Fram Filter

>headquarters in the US
basically Israeli

As a guy who works in a machine shop in the US, we let TONS of shit slide. It rarely comes back. We don't normally let anything horribly out of tolerance slip through but we'll give one or two pieces an extra 2-3 thou if needed.

well fug
did my oil change on the corolla 3000 miles ago with the fram extra guard

it won't die but I don't want to treat it too poorly

What's wrong with using the OEM recommended filter for your vehicle? Why do you feel the need to use a different brand? I can understand if the OEM filters are incredibly expensive for your particular car/truck but still

they don't have them at the local autoparts store, and I don't want to special order them from the dealer and wait for them to be delivered

what vehicle is this oil filter for?

As long as you change the oil every 5k miles or less, just about any filter will be fine.

Any filter that claims to be good for more than that is a meme.

...

>Not buying Ford Motorcraft filters

Literally the best constructed filters on the market.

youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7R-I

Sold retail auto parts for almost 10 years. Stocked Fram the whole time, with a few Motorcraft and K&N on the side. Never once had a first hand encounter of a filter (of any brand) failing.

Can't speak to the internals, but I remember always noticing that they were quite a bit heavier than the same Fram and K&N filters.

>are these filters fucking good or no
Fram nowadays is a good filter and is USA made. From from the mid-2000's was bad because it was made in China and those chinese factories did a bait-and-switch which wrecked Fram's reputation for a long time.

I use Fram Ultra filter because it has a metal mesh interleaved with the pleats of the filter. I have an "eco" car which starts and stops the engine a lot. Thus there is a lot of oil pressure pulses. The metal mesh gives the filters a lot of strength and resists blow through from pressure spikes.

Bosch or nothing plebs, the black can always wins

It's literally Fram™ tier dude.

I installed a Fram Extra Guard filter on my Crown Vic a few days ago because I didn't realize that I was out of Motorcraft filters. Motocraft filters for my car have an anti-drainback valve, which the Fram does not have. Plus, motorcraft filters are about the same price or cheaper depending on the source. I feel guilty as hell for installing the piece of shit Fram filter on my car. Just because of that, I might change the oil in 3,000 miles instead of 5,000.

NEVER BUY FRAM EXTRA GUARD FILTERS

I forgot to add, is it possible to switch the filter without losing a ton of oil? My filter is on the bottom of the engine, so I suppose the answer is an obvious no. Makes me wish I had a vehicle with the filter on the top.

frampa plz

Buy the Toyota filter especially if it's 1zz they too are $8 from the shop and not cardboard
>Bought a box for so cheap because the guy sold his Corolla

>changing your oil filter
>falling for the filter jew

They last at least 50k miles on newer cars using synthetic oil.

>using oil
>falling for the oil jew

the only thing you engine NEEDS to run is fuel, oil is optional.

No, they entrusted their own Chinese manufacturers to not cut corners.

Check out bobistheoilguy forums. They have reps that will send you a shipping label if they see something out of spec if you were to cut open your filter.

I've used a motorcraft filter for a v6 Taurus on a kohler lawnmower engine.

Motorcraft $5
Kohler OE $8

Also Donaldsen is the OEM of many Ford filters.

Easier for me just to avoid them. Plenty of competition out there to choose from.

it's like a $8 differential in whether you get a piece of shit filter like a fram vs having the piece of mind from using a wix or something similar.

stop being so jewish and show your motor some love

Drain oil, replace filter, and refill with captured oil or fresh if the thought bothers you enough.

Short answer: no

Why in gods name would you put used oil back in an engine when it's already out? Oil is like 20 dollars holy shit.

Fram a shit. Watch any video of people taking them apart. Buy a case of your OEM ones from the Amazon jew

How's STP? I care more about the material not failing and getting sucked into the engine more than "performance".

If you're really paranoid about it OP, just do another oil and filter change.

Because I put the oil in 3 days ago. I don't think it is worth buying $20 of new oil to replace 3 day old oil.

I will just leave the FRAM piece of shit in there. Lots of cars have FRAM filters installed and end up just fine.

>I will just leave the FRAM piece of shit in there.
It will be fine. Just don't do it again

>Having a vehicle that makes you worry about a mere 1k miles trip.
No thank you.

I'm not as worried about the filter material as I am the lack of an anti-drainback valve, which the Motorcraft filter has. I wanted to get the oil change done. I should have waited to get a Motorcraft filter.

the only oil you will use will be exactly what is in the filter.... replace the filter properly, fire up the car and then check levels. top off what's necessary.

Buy the fucking own filter. A pf47 and 4.7 quarts of 5w-30 every 3k kept my last LeSabre running until a truck rear ended and totaled it at 545k miles.

Own = OEM

fucking windows 10 thinks it's smarter than me

A GM product lasted 545k miles? What else did you have to do to it to get it to go that far?

5 transmissions and 3 engines later

You are mostly right. I just realized that the filter is mounted above the oil pan, but below the engine. This means that I shouldn't lose too much oil. I just ordered Motorcraft filters.

People that obsess over oil filter brands usually don't even know how to change their brake pads or see if their alternator is working. They just parrot shit they heard hoping it will make them sound smart.

Generally you can use any filter for normal driving just make sure you do regular oil changes.

>is it possible to switch the filter without losing a ton of oil?
The reason people let the oil drain out a bit before replacing the oil filter is so that after removing the oil filter, there isn't oil coming out of the oil filter location. That makes a huge mess due to the oil getting onto other things because of the filter location.

The reason you are supposed to change both the oil filter and engine oil at the same time is to have a cleaner and more efficient working system. By using new oil and an old filter, you are adding more resistance for the oil to move through the filter as it is older and the old oil is mixing with the new oil.

I said in an earlier post that I changed the oil 3 days ago.

That was a poor move to change the oil and then want to change the filter only a few days after. If you decide not to change it, I doubt it will be a problem, but expect the engine to lose a trivial amount of efficiency. If you are too paranoid about it, replace the filter and try to reclaim as much oil as possible inside of a clean pan.

Fuckin
Ruined
Another
Motor

Too many horror stories of element failures and/or splitting at the seam.

Pay a few extra bux for piece of mind.
WIX is my go-to

>OEM filters are incredibly expensive
Dude what? They're only a dollar more. If you buy them online.

Fram oil filters are apparently really REALLY bad. A lot of Ford 4.6l owners have reported engine starts sounding funny due to the FRAM filters causing a dry start. I have to get it out of my car so I can stop torturing my poor 20 year old engine.

A Motorcraft filter for my car (one of the most common Ford filters) is literally the same price on Amazon as the FRAM filter in the OP. FRAM makes complete shit products and relies on marketing and brand recognition for sales.

lol Ford owners blaming a filter for their objectively shitty cars

I was thinking about doing that with my John Deere mowers but was worried the size difference would cause problems.

Wix or Napa Gold only. Fram is garbage, take a look at a cutaway. I wouldn't put a fram on a lawnmower.

Original engine and transmission. Trans service every 30k. Routine maintenance. Only "expensive" repair was a burned valve on #5.

>Trans service every 30k
What do you have done to the transmission to prolong its life?

Personally I cut open a Fram Ph3614 and compared to an OEM honda filter. The paper filter material was about the same length plus or minus a 1cm. Both had anti-drain back valves which are just a rubber flap, it's the spring inside that's important but I'm not measuring spring rate.

Both filters were used so it's hard to guess the thickness of the paper but both appeared to have identical plies and did not have any tears or holes.

That being said I've heard on engines that have oil pressure surges at start up, such as GM's ecotec there is a possibility of the filter material being blown through by oil pressure.

>are these filters fucking good or not
Depends. People keep reposting old pictures that are no longer relevant. It's true that when Fram was made in China that they were shitty. But they moved production back to the USA where the assembly quality could be controlled.

And when you buy Fram, you have to be sure of the source. The chinese are still counterfeiting Fram filters due to Fram having production lines in china back in 2000s. Once you let them have access to your IP, they keep making more even when the contract has been cancelled. The chinese even print up the Fram boxes and make use of their Clinton treaty "Most Favored Nation" trading status. That lets chinese companies insert product into the USA distribution stream with a limit on inspections. Sure, that seems corrupt, but make enough donations to the then Clinton Foundation, and you'll get treaties signed all right.

>ITS THE ORANGE ONE NUMNUTS

>tfw briggs and stratton oil filters are actually not bad

Also if you want a cheap oil filter, Purolator honestly is pretty nice for $4. I usually stick to delco filters since they're cheap, and decent quality. Although they're switching everything to environmental shit now so I'll probably start using Mobil 1 filters

>It's true that when Fram was made in China that they were shitty. But they moved production back to the USA where the assembly quality could be controlled.
It doesn’t fucking matter if it's back in the us since Fram shot themselves in the foot by showing everyone they only care about profit by making sure the profit margins were more important than making sure a quality product was sold to customers. Now their reputation is forever tarnished by outsourcing and counterfeits making their way into the market.

It's the same reason toyota, honda and fucking Hyundai became reputable brands; they made sure they customers at least got functioning product that would last or had a warranty.

>Purolator
On the bobistheoilbuy (BITOG) forums, lots of people change their own oil. Some have a tool that even opens up oil filter cans easily. Unlike the other current brands, purolators had a surprising number of filters with blow through holes in the filter media. People on the forums contacted purolator but their customer service remains silent on the problem. Ignore the problem and the people go away when something more newsworthy appears.

>not using Puralator
Full pleb

Didn't know that, I've only ever ran purolator on my little 1.8 with 137K on the clock

Fram definitely has anti-drainback valves. Fram isn't 100% pure quality but they're not god awful like they used to be.

According to their website, only Fram's Ultra-Synthetic model has the anti drainback feature. Unfortunately it won't let me give a link of course. But it's easy to find.

Also Napa Gold is just a Wix filter to my knowledge

Choose which ever you can find cheaper. Anyone got any experience with Mobil 1 M series filters?

They feel high quality, and nice and chunky in the hand. I'd put one on my car if I couldn't get a Wix for some reason. My brother has a mobile filter on his car with the same oil as I put in mine, I'll get him to do an oil analysis once he changes it. Here's my last analysis, Castrol edge high mileage with a Wix XP.

does anyone have that screen shot of the dude that tests oil for a living going into the dealership?
very want ty

Exactly that. You have to get lucky, and not abuse it, and there were obviously a great many highway miles with little or no shifting, but I just took care of it.

>I don't own filter wrench.

No fucking excuse for using shitty filters.

The textured surface is actually worse. I used to stock filters and the frams would always have black shit all inside the box and in the filters from rubbing against the box in shipping while normal filters don't. I would avoid anything with the black shit like the plague, I don't want that shit in my engine.

Learn to read. I never said OEM filters are expensive. I said that I could understand why OP is reluctant to purchase an OEM filter if for whatever reason it's incredibly expensive for his vehicle. Which would surprise me because OEM filters for my honda and subaru are $10 and 6$ respectively.

Just buy the goddamn oem filter for your car online from amazon or another autopart place and be done with it. Jesus Christ

>MOOOOPURRRR

>no one doing research
>answers in plain sight
>getting this assmad over $8

>from amazon
The problem is that Amazon is full of chinese resellers. They even set up stocking warehouses on the USA side in order to have that USA address of course.

I can't say whether they're good or not, but my dad's Ranger has had nothing but FRAM filters and Trop Artic oil for the past 260,000 miles and counting.

Fram used to be shit, some people say they've gotten better but don't offer any real evidence either way. Rather than take the risk over a few dollars every 6 months I just buy Mobil1 filters.

Purolator PureONE

The evidence was posted on various forums, but you won't find it on Veeky Forums. Fram even invited various people from other forums to visit their testing facilities. They realized what a mistake it was to have chinese make the filters even though the processes were established. What happened was the usual chinese corruption.

Purolator filter media gets tear holes during use:

driveaccord.net/forums/45-fluid-dynamics/186258-filter-media-tears-purolator-filters.html

If you dont love your car then a fram filter is good enough.

>are these filters fucking good
There's actually very few non-chinese filter companies left after the various mergers. Fram is one of them. A lot of the filter brands out there are made just by a few companies.

You want wix

The same WIX air filter (identical part number) can vary a lot in its construction. I assume their oil filters can vary too.

Pictures of WIX showing differences of same filter model since WIX has plants in multiple countries including china:
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2584848

>everything is Mixed online holy shit
That's because you need to look at the dates the filters were examined. Things change all the time. The problem with Fram is that old horror stories from over 10 years ago are still hanging around.. Or people from 2017 repeat and repost the old story from 2007 as if it happened just yesterday, thus remaking and disguising the actual date.

Don't worry about the drain back valve, it's not like you are loading up your engine right on start up

If you regularly change your oil, then the filter will not be plugged up with sludge from oxidized oil and decomposed additives.

Is there anything wrong with Honda OEM filters? Or should I buy the K&N with the magnet?

Honda oem is made by fram but they seem to be of good quality. I wouldn't be opposed to putting one on my car but O'Reilly's is closer to me for a wix, which is just as good and not a fram.

Conveniently, my gen one CRX takes the same filter as an S2000, so I can use whatever fits that. Or so the Honda techs told me.

Put a magnet on it.

>Put a magnet on it.
Aren't there drain plug replacements that have a magnet?