/sqt/ Stupid Questioon Thread

>how do i get a cease and desist letter from the real WAT racing?
lurk moar

anything that isn't adjustable or made in china from pig iron, really

How to join WAT racing:

>buy/make WAT racing sticker
>slap it on your shitbox
>profit

>implying an autist will serve another group of autists a CaD for using "intellectual property" during a Lemons race
>implying user has enough money to do anything beyond resorting to shitty CaD scare tactics

I've seen this time and time again on Veeky Forums. No one owns the fucking rights to WAT racing, and the IP is worth so little that pursuing it will get you laughed out of a courtroom even if anons could afford legal representation

am i retarded for wanting something like this?
got my license not long ago and am looking for my first car. thought this would be good for spending a weekend away with my dog every now and then

If you are in high school or college and don't want to get laid ever again, or at least until you get rid of it, then sure go ahead. This ain't the 70's man.

well i never get laid anyway so im not really worried about that, i like how it looks

>well I never get laid anyway
>I like how this shitbox van looks
Found your problem right there.

well done sherlock
i dont mind, if someone isnt interested in me because of my taste in cars then so be it, its not for other people

Fedora tip, good sir!

people just throw the fedora meme around everywhere now dont they

>like something
>other people do not like thing
>get it anyway despite what others will think of it
>fedora

if you say so mate

whats Veeky Forums tink of this?
merrjep.al/Njoftimi/Shitet/Durrës/AUTOMJETE/Makina/BMW/Seri-3/320/Bmw-320CD--coupe-diesel-/4337453

How long would it take for the gt350 or gt350r to drop to like 40k used?
One day ill get my hands on that sweet 8250 v8

Looking for a car with decent gas mileage that won't get me killed if I get in an accident. Suggestions?

so uh my dad is getting old and drove right through his rear pads to the point of there being 0 pad on his back right (not sure if pad is left on the inner side). back left has no pad material and is well into the metal backing plate.

So can i just slap new pads in there technically? I believe he ordered new rotors too, but idk if he's willing to buy new calipers. Vehicle in question is a mid 00s nissan frontier

In the passenger seat with the top down

How severe is the wear on the caliper? You may be able to adjust it but it's probably gonna need to be replaced if it's been long enough.

>safe
volvo
>decent MPGs
turbo volvo or a honda

>I've seen this time and time again on Veeky Forums
>but i'm a tripfag so that means nothing

injectors get clogged up over time. you should be able to take the rail off the engine and do a spray test. i wouldn't even bother with it though. new injectors are cheap

i'm pretty sure Eibach sponsors some race teams. might want to check them out

judging by your question you're someone who can't do maintenance looking for a normie car. Veeky Forums doesn't know much about those but if you want to try then at least be more specific. how old and how expensive are you willing to get?

I'm going insane trying to figure what's the difference between shocks and struts. Are shocks meant to be used without the springs or something? How would that work?

shocks keep you from bouncing all over the road after you hit a bump. they don't carry any load nor do they support your car. removing them should have a small affect on ride height while stationary but leave the car undriveable
youtube.com/watch?v=6KTrklhCKAY&ab_channel=modifiedcarforums

removing struts on the other hand would leave the car sitting on it's front wheels. also rear if you have an awd that uses them

Are toe arms and toe links the same thing?

I need a set for my supercharged AW11 because one of the factory ones is bent. The guys at the shop said I needed a new toe arm but the only arm, link or rod I can find with toe in the name are toe links.

Car has a gen 4 3SGTE engine if that matters at all and a transmission from a 97 Japanese MR2 turbo

If you're really unsure and the toe links need to be replaced buy a whole new front suspension if you can afford it, they should make refresh kits available.

That way you won't have to have to fuck with any of it for several years.

It's the rear suspension, not the front.

I've been able to find rear toe links no problem for the rear but I just want to be sure that a toe arm and toe link are the same thing

I posted this photo in the Veeky Forums thread.

Does this LS400 look like a good buy?

So my brother wants a mitsubishi eclipse 3rd gen for his first car. I dont know much about mitsubishis reputation or the eclipse, would it be decent reliable shitboxing? What are problem areas to look for?

Crankwalk

Do autos (specifically CVTs) increase travel sickness? I'd never sat in a CVT car before but the Uber I got to a music festival a couple of days ago had one and the feel of it made me feel quite nauseous.

So I've managed to come across a Z31 and a Starion, both for around the same price. I'm aware that the Z31 is a bit on the heavy side and a bit on the underpowered side, and the same goes for the Starion. Which of these will let me live the Nakazato life? Does either have a "high performance" variant that's quicker than the normal versions?

>import a RHD GT-R

it's the only real option

So recently my Toyotas transmission shifter seal decided to disintegrate and fall down Into the transmission. The truck still shifts fine and all, but first and third gear don't seat all the way anymore, so as soon as theres no load on the drivetrain the trans pops out of gear. It will do it consistently in first and every once in a blue moon in third (although it's getting more and more frequent) 2nd, 4th and 5th are fine. What's the best way to unfucm this without dropping the trans? Got a guy interested in buying it tomorrow.

Seconded. If you love the car, rebuild that whole power train nigga (engine, transmission, and differential included).

No that's just the effects of being a degenerate.

What if it's frame is rusted to shit? How much is too much? Bare minimum the fucker needs a new cab mount.

>just a rubber seal
have you tried draining the fluid?
should have done this first before burning the rubber onto your gear teeth, probably why it's getting worse
>got a guy interested
tell him about it or KYS degenerate scum

Is this a "its gonna happen" issue or more "they are sorta susceptible to it"

What battery size does a chevy 350 small block take?

The car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans.

Please recommend me a smaller Crown Vic

asked in a previous thread but didnt really get an answer
03 celica, 6 speed manual
this is my first manual so im probably just an idiot, but it seems like my gears are really short. i thought 3k was my shift point, but ive seen some stuff onlnie saying my powerband is around 6k. if thats true im not even hitting it because i dont think ive ever gone above 4k. i can get to 6th on the highway and it seems like i top out at 65mph. i can push it and hit around 4k and get to 70, but it sounds like im straining the engine. in the morning ill try to push past 4k, but i dont think ill be able to. the previous owner put a competition clutch in, could that be limiting me? could they of messed something up when they did that? running out of gears and topping out at 65 doesnt seem right,

cnj.craigslist.org/cto/6107926830.html

How good does this look ?

You were told earlier that you're not winding the gears out.

If you're in 6th gear and under the power band the engine will not have enough torque in that gear to accelerate, it'll take forever.

Ideally you need to be at 65+ mph in 4th or 5th before shifting to 6th.

Read up on how gears work, and what leverage is, it'll give you an idea of what actually is happening.

How much does flooring the gas pedal affect mileage? My gas doesn't last because I have a severe lead foot. Partially because my Xterra has no power, partially because I like to speed when the depression hits. Ain't nothing like doubling the speed limit to take the pain away, if only momentarily.

Anyway, next question: if I get something with more horses and don't have to constantly floor it, will I get better mileage? Relatively speaking, of course.

blis respond
should i as first car

You could do worse.

Diesel is a little meh, but at least it's a manual. I say go for it.

>cnj.craigslist.org/cto/6107926830.html
Hey that's pretty go--
>NJ
>193,000 miles
NOPE

nice blog post, hope you get your shitbox impounded
>how does WOT affect fuel mileage?
hello summerfag
>will i get better mileage if I buy another vehicle?
An xterra is more than enough shitbox to kill yourself in br/o/

>
>If you are in high school or college and don't want to get laid ever again, or at least until you get rid of it, then sure go ahead. This ain't the 70's man.

Or if you're a closet pedophile and plan on kidnapping and raping kids in the near future

i hear that the chrysler conquest get's a better engine than the starion. dunno what name because europoor.

you're a burger right? do you have many starions and conquests in running condition over there?

>flooring the gas pedal
depends on some different variables, how rich/lean your system is, if a cylinder is fucked and the computer is directing more fuel to it for some reason, etc. but basically yes. if its an obd2 vehicle, which it probably is, you can get a plug in that tells you your real time mpg, roughly. so if you floor it from a stop itll say youre getting like 5mpg, but if you slowly take off, or coast at highway speeds, itll be higher. its not very useful for predicting gas usage, more of a deterrent. when you see that 2mpg show up and realize you just blew a few bucks in gas by flooring it youll consider not doing it again.

>more horses and don't have to constantly floor it
probably, if its a few years or more newer than your current vehicle itll probably get better mpgs just because its newer, and would hopefully have a decent bit less miles on it. lots of variables here too, weight differences between vehicles, engine size/displacement differences, etc. look up whatever you plan on buying and compare its average mpgs to your current one. if you get that obd2 mpg reader i mentioned that will provide a better estimate of your mpgs than google, as google's info is based off of just off the factory line specs. a 20+ year old car isnt going to get its factory estimated mpg's, especially if its beat to shit and not maintained right.
speaking of maintenance, do it. marvel mystery oil, fuel system cleaner, check your spark plugs and wires, ignition coil, distributor, etc. theres probably vids on youtube of people doing all of that to xterras. you might be able to get a noticeable difference in power/speed/mpgs

Should I tarbo my shitbox or just try to make the same horsepower NA? I'm in a money crunch but I want to go fast. I have just enough in my car fund to turbo it but I've never had a turbo'd car before.

Whats wrong with NJ

How badly will I need an alignment after installing coilovers in my NB Miata?

I already plan on getting it aligned regardless, it could use it, but will the coilovers/being a bit lower fuck with it bad enough that I can't drive it to the alignment shop?

Is getting the inside of a BRZ reupholstered with brown leather considered ricer faggotry? I'll do it anyways, I just want to know if Veeky Forums will laugh at me for it.

Should I get a Scion XB?

Nope.

y

American. Since it's an 80's car, there aren't many of them in the wild, but when they crop up they are fairly cheap. The Mitsubishi branded ones are rarer than the Chrysler ones.

I wouldn't drive more than 30 miles.

Are there any dash cams that just film and delete the old footage as they run out of room? I'm fine with needing an SD card. Possibly something in the "I won't be TOO upset if a nigger smashes my window to steal these" price range?

making more horse power N/A is more difficult and more expensive with longer downtime seeing as how youll have to rebuild the engine.

Turboing is cheaper but if you fuck it up you'll rebuilding it or at least putting a new head gasket on.

Optimally you'd do a rebuild with forged internals and reduced compression before turboing.

Yes most dedicated dash cams do that, but the trade off is that they only film in several minute increments, so getting one continuous video requires splicing it, if you ever need to.

I just want one that's always rolling and that I don't have to worry about. Any specific ones that are pretty okay? Preferably 1080p.

I have one from Rexing that worked decently, don't remember the model off the top of my head, think it was about $100. Only downside is that the adhesive that stuck the attachment mount to my windshield tended to let go on hot days but I may not have mounted it cleanly either. Haven't had the chance to re-mount it in my new car

How difficult is it to install a manual valve body on an automatic transmission? Seems like you just have to plug some valves and disconnect the modulator. It's a TH350.

what car is this and where can i get one?

I have 300$ garmin navigation+cam unit so I'm not really up to date on the lower cost ones.

Is this an acceptable catalytic converter fix?

not really no. they make RTV gasket maker for exhaust, use that.

It's a clogged cat, I'm trying to let some gas out before it hits, and I like the noise it makes

A clogged cat will kill an engine and to by pass it and make an exhaust leak under the cabin can kill you.

Just hollow it out.

how bad of an idea is it to drive on wheel bearings that are starting to squeak slightly for ~300 miles?

That is a completely custom vehicle, down to the frame, that superficially resembles a jeep wrangler. To get one, you'd have to build it yourself.
Is it possible to put the AWD drivetrain from a 2014+ Mazda CX-5 into a Mazda 3 from the same year?

are you sure its wheel bearings and not pads? Pads make noise when they get to the screamer tabs. Bearings typically groan in my experience, unless its a U joint.

i hear the squeak very intermittently while driving on normal roads, and the brakes don't seem to significantly contribute to the noise. there's a tiny bit of steering wheel vibration at speed, also. i haven't checked anything out really extensively yet since i just bought the car. it's a 2003 gs430 if that makes any difference.

Does the squeak stop abruptly when you apply the brake? Or is it not consistent enough in the first place to tell?

more of the latter, although it doesn't seem to sound as frequently under braking.

It could seriously be ANY part of the suspension. Maybe brakes.

A wheel bearing usually sounds like "whoosh whoosh whoosh whoosh" at medium-high speeds and the speed of the noise correlates directly to travel speed. Then when you slow down it's more of a grinding like a kid driving one of those plastic bigwheels on asphalt. It won't just squeak intermittently.

My life for hers, sounds like a fair trade

cheers, user. looks like i have some exploratory surgery to do.

I have BC, just expect to replace one or all of them in 3 years or so (luckily I'm going on 5, my friend had to replace 2 in a year though), especially if you keep them on maxed stiffness, Tiens are the same way. Pretty much anything in the $1000 area are like that sadly. There are more expensive brand coilovers, but you'll be upward of 3k for anything worthwhile (at least worthwhile in the sense of spending more than the 700-1200 range of cheap coilovers.) And in the end those will probably need to be replaced in a similar time frame.

The good thing is BC will usually just send you a brand new coilover if it fails within a year.

Anything wrong with getting this as my first manual?
Any problems to see with this purchase itself? a lot of stuff is a bit rusted internally.
dayton.craigslist.org/cto/6163829430.html

if you can afford another 2k in repairs/parts after you buy it, go for it.

Put the car on stands and use a pry bar to move bits of suspension and see what has play in it. Some things won't exhibit looseness unless you jack up the tire a little bit so it's like the car is resting on ground.

This and it may just be good idea overall to do a suspension refresh, if your unsure what the age of the suspension is.

no, but you could probs knock a few hundred off the price.

A119S. Look it up on Amazon. About $100, fairly discrete, capacitor based (avoid battery based ones, they don't handle high heat very well), handles high capacity SD cards and overwrites as it runs out of space. It just starts recording when your car starts and that's it. I've got one for each of my cars.

300 or maxima? any of those or a coupe altima/accord v6?

newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/6166171807.html

good buy? anything seem suspicious?

Maybe try and ask what kind of maintenance schedule it was on, verify if possible (receipts or anything). With 160k miles it's probably not a stellar upkeep, but nothing looks immediately out place.

Got some cleaner to get the varnish off the walls of the tank. It worked well, but now it's all pooled at the bottom of the tank. How the fuck would I go about getting this shit out?
Thought about shop vac, but I've read they can explode when handling volatile stuff, and an explosion proof one is way out of my price range.