General Truck Thread

Just picked up this 1989 GMC Sierra V8 140k miles, for $2000. Owned by a mechanic. Truck Runs good Im thinking of putting in a lowering kit and a nice exhaust. How did i do?

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Also you guys have any relatively cheap upgrades i can do to give it more power?

Will a cold air intake do much to it? its like $250

2-3hp maybe...

what about a magnaflow exhaust?

Do you happen to live in the Houston area? Just saw the same exact truck today parked at a dollar store, mint too.

No im in Southern California

'89 still use TBI or did they move on to EFI by then?

This one is EFI, Any suggestions?

It's got a factory cold air intake.
Most kits advertised as cold air intakes pull in warmer air than the factory intake and will hurt performance.
The few that are actual cold air intakes will give you 1-2 HP on the top end with no gains in the low to mid range, so none of them are worth the money.

>keep 305/350
-ultimate TBI mods
-very mild cam
-single 3-3.5" or dual 2-2.5" exhaust

-cheap and easy
-little more power

-still not much power

>L29 454 swap
-port and polish heads
-mild cam
-shorty headers

-tons of power
-even more torque
-fairly cheap
-huge improvement in power even without the mods

-small decrease in fuel economy

>LS swap
-too many options to list

-get to use "LS swap" buzzword to impress 12 year olds on instagram
-takes well to ebay turbos if you're not concerned about longevity

-most effort
-usually highest cost
-not much gain without mods

For the life of me I can't find a late 70s F100 w/ flareside bed. i'm willing to restore one even i find a decommissioned one.

I took off the catalytic converter off of mine and straight pipe the exhaust with a glasspack

> Lowering Kit
> Exhaust
> Lives in SoCal
Are you by chance a dirty spic?

SoCal here.

No spics drive 88-95 gm full size truck. It's always a nig or some old white dude. They all own 96-98 c/k and s10s from all years.

Look into a Hooker kit, $500 gets you headers, mufflers and all the tubing, do not get fucking flowmaster or glass packs, for the love of god.

If you're after a lowering kit, do it right, if you cut springs you're a piece of shit, look into a Belltech kit or McGaughy, if you've got the dosh to spend go with Ridetech, their streetgrip setup is fucking awesome.

Truck looks good from the outside though, well done on the price, LMC/Brothers/Classic Industries will be your new friends.

As others said, don't fuck with hot air intakes, the only ones that are proper cost an assload and make a few degrees difference at best.

wont the check engine light turn on?

>small penis thread

here we go again, another truckfag circle jerk.

user, there are reasonable trucks out there, for fucks sake my Tacoma is functionally a Camry with a bed and it's only 500lbs heavier, not all of us a are driving an F250 dually penis compensator 9000s.

You only have a small truck to compensate for your tiny dick.

Makes sense, I drive a first gen tundra to compensate for my very average dick

i got my 1999 Ranger XLT l4 last summer. so far it's been pissing me off, it's my fault for not paying more for a used vehicle.

it failed inspection so im in the middle of swapping the shocks tie rods, upper & lower ball joints and the brakes.

and after that it should be fine i hope. but owning this thing has done nothing but make my life harder. it rains a shitload in VA and i cant ride my damn motorcycle in these massive downpours.

but despite being stressed out finding other ways to get around and asking friends to work i've gotten around to fix shit myself by owning this piece of shit.

but still, fuck all of that shit i'll pay more than 3k for a used car from now on because paying less than that is nothing but endless frustration

That's a real shame user, I managed to get a Tacoma for 3500 in VA with only 130,000mi, the only issue is it has the typical Tacoma rust starting to pop up, you just have to find the right garage to do inspections and not come off as someone who they can charge to replace components.

If they think they can get you to have work done there, then then they will try to fail you, just be glad that most counties don't have emissions testing requirements since that would kill old trucks.

you're right, it'd been way worse if i owned this POS in California because the emissions bullshit are absolutely stalin-tier

Don't do the lowering kit.

build LS autocross truck nao

if its 2wd who gives a shit if its a little lower.

hell my truck needs new suspension and i plan on lowering it 4 inches or so

i'd say swap in a flowmaster cat-back and new headers OP.

don't fucking lower it ffs.

Just got this semon demon a couple weeks ago pretty much smoke every faggot in a stock v8 stang all day long

1987 GMC S15
Just got the thing for $800 buckaroos
Gonna get the exhaust manifold fixed because it smells like shit and it might not pass smog as is.

>smoking anyone

I've been looking to get a truck recently as I work in a local produce company

I came across this one on craigs, is it any good for the price or look for something else?

Beaners-the thread

>drive 88-95 gm full size truck. It's always a nig or some old white dude. They all own 96-98 c/k and s10s from all years.


5 grand tops

That is like, the definition of bad taste.

hmm ok, could you tell me what you saw what might be a thing to be wary about

didnt think about going 5k. thanks

what is with the fucking truck fags on here?

if you have any inclination to do anything but lift it and make it into a 2wd pre runner baja machine you are a fuckin tool

have fun lowering your truck and still being slower and shittier handling than a $3k civic

this post gives me deja vu
have you posted this exact thing before?

Throttle body efi. Two injectors in the throttle body.

Whipple supercharger, or cam and exhaust. Next step would be a complete mod with heads n sheit. But at that point a swap to a 1999 and up engine is chesper and more rewarding mod wise.

My 1989 Sierra
my dad swapped the old engine with a L98 and straight piped it.
I took off the light bar just the other day.
I'm thinking about replacing the 4" hood cowl with a 2". I'm in the process of replacing the side window tint.

K. Not like it goes you know off road. Might as well make it drive slightly better on the interstate where I drive it

>if you have any inclination to do anything but lift it and make it into a 2wd pre runner baja machine you are a fuckin tool
>unless you do the most toolbag thing to your truck, you're a fucking tool
What did he mean by this?

Well the fender isn't completely rusted out, so there is that. You should probably go through it an make sure all the wiring is still good. 90s GMs have really shitty wiring.

Not the guy but I do see his logic, lowering a truck makes it useless for on road truck things such as hauling and towing since you don't have the suspension travel also since it's a truck it's not going to be very fast and has poor aerodynamics and handling from the gate so it makes no sense if you want something sporty.

If you lift the truck you can still haul and tow at or near the same capabilities, but you also in theory would do a little better off road, with lowering you loose the value of being able to do certain things with a truck for mediocre gains, if you lift it you only gain capabilities, hence lowering a truck being a tool thing, it only adds visual appeal.

Bad ass

Lowered trucks have airbags you fucking retards

There's no rust on the truck tho?

dis my '93. Bought it from the OG owner, 130K miles, $2600. Southern truck so no rust, overall really good shape. Interior is minty af.

Already replaced the transmission, about to drop a GM crate 350, 4.11 gears, posi, and drop it anther 2 inches front and rear.

Not bad for a long bed, still wish it was a short bed though.


90s GM truck wiring was fine. TBI trucks are super simple anyways; certainly no worse than the same era Fords with self igniting cruise control.

Is there a difference between ford, gmc, and dodge trucks? Specifically diesel 4x4 trucks?


I mean what kind of faggot would want a shortbed on a truck especially a reg. cab. Long bed master race man.

The fuck are you on about? Not once have I said I wanted to lift nor lower a truck. I just want to find one, restore it and leave it all stock.

>Mechanic owned
Probably on par with female owned.

You see, mechanics have access to a shop and all necessary tools. It's not a big deal to throw it in the lift and fix things as they break.

Cheap oil, cheap filters, cheap parts galore.

I'll never buy another mechanics vehicle after working at a small local mechanics shop.
>Having shop access I just let things go till they had to be repaired

>Not being swindled by the sales jew
>not knowing which parts are wearing out and replacing them before they break


Don't they not have check engine lights till 91 or 93

Less wieght, Less length and doesn't need bed.


It's mostly preference.

I have a bad back. Lowering it makes it easy to load and unload.

What makes no sense is people like you can't get over people wanting to do what they want or like.

Ever consider the people who actually want to make a truck handle, even though you think they can't? I guess all those 4 bar links, panhard bars, tubular control arms, airbag or coil setups, rack and pinion setups for the older trucks, drop crossmembers do nothing for a pickups handling abilities right?

Lowering a truck isn't just solely for looks, they do ride better with moderate drops and handle far fucking better especially if you install bigger sway bars. I don't think you're able to grasp the idea of lowering not being laying frame, 2/4, 4/6 and 5/7 drops are common as fuck on trucks, and make a world of difference, not to mention you can still haul most things issue free, it isn't often people are maxing out payloads you fucking mong.

>halfton 2wd
>better lift it solely for visual appeal because it isn't going offroad anyways, and makes it that much more difficult getting things in/out of the bed!

Let's not forget, you can, and very cheaply might I add, put airbags on the rear so you can still haul just as much as stock while being lowered, even drastically lowered with a mild c-notch in the frame.

Anybody here have/used to have a 1996-1999 Chevy C1500? How are they when it comes to reliability, tunability, ease of maintenance, etc? It's just a pretty standard sbc, right?

Also how hard is it to find a single cab short bed?

>tfw no jeep gladiator

Less weight? Lol, you're talking a couple inches of frame rail and sheet metal bed dude. My shortbox weighs 4200lbs on a scale with no one in it, that's with 1 of 2 gas tanks full too.

My truck is a long bed tho lmao??

My dakota which I post way too much, putting a 5.9 in it at the beginning of July


V8 in question

Was the F-Series ever produced with RHD?

Anyone here have run-ins with high highway mileage trailblazers? Thinking about getting an 02 that seems to be in pretty good condition, only thing is the computer is throwing sensor malfunction codes and a misfiring cylinder code that could most likely be attributed to a coil pack.

Its in the ballpark of 240,000 miles

Little sister has an 02' with 234k, older sister has an 06' with 220k.

The 02' is on its last legs. Has difficulty building oil pressure, randomly cuts out, and it's beginning to overheat. Transmission on the 02' was rebuilt at 160k.

The 06' has been dead reliable. The improved 4l65e hasn't been rebuilt that we know of. Both have 4wd issues. Both have had the RH side lower beam pigtails burn up. Both have had the transmission cable replaced. Both have had the valve cover gaskets replaced and numerous coils replaced. Both have had the VVT Solenoid behind the water pump replaced.

The '06 has been in numerous front end accidents from 30-70mph and the airbags have yet to deploy. No codes, either.

Dude doesn't know much, especially about the LS.
Resident GMT400 and GM truck motor expert here.

A 5.3 LS swap will be the absolute best bang for your buck and still cheap. And even stock they they already make nearly 300hp. $1000-2000 dollar lowish miles 5.3, maybe rebuild, wiring harness. Relatively effortless and cheap. Not as effortless as building up what you have but it's hardly worth it with a TBI V8. You don't have vortec heads so you'd absolutely need to start with that. Need a much better cam. Need a much better full exhaust set up, especially at the down pipe+headers.
I encourage OP to look at the GMT400 forum and elsewhere to learn about an LS swap if he cares about performance.
As for lowering, any reputable brand made drop spindles and any quality material lowering blocks.

Needs need rear axle seal and fuel filter head for sure. Probably a variety of other stuff. Otherwise, pick it up for $7k and that's a good buy.

What about the GM HT383E? Chevrolet says it's a direct swap and all accessories from the 350 bolt onto the new motor including the intake manifold and exhaust system.

For 6k, I was seriously considering it but then again, my truck isn't worth all that much anymore.

>96 z71

Couldn't help you with any power mods but I've been daily driving an '87 with TBI 100+ km a day for almost 3 years with multiple 1000+ km road trips and haven't had a single running issue, very maintenance free system in my experience. A nice thing about TBI is that you can blast it with carb cleaner every once in a while the same way you would with a regular carb.

hello friend.

>mechanic owned
Bailing wire is $5 per 100'.

LS shill detected.

I get it, the LS is a great platform. If you've got a small displacement engine in a car you want to race that's expensive to get real power out of, the LS is absolutely fantastic and likely THE best option available especially when you take cost vs gain into account. However...

>A 5.3 LS swap will be the absolute best bang for your buck and still cheap.
Absolutely not the best bang for your buck. IIRC the 5.3 peak HP rating is around ~270-295 stock depending on year with ~285 being the most common. Compare that to an L29 454 at 290HP, and there's not much difference. It could go either way depending on year, but it's still not really enough to matter. So peak HP is essentially the same. Torque on the other hand is a different story. The 5.3 ranges from 315 to 335 ft-lbs compared to the 7.4's 410 ft-lbs. This tells us what we already knew, that in the rest of the RPM range, the 7.4 makes far more power than the 5.3. For daily driving, The stock 7.4 is going to feel far more powerful than even the 295HP 5.3 because at those RPMs, it does have far more power. Additionally, an L29 can usually be had for around $500-1000, which is half what you're claiming for a 5.3. Plus you're going to save money on wiring, motor mounts, accessory brackets, etc. due to the 7.4 being a factory option in these trucks.

But let's take a step back and compare the 5.3 to other small blocks since it was intended to run along side the big block rather than directly compete with it. For example, the L31 5.7. Again, purchase price is generally lower than the LS, even more so than the 7.4. And again, wiring, motor mounts, accessory brackets, etc. can be reused or simply sourced for scrap value at junkyards rather than relying on expensive aftermarket or fabricating your own.
Even with only 255 HP compared to the 270-295 range of the 5.3, many prefer the 5.7 in trucks because it destroys the 5.3 in low end power.

The 330 ft-lb torque rating of the 5.7 is further evidence of this flatter torque curve. So even here, the LS isn't looking all that great.

Don't get me wrong. If I were conefag with a Miata I'd be out looking for an LS day one. But this is a completely different situation. There are already great engine options existing on the platform that can be sourced for less money, that are easier to swap, and many would argue the tradeoffs favor the existing options for most users of this platform. In the vast majority of cases, LS swaps simply don't make sense here. If you buy a 4.3 V6 and want to build a turbo autocross truck, then absolutely go source an LS. I've seen a few guys even swapping Corvette IRS under these trucks.

So true with the s10's kek. See them all over driven by Hispanics

I enjoy my 96 k1500. Bought a $1000 focus and straight traded for it. Vortec 5.7. 4x4. A.c./cruise/all power options/etc. 170k on it. Definitely can't complain and its a great older truck for hauling shit with and pulling my boat.
I did cave last month and rebuilt the front end with all moot shit and now it drives like new. I'll sooner drive this thing for 5more years before I drop 30k+ on a newer truck.

Issue is always just finding a decent older one that kids haven't torn up or done a stupid "mods" too. Mine only came with the mud tires and brush guard so I got fairly lucky.

Welcome to swb crew.

Were any of the American trucks made RHD? I saw a Chevrolet, maybe an 80s or 90s model, with RHD. Was it a convert or a factory model?

I know GM made factory RHD trucks and Suburbans for export in the 90s.

My exhaust note

Sounds good. What kind of mods does it have