QUESTIONS THAT DONT DESERVE THEIR OWN THREAD - QTDDTOT

well fuck. guess ill just make a seperate plate with only the vin and put it next to it. honestly will probably never sell it anyway so it was just for my own personal tastes.

And before somebody comments on the rust, I probably live much farther north than you, so that's expected from any used car, let alone one from the 80s.

actual head, or head gasket
either way just do it yourself. co ownership is dumb an

>posted before i was done
dumb and only complicates things further down the line if you plan to sell and he moves away or if you have a falling out and get into a husband and wife style legal fight over who owns it

Sorry, head gasket.

I can't imagine for $500 we'd have much of a falling out. The plan is basically
>fix gasket
>the three of us destroy tires
>get new ones
>????
>tree

They're also longtime hooning buddies, if we want to sell it, I'll probably just pay one of them $250, and the other for his parts and labor at his usual rate.

I really won't be that annoyed if the car is wrecked, or I get screwed by my friends. I've spent $250 on worse. I'm more concerned whether $500 is a fair price for an '85 MR2 with a blown gasket.

seems fine to me

Thanks for the input

What's some good instrumental Eurobeat for driving and drifting?

Supercharged or turboed CRZ with the 6 speed manual. Some have a button that increases acceleration for 5s, but I just read that off wikipedia this morning.
youtube.com/watch?v=MbnlN2iJiJA

The VIN is stamped into the headtube on those Hondas (actually all Jap dirtbikes and motorcycles I've come aross are this way) you don't need that plate.

>the germans design their cars to fail out of warranty?
Are they really so bad or is this just a meme?
That makes it sound like Japan is the only place worth buying from just because the others are effectively shit.

Not him but coming from a BMW owner, the Germans do exactly that, they have critical parts fail usually after the first two years, they know most of their customers will only lease their shit and not care about longevity, and they'll still make money off the used car buyers who think they're upgrading from joe blow shitbox, who now need parts to fix their newish Luxury car.

Repostan from last thread

will having the downstream o2 sensor disconnected affect whether or not my truck goes into closed loop mode? trying to isolate which sensor is fucked up on my 98 jeep Cherokee 4.0. on a cold start it runs fine, but as soon as it gets up to temp and goes into closed loop it starts stumbling badly and bucking around and it barely holds an idle. if I disconnect the upstream o2 sensor (forcing it to run in open loop) it runs fine, however my gas mileage is abysmal. before I unleash the parts cannon I just want to know it there's a better way of narrowing it down. the trucks had exhaust work done and there's no catalytic converter so the rear o2 sensor (now disconnected) was just dangling above the muffler. should also mention that until I disconnected the upstream o2 sensor and went for a full drive cycle there was no DTC.

Downstream O2's are typically only there to test for emissions, they have nothing to do with actual fuel trim.

What year BMW do/did you own?
I had the thought of getting a newer BMW or something along those lines, but the idea that manufacturers go out of their way to have cars fail seems sketchy as fuck.

When I do a coolant flush on my 2009 Chrysler Town and Country, do I need to use any kind of chemical treatment? Browsing the internet, I'm finding claims that it's not necessary or even harmful in modern vehicles and I should just use water, or that it's still necessary in modern vehicles.

An user told me
>Unless you have known rust or scale in your coolant (IE your coolant is brown not green) then no you should need to use any treatment
and my coolant is kind of orange-ish.

I have a 1KR-FE with forged internals, the redline is 6400rpm stock, the stroke is 84mm and average piston speed therefore 18m/s.
I want some more power and rpm, I can get a head for 60€ and port it myself, I can build a new set of intake-runners myself.
Are like 100hp and 8000rpm possible?
What else do I need to change and where could I get better camshafts and a aftermarket ECU?
How is the legal situation?

Are you the retard who thought his mom's minivan was a race car and kept shifting it from Drive to Neutral at speed?

Do humanity a favor and drink that coolant you drain out of the van

I have an 03 540i and a 88 325i, even from the early 00's models there's shit you see on them you know they could just as easily have remedied by using quality OEM from the the get go instead of cheaping out on whats supposed to be a luxury car; namely the cooling systems on these cars are horrible, I went through two Oem Behr radiators in the first 6 months of owning the car, before putting money down on a full aluminum Zionsville aftermarket.

They're designed well and could be bullet proof cars but its obvious what they were intending with the shit quality on key parts. The Up side is that if you do your own labor, the parts are not that much more expensive than a similar era US or Jap car, but if you can't work on them then you'll be forced to pay out the ass.

There's more to redline than piston speed.
Valvetrain will be limiting.
Nobody makes cams for the 1KR.
If you were willing to do a hack job, you could regrind the base circle for more lift and duration. Any machine shop that does cams should be able to do it.
Then it's just a matter of a re-shim and better springs.
8000 RPM is well within the believable range. for 84mm stroke.
Have someone make you adjustable cam gears becuase you're gonna have to change the LSA when you do the regrind... That, and either lock out the VVT or recheck P-V at full advance.

It's my own minivan and it self-identifies as a race car, but yes, I am the retard.

>There's more to redline than piston speed.
>Valvetrain will be limiting.
Since it has a non selfadjusting bucket type DOHC valvetrain, harder springs should eliminate valve float.
>Nobody makes cams for the 1KR.
Thank you.
>If you were willing to do a hack job, you could regrind the base circle for more lift and duration. Any machine shop that does cams should be able to do it.
I can´t adjust the valve clearance enough to regrind the camshafts, I need more material on the cams.
>Then it's just a matter of a re-shim and better springs.
There are no shims in this engine.
>8000 RPM is well within the believable range. for 84mm stroke.
The F20C has the same stroke and does 9200rpm, but it also has MoS2 coated pistons.
>Have someone make you adjustable cam gears becuase you're gonna have to change the LSA when you do the regrind... That, and either lock out the VVT or recheck P-V at full advance.
That could get complicated in a engine that small, but I know how I could get them.

The questions you're asking far surpass the general knowledge of Veeky Forums.
Half of them have never read the words 'flow' and 'bench' in the same sentence. The other half, such as myself, have never seen one.

I know that this engine is quite choked due to its long stroke, but a bit more power should be possible.
Sadly I am not able to measure most of this stuff with such professional tools.

I am just a engineering student that wants more power in his shitbox toyota.

Maybe I could 3-D print one cylinder of the head, put a centrifugal air pump behind it, regulate the air pressure manualy and measure the flow with a air flow meter from another car/bike.

That would give me prototyping capabilities and a crude flow bench.
It would be pretty crude, but should work for testing purpose.
pic related

I have a scangauge hooked up to my truck and it always shows 'not ready' in scan mode. It's always passed emissions but I'm concerned it won't this year. Could the gauge itself be causing that? Where should I start looking? It occasionally throws a fuel level discrepancy code, which makes sense because the fuel gauge doesn't work and sometimes I get a random misfire code. I have parts I hope will fix that, though if it is misfiring I don't notice it.

It's a 97 so they test with OBD-II rather than exhaust probe.

Can someone help me with a VIN check?

can I do a head swap and camshaft change with the engine still assembled and in the car?

Should I replace, str8 pipe, or hollow out my currently fuckered catalytic converter?
No communist emission testing where I live

Don't half ass. Cut it out completely

Depends on the engine and car. Probably yes

Whats a fair interest rate when financing a car for a person with great credit?

My credit is excellent, like 8 hundred somthing, and i want to make sure im not getting screwed on the interest rate.

What consists of basic maintance for keeping your car in top shape for a very long time? Whats needed and when? Whats not needed?

How can you tell if the odometer has been fucked with? I see older model used cars for sale with suspiciously low miles...

Whats with some engine bays completely covered in plastic? Everything exept the engine has a plastic covering.

Why do this? Do you people like this?

less than 6% is pretty baller

read the owners manual
>lists of what to change
>and when
short list: filters, fluids and wear/consumable items like spark plugs
>when?
varies with actual usage (dusty areas need more filter changes, etc.) but anywhere from 15-60k miles

get a VIN check
protip: get a month pass and run our VINs too

to protect normies from evil engine hydrocarbon cancers
and help increase catastrophic failures
since you can't just look at the damn engine
>everything except the engine
>he's never seen an high performance engine cover

oil every 5000 miles
belts every 60,000-100,000 (depending on belt setup, more bends in the belt-pulley system = more often
Wheel bearings about the same interval
Coolant change every 3 years depending on climate.

don't crash

I feel like i'm going crazy
I got my shock absorbers replaced a year and half ago, the car drove like a dream, and now it drives handles uneven pavement alot harder, and i took it into a shop today to get an opinion and or replace them and the guy tells me their new, they just need to be broken in before so it's not so rough

I've been driving the car for about half a year like this, and the guy tells me their going to get worn out

I have no idea what this mechanic is doing he isn't trying to upsell me on new shocks or anything. shock absorbers can't switch between from handling rough roads soft to hard and then soft again right?

I've read diablo products are overrated/overpriced. Is that true? I'm trying to figure out what tune I should get.

couple things:
some of those are part of the air intake and filtration system in which case they are designed to direct clean air close to the engine

Some of them are there for under-hood temp control, some are there simply to prevent the owner from fucking with things (very important when selling to older people who are used to cracking the hood and adjusting carbs or such), others are there to identify the engine since everyone's stopped making flashy cam covers with marketing buzzwords stamped into them

>shock absorbers can't switch between from handling rough roads soft to hard and then soft again
yes they totally can.
you can have a different damping rate for normal body roll and road undulations while the shock resists more if the force exerted upon it is harder. This is common with performance suspension.

I've got a Mazda 2 DY (2003-2007) and a motor that regulates the height of front light (0-1-2-3 step) broke. It's a bitch to find that part for this model, so I'm wondering, would a motor from another model be compatible?

Is it supposed to look like shit?

take measurements

Love these threads.

So I have a 1990 na shitbox that I love to bits but it's slower than a brisk walk because of that 1.6. Not that the 1.8 is much better but at least the 1.8 makes 3 figures to the wheels.

I want to turbocharge the car but I hear the 1.6 has shotty rods and can't do boost much higher than 8psi. I'm trying for at least 250 wheel so if probably need about 13psi to hit that.

My question is how much more boost can the 1.8 liter take? And also does the 1.8 use the same engine mount, ecu, coolant lines, vac lines etc.

Will a 1.8 simply bolt right into the same spot the 1.6 did? theyre the same block I believe

also very interested to hear the answer to this

How trustworthy is Auto Check for verifying VIN info?

Why the fuck does my clutch feel so grainy.

>1990 na shitbox
10/10 description nigger

and it just occurred to me you meant na miata not n/a engine

still, be less cryptic nigger

>GM says nobody can make something that competes with the corvette if their name is not ford

That's actually stopped now. The ZL1 has the same 650hp rating as the Z06.

To go from double digits to 250 is gonna take a lot more than just a turbo. I mean, it can be done, but you'd be looking at new internals and heads. you'd be better to try for a K-swap and go from there. Poop with a bit of fancy dressing is still poop. If you want 250 at the wheels, you'll need around 300 to the crank, that's a lot of power for a simple b18 engine, it simply wasn't designed to have that much power outside of professional tuners who literally rebuild the entire engine.
hondacivicforum.com/forum/ed-ef-swaps-35/b18-into-1990-hatchback-13355/
I just guessed at what shitbox you have, and this link should give you an idea of what you might need to do a different engine swap into a much older car like yours.

I've heard that autocheck and carfax are good, but look at different things. You can always look up a VIN decoder on google.

Sounds like maybe your master or slave cylinder has rust built up on the inside and that's the grain you feel when you clutch in and out as the piston moves against the rust.

here
I found this:
kmiata.com/products/ultimate-k24-miata-swap-conversion-package

Can you mod/tune an automatic daily for more hp and torque?

Is it better to just buy the bigger engine? Or mod/tune the smaller one?

Im not looking for crazy speed and hp like a race car... Just somwhere around 300 hp/torque will do.

What are the "simpler" mods/tunes to achieve this?

Several companies make turbo kits that claim 250 wheel. Obviously is need injectors and am that. Are you sure it'll need new heads? I know a guy with a miata like mine and it's making 220 wheel with just injectors a turbo and a tune. That was on 10 psi he said

That depends on a lot of things my dude. You 'll need to be more specific about what car you have and your budget

And how long do you think that's going to last? And "well he's been running it like that for over 2 years". 2 years doesnt count when stock cars "should" last 20+ specifically japanese cars. Look up open deck, semi closed, and closed deck blocks and you tell me which one you think will last the longest with high boost, then go look up what yours looks like. I'm not trying to shit on you, I'm just saying, if you're going to do it, do it right. Budget builds are not real builds.

Nigga I ain't tryna spend 6000$ on a swap. If I blow up the engine in 2 years who cares it's a 500$ engine. Just bolt the shit into a new engine stick it in and good to go.

Just leave it, why would you want to replace it anyway?

Well im asking because im in the market for a used car. I was thinking maybe mod/tune a civic 8th gen or newer Because 150 hp is garbage. Is mod/tune an automatic car in general a thing?

Also does modding a vq 3.7 auto sound like a good idea?

If you're trying to mod get a Honda with a k series motor in it. You can push 250 fro! Those super easy. They're not expensive to buy eithsr .

Just beware of that worst wheel drive shit that Honda has. I'll never drive a Honda because they're all fwd junk

most people dont modify automatics because the manufacturer designed the tranny to deal with X amount of power and anymore could cause excessive slippage, overheat and burn out the clutches. bumping up the power might be ok though if you invested into a good aftermarket transcooler. You'd have a lot more options with a standard transmission car.

Did the manufacturer not do the same with manuels? Design the transmission to handle x amount of power? More power = slippage.

Whats wrong with front wheel drive? No drifting? Who cares. Torque steer? Not soo much in newer moddels nowdays. Unddrsteer? Retards understeer.

Why does my car feel so slow, not in normal driving but getting on it doesn't feel like it has that same punch it use to. Like 2nd gear use to feel like a warp drive but now it just feels okay. I mean it is a slow 2900lbs 155hp shitbox but still, maybe i just got use to driving it. Been about a year since i got it. I don't know if it is placebo or not.

can you get a dui on a 49cc scooter?

Bad cat? Exhaust issues?

You can get one on a lawnmower. But what about a large powerwheels?

fucking gay. asking for a friend btw.

How would i go about telling for either? I mean sometimes when i start it up i smell a bit of exhaust but it is also usually around other cars/in tighter spaces so it might just be exhaust coming back to me.

Front wheel drive is bad because it means you can actually drive in the snow without AWD or 4WD.

>Bad cat?

1) I once was told by a mechanic coworker that he witnessed a high end car that when parked lowered itself so that the body was resting on the concrete, for safety reasons (I think, it was years ago so I may be off). Is that a thing?

2) Does anyone have the greentext story of an Veeky Forums browser who beat a chad with a Mustang in a race while blasting eurobeat?

Find a parts diagram and part number for that model and see if you can find a cross reference guide, odds are yes they used it on another car.

You can replace the clutch, relatively easily, rebuilding an automatic to take more power is a bit more difficult.

What do I do to this thing to make it more aesthetic? 03 CRV

>1) I once was told by a mechanic coworker that he witnessed a high end car that when parked lowered itself so that the body was resting on the concrete, for safety reasons (I think, it was years ago so I may be off). Is that a thing?

Air suspension on some cars can do this, but its not for safety reasons and its doesn't add to the performance of a car, often it subtracts from handling ability.

Is is possible to replace metal aux heater lines with rubber lines? The lines on my 94 Caravan have rusted and are starting to leak coolant and I cannot find metal replacements anywhere.

racing stripes

Get a scanner and see if it brings any codes. Im not real car savy but a few years ago it seemed like my car lost a little power and the dealership said i needed a new cat. Apparently they can burn up or somthing and cause issues with air flow.

Ahh yes. Driving well in the snow. Fuck that noise.

Lol their smart and sneaky as fuck. Could be messing with anons car. If confronted, will blame the dog.

Ahh. Well round about how much more hp could a factory transmission safely withstand before tearin up?

I mean, buy like 30+ feet of heater core hoses and make your own shit, provided you can find the proper size.

Bigger wheels black rims and maybe raise it a tad and bring the wheels out a bit. The color is awful but the black rims can make it work.

Also black out the tail lights.

So, when new, did the 1980s 280zx have a soft, foam like/padded dashboard?
It was way before my time and I've never seen it new or in better condition.
I'm working on fixing up our old 280zx and the dashboard is completely stiff and solid, from the cracks, it looks like it was made from a porous material. The porous material can be seen in the pic, luckily my dash isn't as bad as that one.
Could it be repaired with something like filler or putty? I read that someone repaired theirs with Great Stuff spray foam, but that stuff feels really brittle when dry and I don't know how it'll hold up.
I'd replace the dash, but no one makes reproductions and, living in Texas, most of the parts cars have been sitting out in the sun and are in no better condition.

Turbocharged vehicle:

>going downhill
>downshift to engine brake (as well as normal braking ofc.)
>revs go up to the point where normally turbo builds boost when driving/accelerating

Does the engine compressing air build boost in the turbocharger in any way? As in, is the turbocharger engaged now?
Meaning if I were to step on the gas (which downhill I wouldnt normally do, but for the sake of argument), would the turbo be spooled to provide boost relative to rpm?

I fucked my parking cable with a rock yesterday and now it's stuck pulling the brake. How hard is to diy fix this? My car is a 2013 Focus SE Sedan with rear drum brakes.

Thanks in advance.

Who does the mid-range luxury sports car better, Japan or Germany?