didnt see one in the catalog
How to remove talcum powder residue from a plastic bumper? Just got a prepainted one in the mail and they put baby powder on it to prevent the paint from sticking to the packing material. After washing it there's still a white smeary residue. I've considered washing it again, then clay bar and polish but if there is an easier way that would be nice
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>How to remove talcum powder residue from a plastic bumper?
Use the plush side of a microfiber towel.
Otherwise, use your detailer spray because it probably has a slight amount of hydrocarbon solvent in it that would beat the surface tension resistance of the talc and allow it to be sucked off by a paper towel.
It's there is it's just misspelled
My muffler rusted off.
I know that the reduced back pressure from not having a muffler can hurt low-end but can I fuck my engine up driving it around for a while before I replace it?
What's this leak?
can you give us any less of a description to work with? What color is it? What was the texture, slimy, greasy, watery? What did it taste like, oil, sweet? Fuck. How are we supposed to help you if you can't help yourself
you can do much worse to your shitbox than ignoring your muffler. Your neighbors might not like you as much.
Smell? Color? If none to both water from ac?
Anyone here know what this plastic thing in front of my mirror is? I'min Australia if that's relevant.
If the headers are still on back pressure isn't anything to worry about.
Looks to be some type of sunshade the dealer provided perhaps.
Exhaust leaks that far back are pretty harmless, its when its almost at the headers themselves that cause problems.
Probably the electricals for the auto dimming Rearview mirror.
Surely that would be inside the mirror though, I've never seen another car with one of those and a black box as well. I've never even seen this black box in another car at all.
Thought the cord went into the mirror on closer inspection it doesn't
Usually the only other things at the top of the car are antenna's so that would be my other guess.
do you have built in nav? could be the antenna for that?
could be your shocks leaking.. could, but there's many other possibilities
That could be it actually, got navigation in the head unit.
Figures, didn't come up with I searched sqt and qtddtot or 'stupid questions' in the catalog
Is there anything I can watch/read that explains the benefits of driving a manual car and shows you how to take advantage of it (e.g. which gears fit which situation)?
Satellite radio maybe?
Need to go up a hill? Shift up.
Need to chill out on a flat? Shift down.
That's all there is to it, there's no 'rule'.
Exceptions are things like snow, where you'd want to start off in 2nd to avoid wheelspin easier or lowest gears for maintaining a constant speed in mud etc.
initial d
Explain the WAT Racing meme to me. What does WAT stand for?
WAT Automotive Technology
ayy
Damaged the rear end of my celica, fixed it with glue, anyone have some good ideas as to how I would go about making this look nicer or alternatively buy a new one? Only junk celica for sale in my area has been totalled and rolled over a few times so thats not a option.
It's how fags let other fags know theyre dtf
Anyone had experience dealing with brand new muscle car?
What's the name of the part of the car where the windows meet the doors, for the edges of the hood and proceed down the side of the car to the rear?
you'll want to replace the trim piece. Check CL and see if anyone is parting out a Celica. Repairing it wouldn't be too difficult but honestly a junkyard trim piece would be maybe $30... Supplies to sand, bond, repaint, finish, clearcoat and have it look passable would be more than $30, and then you're adding labor hours.
Just wait for one to pop up, if it's not ruining functionality then it's not urgent, and celicas are getting scrapped all the time.
What level tint should I put on my 14 year old beige econobox?
None. I will never understand why people tint their cars unless it's a limo or a mafia car or something along those lines.
Limo bruh
70%
b/c it's cool AF you drongo
If i want to source a lot of parts from a car w/o buying a donor car, how would one go about doing so? is there perhaps a good website?
1999 VW Beetle, 1.9 TDI, manuel, 120000 miles on the car.
I'm gonna go on an 8000 mile roadtrip on this ol' babe. Besides your standard general maintenance (for the bug this includes the fucking window electronics), the radiator has replaced.
Do any of you know if there is there a hidden German time bomb that will activate within this 8000 mile trip?
What part of this car might fall off on the road?
im terrible at haggling... so i thought about to ask the owner to write down his minimal price and i write down my maximum... if we pass each others we cut down in the middle and deal, if we dont i walk away. one round no fancy shit. how will i get fucked over?
It started raining and I immediately got under steer in the road. Just got my fukken car painted, how do I not rekk it? Just drive slow?
I'm looking into replacing the gearstick on my 2012 VW Up! because I hate the shape of it, but I've never looked into doing that before. Are all gearsticks compatible? Do they have different diameters?
I was considering getting that but I don't know what size hole it needs to be to clip onto the one in my car.
Can someone give me a quick rundown on a 1985 Mk2's?
Hey guys, engine whirring/whining is normal right?
>automatic cvt
The waistline I think you're talking about.
Yes, though typically its your transmission making those noises.
Is it loud?
How old are your tires, what do you drive?
Yes they're all different some are threaded some are not, you'll probably need to ask VW forum about it.
Just go learn to drive one, you'll figure all that out without having read much of anything.
I think I figured it out guys its a rain sensor.
Minimal 0
They usually unwind. Different manufacturers have different threads but if you search for a vw specific one you'll be fine
Avoid "universal" style ones that don't screw on and are held on by grub screws, they ALWAYS come loose and will annoy the shit out of you
Posts like this let you know who you're really posting with here.
>Ebay
>Local Junkyard/pick and pull
>Craigslist.
>Auto related Clubs on Facebook, there's usually a post accident part out on any given day on the ones I follow.
>Grammar, how does it fucking work?
Are you asking about the beltline, or pillars?
The PO is going to laugh his ass off at you and tell you to fuck off.
why would the other party give away his shitbox for free?
that would mean half of my offer, fine with me
why? im sure there are folks who hate haggling as much as i do
Is there a way to estimate what an aftermarket exhaust will sound like before buying and installing it? I know theres videos on youtube, but different cars and engines will have different exhaust notes even if they have the same exhaust kit on right?
How reliable are Nissan Maximas? I might get a '96 in a 5 speed so i want to know how reliable it will be as a DD.
Is it bad for the engine if I floor it and let the engine redline before changing from 1st to 2nd?
Not really. It's just noticeable. It's got 20k miles on it. Do i need to change out my tranny fluid?
Have any of you truckfags used a roll on bedliner before? Worth it?
What can Veeky Forums tell me about this bike? Got it for dirt cheap so I'm gonna get it working. All I know about it is it's some 1986 Yamaha 250cc bike, 2 stroke, not street legal in its current condition
Bigger and longer muffler/pipe deeper the sound, where the exhaust comes out whether it's pointed towards the ground or not makes a difference too
People haggle just because they feel like they're getting a good deal. If you don't want to haggle then just pay whatever the previous owner is asking
Typically no, but depends on the condition of your car and what rev limiter type you have.
Taking a look at a Forester XT tomorrow. Anything specific to look for?
Amateur fail driveway mechanic here;
So my roommate took her Focus to Canadian Tire to swap her winter tires over. I was there with her at the time and something felt ominous when she said "Yes" to the free 16 point inspection.
Fast forward about a week later (maybe not even) she says something feels weird about how her car is driving and that it's making a noise. But eventually I get around to jacking it up and pushing on the wheel that was the problem. It moved around in that 'Shot bearing' kind of way.
So I told her to park it for now otherwise she might cause thousands of dollars in damage. Today I finally got around to pulling the drum off to really see what the damage is. I noticed there was a dent from being pried off on the dust cap. I decided to reverse torque wrench it to see if it was on at the proper torque in the first place (I don't know if this is rendered extra inaccurate due to the bearing being shot)
But I dialed it up to 50 lbft to start. And with almost no effort (and no click) the retaining nut started turning right away.
When I pulled the drum off the rear seal on the bearing stayed on the spindle and the rollers all came spilling out onto my the driveway. If I had to surmise;
My guess is
>Be retarded part time technician
>Be told to check brake drum
>pry dust cover off and remove drum by taking axle nut off instead of using the bolts at the back like you're supposed to for such a job.
>Mechanic walks by. WTF you doing fampai put that back on and make sure you torque it to 173.
>Technician: DUDE WEED, LMAO
>Mechanic: okay you're clearly an idiot but I totally trust you to do it right without double checking your work.
>Technician puts bolt back on with impact gun and doesn't bother to torque it.
Was my method of checking to see if it was torqued proper conclusive? Also I checked the other wheel, the dust cover had no prying marks so I decided to leave pandoras box closed.
some drums will have the wheel bearing as part of that unit, whereas other designs have the drum separate from the wheel bearing.
The gigantic nut would be for preloading the bearing. sounds like the tech was unfamiliar with the particular set up and just tried to burp it back on but didn't give it enough oomph. I know torque specs for those are at LEAST 160 ft/lbs.
pic related
Also on further thinking I never did find the retainer clip for the bearing. So the idiot probably also didn't put the retaining clip back on which also helped the bearing fail.
Had a friend take my car to a mechanic, he tells me it had a dirty MAF and oxygen sensor, but the guy "cleaned them up" and the cars running better now. Thing is he probably only worked on them for a few minutes. Is it worth taking them out myself for a more thorough cleaning?
I checked my tranny fluid today and it was several inches past the notch in the dipstick. There were no bubbles in the fluid but my transmission has been acting up some recently. Last time the fluid was changed was years ago at the dealership. Did they seriously overfill it that much?
Cleaning a MAF is piss easy. Literally just pull it out and spray it with MAF cleaner. Do NOT use ANYTHING else, not even circuit cleaner.
Did see any VIN Check threads, can someone check YV1MW382152056848?
When exactly does a car qualify as "classic"?
I mean is it just your car is X years old therefore it is a classic car or are there other conditions?
its a mixture of transmission and engine fluid. whats weird is its leaking from the radiator
you better get rid of that car bro
Do the na Miatas have power steering
Other than clutchplate, what's the next thing to go on a manual transmission when someone's trying to learn stick?
As long as the leaking exhaust gases are not affecting anything else nearby then you can wait. But if you are idling, then the car is not moving and the hot gases rise up and cause local heating of that spot. Just be aware of that.
When there is a resurgence of love for it years after the last one rolled off the line, parts have become scarce, and a fan base develops an intense community in maintaining the existing ones.
> Also, Type-R is just a piece of shit
Mine does
Bumpin
Use a used car price and go from there. Lots of people ask many thousands more than what they have. If they do, walk away because it's not worth it.
when shifting into second, how do I prevent the car from bucking? New to manual if you couldn't tell
moar rpms
It traps shit in it so it always looks like shit and is hard to clean, if you don't sand it well enough prior to putting it on it'll chip off down to bare metal as well if you throw anything heavy back there. I just picked up a can of the spray on bed liner to touch up when that happens tho, took a couple hours to prep the bed and another to paint it, all in all I like it.
You're depressing the clutch too fast.
Edit:
You're lifting up the clutch too fast
thanks
but what if I want to go fast? do I have to wait for the clutch to smoothly engage, or is there another way? Do I wait for the rpms to drop to a certain point, then let the clutch out? 1st to 2nd is pretty steep
you dump it quick if you want to go fast. bucking is the car going faster than your body is accustomed to.
slow clutch release is smooth, fast is to go faster
is holding clutch down same as putting it in neutral
no. holding the clutch down puts pressure on the throwout bearing causing wear. It's good to stick it in neutral when stopped. It saves your legs too
When is Tesla developing an electric truck?
How difficult would it be to convert a gas truck into electric?
How many of you on Veeky Forums actually used a bicycle on sunny days and commute with the public transport (bus) on days when the weather is bad? I really like the low cost of this, biking also forces me to exercise a bit nearly daily.
>commute with the public transport (bus)
It's way too dangerous for me due to late hours. I can park the car at the Park&Ride parking lot to take the bus to/from work. But when I get back in the evening, the park&ride can have muggers.
if i worked and lived downtown i would.
Theoretically, you could just hook an electric motor up to the transmission, shove some batteries in and you'd have a working electric truck. There's a couple other parts, but it's a simple system. There's even kits for some cars. The problem is just the batteries. They take up space and they can be expensive.
Back when I was dating some woman who lived downtown here I would ride the bus to and from her place in the winter and bike there in the summer because parking down town is always lame.
Back before my health fell apart I would bike to work (about 10km away) in the summer all the time
Is licensed service at a dealer worth the time/cash or does it tend to be a fancy rip off?
Currently I've got a car that is approaching 150k miles and has some unidentifiable suspension knocking, and could use a real inspection instead of the regular yearly one.
I'm no mechanic myself (but I have experience with shit cars) and to date my preferred mechanic hasn't suggested anything is actually wrong with the car, but I'm hoping a real deal service trip might solve my issues.
They're mediocre. Oil leaks are common, water pump failures, premature failure of fuel injectors...
I don't like driving more than a couple miles if I don't have to, especially since I live in a dry, temperate area. I usually end up driving places anyway because almost nothing is within biking distance. PT sucks in my city, too, so I never use it
In most states you can get classic plates when it's 25 years old. Also sometimes emissions exempt at 25 years.
Mechanics are like doctors, you're welcome to a second opinion.
Also it helps to ask if the mechanic will go with you for a ride.
Are you lost?
Synchros probably. Well they last a long ass time but new drivers do way more wear on them than experienced drivers.
They generally all charge "book" hours. Which is software that tells them how long it takes to repair. If it takes longer or shorer, you still pay book (unless it takes longer due to other issues). The labor rate/hr and the knowledge of the mechanic is important. Many "shitty" looking shops have very good mechanics that have seen thousands of problems. Many dealerships also have this. Just find one you can trust. One that will SHOW YOU the problem so you can see it for yourself. And one that has a decent labor rate. We charge $110/hr for performance upgrade related stuff. And $85 for "normal" stuff.