Turbo or Supercharge BRZ

Thinking of buying one in the very near future. Only question is should I turbo it, supercharge it, or leave it stock?

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youtu.be/oLP-HCcX9as?t=462
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Are you flat-out retarded?

Drive on right side of road: turbo
Drive on left side: supercharge

Something about the steering column.

Yes.

Supercharge for a daily imo. Unless you do a tiny turbo it will take a bit to spool whereas a supercharger is linear in power delivery. The brz doesn't need much more power to be fun, it's mainly how the power is delivered.

These are so fucking gay. Out walking my dogs the other day and one these parked by the curb. I literally lol'd. Latina broad watering her flowers thought I was crazy, but I shut that whore up good when I stuck the garden hose up her twat. Now THAT'S wet!

Don't buy.

It's shitty as a grand tourer until around 300hp and some better tires.

Nameless long tube header and e85 tune.

>boxer 4
Swap, it's literally what it's made for. If you must keep the shit engine, biturbo or twinscroll, anything to get what little power the shitbox can make out of it. Superchargers are for engines that are actually decent, and are therefore useless because if you have enough low end torque for a supercharger the throttle response of NA is far superior. Unless you only care about straight line speed your engine should make enough power NA.

?

$6k for a turbo/super kit

or

$6k for a ls and swap kit.

turbo and supercharge it
was good enough for Lancia its good enough for the toyabru

SICK BRAH TOTALLY FUCKIN SICK

stock. All it needs is rubber and driver mod to be fast around the track.
If you want to do well in benchrace get a pink turbo to match your dildo you pussy ass bitch.

objectively wrong.

Turbo will help counteract the torque cliff that is the Toyobaru's main problem right now.

S/C will just make it fall off even harder at 3k.

>Turbo will help counteract the torque cliff that is the Toyobaru's main problem right now.
>t. my only experience in racing is when the bus driver tried to cut someone off

>get supercharger
>get headers back exhaust
>dip goes away
Much
more daily friendly

>I do not know what "turbo spooling" is: the post
this is expensive though. At that point you're almost better off swapping it.

OP is comparing FI. If he wanted swap ideas that's what he would've asked about.

Fix the nut behind the wheel.

A supercharger will be worse for long term reliability because the engine is always under boost.

aye. I feel like a S/C is wasted on the toyobaru engine though, it's either turbo or swap.

Most of the Toyobaru turbo kits are LHD only because of fitment of the downpipe. Steering column clearance is an issue for LHD cars.
>Unless you do a tiny turbo it will take a bit to spool
Bitch a 20g on the fa20 makes 10 psi before 3k rpms. a GTX2863 is at 10 PSI before 2.5k. At cruising RPMs there is minimal/zero lag from a reasonably sized turbo.
>biturbo or twinscroll...Superchargers are for engines that are actually decent...
You know nothing, stop talking.
>$6k for a ls and swap kit.
The most budget-minded individual in the universe did a full-DIY hack job LS swap with no kit parts and many used / junkyard parts and still spend 10K (net, after deducting the sale price of the stock engine and trans) just to get it rolling under its own power. Don't kid yourself an LS swap is a $15K project, minimum, and that's if you DIY.
>S/C will just make it fall off even harder at 3k.
That's not true of any available S/C kit for the Toyobaru, even on completely stock exhaust.
Dip goes away anyway, you don't have to touch the fucking exhaust.
This. Listen to this guy.
Headers and tuning make it a wonderfully enjoyable car, without having to deal with the reliability issues of forced induction on a car that wasn't designed for it.
If you simply *must* add power via FI, oil cooling becomes a priority even on the street.
JDL and PTuning make two of the best turbo kits. Ptuning is pricey.
Edelbrock (roots), Sprintex (twin screw), and JRSC (contrifugal) for superchargers.
Avoid like the plague: Speed By Design, Greddy, Vortech, Visconti, Delicious Tuning. Avoid mass-produced turbo kits without warranty or support. AVO is the only mass-produced kit that has readily available replacements for major kit components such as exhaust manifolds.
Don't buy any exhaust component without a warranty. Avoid Borla, FT86SpeedFactory, PLM, and all the "JDM" (no warranty) exhaust.

This isn't fucking true. All positive displacement superchargers have bypass / recirc valves to reduce blower stress at high vacuum. Even centrifugal blowers have a DV / BOV in the charge piping... It's necessary to prevent compressor stall.

Most of the best, most competitive mild track setups on Toyobarus are supercharged.

if your gonna pick one than the turbo is a safer bet, but if you do decide to s/c do not procharge
it's shit for a car like the brz

What's your issue with delicious tuning? Isn't that what you need for possible or future FI tuning? Only other option is OFT but that's said to be for bolt ons

>flat
ehehe

You should buy an E46 instead.

You mispelled 350z

>350z

Jesus christ

Ah, forgot to mention don't waste money on OFT.
Delicious tuning will just give you a canned ECUTEK tune, they're just another ECUTEK vendor. That, but the tuning is locked up and doesn't allow editing. Their post-purchase support is dismal, they won't refine your tuning at all, and their low load and part-throttle turbo tuning is fucking terrible because it's primitive speed/density tuning when there's a perfectly good MAF in the system.
Other options are other ECUTEK tuners, or get a MoTeC. VitViper does an excellent job on both ECUTEK and MoTeC, just as an example.

Both are pigfat.
That's the appeal of the Toyobaru. It isn't a pigfat monstrosity.

But is delicious tuning fine for just clearing UEL cel and staying NA? Or should I seek other tuner for actual ECUTEK tune?

>i want to spew oil onto every manifold

>Don't kid yourself an LS swap is a $15K project

Under 10k if you got extra parts laying around. Slightly more if you go with a complete kit from WGP or whatever. Still gives you more room to upgrade compared to the weak 2.0.

Indeed they are bigg, just letting him know his bimmer a shit
Wouldn't bother with an early 350, you're supposed to go for the 2007+ with low miles for cheap. You going to spend a fuckton on an M3 with over 150k miles and in need of expensive repairs

Yeah, they'll do fine on a simple setup.
Even on SC setups, they're good for the most part.
It's mainly Turbos.
Just when you get Turbo + VVT + DBW = get an experienced tuner on-site into the fucking car with a laptop.

I like the Vortech finish but it's a shame it's over priced as fuck guess edelbrock or cosworth is the right answer, turbos seem like alot of expensive work and problems to deal with.

I was there for that thread. That's the one I referenced in my post.
That is only a partial list, and that's before he blew up his T56...
>WGP kit.
Ah yes, so you can wait 6 months for them to fail to deliver the promised parts, have the parts they do deliver fail to fit, and have no real ECU solution... And resort to suing them when their "Complete conversion wiring" is a FedEx box with 5 wires in it and a bullshit email full of empty promises.
This argument has been had before.
The 2.0 isn't as weak as people give it shit for being... Yes an LS swap is a better engine and drivetrain, yes the added weight is miniscule, but the fact is it's more expensive and complicated than every forced induction option by orders of magnitude.

Cosworth is overpriced as well.
Edelbrock is good, and CARB legal if you keep the exhaust stock and use their tune, but a little more expensive than the Sprintex kit... Sprintex does well for daily.
The Vortech kits have had numerous quality control issues, on top of the price.

>Indeed they are bigg, just letting him know his bimmer a shit
Then we are in complete agreement.

Thanks for the info, and lastly some quick thoughts on the Jackson racing supercharger? Similar to Vortech it seems alot cheaper too

Many people use the JRSC on-track with no issues.
CounterSpace Garage have more firsthand knowledge and experience regarding the JRSC than anyone else.

Thanks goodman

toyobaru-fag detected

>stock. All it needs is rubber and driver mod to overheat the oil and blow the engine on track.
Fixed that for ya.

Do you value the instant responce of the naturally aspirated engine? Then go super charger.
If you want more power but arent going to mind having a lag between the throttle and the extra power then go turbo

LS swap

I swapped cum with your mother

Me too. Sloppy.

>14k for a swap
>when a 700 dollar nitrous kit and 3k in pistons and rods
anything but this OP

>>when a 700 dollar nitrous kit and 3k in pistons and rods give you the same result*

>600 dollar pigfat truck engine

lol

So assblasted he had to abandon his cancerous name

>assmad GM fangirl can't arguee againts my post

sorry, LS swaps are a waste of time and money

stay BTFO

>not swapping cum with his father

Implying I'm the one you were replying to, makes me kek seeing you get riled up because mods blew you the fuck out

>Mods
>BTFO out of anyone

Nope, going user was the best decision, namefagged for long enough so that people remember me, now as user I can shitpost all I want and mods have no clue who I am

Plus evading bans takes me a minute

I think getting laid would be your best decision

I dont like sex that much, Imrather have a BDSM session desu senpai

Sadly the local dungeon closed

Do not take your sexual frustrations out on us senpai

Im not?

Whats even the highest you can reliably tune the car NA? Anything close to 250?
Because that seems like the best and most balanced option.

FRS owner here. I went with the OFT combo kit. I have OFT E85 tune, OFT UEL headers, perrin pulleys, invidia front pipe, and perrin 2.5 cat back. My max dyno was 208. The dip is gone. If I could go back I'd go straight for the Speed by design turbo kit. It feels good NA but obviously a turbo would be better.

How many miles with all that shit done, I've heard horror stories of people blowing those engines at the cost of E85. Maybe just bad tunes, who knows

27k with the mods. I drive it pretty hard and nothing has gone wrong. On the ft86 forums people have gone way over 100k only running e85. The only weak part of the FA20 is the rods. Saving for a turbo kit now. I keep find shit to waste money on some how.

Have you changed out the OEM transmission fluid? Should be first mod anyone does, made shifting so much smoother just slipping into gear as it should instead of the ugly resistance

When did you get your graduation present?

on the stock fr-s engine I wouldn't go further than a low boost supercharger, with a good tune on it + running high octane, no more than 50-60hp extra.
I think japfags run these at like 300hp or so with turbos but it won't take long to blow itself to pieces.

2nd or 3rd time I see you post this today, do you need help?

Yes he needs help, his buspass expires soon

Or if you feel like spending upwards of 10k, get a block from Crawford & an EFR 7163, make full boost around 3k and 500hp.

The GT86 should have a wing from factory. That shit's cool.

Sounds like alot of problems and headaches, 300-350whp out of a supercharger is all you really need on this great chassis

Super chargers only really work at low rpm with actual torque behind it.

It'd work far better with a turbo

Why would you buy one of these then buy more parts and shit to make it as fast as a wrx which is about the same price as a brz?

Ye, was just putting it out there. If the block itself can handle it, then 300-400hp is a good figure, with internal work done & good tuning. It's something I'd definitely go for.
With shorter gearing, it would probably be a rocket.

Because one is heavy and AWD, the other is light and RWD

This

3200lbs is average for a sedan

>My max dyno was 208
That's believablie with E85
>Whats even the highest you can reliably tune the car NA?
200 WHP on the stock engine with exhaust mods, 210ish +/- with E85. Anybody who tells you any more than that is lying or making hero runs on the dyno.
There's stroker / cams out there, but expensive and untested so far.
Flex fuel is perfectly safe on these engines.
Avoid John Visconti unless you want pic related to happen. It's an old joke but the serious point is, make sure you use widely-used, well-reviewed kits with good post-purchase support.
>pigfat truck motor
He didn't use the iron 4.8 block in the swap. It was a parts motor. You shut the fuck up. That user should a god damn Veeky Forums folk hero for what he did to that car.
The stock engine is stronger than people give it credit for. You can hang in the low 300's (whp) range forever and have no issues. The good Superchargers will make 280 or more with good exhaust at 7 - 10 PSI.

3200 is actually light for a sedan. however, it's alot haver than 2700 pounds

The BRZ cannot hold enough tire for 400hp.
Wanna know why Mustangs are crowd seeking missiles, aside from dumbass drivers? Lack of sufficient rubber out back...

How much torque is the trap rated for?

Which is why it was designed with a 200hp engine :^)

>Crawford
Fuck Crawford. They're literally the worst in the business. And fuck YouTube for giving Crawford a free pass to be a complete fuckup forever.
The transmission likes to grenade on the street beyond 400 if treated rough. On the track, with a cooler, the transmission is unreliable at 350.

What's wrong with crawford?

>Which is why it was designed with a 200hp engine :^)

Exactly, but everyone seems hellbent on boosting the fuck out of it. Nothing better than ill thought out mods without the required supporting upgrades to make it safe and effective. And theres more to "safe" than "Durrrr will it hold boost?"

How wide of a wheel and tire can you get on the back of a BRZ without having to hack shit up?

I did that at 10k miles and replaced it with redline. The redline feels notchy do I'm gonna try Motul. Has 33k miles now.
It can push 350 without issues. I've seen more problems on super charged FA20s than turbo ones.

>The BRZ cannot hold enough tire for 400hp.
Fuck off, a 17x9.5 +50 wheel will fit under the stock fender. If you can't hook 400hp with a big soupy tire on that you shouldn't drive. ...Like a 245/40-17...
It's overkill anyway. You can hook up 400hp on the street on 225's...
>How much torque is the trap rated for?
clarify?

Zero post-purchase support. Zero warranty. Points fingers at tuners and owners after building a shit engine that blows up on the dyno. Can't even get their own shop car running right. Once you've handed over your shekels, don't expect them to answer the phone for you.
Oh, and like many aftermarket vendors, they take advantage of people's lack of knowledge to upsell them parts they don't need.

>E85

Wish we had that shit in Canada, the highest we have is Petro 94. Just installed and tuned an ACE CS/400 header.

youtu.be/oLP-HCcX9as?t=462

Lmao I forgot about this.

>Send your car off to /drive for promo
>The engine starts fucking up

How

7:40 btw, don't know why it didn't link the time.

Like a boss

I wanted an ACE header before I found the OFT. What are the numbers like?

The problem is that video has given them a free and endless supply of new, naive customers to take advantage of before they know better...
Crawford would have died on the vine a long time ago if Matt Farah had never driven their shit car.
They're starting to die, slowly... It's about damn time.
They finally took down that ridiculous homepage brag / shill about how they built the car for Gymkhana Two after people figured out that there are fucking NINE of them now and there's a reason the team abandoned them after only two. They still sell the exhaust tho...
>Just installed and tuned an ACE CS/400 header
ACE does a fucking awesome job.

>That user should a god damn Veeky Forums folk hero for what he did to that car.
The thing is all the butthurt slow BRZ owners like you replied too hate him because his car is no longer slower than a minivan.

Ok kid. Keep telling yourself that.

I've got 305/30 19s I can spin in 3 gears. Good luck with your bicycle tires.

In a straight line? Get better tires

Aw, maaaaaan shiiieeeeeeet why I spin muh wheels when I got no fukkin sidewall...
Why cain't I hook on muh 19's? Maybe I need some of dem dubs...
You stupid fucking idiot. Every inch of wheel diameter beyond the minimum required for brake clearance is a waste. You can't hook up because your tires have no sidewall. Just because you have no idea how to set up a car, doesn't make my point any less valid.
I bet that's a stock 19x10 Corvette wheel. Fag.