Sup Veeky Forums. I want to build a small block Chevy, preferably getting everything from Summit Racing. I'm mainly concerned about part compatibility. Here's what I have:
You're in too deep to get an answer from Veeky Forums
Elijah Baker
Go get a running $500 engine from the scrapper or CL.
Nicholas Brooks
The purpose is to build an engine, not buy one. If I were to build a 2JZGTE, I'd blow $10k on it. On a SBC, everything listed plus some other parts is less than $4k shipped.
Jace Perez
See
Connor Hernandez
>If I were to build a 2JZGTE, I'd blow $10k on it and have a 1000 hp engine
Tyler Gomez
>and have a 1000 hp engine That's not worth $10k to me.
Caleb White
$500 used engine + $200 ring and bearing kit = $700
Hunter Martin
So build a 4k usd 2j that makes 350?
If you're concerned with cheapness and performance start going to swap meets to build your sbc, you'll have more fun, spend less, and make friends. Plus I guarantee your build will come out stronger.
Andrew Morgan
Assuming OP is American, There's no fucking way in hell you can match the hp/$ ratio of a small block. 2j's are extremely hard to find here in good condition. The "1000hp with more boost soopra" thing is a meme. Not to mention it's a long as fuck boat anchor that doesn't fit in anything.
William Wilson
Don't need Melling dg62c You do need an actual pump though.
For proper pushrod figment, they have an adjustable pushrod- bolt head on with old head gasket or sacrifice a new one, adjust the fake pushrod until you get proper rocker/valve action, measure and order the corresponding length. Choosing wrong means you'll grenade the valvetrain.
I'm guessing crank/cam bearings and core plugs are in there somewhere.
Sorry I don't have time to go through the list but I've had a long day at work.
Owen Morgan
>implying small blocks can make 1000 hp with stock internals
Cooper Fisher
hurr durr muh 2j, you watch too much fast and furious buddy, those aren't cheap, and once you get to 1000+hp you have to deal with a bynch of other shit
William Cruz
That's why I said to go with the sbc, but to build it from swap meets
>basic bolt ons >fuel and turbo upgrade also most people doing well planned actual "builds" on 2jzs upgrade the heads, head studs, cams, and bottom end
Ayden Butler
You can get a junkyard small block to 1000hp too. Both are going to be unreliable as fuck. The only difference is one costs $5k to build and the other $20k.
Chase Morales
>inb4 huge turbo dyno queen
Nathaniel Ramirez
Why? Just pull one already put together and go from there. Take a compression tester and make sure cylinders are within 5-10% and buy it for $200 dollarydoos or whatever your pull-it charges.
The SBC 350 came in everything there's no reason to build it from scratch unless you're running some exotic build.
Aiden Ward
Oh and why in gods name would you buy a block that's already bored over. The point of getting a new block is that it's 4.000 and you can bore it later when it wears down.
Ryder Howard
not with stock internals and basic bolt ons you don't need to do any of that aside of new valve spings and perhaps new cams
Benjamin White
maybe not a traditional small block but definitely a vortec or ls series engine as they have way stronger bottom ends
What? Vortec is literally a SBC with different heads and intake. 2 botl mains will do fine up to around 500hp, 4 bolts higher and splayed 4-bolts for max reliability.
So, technically a 2-bolt is best because you can get the caps splayed when you get it honed/decked.
Brayden Sanders
>Mr gasket 2017 asshole
Nolan Price
whatever is best is what is setup for a roller cam from the factory. saves money and you dont need fucking special snowflake oil.
my god i fucking hate stupid exotic ZDDP oil.
Adam Cox
Cool, I already posted one with stock internals
>mad and in denial
Caleb Ortiz
not all of them the vortec engines produced from 98 and up are still made of iron but have deep skirted y blocks like the ls series which strenghten their bottom ends
Joshua Anderson
cool you posted one that won't leave for nearly as long as the one i posted
Connor Miller
Junkyard 5.3's will make 1000hp somewhat reliably on the stock bottom end. There's many examples of these. A stressed 5.3l will be more reliable than a stressed 3l, That's just basic science.
John Hughes
Yeah, you only need ZDDP with tappets, and you can just use Rotella T4 conventional instead of using an additive with a regular oil. It costs a bit more but nothing crazy.
OP just needs to pull an 86+ block from a Camaro or Firebird, throw some aluminum heads on it and a decent cam. Carb for money savings, but definitely needs to stay away from TPI garbage. Just having the 1-piece RMS makes it worth it.
Angel Sanders
i'm not contesting that the 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 vortecs are excellent engines i was just stating that it has an ls based 6 bolt bottom end that is integrated into the block making it much stronger than a sbc
Mason Powell
Didn't know that about the skirts. Are they 6-bolt mains like the LS or a traditional 2/4?
Brandon Adams
6 bolt main caps on all of them 1998 and up i believe check out this guy and his colorado build for an assload of info about them youtube.com/user/denmah sloppymechanics.com
Joseph Stewart
really you guys should consider a roller cam is just better not because its got more potential, but its more reliable and trouble free. god knows oil isnt getting better. cam is more important than the bottom end. especially for street use
Parker Williams
Yeah I agree roller is better but the tappet in my engine is running great so unless I wipe out a lobe that's what's staying in it. It's also a 1970 block so I would have to go with dog-bones or whatever anyways.
Jeremiah Robinson
*citation needed*
Kayden Kelly
it also gives you a smoother idle
Zachary Morales
>veeate bois won't reply to this post because their veeate got cucked by a 4 cylinder honda with a blow dryer
Jacob Parker
ok then how long did the one you posted last? besides it's pointless if muh boost doesn't come on til 6000 rpm
Andrew Ross
or maybe because you were uselessly detracting from the discussion with your comical nearly /b/ tier shitposting and bait
Matthew Ortiz
But I want a rough idle. That's why I put in the current cam and straight pipes.
Jose Wilson
>it's pointless
how? 1000 hp 350 v8's don't have silky smooth power delivery either
Thomas Taylor
i mean you'll still get the 'v8 burble' if that's what your looking for
Jace Ramirez
>implying this detracts from the fact that a VEEATE got cucked by a lawnmower and a hair dryer
Ryder Ross
Depends on when where and how that 1000 comes in.
Easton Kelly
yeah but it's way sooner in the power band and 350 chebbys are an outdated meme anyway that haven't been made since 1992 unless you're one of those autists who thinks the ls and lt series are the same thing
Parker Rivera
hey now, i quite like hondas i mean they are great lightweight cars that can make awesome turbo builds to a point
i'm a v8 guy myself just because it's a fucklot easier to build and get more hp out of than a honda and cheaper too in my location but the muh veeatteee shilling boomers make me want a honda, b18 crx pls
Brody Barnes
The sad thing is usually the car the V8 is in weighs between 3,500-4,500 lbs and you can't just stick them in small cars (like civics) without shitloads of mods and possible dangerous modification of the unibody frame.
Hondas can weigh as much as ~2,400 lbs stock (for a civic), and as little as 1,900 with shit loads of stripping. (think of a metal box on wheels)
It's not about HP, it's about the HP to weight ratio.
Camden Lewis
yeah, i know the only light ones i can think of are s-10s which have horrid drag coefficient, foxbodies which are ugly imo and climbing in price and 60s pony cars, which boomers have a fucking grip of iron on, v8 ars can make more power to make up for it more cheaply though but that depends on location too
Charles Perez
In my area if you want a RWD V8 with a manual transmission your only options are: >certain utility trucks (lol) >a myriad of mustangs (can be found for under $7k for 1999-2004) >the odd charger or camaro >old corvettes with body damage and interior damage >rusted out shitheaps from the 50s/60s sitting in some boomers yard, $30k no low ballers I know what I got yada yada yada... >two or three expensive exotic cars
At this point I'm beginning to wonder if doing an EV swap would be a cheap option for a fast car considering two forklift motors strapped together can put out ungodly amounts of torque and are much simpler to build and you can get more HP out of them with better batteries and controllers.
A local forklift dealer of mine sells motors for $400-500 though I'm positive they will need to be rebuilt (just clean them out and replace bearings, they aren't complicated)
Hudson Myers
This.
OP, just buy a car that already has a sbc in it and go from there.
Noah Hernandez
>I'm mainly concerned about part compatibility Then your best bet is to find a long-block then use that as a base. You don't need everything right away, get it and build a bit, use that information to go with what you need next.
I'm more of a Mopar person but know Chevy, most of that shit will probably be alright.
Jeremiah Rivera
>The sad thing is usually the car the V8 is in weighs between 3,500-4,500 lbs Lets be honest here, most new cars today, even tiny 4 bangers are knocking on this weight anyway.
Dominic Walker
4 bolts have less material left in the block due to drilling of extra holes. Strongest is 2 bolt with a girdle.