retarded question
>having about 200 miles on my 86
>yes, boxer engine
>toyota recommends using fucking thin 0w-20 oil for mpg reason
Could I use something like 5w-30 for better wear protection, or just stop being a autist and follow the manual
Planning to use Pennzoil ultra platinum btw
Follow the manual. Thicker oil will result is even more power loss to your pathetic car.
When the manual says something do that. There is nobody who knows the car better than the engineers that designed and built it, and anyone that pretends otherwise is a fucking fool who should be used as a drift chain for those super sized dump trucks.
The engine is designed to run with 0w-20. Use what the manufacturer says.
Viscosity =/= better protection
>just get a high quality oil with good anyi wear additives
>ie. Nothing Castrol
Is OEM dealer oil good or is it better idea to provide quality oil when servicing
OEM oil will work just fine but you can probably do better if you want the best of the best.
You will get like 10~15% better in quality by paying 50% more, so it's up to you.
Will dealer refuse if I bring oil? I hear shell rotella is best oil for Subarus
Tbh I prefer to change oil myself. Not just because I'm an austist, also I don't trust the dealer
>family member bought a prius in 2010
>getting oil change in local toyota dealer all the time
>few month ago let a friend, who also a mechanic, check the car
>old oil filter has stayed there for years
btw I think you just need to call them to confirm
Thanks senpai
Rotella is shit man. Make sure you get oil that reaches the certain standards your owners manual say like Apli gli acea ilsac and others
Yeah go ahead because I bet you know more than the engineers
You know better than the engineers that made it so go ahead.
Thinner oils provide better wear protection on cold starts. 75K miles on my BRZ and still using 0w-20. Just change it often as needed depending on your driving habits, I change mine on pretty short intervals these days, every 4-5000 miles.
Thinner oil flows better and transfers heat better too.
Use 0w30 if your shit is burning lots of oil otherwise using thicker oil will just make your car even slower.
People commonly use 5w-30 instead without issue. I'll probably be switching to that for at least a while since I have a whole bunch of it that would go to waste otherwise.
The manual does imply that this is acceptable, even if 0W-20 is the default recommendation.
>imply
Does it say or not? Your warranty depends on it.
DO NOT CHANGE YOUR OIL FUCKING OIL GRADE.
If it's 0W20 using it. You switch it and it changes the whole system and affects oil pump and overall performance. 0W20 is good general performance and cold weather rated.
>Could I use something like 5w-30 for better wear protection
>5w-30
>better wear protection than 0w-20
No, you fucking idiot. Your sub-layman understanding of oil is so poor that you should stick to having the dealer change your oil.
>or just stop being a autist and follow the manual
You're below autist levels here. Autists obsess over things and read about them, becoming somewhat educated, you're just taking a wild-ass guess and labeling it a fact.
Last I checked it was implicitly kosher. The manual is really not well-written, omits lots of important details, and seems to be designed around the concept that the owner is a total idiot about cars. I'll be out of warranty soon enough anyway.
In general what the manufacturer says is fine. BUT it wasnt always this way....
I have a 5.0 explorer, and right now ford says 5w-20 is the "recommended" oil.... in a 5.0.... when it was sold in 2000 I t was 5w-30 and before that 10w30 I believe. They kept reducing it in the name of muh "MPGs". This isnt always best for the longevity of the engine.
If you use oil that thin in a higher mileage 5.0 you are just asking for a worn out camshaft and lifter tick....
Always do your research.
Do they not have a oil grade range in the manuals anymore?
It just gives 1 grade? Pic related on how it used to be
Not like that it doesn't. It has one bar showing 0w-20, a couple of pages of baby talk about what that means, a concluding statement that it's best for cold starting an economy, a mandate that you can only use Subaru oil, and then a disclaimer that you can use a similar oil if officially approved oil is not available.
The owner's manual is really terrible.
One of my favorite parts of the manual is about the dial that adjusts headlight leveling. There are three settings, 0, 1, and 2. And it has this ridiculously complicated table about how many people are in the car, if they are children or adults, how to prioritize which seats they are in, and I think even a tradeoff vs. how much stuff you have in the trunk.
It was one of the most pointlessly autistic things I'd seen in a while, and that's after having read through about half the manual in all its painful autism.
That table is an example of what engineers were allowed to specify prior to mpg mandates. There is no 0 weight even on the table.
that's terrible
Since it's summer (assuming for your location), no issue if you went 5W-20.
5W-30 is fine, especially if you're in a really hot area. But you might not see extra benefits vs 5W-20 unless you really drive your car hard and the temps get up there
Well this is a pic from a late 90's lexus V6 i think, so 0 grade didn't even exist commercially.
But having ONLY 1 grade is unfortunate. Charts were probably too hard for alot of consumers
No, you fucking idiot, they aren't sacrificing engine longevity for muh mpgs. Oil has change A FUCKING LOT in the past 20 FUCKING YEARS, and so have engines.
Contrary to what you knownothing conspiritards in this thread think, engines are designed with a specific type and viscosity range of oil in mind, this isn't 1965!
If it's in warranty, use what they say.
FWIW- some of the new toyota engines have bearing clearances under .001. That's under a thousandth. 0w20 is basically required.
Oil has changed, they've gotten better.
Viscosity ratings haven't.
We're not saying use an old AH level oil or some crap.
If 0W-20 is recommended, there is nothing wrong with 5W-20 in the summer.
Bearing clearances have improved in new engines, so you can run 20 weight at temp without much ill effect.
But there are scenarios where this changes (higher temp, track usage, etc)
subaru.jp
>LEVORG, SUBARU BRZ
>Those who are looking for light and smooth use feeling and fuel saving performance in addition to high engine protection performance
Is there anybody speaks jap can actual translate the whole thing? Look like Subaru JP also recommend using 0w-30 on brz because they don't give a fuck about mpg and shit, not like CAFE with American market.
this is for 0w-20
>Who care about fuel economy
>Who care about exhaust gas
>High awareness of the environment
subaru.jp
literally 5W-40 recommended for ALL engines for people who drive hard. kek
there is a 10W-50, but it says not to use on the FA/FB engines
subaru.jp
BTFO by
Thicker oil doesn't mean better protection
Run 0w20 synthetic
the only time you want to go to a thicker oil is if you're having oil temp issues, such as on a race track where you could quickly heat soak the engine after a few hard laps on a slightly modified engine
>0 grade didn't even exist commercially.
Why produce a product with no market?
toyota.com.au
>aussie GT86 manual
>page 381
Reminder that oem oil weights are based on a minimum mpg rating.
A heavier oil will provide better protection, especially in hot weather when the oil thins out.
I guess you guys like premature main bearing failure.
I work at jiffy lube (never go here if you do, by the way) and to be fair those filter housings are bitches to remove, sometimes some fucktard torques them to a million ft-lbs and you can't remove them.
Modern 5.0 V8 and 3.7 v6 also uses 5w20, theres nothing wrong with it.
>they aren't sacrificing engine longevity for muh mpgs
Except mazda did with the rx8, they recommended 5w20 and it led to main bearings being eaten to shit on low mileage engines.
Everyone uses 10w30 - 40 without issue.
>mfw when turbo engines recommend 0W-20 oil
> Have 2004 STi
> No where does it say to use T6
> Use T6 every time
No problems.png.exe
> Have 2014 Jetta
> Just put whatever oil in it is cheapest and easiest to grab at walmart
> 14k before oil change
> 12k before next, didn't change filter at 7k miles now
Still running strong. Keep the big oil myths going bois.
I had a friend who skewered a screwdriver through one once to try to lever it around and of course it just tore the thing up until there wasn't much left to grab on to and he asked if I could help.
Holy fuck. Made me glad I found Veeky Forums to get that bitch off.
Ive actually had to do that before and it works if you do it right...obviously your friend is shit tier just like most ppl on this board.
Bruh
T6 or nothing
>oil weights are based on a minimum mpg rating
Right. The manufacturer has a huge incentive to specify the thinnest oil now available, so long as the engine lasts for the warranty period.
eh, I don't blame him for giving it a shot. I was living with a bunch of friends at the time, and it was a good chance for them to borrow tools and try to learn basic maintenance. Kind of like if you don't have somebody to coach you on how to drive standard you might be too afraid to try.
Motorcraft or nothing
Get an oil analysis done when you change your oil and switch to 0-30. Get an analysis at next change.
This will likely give you an answer.
I'd be interested mostly in how much the oil has broken down between changes
Because we have higher temperatures here, thicker oil is better for our weather. Each countries manual is different.
>There is nobody who knows the car better than the engineers that designed and built it
they probably designed and built it to last exactly to the end of your warranty period
Dude
Best thing since sliced bread
'thin' when cold is not bad. most of the wear in the engine is from when it starts. thicker oil when cold (so 10w, 5w) isn't protecting the engine as well as a 0w. 0w oils are just generally better, because all of them are at least semi-synthetic.
From what I wemember
without an oil pressure gauge, how would you track any differences?
>Except mazda
quelle surprise
Go with 0w30 fully synth if you are planning to track the car regularly, and why wouldn't you.
Just remember Pennzoil tends to be thinner than most brands, there Platinum 5W30 is closer to a conventional 0W25
Why nothing Castrol
Pennzoil ultra platinum anti wear additives:
zinc = 806 ppm
phos = 812 ppm
moly = 66 ppm
Castrol Edge
zinc = 1042 ppm 27% more
phos = 857 ppm 5.5% more
moly = 100 ppm 51% more
titanium = 49 ppm Not in Pennzoil
Also when you look at the brake down pressure of oils by weight. (tested at 110c)
5w20 99,983 psi
5W30 95,717 psi
The lower viscosity oil has a 4% higher surface pressure before the film brakes down and metal to metal contact occurs. The idea that thinner oils provide less protection went out with pushrod engines and leaf spring suspension
user I'm dumb but what did you mean by that? The Castrol Edge contains more metal ingredients in it, is it good or bad?
I prefer this kind, works with more than just one size oil filter
No.
They do all the endurance testing and component validation with that oil too.
They've done all the work for you. How could you even begin to think that you know better than an entire engineering department of an international automotive company?
t. oem engine development engineer
They are added as anti wear ingredients.
Except the part where identical engines sold in different regions come with different viscosity recommendations, and not based only on climate. Based on fuel efficiency.
I'm not sure if any engine even today is actually designed to run on 0w20 in a moderate climate.
Pic related, so glad these engineering departments told me to run anywhere from 30 to 50. Must be all that precision engineering and extensive experience and education that brought them to that conclusion. Without them how would I have ever guess to put any of the most common oils available into the engine?
Damn "high performance" german engineering and their exhaustive testing to find out what oil to use.
>and not based only on climate. Based on fuel efficiency.
[citation needed]
>Modern Japanese shitboxes call for 0w20 in the continental US
>Modern Japnese shitboxes call for 0w30/5w30 in Japan
So you "think" they don't care about fuel efficiency in japan where it is significantly more expensive (about 65% more) than the US? not the brightest hid in the box are you.
It's not about the customers fuel efficiency demands.
The regulatory requirements are tougher in Japan than the US as well. Retard.
What makes you think that has anything to do with fuel efficiency?
VW recommends 5w-30 for my 07 GTI but I am using 5w-40 since being tuned.
Put decent oil in the Jetta if it's a turbo. If it's the 2.0l na, then keep doin whatcha doin
More viscous oils are not necessarily better for your car. Ow20 is thinner at 100 degrees F than ow30 is.
0w-20 is thinner than 0w-30 under all circumstances you mong
Not at -40
>Viscosity ratings haven't.
Nobody said that they had fucktard
I remember some article that indicated that for a particular motor vehicle that using higher than the rated viscosity would result in inadequate flow seeing as the oil wasn't able to properly flow through the pathways.
Automotive engineers are claiming 1% increase in fuel economy from switching from 15w-40 to 10w-30, and another 1.5% with 0w-20. For desperate vehicle manufacturers (desperate enough to sink billions into aluminum truck bodies for example), the $$ savings from recommending thin oils really adds up fast. For those driving an automatic, they are trying to do it here too. Don't fall for the low viscosity ATF scam.
>Car designed for 0W-20
>Could I use something like 5w-30 for better wear protection
Don't bring in early 1980's (and earlier) logic. In the ancient days, tolerances were loose because both materials science and car ICE engineering was an ongoing process. Thick oils leaked past seals less back then. Large gaps benefitted from a thicker oil to reduce slapping. Enough has been done to tighten the tolerances so that thinner oils can be used despite their ability to leak more.
Today's engines are tight enough that oil protects by nature of its immediate incompressibility to keep metal surfaces apart. With smaller tighter tolerances and tiny spaces, a more liquid oil is used. The other purpose of the thinner oil is to also carry away heat. So that's why you have 20 instead of 30 weight oil. So use that 0W20 oil instead of the 5W30.
>The Castrol Edge contains more metal ingredients in it, is it good or bad?
>but what did you mean by that?
Not that guy. Most people over-simplify things by using just one word "wear". Engineers would tell you that there are multiple sources of "wear" such as physical wear from abrasion, leaching, and galvanic.
Having metal pre-dissolved into the oil was the classic way to reduce the amount of metal leached off other engine surfaces. Of course, this doesn't improve lubrication, but it does reduce leaching. So the amount has to be tweaked carefully.
If you have used a pencil tip soldering iron, then you have experienced metal leaching from the tip of the soldering iron.