Classic Car General - /CCG/

Wait, you're the Imperial guy, I need more pics of both cars. What's the plan for the RR? how's it's interior look? I love big luxo cars.

If you Check Forums ( especially US Forums) its not that expensive.
"Just Go to your local scrapyard"
I live in Germany so every Part that was Missing ( quite a few in retrospect) I had to ship in.
All around I think I payed 2500€ to 3000€ for everything.
Fresh rebuilt a833 Lakewood bellhousing Hurst shifter and everything + hydramax hydraulic clutch assembly.

Tipps

I dont know. Dont expect to be done in a weekend :)

I got my $300 280ZX running a few months back. Only took a new battery, fuel pump, injectors and an oils pressure switch. I also swapped out a lot of old fuel and coolant lines as well as remade a few hard lines that are no longer sold. I also replaced the radiator cap and thermostat, and ran a few coolant treatments to get rid of the rusty crap inside. Water pump and fan clutch seem ok

Right now I'm in the process of overhauling the braking system. I replaced the master cylinder already and I'm getting the pads, rotors and brake hoses. Hopefully the calipers are ok but they're cheap to replace if not.

After all that, I'm gonna take it in to get a new clutch and flywheel, and do the rear main seal while I'm. Ack there. Beyond that, some new tires and it should be road ready

>rust is the most expensive about a project

well i'd say bodywork. like paint, straightening it, metal obv, ect..

then maybe the engine if you just have a simple one.

i've got a ford prefect 100e from '54 and i think in total bodywork costs it will be about 5k €

while the engine is maybe just 2k €

I own many cars:

1966 Imperial
1967 Rolls Royce
1978 Excalibur
1979 Lincoln
1981 DeLorean
1984 Fiero

The Rolls Royce will be, eventually, restored and set up as a daily driver or cross-county tourer; some modern upgrades paired with a few swapped parts so that it makes financial sense to drive it.

Otherwise, I was going to make it into a Mad Max inspired post-apocalypric raider car.

I was going to grab a used gearbox and flywheel and then maybe get one of dem kits.

I don't want to spend 4 grand if i can do it cheaper with available parts but there are some parts that i might not know about.
Anyway good on you.

>right hand drive
interesting

I like it. I've been redoing it bit by bit; as such, I have very little invested.

Before:

After:

#
That's where the gas tank is

With the interior looking that decent I think it'd be nice to see it put back to shiny. Any pics/info on the 79 lincoln? Lincoln shill here

It's too nice to make into a rat rod, so it will shine once more.

The Lincoln is a 1979 Mark V Bill Blass designer edition; pictures incoming:

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but i was just out of high school and for some reasons thought i could make it better so it wouldn't break again. hence aftermarket block and everything

>Aftermarket block
Pls be aluminum

...

nope just a 8.7" deck block

Lame. Why not just start with a 351 at that point?

pot calling the kettle black.

I know I'm lame though.

And I'm starting with the easiest and cheapest way to make like 300hp

did i mention i was just out of high school?
it was ok but in retrospect making a long rod 302 was dumb

>dad comes back from trip, wants to work on Celica with me
>Rain has ruined the weekend to work on it.

He's not spending $4000 like the other guy though

I never understood the appeal of this era of Rolls Royces. They're ugly as shit and seem really basic.

What am I missing here?

not yet.

Grey Poupon

>tfw cruising along on the highway
>Cruise shuts off all of a sudden
>Try to turn it back on and a puff of smoke comes out from the ON button.

Well fuck me. I like having cruise

If I manage to somehow spend 4k building a 302 out of an explorer with new springs, carb conversion and a cam and rockers, then you have free reign to go there bb ;^)

lol i had the wires short out in my '83 vw a month ago.

why not use a 351 block

You're going to be down more than that from the countless swaps you yourself have claimed you're going to do instead of getting what you want in the first place but no don't listen to /ccg/ just like last time when it took you over two weeks to get your truck running after we told you time and again what the fucking problem was.

Because factory 351 heads aren't that good and factory GT40p heads are decent enough.

And aftermarket heads are expensive.

See even you yourself understand how ridiculous it could be with my masterful knowledge to spend 4k on a basic bolt on swap into my ford.

you can use the gt40 heads on the 351W block

>See even you yourself understand how ridiculous it could be with my masterful knowledge to spend 4k on a basic bolt on swap into my ford.
it was even more ridiculous that you were going to pull and engine and not even take it apart to make sure it never overheated.
face it, you're a rookie.
The only reason i'm telling you this is because i care about you babe and i don't want you to blow money on a 5.slow when you could just as easily get a better engine for cheaper.

I'd have to machine the bolt holes and whatnot (not that big of a deal), and then id have to get the two items separately which is more of a pain then what I want to deal with.

I'd rather buy one engine, modify it and then put it in the truck. Down the road, like a few years from now, I'll probably go the 351 based route but for now, like I said, this is the cheapest way to 300hp.

Y'all were absolutely correct about that. I'm also assuming after researching that it's a lot easier to replace valve springs on a head that is off the block than one that is still attached

On the bright side, there's switches on Ebay for Thunderbirds and Mustangs and such that are all the same ones

Those are older...less ugly.

Aren't you supposed to be trying to act less faggoty?

Git gud

They have a supremely comfortable ride, but, ultimately, it's a lot like buying a Cadillac over a Buick. A lot of it is that they're status symbols and appeal to the supremely wealthy. My reasons are simpler:
>It was cheap
>I like the look
>If nothing else, the grille and hubcaps make cool wall hangings
>I wanted a challenging project
>If I didn't , it was going to be scrapped

That's pretty fuckin cool.

>engine swap
>simple bolt on

I'm not saying I don't understand the appeal of a dirt cheap one, I just can't wrap my mind around people paying $200k for them in the 80's.

I would probably have thrown a comma on there for those who can't context ;)

m8 commas wouldn't effect what you said at all. If anything it would make less sense

Well then I feel bad for you that you can't be helped

That, I do not know. I don't even like the look of those ones.

I think the new rolls after the BMW acquisition have been stellar looking. Behemoths of vehicles

>druggie who was lucky to graduate highschool educating other people on anything other than how to blow his dealer

So it turns out it was something in the Carb causing the stumbling, i was too much of a wuss to do it myself, and had a friend with more experience look at it. The whole car is smooth now. Feels good.

Put some new shocks myself a few weeks ago and i'm very happy that it no longer rattles my fillings out every time i hit a bump.

Hows it goin' /ccg/?

>analpained numale doesn't know how to read

I finally drove around with the flaps in my footwell of the ford open, turns out that they are vents and it was a very pleasant experience.

Ha, yeah, the """air conditioning"""

It works surprisingly well desu, in the one in the picture theres also another gust of air coming from an unknown place, even when the flaps are closed.

whoops dropped trip ;)

How to not get ripped off when I'm looking to get into classic cars but never grew up around them? I might be going from < $30K a year to 200K, and aside from crypto currency, index funds, savings, and maybe real estate I have had no clue what I would even spend it all on.

The idea of classic cars is coming from "buying" my grandfather's 55 Bel Air. It's his dream car but he wants to sell it. Assuming I get the job (big assumption, but that money is making me daydream), I would just pay him what he's asking for it and he would just keep it in his possession to cruise around until he passes. I figure that's the least I could do

This got me looking at other cars, and I like the idea of driving something classic that I've bought, but knowing nothing about the labor or available parts how the fuck would I make sure I'm not getting screwed? Especially with this stuff becoming more niche and the information seems like it'll just become harder to come by. For example, say I wanted a 69 GTO with a blower and (hidden) modern sound system; who the hell do I talk to to get that done that wouldn't just try and get the most money out of me?

Finally got a decent deal on an original fan shroud so I'm hoping that'll finally fix my overheat at idle issue. Also I was curious if maybe the timing could be causing the issue too. I heard that if you switch the vacuum advance from a carb port to a manifold port that always has vacuum it might help it run a bit cooler. Would that help?

I've never seen much difference either way but I always made sure the cooling system on my cars worked. I also preferred to run ported vacuum so that when you cracked the throttle you also got 10+ degrees of timing for a nice little tip-in punch with an automatic. Still, it's something for you to try. It won't change the base or the total timing of course but you will have to lower the idle speed since it'll idle a bit faster with the increased timing at idle.

Also my radiator is a bit small so maybe if none of that helps i'll go over kill on the radiator.

That is indeed a teeny weeny radiator

It'll actually keep it pretty darn close to 180 degrees at all times on the highway but as soon as you get to a red light or traffic it starts to go up quick.

if you get the throttle cable, fuel line, and the five wires disconnected, it really is only four bolts.

Also the heater box control cables and heater pipes, almost forgot those.

Aluminum, though, which helps a lot.

Dude you need to space that fan out so it's under the shroud.

Oh, and when's the last time you replaced the water pump? If that thing ever had plain water in it the impeller blades might be rusted down to nubs and won't pump water at idle.

Overheating at low speeds or stops is lack of airflow. The biggest radiator in the world won't stop an overheat if there's no airflow to carry the heat away.

put an electric fan on there and ditch the fixed blade and youll pick up ~20hp and get proper cooling,

>lack of airflow
That "shroud" is blocking the fan from much of the radiator.

The shroud also forces air to be sucked though the radiator instead of just being pushed around the engine bay

Mmmmm. 340 Duster? Or is that a demon?

Is an Edelbrock carb ALWAYS an upgrade to a stock system?

Once I get that stock fan shroud installed I'll look at that waterpump since I haven't touched it since I bought it.
It's tempting, how much stress do the electric fans put on the electrical system?
The original owner put that shroud on and I figured it was probably doing more harm than good.

literally water pump.

Alrighty, I'll probably next day one from summit. Are those "FlowKooler" ones any good?

I feel like I've seen this too many times in this general, somebody having to BUY their grandparents car (dead yet or not). Sorry to be such a dick but what kind of shitty families do you guys have?

Not unless you had a Carter AFB or AVS stock.

Yes. Yes they are. What they do is jam as much impeller as will fit in the housing, either adding a few vanes over stock, or using long spiral vanes instead of straight.

depends on what you are looking for. do you want performance? buy Holley. do you want reliability and not have to tinker with your carb constantly? buy Edelbrock.

Because believe it or not when someone pays 10s of thousands of dollars for something they don't just give it away. Even to family. Retired people live on fixed incomes. Money doesn't come often to them

Nope, Thermoquad has way more tunability.

i think they average about 70-100w but thats also only an intermittent load

engine masters did an episode on the fans and it was pretty surprising how much power is sucked up with those fans

I saw that, Like 30 hp from a non clutch fan. pretty crazy. If I can find a kit somewhere that's got everything I need I might install one in the future.

update, My header gaskets came in the mail today and it helped reduce the ticking that was already there but they still don't seal the best. It did lower the volume of the ticking noise on the passenger side but it's still kinda there. I used a piece of fuel line as a sort of stethoscope to pinpoint the sound but it was no where near the headers. It sounded kinda like it was coming from around the distributor, possibly an echo from the loose exhaust pipe that goes into the header collector and also another ticking noise is for sure coming from the front around the waterpump so that may verify there is something wrong with it.

Are you sure it's not just noisy lifters?
Have you looked at the rotor under the cap to see if something is bent?

I pulled the valve covers off and the rockers and push rods were not loose but I'll take the cap off and see if there is anything bent under the distributor. The ticking is pretty darn quiet though but it's pretty tough to pinpoint. Also If it is a lifter what are my options?

try using thicker oil or some Lucas Oil on the next oil change, or do nothing. Noisy lifters aren't a problem unless you have a collapsed lifter and then the tick is really noticeable

How's your oil level? And what weight oil are you using?

I'll try that when I change the oil soon because it's about time. It's also been doing it for awhile since I figured it was an exhaust leak and put off getting new gaskets.
I'm using 10w30 and it's full, it even runs 40 psi at cold idle and gets to around 60 (close to the inbetween notch from 40 to 80 on the gauge) on the highway.

What engine is this? You could try some marvel mystery oil in there. It helps a bit

There's a dude in my town who's selling this exact "car" well he's been trying to sell it for a while he's asking like 2grand
But the difference is its got like a 15 inch lift and on like 40 inch tires

it's an olds 403. I'm hoping she'll last long enough until I find a Pontiac 400 to swap in. I daily drove it since last august but only to work mostly so no real long trips.

It couldn't hurt to throw in a thicker oil. I had to do that for the 300 to stop a mold tick

I'll give it a try, a few weeks ago I overheated the hell out of it on accident from traffic and I thought it was a collapsed lifter but I added more oil (was a bit low) and it made no difference. The header gaskets made it quieter at least or maybe the exhaust leak was just masking the sound.