Turn headlights on

I know right? I tightened those god damn bolts like 3 times and it just kept coming back, so I gave up.

>tap temp gauge

>temp reads almost overheating

>tap again

>temp reads normal.

>which one is it

>keep driving because popping the engine gives me excuse to swap a different motor in

bump

>use bluetooth radio transmitter to play tunes because old shitbox
>notice turbo-like whistling sound that comes on at around 3k RPM and goes up in pitch with the revs
>car is N/A
>assume it's a vacuum leak
>find nothing
>notice the whistling goes away when I turn the volume down

You mean owning a 90's VW?

>go around a corner
>wipers turn on

Your ignition coil is probably making some weird inductive loop that resonates on some harmonic of the frequency of the transmitter. One of those anti-EFI ferrite beads on the primary wire of your coil might help. Or it could grenade your engine, I don't really know.

80's BMW. Close enough.

I'd suck some dick for a Mark-I or II GTI though...

Sounds like Y'all need to stop driving VW's.

Bad ground dummy

This is an old as balls chevy pickup, not a fuckswagon.

I know that feel.
>AW11 Turn on headlights
>Voltage drops as they rise and light up
>turn on blinkers
>voltage goes from 10-12 until I turn them off
>brake
>voltage goes down until I stop

Alternator whine maybe, check this out: youtube.com/watch?v=jym7rftDTqE

>Hit 1/4 tank mark on fuel gauge
>Needle immediately drops to 1/8 and swings back and forth between 1/8 and the light coming on

>Press random on my music
>Starts with Aerosmith's greatest hits every time

>Pull door shut
>Handle comes off
>Tape handle into place
>Panel with the window and lock buttons starts popping loose

>Fill up with gas
>Check engine light comes on

>Get up to highway speed
>Rhythmic thumping sound from roof?

>start bike up, she has a third of a tank in her
>ride for a bit, fuel gauge shows half
>get to the petrol station, gauge shows a third again

You drive a 2.4 ecotec g6. Mine did that sometimes the radio stays on too

>fuel gauge does it's own thing, randomly dropping and jumping.
>the "_____ miles to empty" counter still works, so just use that instead.

I'm assuming it's the driver circuitry to the fuel gauge and not the actual level sensor itself.

>When hitting rough roads, or taking fast turns with less than 1/2 tank, I can hear the gas sloshing around the tank.

There are only baffles in the top 1/2 of the tank, and only stop fore-aft sloshing, not side-to-side. Gotta love Chrysler engineering.

>drive in rain, ABS light comes on despite car not having ABS

>CEL constantly on because the gas cap sensor is faulty, as it is on LITERALLY EVERY PT Cruiser.
Chrysler never acknowledged this, and the fix is just 'ignore the CEL unless it flashes'

nice worst car ever

Why are shitboxes and their problems so comfy?

>entire cluster sporadically dies
>odometer is almost never visible
>wipers used to run even when the car was completely off

> Fill up bike
> After 15 or so min of riding digital gauge shows almost empty
> Stop to check what is going on (Leaking fuel maybe?)
> Nothing wrong with bike and fuel tank is still loaded
> Start again and drive away
> MFW gauge shows full again

Why do they do this to us?

>riding along
>sudden power cut
>stop to see what's wrong
>shitty road shook the negative battery cable off
>put key in ignition
>ignition falls out
>shitty road shook the mounting bolts out

Nah, not the absolute worst. It's been reliable enough, it's roomy as all fuck, and it's pretty good in snow. Crap quality on non-essential bits, and some quite poor engineering compromises in some areas, but the engine and (manual) trans are fucking stout and that little 2.4 is very torquey. I've towed 3100 pounds with mine on several occasions, and it did so pretty damn well, given that it has only 150 hp.
I will say that the only way to remove the engine is a fucking pain. You need to lift the car, drop the transaxle, remove 99% of the front suspensions, then drop the engine out the bottom.

Early 2000s Chebby Aveos (actually Daewoos lol) are worse. The engines grenade at 30,000 mile intervals, it's like clockwork. 95hp+3395 pound car is a bad combo.
KDM version of the car only weighs like 2600 pounds. Fuckin' murican safety shit.

Fucking chevy aveos, Jesus Christ
My brother bought one when I still had my 1991 accord.
He got torched by a 20 year old sedan with rear drum brakes by several minutes on a 15 minute hoon

My GF is scared to take hers on the highway. It's /okay/ in suburb driving and it's better in the snow than her Town Car, which is the only reason that we keep the Aveo around.

g5, actually.

>not having a mechanical odometer
Do you even shitbox?

Having something that works perfectly has a lot of pressure. If everything is going right, something's always wrong, but you don't know what it is because to you, it looks like everything's working perfectly.

If shit's fucked up just enough, it's easier because you can look at and identify that it's a little fucked.

And if you really fuck it up, who cares? It's already fucked. Ding your door on a beat up 1992 Honda? Who gives a shit, it's already covered in peeling clear coat and rock chips. Ding your door on a 2017 Corvette? The world is fucking over.

>allow water to seep into engine bay

This kills the alternator

Hyosung, perchance?

Oh boy VW stories:
>be driving Jetta
>transmission clunks if I go from brake to gas too quickly
>2-3rd shift is slipping
>rains one day
>wipers don't work
>next day
>turn signals don't work, no dash indicators or anything
>next day, leaving school, have to hurry home and get ready for work
>car won't start
>guy parked in front of me let's me use his battery for a jump
>driving home like a madman, signal for lane change out of habit
>turn signal comes on, wipers start wiping

>>first to second snap
I hate that fucking feeling

>fuel trip display shows under 100km left until empty tank, analogue fuel gauge a bit under a quarter
>pull over and park (on flat ground)
>start back up again
>warning light comes on, along with a beep beep beep
>7km until empty, analogue fuel guage is sitting on E

Fucking Commodores.

>go over bump
>*squeak*

>turning the wheel left or right on odd surfaces produces a (very) sporadic audible "thunk" from the front axle
>approaching an incline at an odd angle produces a audible "thunk" from the rear axle. this one is repeatable

justXJthings.jpg

I think the front noise is just the track bar catching on something since it has coil spacers in the front. not sure what the rear noise is, but one of the rear fender flares is a little loose, so that might have something to do with it.

>rolling in first
>take foot off throttle
>car jerks back and forth like a toy

Run another ground from your battery to the car body with some heavy duty copper wire and some bots.

That is if your battery really isn't fucked.

Lol what year? My golf has been decent for 100k miles and 8 years old, except the squeaking clutch pedal, the taillight that goes out

> Jetta

There's your problem

Manual right? Why is that

This. Would like to know.

>Oil pressure gauge is dead
>wire was cut when the belt jumped from the water pump failing.
>Turn on right signal
>Its solid
>Switch turn signal really quickly
>It finally starts ticking
>the old dash clusters check engine light burned out from being on all the time
>driver side window wont seal up all the way

My miata does this

>bass hits
>tach needle jumps up and down
>temp gauge drops 1/3

07, had 180,000 on it when I sold it. was a real piece of shit but it was wheels, kinda miss her until I start counting the things that were broken or on the verge of breaking.

sprung clutch and dual mass flywheel (if newer than say mid 2000s)

>low on gas
>fuel gauge shows that the car is refueling while going downhill
>losing fuel at an alarming rate going uphill

>regenerative fueling

4th gen Taurus/Sable?

Weak earth?

>Radio dies and cant roll down windows
>Put AC on full blast
>Radio turns back on and I can roll down windows

>2001 dodge dually
>push in clutch
>radio turns off
>push the brakes
>headlights dim

I don't know what the fuck is wrong with that damn truck.

>apply brakes
>headlamps dim while braking

>digital mph gauge
>going 45
>speedo reads 0
>speedo works sometimes but not often

>rattle sound when idle
>goes away once in motion

you found the cheat code

>doing pickup job for my boss
>drive on shitty cali freeway
>drive over a somewhat rough or slanted piece of road
>car suddenly shifts to the right towards a car in the lane right next to me for half a second and then stops

2012 tundra
>hits bump radio goes black but music still playing.
>cant turn it up or down.
>another bump and it comes back to life.
>mfw. hasnt happened since

My car use to do that, you must not have power stering.

82 gs1100
>rest foot on rear brake
>all lights cut out
>close choke
>lights dim
I only found out about the rear brake riding at night

My Samurai had a similar problem, at idle it would rev around 2k, turning on anything, windshield wipers, fan, headlights etc would make it rev to 4k

>riding in friend's jetta, listening to radio
>notice we can't hear the radio anymore
>muffler fell off

>put shitbox in reverse
>deafening gunshot

>connect cars aux cord and charge phone at the same time a bunch of buzzing and interference comes on
>only if i charge my phone using my car, if i charge it using a powerbank with the aux in nothing happens

OP this happens on almost every single modern car but normies wont notice it

the draw on the system is spec to within a a reasonable amount of amperage for popping a fuse for that corresponding component/system

so that when an actual fluctuation occurs that could damage something, the fuse blows and protects the component

its basic circuit design

Your engine idle rpm goes down if you draw more current from the alternator

>SRS light comes on while I'm driving
>turn car off and on again when I get home
>lights are gone
They still show up occasionally

this. a whine coming from the speakers is almost always a grounding issue

>start car up
>blows black smoke for a good 30 seconds before it stops

>overtaking someone
>bring car up to redline
>blows a single giant puff of white smoke in the face of the person i'm overtaking

>idling at stoplight
>car misses regularly at idle
>vibrating like an dildo on the highest setting
>rear view mirror falls off at least once a day.

Sounds like coolant/oil and shit is getting into the cylinders, maybe a headgasket.

>lock door from inside
>shut door
>Force of door closing unlocks it again

>Sitting in traffic
>Check engine light comes on, entire car rocks back and forth

Never had major electrical issues like most of these, but
>buy first car, wasnt planning on it being my first, but when the owner opened the hood and turned it on i couldnt resist the call of muh v8
>exhaust snaps below passenger seat soon after, gives it a louder deeper note so i leave it
>drive it around town first day, dies if i brake more than a little. Cant say doing 60+ without the car on wasnt fun, scary as shit tho no power steering or brake assist.
>find a random switch under the wheel, put there by previous owner. Flick it a few times, nothing happens. Come back an hour later and it wont even turn over, 100% dead.
>find out that switch was for engine fan, wired directly to the battery. Flip it on and forget about it
>car keeps randomly not wanting to start, eventually realize the fan being on all the time was too much of a drain for the battery.
>one headlight shot straight up into the sky at a 45* angle from where it should be shooting
>almost die at least once one night during heavy rain because shitty 90s wipers that i didnt think to replace combined with no visibility from my shitty 1 working headlight

>front van doors dont lock from the outside
>need to get out then climb back in through the back to lock them
>pull the handle once to make sure its locked
>handle comes off

fuck this thing

>on highway on ramp
>downshift to 4th to accelerate because lolnopower in 5th
>wind out at WOT to 6000
>check engine light for misfire on 4
>engine is running fine, still pulling hard
>ignition system is brand new, less than 10k miles old (NGK double platinum plugs, OEM wires, and MSD coil pack)
>new OEM knock sensor too
It's gotta be a bad ground but I don't know where to start on looking for where all the engine grounds are.

Bulb is going out. Car got overnight cold and the metal in the bulb contracted enough to work again. Replace it anyway, they're $5 and it takes 2 minutes to change it.

Hazard flasher relay is bad, replace.
Check transmission fluid level and condition. If both are good then it's probably the 1-2 shift solenoid.

This, my 98 Legacy does that. It has a regular solid flywheel and sprung clutch though.

Coolant would be white smoke, oil is blue smoke. Black smoke is unburnt fuel.

You can't flip the lock switch with the door open?

...

oh its a mix of all 3. there's a coolant leak and oil leak, and its not burning the fuel cause it misses. I would fix it, but it'd be easier to just replace the engine.

>Turn on A/C at a stop
>car stalls
>turn on A/C while cruising
>belt squeals loudly, smell of burning rubber
>turn on heater
>smell of burning coolant
>turn on windscreen wipers
>catch on the windscreen frame and clunk loudly on the downstroke
>turn on headlamps
>have to turn them off and leave the car running for 10 minutes or else it won't start again
>use turn signal
>randomly blinks fast even though the bulbs are all good
>honk horn
>doesn't work

It's a Miata. Just fuck my shit up.

Adjust compressor clutch air gap
Replace heater core
Replace wipers with correct size wipers
Check alternator and wiring
Replace all bulbs and fuse, check brake lights too.
Tap the horn itself with the handle of a screwdriver a bunch while someone else holds the horn button. If that doesn't work, listen for the horn relay clicking when the horn button is pressed, if it doesn't then replace it.

>shift into reverse.
>grinds gear.

>drive in first through parking lot
>turn a little in any direction
> screech.
>takumi tier wheel screeching.

My friends mk5 gti
>It rains
>Something shorts and completely opens the sunroof
Live in Arizona so it hardly rains but just in case He keeps an improvised block off for it

>Go to turn ac blower on
>Shoots Sparks
>Turn ac controls to defrost before touching blower switch
> A random window switch will cause the entire dash and console to die
>Try to get with window switches to work
>Driver brake light dies

What is a ground loop?