DIY Help

Alright Veeky Forums, tell me how I fucked up.
Every time i change my oil, I have to overtighten the filter or else it leaks right from the filter gasket. And I mean using a filter wrench and turning until it completely stops, probably 50+ ft-lbs.
Ive tried 3 different brands of filters all with the same result, made sure there's no stuck gasket or crossthreading, and even tightened the filter fitting that screws into the block.
Car/engine is a 2004 Durango with a rebuilt 5.7l hemi.
Pic related, its the oil fitting.

Get a remote oil filter setup and slather it onto the block with a good amout of RTV silicone. You should be fine.

I have seen this EXACT problem on another rebuilt 5.7 hemi in a chrysler 300

look for rough or sharp edges on the filter mount.

if nothing, get something straight like a ruler and put it on the edge where the seal rests and check for gaps. pic kind of related, it's what i'm trying to explain.

and i assume you're not a complete idiot and put oil on the seal first?

Thats my plan B right now, the rebuild/install is under warranty but i dont want to be without my only car if the engine has to come out again.
Any idea what the issue was?
I already felt for any rough spots or channels that might allow leakage but I'll try the thing with the feeler gauge next oil change. And yeah I prefill and lube up the gasket every time.

Under warrenty changes everything. I would take it back if the stealership is still responsible for fix'n your lemony car.
They better give you a loaner car too.

Ive already been back to the independent shop that did the rebuild and install once, before i knew that overtightening it fixes it. They basically said it was 2 bad filters in a row and it was fine for a few days.
The rebuilder is 2.5 hours away and I wouldn't get a loaner

2 bad filters in a row!!
I have never in my live had even one bad filter. Sound slike some bullshit.
I would call the better buisness burro.

the gasket surface looks pretty scratch up. check for any deep scratches that could be leaking oil. Maybe try fitting the filter with silicone? So it can fill up any possible voids.

Sounded like BS to me too but I was watching over the mechanic's shoulder the whole time and it wasn't leaking after so I took it.

After taking another zoomed in look at the picture this spot looks a bit suspicious

Yeah that red circled spot does look suspect.
I would do the slicone remote filter setup idea if your not gonna take it back to the mechanic .

Did you smear oil on top of and under the gasket? If so then you've probably got a warped contact surface, possibly from previous overtightening. The remote filter idea sounds like a good plan assuming the oil leak is bad enough to care.

As much as I'd like to have it done right, theyd probably have to pull the engine to machine the surface flat or swap for a new block and I'd be without a car for a week either way.
I might try to convince them to pay for a remote filter install if i can convince them that they gave me a block with an improperly machined mating surface over the phone/email.

I always put oil on the top and sides of the gasket but never under since theyre crimped into place.

That block definitely looks problematic. Is it the same block that came out of the car? I ask because some shops will just get a junkyard engine and they often have problems because the last oil filter was taken off with an air chisel.

The block is not the original, I'd assume they remanufacture usable cores and that mine was either a previous customer's or one they got from a yard

The shop that fixed is responsible. If you plan on owning the car for a long time i would demand the fix it even if inhad to drive 2.5 hours and be without a car for a month. Get a rental car.

No idea, I believe they just overtightented the shit out of the filter every time.

If you can't/won't deal with the shop, then sell the car.

>assume they remanufacture usable cores
Do you have any hard evidence that you got a rebuilt? This sounds like the typical junkyard engine swap because this surface is usually check by the rebuilder.

I suppose not since i haven't pulled the heads off or anything to check for myself. But, everything besides the block itself like the heads, bolts, pan, etc appears to be new.

I appreciate all the suggestions, Ill call the shop tomorrow and start looking at filter relocation kits.

Try rtv black sealant