Questions That Don't Deserve There Own Thread

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-Why would you waste a trip-6 post?

-Why do you think that "there" is the same as "their?"

i just copy pasted from previous and forgot to link it
im a shit op sorry

Are aftermarket underdrive pulleys a meme? I've read it's a 10-15 HP upgrade for my 3l V6 that doesn't reduce gas mileage.

Buying my first new car.

Should I get the 2017 Mazda CX-5 Diesel 2.2, or the 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5i?
Both are due to be released any time.

Not a meme
they're designed for race vehicles
in DD applications however
if you're not making enough REVs
your accessories may not perform as desired

Fuck off back to /pol/ you degenerate racist

kill yourself you nigger lover

I read it only screwed with your accessories if you bought a shit one

Good goy buy a new car

would you pay $20-30 to watch a monster truck show?
am I getting ripped off?

Nobody was complaining until you brought it up.

>replace alternator pulley with larger pulley
>turns slower now
>doesn't charge battery as fast
>now your car can't start
it doesn't screw with you accessories
it may not power them enough to operate properly

I would pay $100 for decent seats

for a 4 hour show?

What about the ones that are the same size, but weigh less? They would surely drive the accessories at the stock rate, correct?

Prove it wrong fuccboi

yes, but that has different challenges and fewer gains
>3-6 hp average per POUND of material removed
>weight: 1.2 pounds
replacing all of the pulleys might get you 1-2 pounds
also light weight pulleys are more likely to be shit

I know, but I've read that only shitty ones have that problem.

>Prove it wrong fuccboi
For one thing african civilization such as egypt predates white civilization, blacks invented it not whites

second civilization is not destroyed

enjoy ur racisim

>blacks were responsible for the Egyptian empire
Nice source you have there Hotep, too bad it isn't true considering how all historical evidence supports the contrary

2016 cruze ls stick shift with 8700 miles. Owe $4k. I'm a NEET and want this car to go away. should I:

>sell to carmax for $11k to just be done with it
>try to sell to a dealer for $11,5
>wait 2-3 weeks for fuckface GM financial to send me a lien release, list for $12k on cl and autotrader (who is going to buy a stick cruze?)
i don't want to be tortured for 500-1000 dollars

Which one of these should I get as first car(if any)?
what exactly is m3? I dont think the second even is m3 since it says "m3 look" so i guess its only the visual part but im still curious.
Kinda scared because the second has only 70k km for a 2004 car does that mean it may not have been used and not maintained properly for a time

>Nice source you have there Hotep, too bad it isn't true considering how all historical evidence supports the contrary

>Egypt was not built by africans


i guess that's why Cairo is in Paris

Berbers and Egyptians ≠ sub Saharan or west Africans
Sorry but your bait is shit

You are retarded, humanity evolved in africa

learn to fossils

>owe more on a POS than I've spent on both my daily and my truck

This is why you shouldn't spend money you don't have.

Try putting the worm on the hook retard

I considering purchasing a vehicle in west Virginia and moving it to virginia. However, it's un-registered in wv, so what do I do?

Trailer it out of WVA, take it to DMV with the owners title signed over to you and get your tags dumbass

What if I don't have a trailer or a tow vehicle? Would it be better to rent those as apposed to getting the owner to register the car before I buy it?

Yes, the owner would probably take on a higher price tag
The way I see it you have two options:
>use tags from one of your other vehicle to drive it back
Risky but doable, specifically in VA
>rent a truck/trailer to go pick it up
It's going to be more costly but it's 100% legal

>Literally WE WAS KANGZ

Shut the fuck up dickwasher

M3 is the highest performing trim of the 3 series, but if its just "m3 look" it just has some borrowed body parts from an m3 fitted on some lower tier 3 series

BMWs as a first car can be a wild choice since its more expensive to maintain than other cars.

Come to think of it, the current owner knows it won't pass wv inspection (allegedly a $3 fix) and hasn't fixed the issue. So I could be driving home without a inspection sticker as well. Not an issue if I trailered it though, but it is activating my almonds now. Thanks.

yeah theyre the same price so one cant be real m3 i guess
I got a 5k budget i would have like 2k left for any maintenance and its generally cheaper in albania
guess im going for the black one since it looks better to me too

I know LITERALLY NOTHING about car audio. How do I replace my radio or faceplate or w/e on my Civic with something that has aux input and preferably USB charging, and somewhat fits the 90's aspect of my car instead of being an ugly piece of dogshit.

Reported for posting racism outside /pol/

Search "single DIN head unit" on google

What is this black rubber on my car called and how do I replace it?

Twin vs single vs sequential turbos? What's best for what?

Twin/sequential twin turbos we're good when single scroll turbos were the only ones you could get, nowadays single twin-screw turbos are the best

If you really want to keep that 90s aesthetic, get a cassette to aux adapter. It will be shit audio quality, though. Maybe go junkyard crawling for some "newer" OEM radios? It might be tough, though, aux didnt become standard until the late 00s. Really its easier to just go aftermarket and try to find something subtle. Pioneer makes some ~50 dollar shit that isnt too gaudy.

Best for what?

Turbo charging an internal combustion engine that runs on gasoline

Would it be stupid to use a used 1985 Toyota with 120k miles on it as a daily driver

depends on if it was well cared for, chances are if it has that low miles that it could have been sitting neglected a lot and while it might run fine now there might be something, especially soft parts, that could all just be waiting to give out, and luck usually has it that it starts to be a one-after-the-other situation. Any more info on the car?

Got 2 violations a while ago, and my probation period or w/e that i was given is almost up. I had to pay a certain amount, and not get any more violations. Didnt pay it all yet, and looks like im not going to be able to. Also missed a random court date that i guess was a follow up. The paper says i could get a bench warrant if i dont show for the one i missed, what will happen if i dont manage to complete the terms of the deal before the end date? Just late fees and a ticket on my record? Will i have to stay in a cell overnight or some BS? Called the court but you have to go in to get anything more than basic info. Dont wamt to go in and get fucked for that bench warrant somehow, so id like to know what would happen before i go

It's just a craigslist post that caught my eye and most likely I'm not gonna buy it


I have some vibration in the steering wheel when I reach 60mph+, its not too bad where it's unfit to drive but my hands go numb on long drives.

At first I thought it was some mud from recent rains, but I washed it out and it still vibrates. Any ideas on what it could be?

Is a 2012 Mazda 3 iTouring worth it for light modding? I know there's a respectable aftermarket for Mazdas, and I was thinking once I have mine more or completely paid off that it would be fun to make a couple changes to things like the suspension and whatnot, not for any "track day bro" purposes but just to make it a more enjoyable car for me to drive than it already is

If it's the hatchback yeah, hatches almost always look better modded comapred to amerifat marketed sedans.

What are some of the best vehicles (1990-2003) to start off for amateur rally? Gotta be inexpensive, easy to work on, and plenty of aftermarket availability.

I wish it was the hatch, but sadly it's the sedan; I bought it for reliability/gas mileage first and fun was the secondary qualifier. Like I said though, I don't want to go crazy and or anything, just decent suspension/shifter upgrades and maybe an intake and exhaust. My goal is to make it a little more sport-oriented without having it end up looking like a slammed boiracer car. If this isn't retarded then I'd also be curious about any specific upgrades I should make and/or any decent companies that offer said parts/upgrades. This would also be the first car I'd ever have modded, so I'm really pretty inexperienced in the world of automotive aftermarket.

Get to court asap to clear that shit up...you don't want to get picked up on a bench warrent for a fucking ticket...tell them you need more time to pay it off, and the probation will most likely start over...

>car battery

>new battery, less than a year old
>car ran fine, turned over first try for the lest ever
>go out last night and get home with no problems at all
>go to start get something out of car
>doors wont even lock
>nothign lights up
>test batter and get a reading in the mv range
>disconnect batter and test again
>1.4xx volts and slowly climbing

This is a battery for a 3.8L v6, 1000 crank amps, 800 cca. What in fucks name can drain it from cranking-will-start-the-car voltage to lights-dont-even-work voltage in about 12 hours?

I just tested it agian, its up to three volts on its own

Is this the most Veeky Forums gun?

Its beautiful. Who made this and did they publish instructions?


Yeah guys, I know it's /k/, but he did ask.

Ive had 180 days to do all this though. Im going in the morning to clear it up, but ive only paid 20 of 400. I can pay most of it, hopefully theyll take that and give me another month or something at least, but again 180 days and i basically havent done any of it because im an idiot.

Is there a reason buying cars at dealerships is more expensive than buying cars from Craigslist?

Am I better off buying a car from dealer for this reason?

Found a tumblr post with reverse search. Apparently its a mass produced gun from the 50s

how do i into haggling?

dealers need to make a profit, craigslist people may or may not know how to profit

they go exclusively off of book value and often have less wiggle room on price, plus used cars they take in on trade they'll generally only turn around and re-sell if they know they're in decent condition, otherwise they'll send shittier/older cars to auction or just scrap.

Also, they usually do all of the registration work themselves so you don't have to deal with the DMV, and they usually add BS fees as well for "paperwork" and other stupid stuff.

on CL you have more of a chance of getting someone who's more lenient on price and may not know the true value of what they have, but you also have a higher chance of getting something shitty.

Anymore I see CL more for potential projects or specialty stuff that might pop up and dealerships more for when you either want to buy new or know that you have a reliable used DD

Oh god there are so many things incorrect about what you said where do I begin.

1. The first civilization were the Sumarians in Mesopotamia (Iraq today). So no, the camel jockeys have you beat.

2. your waz kangz Egyptians only have monuments because of Jewish slave labor, so black people, where those Reperations for the Jews at?

3. Your "civilizations" didn't have have shit but mud houses and crop feilds.

4. Modern society only is, due to the Greeks, Romans, British, and white Americans.

Lets go over some things white people made shal we?

Harnessing electricity
Freedom of speech
Space travel
Modern medicine

Black people BTFO. Stay mad dirt man.

Im albanian too m8 thats pretty funny

Last time i went to albania i saw only volkswagens and mercedes and no bmws.
Unfortunately i don't speak albanian.

Im planning on getting my very first car/DD on craigslist so idk how likely is it that i'll get fucked over.

Weather stripping.

9 times out of ten its a out of balance wheel.

You guys have any idea what can be going on with my car? Can't check under the hood right now because of apartment rules but it drives rough. Doesn't sound like the misfires I've had before so idk if its misfiring.

Heres what it sounds like now

and heres what it normally sounds like

It used to do that for about 10 seconds after starting up but now it does it all the time. Not looking for an exact answer of whats wrong but any ideas of what it might be.

>Can't check under the hood right now because of apartment rules but it drives rough.

Found your problem.

How old are the tires? What's the tread depth? Have you used Fix-a-Flat in them?

When you had the misfires, what all was replaced?

Kinda hard to tell whats going on in the video.

>apartment rules against opening your hood

A bad alternator or a problem with the wiring from the alternator to the battery. Make sure the terminals are clean of corrosion and tight.

Did you check your terminal connections on the other end of the cords?

It may also be that your alternator took a shit but not likely if you didn't get a battery light on the way home.

Forgot to add that it might be a parasitic draw.

I replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires but it sounds rough and the speedometer shouldnt jump around like that.

Already got told by the landlord not to do it when I was changing a headlight.

What's the make and model? Psom's (the guage cluster) In old F150's sometimes do the same thing when going out.

I just bought a 2003 honda civic and the check engine light just turned on. Everything seems to be fine, but I read that if you overfill the gas tank the check engine light will turn on. I gassed it up yesterday and stopped fueling once the handle automatically stopped. But at work I park on an upward incline so the front end is a few inches above the rear end. On a full tank, would this incline cause the check engine light to turn on due to "overfilling"?

yeah i see those too and can get them they just seem boring to be desu senpai
still not sure if i should go manual or automatic

fuck changing rotors man. i guess a bracket that holds the pads in got moved around and its scrapping the rotor. do i fucking have to take it apart and fix it?

1983 Toyota Cressida

Rotors are easier to work on than drums though.

Yes you probably fucked your pads if the bracket came loose.

Get a vatozone to run the codes. CEL's can mean just about anything.

well i changed the pads like a month ago and tried to get away with skipping on the rotors. pads were completely gone and im lucky i got them when i did. my rotors still sqeaked though and they were to worn to get turned so i bought new ones. but seriously fuck positioning the caliper and bolt it back on. anyways the brackets can shift left and right and i think one of them is too far in one direction and its apparently right on the rotor. pretty sure its only one side

If it were the alternator, I would expect to have seen some other symptoms.
I dont know what voltage a car will cease to function, but Id guess it would be around 9 volts.
This car needs between 10 and 11 volts to crank, I know this because the last battery would go down do 9 volts if not started for a week or two which confirms a parasitic drain. The problem is though, the leak takes a week to drain the car from >12v to 9.xV. The car went from around 12v-14v to 1.3v in a matter of about 13 hours.

So if it were a bad alternator, Id still have enough power to light up the dash, and if it were my parasitic drain then it should still be capable of doing something given such a short time frame.

its just blowing my mind. Either the battery shit itself, which I think not because of the fact that its regaining voltage now that its disconnected. Last checked its hanging at around 5.6V.

Does shit ever happen like relay switches get stuck on? Arnt they designed to fail open?

Is the 302 Windsor that was in everything from Panthers to Fox Bodys to pickups a bad engine for making power? I heard that if you want to make more than 400whp the block can't handle it, any truth to this?

Evening mentlegen. I had some questions about things that I am pretty sure are just a solution looking for a problem.

I have come to ask about clean side seperators, in this case for a 5.3L EcoTec3 small block V8.

My understanding is that unless I am constantly redlining it and doing general hoon shit, then having a clean side separator is useless because I won't be getting that much oil blowby under regular operation.

Will a dose of throttle body/valve train cleaner every 40k miles do the same thing as a clean side separator? For the most part I drive like a grandpa unless I am dicking around, and that's once in a blue moon.


Seems good. Should I?

>15 years old
>149k miles

Apparently he knows what he has

Turns out he was kinda close. Still gonna try and haggle, of course.

Get a pad separator or c-clamp to push the pistons/pads back in before putting the caliper back on.

My uncle in vlore got his car stolen that was auto so idk how the auto v manual situation is in albania but maybe get a manual for automatic theft deterrent

What grades do I need to fix these spots before and after? Something like 1000 to get off the rust and then 100 to clean the paint up or something?

Should I just get the stuff at the dealership?

What's a good book to learn about cars and how they work. Mechanical process and all? I'm not good with youtube videos.

what country you in, and what sort of surface? if you want something simple/cheap you probably want to go for a fwd hatchback, older the better (older cars are quite a bit lighter). would also try to get something common so you can find parts easy, and without major rust issues

Should I get rid of the tiny spoiler on my car until I find a GT-R spoiler?

pic related: what I'm think of doing, and the spoiler I wanna get

I'm able to bring a car from England to America in a little while, and I'm thinking about getting one to sell in the states. What RHD vehicle would I be best off with? I was thinking a MkIV Supra or a R33, something like that