Old one moved on to that great board in the sky.

Am I running rich or lean if
>It will only start when fully choked
>Won't start at all if the choke is open even a little bit
>if you fully open the choke while it's idling it will stall after a few seconds
>if you open the choke then open the throttle it will rev up then stop running
>if you partially open the choke it will still idle and you can rev it as long and high as you want but actually going back down to idling is hit or miss
>if it stops running you can close the choke before the rpm gets too low and it will start firing again and you can repeat the little choke and throttle dance
>carb Bore is a little bit larger than stock and jet is larger, but actual intake port is still the same size as the stock carb bore

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No idea man

Girlfriends car wont start after shifting to park and shutting off. Will start if shut off in neutral. Just replaced the neutral safety switch with no success.

Here is a good thing to also mention; what it is you're working on

Most of my experience comes from 2 stroke outboards but you might be running lean, choking cuts off air supply so you get a richer mixture.

Those symptoms sound like you might have a clogged jet although it would help if you told us what exactly this engine is on.

push the clutch in

oh wait :^)

Sachs km914b 300cc snowmobile Wankel using a gx390 (390cc) carburetor. Runs on 2 stroke to lube the Apex seals.

well memed

get some wire and unplug the switch and splice it.

Thinking about it it could also possibly be a vacuum leak, if you don't develop enough airflow through the carb due to some being pulled in from a leaking gasket/etc the venturi effect on the jets won't be strong enough to pull the required amount of fuel, when you choke the engine the airflow is directed through a tiny slit directly over the jets which lets them pull enough fuel to start and keep the engine running, take that away and the mixture goes lean and you stall.

On top of this I've seen several outboards rev uncontrollably before stalling due to clogged fuel filters causing starvation which seems to match the symptoms you experience once you take off the choke, keep in mind that all of my experience comes with piston engines so I've got no idea how well that transfers over to Wankel engines.

What happens if you try to start a car without pushing the clutch in?

do you mean bypass? I will try that.

Nothing. Unless the neutral safety switch is bypassed and then it will start even in gear

i always disable the clutch switch on my cars. so much more convenient. i also never park in gear so i dont have to worry about jumping into a wall or another car

You also said the carb that's currently on there isn't the stock one, did you adjust the fuel/air mix screws?

ok ill check for leaks. i have a larger jet kit coming tomorrow anyway so if its airtight i can give that a shot

it has a mix screw and ive tried it all the way in and all the way out and everywhere inbetween and it doesnt seem to make a difference in the idle and revving

Do you know if the mix screw is on the idler jet or for the high speed jet? Some carbs will often only have one for idle, but most will have an additional high speed mix screw, most of what I can find online would indicate that there are low and high speed screws for your specific carb.

I forgot to mention that with the low speed jet if you turned it all the way in the engine probably wouldn't start, so I'd suspect you were turning the wrong one.

dont know, the only screw i can see is this one. i have a pin vise and tiny bits to drill out the idle jet if need be too.

Most cars don't require you to push the clutch in to turn them on. If it does, it just won't start unless you do.

Based off of a reverse image search that looks like it should be from a Honda GX series engine which should only have an idle screw.

So before you do anything permanent if you haven't I would give the carb a good cleaning, be sure to remove the idle screw completely and spray carb/brake cleaner into the idle jet in the body of the carb and see if it comes out in the hole for the idle screw, then do the same thing for the intake passage in the bowl, you just want to make sure it's not obstructed in any way, you also might want to mess around with the idle mix screw again just to be thorough.

If that doesn't work try putting some gas into a spray bottle or little tube and manually inducing that into the carb, you could also use starting fluid if you have that on hand, if the engine can run at idle while you do that than it's a fuel restriction and boring out the idle jet might help, barring that you may want to turn to some vintage smowmobile forums.

Wow I'm blind, I didn't notice you said the carb you were using

yeah a gx390 carb. i got it brand spankin new so its a fair assumption its clean with no blockages. ill try out that secondary fuel injection though.
ive tried signing up for 3 sled forums and every one had fucked up registration so i was more or less forced to ask here.

Will shifting low/early in a manual make your mpgs worse? Seems like my car is using a lot of gas, but it also has an occasional CEL for the evap system. That would also fuck my mpgs right?

Even from the factory I've had carbs that had crap in them, sure it's not varnish or gum but could be something like metal shavings or packing material left over from production, it shouldn't take much to check so it's worth a shot at least.

all right sounds good

I need something reliable that can do gravel roads and two feet of snow. Would like to spend less than $5k CAD. There's a jeep for $1200 that needs a new driveshaft. Should I do it?

So I went ahead and carb cleaned everything and took out the plastic spacer so it's the carb right up against the adapter and I noticed there's a little pathway on the back that leads to a hole in the back of the car that I don't know what it's for. If you look at the picture of the carburetor I posted on the right side, you can see the little channel that runs around the rear of the bore up into a small hole in the corner.
Either way, it's doing the same thing when you open the choke all the way but I did try spraying starter fluid when it dies and it will rev up again. this means that it's running lean correct?

Toothpaste isn't getting rid of the yellowness/blur.

What else can I do?

If the car is in gear, and the clutch is engaged, and there's no safety switch on the clutch, and you turn the starter motor, the car will move forward (or backwards, I guess). Some people do this on purpose in offroad vehicles for rock crawling.

On headlights? Follow this video. I did it and my headlights are 90% clear, after being almost 80% opaque. I wish I had taken pics.


Awesome news, turns out I'm retarded. So these engines came with port that was attached to a diaphragm unit to pump fuel or pressurize the carb or some shit idk. So what they did was drill through the housing into the combustion chamber and used I believe the compression phase to generate the pressure pulse. As you can imagine, with an 1/8" hole in the chamber on a 300cc engine you would be spitting out a fair bit of your air and compression. I went ahead and plugged it up and lo and behold it turns right over with the choke fully open. It doesn't even start with the choke closed now. It will idle just fine fully open but I have to close it about half way for it to rev otherwise it will stall telling me is still jetted too lean but like I said I have some larger Jets on the way. I also took out the idle jet and drilled it from the size of a sewing needle to 1mm with my pin vise and now the idle screw actually has an effect on the idle. It's always the shit out of left field you never expect.

You should never drill a jet.
They're not rated by the hole size but by the actual flow rate.
For a one-off its not as big of a deal, but in something like a multi-barreled carb its near impossible to balance them once they've been modified.

There's only one and if it fucked it up I can get another for a dollar or two. Oddly though no one sells larger or smaller ones or I would have gotten that too.

>itt: no one can into acronyms

best resource for identifying car parts?

Should I trade my '09 Corolla LE with 55k miles on it (my only car) for an '85 Supra with 100k miles on it

Where would I find the user manual for a 1948 Willys jeep like picrelated, is there an online resource for this kind of thing, or am I going to have to find a physical copy somewhere? If the latter is the case, where should I look first? My family owns one that I want to fix up but I can't get to it for a few months and there's no parts stores for hours where it's being kept.

I know nothing about cars - please be gentle.

I want to change my oil, but I only have one question: can you change from synthetic to conventional and vice versa as long as you are completing the normal procedure of draining all of the existing oil first? Thanks.

Every time I see the RX-8 mentioned, someone's saying not to buy it. Is the hate just a meme because people can't into rotary maintenance? Is it a decent car?

I want a fun RWD and the local choices within my price range are
- 92 miata with 70k miles, stock
- 04 RX-8 with 57k miles, stock
- 87 RX-7 with 163k miles, built for drifting
- 79 RX-7 with 70k miles, stripped interior and weird fuel cell thing, obviously set up for racing
- 79 Datsun 280ZX, unknown miles, paintjob but few if any mods
- 92 Mustang with a modded engine that has 8k miles on it
- several turd-gen firebirds and camaros of varying quality
- 2008 Charger R/T with 172k miles, stock

I don't really feel like inheriting somebody's unfinished project, so the RX8 seems like the best deal. It's the youngest so there's less rubber and shit that'll be a problem, it has the least miles of any of them, and it's still 40k miles away from the apex seals being an issue. I love the 280ZX but it could have bad rot underneath and unless it's been maintained by Dominic Toretto, its probably not reliable enough to DD. I know people here love the Miata and this one looks fairly unmolested but it's just so damn weak.

So, RX-8, actually a good choice or are there gremlins lurking under the hood?

A jeep is a beast in rough road conditions, but is terrible for everything else and can hardly reach highway speeds. Installing a new driveshaft is also going to be a lot of work, so be ready to put in extra time and money if you do go with that one. You can very likely find a much better example well within 5k.

No... Thats a retarded trade

What year is your car... Synthetic for newer vehicles is better in everyway

How much should I pay for a new clutch and change of transmission fluid on an 04 Pontiac Vibe? Also, is the supercharger worth it?

2010. It needs so be changed and I keep putting it off, and I'm just like fuck it, I should do it myself.

>only starts when choked
You are running too lean. Could also be a heat thing. But its most likely too lean.

I've just bought my first manual car and am learning to drive it

It's a 1984 Mercedes 190d, brilliant car but diesel and a bit easy to stall

any special tips for learning to drive given it's peculiar torque/revving properties?

in particular i'm having a bit of trouble just going from stopped into first, idle is around 800 rpm but very strong with the diesel, not sure where i should be releasing the clutch at, maybe 1500? higher/lower?


To start off with don't worry about over revving the engine to get going, you need to build confidence in your ability to get moving, usually 1500/2000 rpm is reasonable albeit on the high end, once you drive for a week or so you should just naturally work out the ideal throttle/clutch coordination it's not something you can easily describe it just comes with time.


i think i've been throwing myself for a loop because i've been trying to immediately time the acceleration/pedal movement with the clutch, rather than just revving at 1500-2k for a few seconds while feathering the clutch in

i guess i'm also just scared to break it somehow but it's probably more likely to cause damage by stalling by not having enough rpm than engaging the clutch slightly high

Yeah, I know this will illicit cringes from some people but at the end of the day the clutch is a wear item, you can prolong the lifespan of the clutch with good practice. but when your just starting off worry about getting started, speed and smoothness will come with time.

i just want to get a technique down that means i can consistently and safely drive in traffic

i want to drive smoothly and reduce wear obviously, but i just want to make sure i'm focusing on the right things to actually make sure i'll be moving ahaha

I know. I just needed someone to tell me that.

Buying a used car from a private seller in California. DMV states it's seller responsibility to smog vehicle before selling, any way to enforce them and stop people on craigslist saying it's the buyers responsible for smog?

Wait this is an actual shifting pattern? How?

Small claims court after the fact if it fails.

Anyone with a foxbody with 5 lug + disc brake conversion? How hard was it? Do you think its possible for someone with little experience but plenty of time? I was wanting to at least do a disc brake conversion but I figure most people do both at once. Is there any particular retailer/kit that you recommend? I have bought most of my parts from LMR and they seem good, but I have no experience with any of the other major foxbody part retailers

what exactly are synchros ?

Considering this question doesn't deserve a thread, does anyone have mrcummy's 5 mph spinout webm?

look here

Why does O hate boomers so much?


>rear right

This is from the perspective of sitting in the driver seat/ looking at the car from the back I assume?

Also, if replacing one, should I just do both?

Too lean. I could help you out more if you could tell me what it is that you're working on.

Also, if it has a carburetor, try finding your idle Air/Fuel screw and fiddling with it.

Maybe next time I'll actually read the thread.

Nevermind on this, the RX8 sold. I guess it really was a deal.

So I'm gonna go after this Miata for sale. It's a 1992, 70k miles, stored every winter "not a speck of rust" according to seller. Runs perfectly, inspected until the end of this month. The soft top is in great shape. He's getting rid of it because his wife's son needs somewhere to sit when they go places as a family. I googled the phone number and they own a couple businesses so I believe the previous claims could actually be true, he's probably got the money and responsibility to have maintained it well.

Assuming everything is fucking perfect as described, what is an appropriate price for this car? He put 3800. KBB says $2800 for excellent condition, but I know there's meme tax on these that KBB doesn't account for. I really want it so I don't want to low-ball too much and make him mad. I'm going to look at it Saturday because it's 3 hours away.

>guy just told me he has 4 people looking at it some time this week
>tfw more people know the meme than I realized
>it'll probably be gone by saturday
Life is suffering.

because they are exactly like br/o/s
>excessively opinionated
>think their shit is worth too much
>think they are great drivers when they are shit
>literally one wreck away from being permanent busriders
life is suffering, we hate ourselves and those that remind us of ourselves
learn to google summerfag

Boomers hold onto shit and let it rot in a patch of grass next to their driveway for decades, then when their wife finally cucks them into selling it because it's obvious the thing will never fucking drive again, they think they can charge the prices on the auto auction TV show.

We actually maintain our pieces of shit to be at least driveable.


I'm driving a 1998 Cherokee XJ, and I'm looking to start putting some money into it. First thought is a new cold air intake. Only concern is that I've read it can raise temps at lower speeds. Anyone have experience with these, like a k&n or airaid? Want to make sure it's worth the couple hundred.

Other than that, I want to up the low end torque on its 4.0L straight 6. What're some of the first things to look at upping?

t. noob

Thank you for the non sperg answer m8.
Ascending noice

Poorfag and Veeky Forums newfag here

I just got a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t at 142k miles.How reliable is it and how much can I expect to be throwing in to it? Common issues with it?

How soon should I rid myself of the Jetta? I'm thinking of saving up for a Toyota Celica or a Civic

just bought a manaul 2002 civic and have been practicing in my yard before i went out any

im easing off the clutch while i give it gas and ive been practicing on a paved hill in my backyard and what i have been doing is holding foot on brake and clutch, easing off clutch a little bit and then reving it a little and that seems to work

yesterday id either stall or spin tires but today of the 7-8 times i only stalled once and went up the hill only rolling back maybe 6 inches

is that good? am i doing the clutch right? giving it gas while im easing off it?

when i drive on the road ill be more careful about pulling out if cars are closer just in case i stall

Sounds like you've got the right idea. Don't let the clutch out with your foot on the brake, though, because if it gets to the point where it engages, it'll either stall the motor or mess up your clutch. I don't think there's any more advice I can give you other than remember to keep the balance between the gas and the clutch.

Forget about reducing wear because whatever you're trying to do to mitigate that is going to minimal in the long run anyway. The clutch is a wear n tear item and it's going to wear down.

My biggest advice, go slow with the clutch. 9/10 if you're stalling a lot learning to drive manual you're letting out the clutch too fast.

Try finding some flat empty space somewhere and see if you can get the car going with only the clutch and no gas.

so i was driving tonight and my cluster backlights all went out as well as my hvac control backlights. not too big an inconvenience as i can shift based on the engine sound and tell speed based on gear and engine sound and when i got back home i found that the fuse was blown
so i tried replacing it but when i tested it i found that the replacement also blew
i then remembered that you are supposed to disconnect the battery when fiddling with electrics
so i tried again with the battery out but as soon as i plugged the battery back in the fuse blew again.
what is causing this?
i don't know if its related but earlier today i noticed that half of the lights in the hvac controls were not lit. i don't know how long they were like that

it is a 1990 legacy if it matters
(yeah, that one)

You have a short, either the cluster is fucked or the wiring is bad.

>How soon should I rid myself of the Jetta?

A soon as possible. They're horrible cars.

is there anything i could check to make sure and what are my chances fixing it myself so i don't have to give money to the automotive jew? i don't know much about fixing electronics or cars

CAI don't do anything on a stock motor and in some cases causes more problems than it solves.

Use the couple of hundred on something else.

Anonymouse bitcoin debitcard!

I found it !


Narrowing down electrical gremlins is a massive bitch, you'll have to follow all the wiring that's associated with the cluster and anything else on that circuit to see where its touching or where the wire has melted. which means you're going to have pull the dash out and hvac panel to find it.

I would find a Subaru forum and see if this is common problem first, and if there's any weak links in the electrical system, otherwise you're going probably have to take it to a mechanic.

well fuck me. that sounds like a lot of work. ill probably have to figure out how to use a soldering iron too.

Looking at trucks because I'm tired of my weak SUV. Are Ford pickups reliable? I either hear that they're total shit or workhorses that will run for hundreds of thousands of miles. They seem to be cheaper than other trucks. Is there a good reason? I mean, I see tons of them every single day. They can't all be lemons, right?

I'm thinking of getting a Toyota Tundra, but I'd like to consider all my options.

The steeringwheel in my 940 starts to shake when i'm driving at 100 km/h, do i need a new allignment?

What does the WAT in WAT Racing development stand for?

It's either alignment, wheel balancing (which could be for a couple reasons), or tie rods.

Wheel balance can be thrown off for a bunch of reasons. Worn out tires, badly warped brake rotor, buckled wheel, hit a bump and lost a wheel weight, mud or shit in your wheel.

Most shops will check your alignment for free.

It's wordplay. WOT means wide open throttle. wat is from the ancient times of the internet. Combine to form WAT.

should I rather get a Mitsubishi Eclipse or a Toyota Celica as my first car? the early 90s models that is.

I don't think that its wheel balancing, because it doesn't oscillate and it shakes more like pic related

Atleast wheel weights

>otherwise you're going probably have to take it to a mechanic.
lol I had a local mechanic hunt an electrical gremlin in my project car in his spare time and it took him 8 months to find it. They aren't any better at it than we are. If anything, find an electrician.

I'm about to get my first car ever (Fiat One 2008) what should I know about it and some tips driving manual and this car in specific?

release the clutch at least at 2k every time if you never wanna stall a diesel


check the adjusters for the steering column it's probably not clicked into place correctly causing the shake.

Do you still have full steering motion when the car is still?

toyota over mitsubishi if you don't want cheap plastic shit if we're talking 90's interiors

not a meme, they just generally have shit emissions, have issues with rebuilds being frequent and they fall apart. they're not particularly bad cars but if you're gonna own one it'll be in the shop a bit if you thrash it

What are some physical symptoms of a bad cv joint while driving? I already know one of mine is bad but I'm wondering if these problems are coming from the bad joint.

>try to take off from stop light
>hit gas pedal
>nothing happens for a few seconds and then it finally starts revving up and moving

do you guys think it's because of the broken cv joint or is my transmission fucked too? how long can I drive until I ruin something really bad? I've got another car so it's not a huge problem

try adjusting your throttle cable if applicable
bad CV joints click when turning

Finally got a day off work and wanted to go for a little drive, but my timing belt and serpentine belt need to be replaced soon and I'm wondering if I should hold off on the drive until then. (Like a 3 hour round trip btw)

You answer the question by remembering that the circlejerk never ends.

WAT Automotive Technologies is WAT

>his wife's son
I can't tell who's trolling who, you or the seller.

Should I get an e46 as first car? I live in Albania so they cost less to buy and maintain. I heard they were solid compared to other bmws right?
How's this one?
looks a bit like whats the right word 'riced'? So im a bit worried I might look edgy.