine but they seem to be the only option.

Pic related, as it seems to be the theme of the thread.

I thought about it for the 300 but the cost too benefit ratio isn't worth it compared to V8 swapping and just starting with a better platform

I'm just wanting to put different parts on it so it'll collectively last longer. This is still the original engine for this car and if I were to do a V8 swap I'd also have to redo the front suspension and the entire rear end.

I'm not racing it or anything either, so it wouldn't be worth the whole swap. I'm just wanting SOME more power because it's my daily.

Is the intake cracked or anything? Why change it if it works and you're not after performance.

Everything on it works just fine. I'd be swapping my intake so I could put a 2 barrel on it, but besides that it's just so I can prevent being stranded if something ends up breaking. Like I said, these current parts are 45 years old, dude.

No I feel you, I've got a 52 year old pickup with a straight six.

But preparing for failure doesn't need sense to me. An intake is a steel tube, a carburetor is a carburetor. There's not too fail between the two. If anything the carb would just need a cleaning, or you there a bunch of ice water on the engine and cracked the intake

Like if anything, maintenance, a valve adjustment, maybe a new factory camshaft and new bearings but an intake and a 2 barrel won't necessarily make it more dependable

>mfw it only took four and a half hours to pull my motor, replace the oil pan and motor mounts, then bolt it back up again
Last time it took twice as long

Thanks guys, not sure if it's carbed but I'll find out when I go to look at it

Vw?

Ethanol and China.

Yeah I know 10 percent isn't supposed to be a problem and the materials of new production pumps are supposed to be compatible but the reality seems to be otherwise. Then add in the whole Chinesium thing.

I want to buy an old pickup truck like a C/10 but my wife is telling me I need something that won't break down.

I drive about 200 miles a week. Can't I get a C/10? What arguments should I make to her?

Also, whats the worst that could happen if I buy this Ferrari?
newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/6130401460.html

Interesting. Where is this place? Most of Indy is a shithole until you get up by Carmel (Car-Mel) and Fishers fwiw. I lived down in Corpus for a while and then came back up here thinking seasons would be nice instead of Hot and Hotter but after a couple of years of ice and snow I now consider it a less than intelligent choice.

nope

Post this here again since it didn't get much time in the last thread.

Come Monday I start my new job in PA. Working as a mechanic at a shop that specializes in classic European cars, though some American stuff does come in. Place is filled with Jags, MGs, and Austin Healeys at the moment, with Triumph, Morgan, and Alfa Romeo sprinkled in. But that'll all change as jobs get done and new ones come in.

On one hand I'd love to work in a shop like this but at the same time I fear I wouldn't want to look at mine after 8 hours working on them.

I didn't believe the meme, Akry, but I sure as hell have fallen for it.
Ever since I've had a job working on other peoples vehicles, I've had no desire to work on mine on days off

I've been a mechanic now for over 8 years. If I'm working on stuff I love, as in that pic, I never get bored. But when its regular repair work on new cars I find it mundane and boring, then don't want to do things at home.

I have found that the key is finding out what you have a passion for, then doing that. I have a passion for classic British and other European cars, and now I have a job fixing them again, I'll be happy and making money.

Put one of those sick Offy triple intakes on there.

>Spending 3 grand in carburetion to make a 12 hp difference on a 4 grand car
I like your style

What are your qualifications?

Being a mechanic for 8 years helps

That was the case for me for years but the drive came back, fortunately these days I mostly do more difficult diag/driveability stuff so I don't mind mindlessly parts swapping on my own cars (though I still drive any wear item into the ground). Fabrication and paint I still have lots of motivation to do since I don't get to do as much as I want of that at work.

Dis my 87' Z
Got it May of last year.
Its an NA, 5 Sp, Slicktop. Production numbers are pretty rare for this particular body style, ~1500 between 87-89. I've gathered parts to do bushings, mounts, and coilovers next month.

...

>Being a mechanic for 8 years helps

This. Plus the fact that I've been fixing classic British cars at home since high school, went to tech school, got certified.

Can anyone here help identify what this came from?

It looks very Ford.

I'm very likely wrong though

>Rochester
Rings a bell with gm. It looks to be 30s or 40s era

This fucking faggot who had a non running truck for months due to a bad ground, you are not qualified to give advice on ANYTHING

Upvoted and recommended ;^)

Northeast Electric Company was what became Rochester Products. It's very early 30s GM

That helps, thanks guys

the shitbucket got stuck

...

Are you actually going to fix that car or just keep abusing it?

hekk off

It's not worth fixing at this point

Not a car but is a classic. Bought it for $200 with a broken clutch cable.

this basically
it's a dedicated hoon machine

That's a deal. I miss having an old clapped out Honda shitbike

Dude, I know you're just trying to give me good advice, but I'm just wanting something nice that I can take to car shows and will get more power than it does now without doing a motor swap.

If you know where I can get the parts for this just let me know, I've already checked Summit and Jeggs and this CliffordPerformance website seems like the only place that sells aftermarket parts for a 250 I6.

Offenhauser makes a triple manifold for the 250 I believe. It takes three one barrels. You could probably use your current carb and get two cheap single barrels. Offenhauser might make a finned valve cover for your engine too.

Here's the manifold I was talking about

speedwaymotors.com/Offenhauser-5970-1970-Up-Ford-170-200-250-Inline-6-Cyl-Triple-Manifold,227899.html

>blaze it

Of that's the case then go for it, friend

kys

Done ;)