I'm heavily considering getting into dieselfaggotry, whst should I know?

I'm heavily considering getting into dieselfaggotry, whst should I know?

Just Cummins swap a miata.

Don't remove your SCR/urea injection system. Don't remove your DPF.

Is it ever worth remaking a rusted chassis frame section on a Nissan Hardbody?

Also, why does the TD27 sound like absolute sex? Can you drift with one, or will it fuck your day up/end up on your side?

>inb4 crew cab is shit

Always make sure he's wearing a condom.

That you ought to run them properly warm every drive, that you'll miss some of the high-end power, that it sounds like a tractor and that Veeky Forums is going to make fun of you because you're 77% likely to be a coal-rolling vape faggot

>you're 77% likely to be a coal-rolling vape faggot
I will be neither of those. Diesel engines just interest me and I like big trucks.

I like tractors, but I'm not daily driving a tractor. That would be silly, and so is driving a fullsize diesel truck just because you like diesels. VW used to sell diesel cars in the US.

>vape faggot
More like Copenhagen snuff.

>I like tractors, but I'm not daily driving a tractor.
You sound like a genuine faggot to me.
>drives a VW

Joke's on you, I drive a Toyota.

With a diesel.

I drive diesel all day inna army, I have no clue why anyone would ever choose these trucks willingly. Maybe a small diesel put-put like a w123 or rabbit but come on man, they suck unless you really want to drive a caterpillar engine.

Or if you just really want the ability to fill up both your car and your hanging gut with the grease from McDonald's

7.3L Fords are a best, but a little sluggish. Will be hard pressed to kill one, 4R100 trans is a little weak in comparison to the 5R110 that the 6.0 and 6.4 had
6.0L Fords are shit unless they've had a ton of money put in them for head studs, oil coolers, FICM, EGR delete, coolant filters, etc.
6.4L Fords are less shit unless stock. Will be okay with DPF delete, EGR delete, and a good tune. Ideally want same as above minus the FICM.
6.7L Fords are pretty good, early models had issues with bending rods after tuning but they have DPF/DOC/Urea bullshit.

Ram trucks have the 5.9L Cummins which is a fantastic engine when coupled with a manual transmission. Dodge automatics are straight up garbage as well as the rest of the actual truck.
6.7L Cummins are okay too, but need the DPF and EGR systems gone to be great.

I wouldn't even mess with a GM truck. Independent front suspension is trash and weak unless you're a highway driver that never uses it. Allison 1000 is overrated shit unless the truck is left stock. Duramax engines are okay, but low on power in comparison.

Don't listen to this guy unless you live in an emissions testing state

Well, diesels are a bit more oriented towards putting your truck to work, as the extra torque makes hauling heavy shit easier, while lower MPG's are always welcome

>Copenhagen snuff.
At the age of 23, with pretty much every single guy (and a lot of the girls the about 30 and younger) having been using this kinda of tobacco since they were 12-13 I still get weird looks when I tell people that I don't take it and that I've never tried

Points about the Ford and Dodge are dead on, but I have no idea where you got your information on GM diesels. I suspect you either had a serious lemon at one point or have literally never driven one.

Bare in mind I hold no brand loyalty. I'm neither partial to GM, Ford or Dodge. Here's my take:

I feel bad for those who fall for the "IFS is junk" meme, especially in a fullsized diesel pick up. Unless you're doing serious off roading or driving horrid lease roads majority of the time, there is basically no advantage to SFA over IFS, but IFS certainly rides a helluva lot more smoothly. I've had both a 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins 4WD QCSB, and a 2006 Chevy 2500 Duramax 4WD ECSB. Now, I never did any hardcore off roading in either, because off roading a front heavy as fuck truck seems ridiculous to me, but for times when I was in mud or trying to move a trailer through some serious muck while in 4x4, I noticed no discernable difference between the two trucks that I would attribute to difference in front suspension. That said, I sure preferred driving the Chevy on the road, loaded or unloaded, to the Dodge. After long drives, especially when unloaded, I'd be a bit beat up by the Dodge, and God forbid I hit a pothole while city driving it. The Chevy, especially when loaded, rides like a damn Cadillac.

Now, I've never owned a Ford diesel, at least not yet (the next truck I want to own is a non-2011 6.7L Powerstroke) so I can't speak for it but I don't imagine it being entirely different than my experience with the 2006 Dodge 2500 with the SFA. I do like that you can manually lock the front hubs on the Fords, however, but that's about the only thing I would think would be different.

That said, I have rode in a few friend's 6.0L and 7.3Ls. 6.0Ls rode about the same as my Dodge. The 7.3Ls, especially the older ones with the front leaf springs, rode like lumber wagons. Christ I don't know how they drive those everyday.

Worst park job ever. Is that even a lot or did they just run down a grammar school baseball team?

Yeah I don't claim to know a lot about the GM diesels, and I honestly don't care for them. I've owned two GM trucks, both werr pieces of shit (even the first one that was 6 years old with 23000 miles)

Talked to Duramax guys before, one LBZ owner who tuned his up and found out real quick that it absolutely had to have a lift pump installed and some kind of upgrade on the transmission to handle the power that a handheld tuner put it up to. Seen countless pics of tie rods snapping on the front ends.

>tfw us burgers will never get a Toyota truck powered by a Hino diesel engine.

fuck this gay universe

because it IS a shit.

unless you get it with a long bed.

4r100 wasnt introduced until 1999, before that was the E4OD

The diesel Canyonrado is the same shit.

I forgot to mention GM's pathetic twigs they put in for tie rods is my only issue with the IFS. It's an easy fix to simply install either beefier aftermarket tie rods or even just simple tie rod sleeves.

I won't really comment on tuning or performance stuff as I run mine stock as both my diesels have more than enough power from factory for my needs.

Again, I'm impartial to all brands, but I do think that stock for stock, the 06/07 Duramax might be one of the best light duty diesel pickups ever built. No emission crap, the Allison will go forever on stock power levels, LBZ engine has plenty of power stock, doesn't have any major faults (such as headgasket/injector/injection pump, etc), they start in the cold like it's nothing (didn't start mine for a week, sitting in -5 F weather, not plugged in, fired up no issue), and the only real issues they have are shitty tierods and transfer case pump rub. Both issues are solved with a few hundred dollars in parts.

The 7.3L Ford is absolutely up there as well, but my biggest issue with them is with the HEUI injection system they can be brutal to start in the cold, especially if any glowplugs fail or the relay bites the dust. I suppose any diesel is hard to start in the cold if the preheat system fails, but 7.3Ls especially are dreadful when the oil gets thick in cold temps.

Yeah I was just talking about the 99+ Super Duty's. Should've specified.

Oh yeah good point about the 7.3 cold starts. Brought a 7.3 that had spent it's entire life in southern SC up to Delaware at the beginning of this year. ~20 degree temp one night and it did not want to start, and when it did it smoked for a solid minute. I thought something had failed and I was fucked but it's apparently a normal thing.

Gelling in cold weather. Algae if you buy diesel in bulk and store it locally. If you get it at a gas station, they generally go through enough of it that it's not an issue. That algae can mess up your fuel pump and filters, can clog injectors and that can be $$$$. Don't put gas in the tank, the reverse is almost impossible due to size of nozzle but the gas nozzle is smaller and it will fit. Gas will mess up your fuel pump and injectors too. Generally they replace most of the fuel system if that happens. $$$$

Don't forget to change sparkplugs every 10k miles