DIY Repair

I mean it stopped leaking on its own and i cant imagine how a pressurized hydraulic line that gets very regular use would just stop leaking on its own.
I plan on replacing the line but I cant wrap my head around how it happened.

Oh i see.

Did you drive over fresh pavement? seems like road grime that solidified.

I'm sure I have since its my daily. I've just been keeping an eye on the fluid and line every couple of days for the past 2 months or so. It hasn't leaked in weeks and I've cleaned off the line since then

going to try to tap the steel, if i can get inner diameter thin enough i can pick the threads out

Next time you heat that shit up with a blowtorch and remove it with one of these wrenches that has a much thicker head and also has a lot more contact area, specially made for doing brake lines/fuel lines and whatnot. Its a damned good tool to have in your set

Corroded fittings are the actual work of the fucking devil.

on a flare that corroded i would give one of those a 20% chance of working.

This. Flarenut wrench is youre friend.
Also you could have applied some light heat with a blow torch, sprayed wd40 on the fitting . When you have the flare nut wrench on there you can lightly tap the coupler fitting with a hammer while applying pressure on the flare nut wrench. Also try loosening then tightening in small increments back and forth slowly.
All those technics work best when used together.

You'd be surprised what you can do with a tool that fits like a glove, and a little bit of heat

I did the rears on a Saab last week, and by this photo I think you have a certain idea of how corroded that shit was. Came along fine with some of the afforementioned remedies

I cut the line, so i was able to get the box end on it, and it just rounded.

I did use wd40 and heat, but thats when i realized it was aluminium.

Now i'm just sad.

but thats into steel.
not the same game at all. but not as bad as stainless-aluminum. thats a whole new level of horror

Fair point... people who put steel and alumium bolts/threading together should be shot

The last time I tried to do brake lines, trying to unbolt the soft line torqued the hard line enough to have it crack and leak suddenly

fucking rust

>where were going we dont need no fucking dust shields

fuck it, i'm just going to splice in new lines

With it being that bad in one spot, it may be worth getting all the lines replaced. I think it's only a couple hundred dollars for a shop to do it, and they get the headache.

Are you going to use aluminium bolts on your gearbox and engine?

> yea right

This, I had a shop run entirely new brake lines front to back in my land yacht and it cost me $250. I supplied the line, bought it online. Copper-nickel alloy so it'll never rust again. If you let them supply the new line, they'll put shitty chinese steel and you'll be facing the same problem again in five years, plus they'll charge you 5x what it was worth in addition to the labor.

Despite my bitching, i actually enjoy having a project.

pic related is the line out from the abs, those are not coming out. I wanted to do what had done, and just install better lines through out. But it's such a poor design i'ma just patch it up and sell it.

This truck is a nightmare on service. The front brake pistons are ceramic.

>heat that shit up with a blowtorch
>aluminum junction box

Got an 05 Silverado...brake lines rusted out, no longer able to Mcgyver some copper lines, so from stealership lines were $300 special order...stealership offered to install for additional $1500...Canada btw...
Bought lines, installed myself...

Well there's two problems. I said shop, not stealership. We have shops that don't charge stealership prices. Second is Canada. Your costs for stuff over there is stupid high.

I live in a mechanic central kind of city. I have access to a few salvage yards, and countless small shops that specialize is specific repairs. Until rust or wreck takes it, we keep cars on the road; on the cheap.

reposting

So i have a car converted to R134a, and it was done somewhat professionally. The compressor, hard lines and soft lines were all replaced so it did all used to work. When I got the car it had no freon (sat for a long time) so I just topped it off and it worked great when driving. Then I stopped using the car for a while, and it pretty much doesn't work at all. Blows barely any cold air for about 5 mins then the compressor kicks on and off rapidly.

Now I'm driving it a lot and want the a/c to work again. So I pulled out my gauges and did a vacuum test. I can get the low side to about -28~-29 ish which is good, but then when I turn off the vacuum the lowside gauge drops down to about -20 and seems to just keep going after about 10 min. after about 30 mins it sat around 0.

I tried to inject some UV dye into the system but I'm not sure if it took it in. I did it while a/c compressor was working for 3 seconds like the bottle (quick connect top to inject) said. I couldn't find any leaks around the lines, but then again I'm not sure if the dye even went in.

Any tips for working with a/c? I've done it a few times before where it just worked by adding freon, but this shit is annoying.

Could electrical connections somewhere past the dash a/c switch be causing the rapid on off??

Evacuating the system is more or less just removing everything from the system right?

I fully understand enjoying challenging projects. However, I am very bothered by patch jobs when it comes to brakes. Then to just sell it makes it double bad. You'll be handing over a ticking time bomb to someone who wouldn't know it's there. Imagine the crash that is likely when a different bad spot in the brake lines go out, and loses all brakes. This isn't brake pads making noise, this is complete brake failure looming in the future. Even cheap steel lines are better than about to break lines.

half the lines flared.

I agree with everything you say.

I know someone who wants to put it on bags and a qx56 face and he's fully aware of the trucks condition.

I just need it for a week or so until i can find a new pick-up.

>DIY Repair

We in the repair industry usually call what you're doing 'fuckery'

And the rest of us know many in the repair industry don't really know more than we do. It gets old being told a vehicle needs an expensive repair, and it was anything but what they said. It's why we do it ourselves.

There is no logic in your ignorance.

>fuckery
Yeah, that sums it up well. A combination of stubbornness(actual spelling) and being cheap.

woke up for work and remembered the dumb idea i had of DYI'ing some shit nip brakes. Long day ahead, hard rain a cummin'.

What you need to do is dedicate a Sunday to spend $20 on brake lines, $2 on the stupid little junction block and bend the 4 lines. I don't get what the point of flaring the other lines you cut is if the one is still fucked in the block and the others will 99% not come out?

The junction is the same ID through as the lines, i couldn't determine if it had any purpose that made it necessary.

It doesn't, so the plan is to delete it and use the bracket it's bolted to, to secure the new splice.

But getting the junction out was proving to be a real mr. E. Nigma.

Got some ideas, but, won't get to it til noonish.

lmao wow it's late. I just now notice that it's not 1 in and 3 out.

Next time put a rubber band around the bolt then turn it with a wrench, best way to turn stripped bolts.

The base of my gas pedal broke. Instead of buying new one I fixed mine for less than euro. Brand new costs 50+ euro

kek is that one of those "audi comfort pedals"?

mine is broken of as well, didnt even realise it til i took a closer look

It's from e39. Without the base the car is barely driveble.

Contamination.

>Did you drive over fresh pavement? seems like road grimes that solidified.

The point that there are DIYers that know as much as you, or know more than you when it comes to their car slipped right by you?

Like when a mechanic told me I needed a $1,800 timing chain job, but there was nothing wrong with my timing chain. Instead it needed new cats, new coils, and was running rich. All less than $1,800.

Or the time a mechanic replaced all the ignition parts in a Ranger, couldn't clear the misfire code. I get the truck, learned mechanic put all wrong parts in truck, because he didn't take the time to double check the VIN. I put in correct parts, truck runs perfect with 251K miles.

It sucks trying to find a mechanic who isn't a glorified DIY hack.