>MX-5 Miat General
SMOKIN' TIRES EDITION
-Discuss making your Miat sound less like a giant bee.
-Converse about how awesome longitudinal I-4s are.
-Talk about your favorite way to destroy tires.
Pic is from this afternoon... and so is this video:
youtu.be
Everyone who posts after me in this thread is gay
that's a given
What options are there for DIY tuning? all I can find are $500-$1000 aftermarket ECUs.
>didn't list year
>didn't list engine
>didn't list budget
It's NA 1.8l
I just assumed since there are only 2 engines any product would work with both.
diy megasquirt 3 for $500 with all the wiring included
mods are asleep
post miatas getting hektik
Is that the cheapest option?
if you think $500 is expensive for tuning your car then you have the wrong hobby.
yes. it's still the cheapest even when you include the price of a soldering iron and solder
I said $500, but they're $400 at the cheapest. however, I got the break-out box to plug straight into my wiring harness
$500 is expensive when Hondas only need a soldered $50 chip on the stock ECU and a laptop.
there isn't much to program on a stock miata ecu, I'm not actually sure if they are able to be programmed at all 2bh. You're paying for a brand new ecu with near infinite expandablility. $500 is breadcrumbs
Except most Hondas aren't like that and require a new, tunable ECU.
My '06 STi only required a Tactrix cable and a laptop - was nice.
My NA8 will be squirting Mega by next Spring. The engine comes out in November and I'm taking it down to the crank and building it back up again. Boost comes in year 2 so I'll have one year of driving all motor.
Question is this: I intend to keep this bastard road legal and realize with MS it won't throw codes to OBDII to pass. Anybody have experience running MS and detaching the stock ecu, but capable of reattaching it for 24hrs or so to pass?
I'm not talking about piggyback
Are you in Cali or some shit? *ANY* CEL makes you fail inspection?
>Shoulda gotten the '94-'95 OBD-I masterrace.
Anyway, this image and link may or may not help:
msextra.com
Wrapped mine
nice radiator air-flow reduction vents lmfao
I've read this on forums. I guess it makes sense - is there comparison days out there?
I have the BEGI coolant reroute so it runs super cold. At highway speeds the temp drops to ~150, the heater barely blows hot.
I'm in MA... it's like CA-Lite
I knowww should have had '95, but deal was too good on the '96 I bought last month. Good article, saved. I'll have to just get it running NA then create an easy way to convert it back without grenading
I want to buy these seats so bad, but sadly I'm laid off from work right now.
Whoa those are nice.
Factory trim? What car? Or are they old after market?
Sup /mg/, I don't own a Miata but my buddy does, a 1995 with soft top to be precise. The back window zipper or some shit broke, so the back window doesn't even exist anymore. When the roof is up, there's just a giant open space behind your head. To remedy this, he just throws a tarp over it and fastens it down by closing the trunk and doors around it (he does this at our work parking lot as well as his house). It's been this way for like three months (ever since he got the car, the window broke a few weeks after he brought it home). He has gotten rained on while out driving before, and not been able to put the tarp on for wahtever reason when it was parked and the interior has gotten rained on a few times.
How do I politely tell him to fix the damn window already? Or get a new roof? He's talking about getting a new steering wheel but no mention of a roof
it's a convertible meant to drive in the open. How about you get a new roof instead?
...
They're Recaro Raptor Artista. I'd like a fixed back seat, but where I park my car I can only open the door about 18", so it would be tough for me to get in and out. These are a close second. I've wanted Recaro Confettis since I was like 16, but I think I like the Raptor print more now.
I see this rear side fender rust threads a lot, fortunately mine still haven't show signs of rust in that area. It doesn't look like an easy task to repair. How to prevent it from rusting?
Is 6'2'' too tall for a NA?
no
Your buddy is a lost cause. Choose your friends more carefully.
It's going to be tight. Depending on your torso and leg measurements and personal preference it might be comfortable or not. I'm 6'3 and comfortable, but most of my height is in my legs and I was once used to driving a '01 VW Polo.
The NA sepcifically has a surprising amount of legroom for being as tiny as it is, but don't expect wonders. Pull the seat back to the second to last notch and recline it as far as it will go.
>braking disc is wobbling
>caliper piston isn't moving freely anymore, probably corrosion
>literally no money
This is madness
Keep your drain holes clear. Road salt will fuck it up no matter how clear they are, though.
A lot of the time it starts behind the panel and doesn't show itself 'til it bubbles up through the paint.
Check more thoroughly and you'll probably find signs.
Feel for any thickening between the skins of metal around the arch and especially at the bottom where it meets the sill.
It's worth checking if previous repairs have been done. There are a lot of good videos explaining how to look for that. If a repair has been done, it's probably been done badly so if there are signs it might be worth getting it looked at.
Why are miatas so slow?
because they're floppy
I don't want my miata anymore I'm tired of it. It's slow, boring to look at, and has no sort of road presence. Why did I ever get this car. I want a 180sx or rx7 or any other jdm car. please help me
Don't worry bro, I'm in the same boat as you. I'm just totally over the meme.
On a side note, here is an exhaust vid I recorded this morning
Nothing is stopping you.
the brakes are slowing it down
I'd get tired of THAT exhaust noise soon, too.
Why do so little people mod their Miata so it's still the classic car everyone loves but, you know, actually goddamn fast?
Adding more power means replacing the suspension to handle it, which kills what makes it good. Also the wheelbase is too short and it fucks up the rotation.
You don't buy an MGB made by japs looking for a ferrari.
post your exhausts
Nah man. I'm 6'5'' with 36" legs. I sit just fine with about 2" of head room. I plan on doing a foamectomy for more and then swapping the door arm rest for some straps so my knee has more room and isn't against the steering wheel
I've got a stock 1993 1.6 and the brakes are absolute shit even though the pads and rotors are within spec. No hope of ever coming close to locking them up.
What do?
>Slow
>Boring to look at
>no road presence
You bought the wrong car. Miatas are about the experience of driving, not about being admired.
Get a Mustang.
Braided cables, replace fluid, brake bleed. Possibly a bad master.
They should lock under moderate pressure.
that is so fucking bad
you wasted you are money
the only good sounding 1.6 are FI
Thanks, never been able to lock them up on pavement. I think I'm going to upgrade to 1.8 brakes and braided lines.
my guy what are those rims, been looking for something like those for a long time.
Factory tops don't have a zipper at all IIRC. the window sill break away from the seams with age/weather though. No fixing it. He needs a new soft (or hard) top.
>oem parts need repair
>kek im jus gonna upgrade dem
>how people know your a ricer faggot
Factory top on the '95 definitely had a zipper. There are replacement tops without - I've got one - but you have to be careful folding the window. But the originals were never meant to fold. Unzip, lay flat, drop top.
Digital ECU Tuner 3 by ECU master.
Solder in piggy back for £170 + MAP sensor.
No idea if they're any good.
All those colours and you choose white.
Why you do this?
Thats your thermostat being fucked, not the reroute kit.
Is you serious?
Loads of people turbo or supercharge them.
There are plug and play turbo kits available from more than one vendor and plenty of people have done it diy.
There's even a very well known forum dedicated to turbo charging them.
slow drivers and naturally asperated faggot fan club actually believe this
>upgrade brakes to the stock later year parts
>HURR DURR RICE
topkek
Hey guys I have a 1999 in an automatic, is a manual swap worth it or should I just sell the car and get another?
Which site is this?
diyautotune
It's not hard, just a massive bitch and a half. It's worth it but a tranny job is hell because of the ppf.
literally a few bolts and the ppf is out of your way
Man I have hands like a Japanese mechanic and it's still a bitch and a half. I never said it was hard.
Got an OEM hardtop with headliner and defrost yesterday. Permanently removed the softtop because muh sports coupe
why are so many hardtops i see for sale red in color?
Because most NA Miatas are red.
No big deal, repainting the car down the road so I don't really care. Got a good deal on it since hardtops are worth their weight in gold in CA
hello friends
You got the wrong car. I love looking at the side profile.
Green car with white hardtop, yay or nay?
I will do it anyway, but it just want to hear you guys thoughts.
If you consider color mixing at all, this is probably the nicest combo.
Wow that makes no sense dude.
>nd miat goes rawwwwr when revved
>want a louder rawwwwr
do any aftermarket exhausts go for that sound instead of trying to make the car sound like it has a V8?
It's
An otherwise stock Miata engine with a loud exhaust will always sound like a fartcan. The only way to get a bit of growl from a Mazda B series is intake.
And unfortunately, all of the current aftermarket intakes for the ND are apparently inferior to OEM in weight, sound, and may even rob performance. I guess I'll have to wait a few years.
just add 4 cylinders m9
ND fag here. I wan't Flyin' Miata's LIttle Big Brake kit, but would prefer if it were red. Is it really an exclusive brake kit?
Anybody know what mods will net me the best gains for an ND?
Should I the super 200 or just stick to suspension/tires?
the starchip alone might be your best bang for your buck until a proper turbo kit is released. but yeah you should probably upgrade your suspension first, unless you like the massive body roll.
It makes perfect sense, the thermostat will close if it starts running too cool. If it runs cool all the time, the thermostat is stuck open.
How much of a bitch? And why is it such an annoying job.
I have other projects that I am working on and need to do the job semi quick.
you can do it in a few hours by yourself with jack stands and a good socket set with loads of extensions, even with no prior experience. Just have a manual at the ready and watch some youtube videos on people doing it beforehand
why the fuck is it that I can't shift into first unless moving very slow BUT I can slip it into first no problem when I meant to go into third
it's like the car is trying to kill itself with me in it
what are the best ways to *squeeze* as much power as I can out of my NB?
>inb4 turbo
unless you want to get your engine bored out at a machine shop, use high compression pistons, port out your head, all new bearings, new cams, new rods, new valve springs, new oil pump, new harmonic balancer, a new intake (probably ITBs) along with a new ECU to make it all work, a turbo is your best bet.
>landlord/neighbor/family friend has had a blue miata sitting in his shop for ~10 years now
>apparently all it needs is a wiring harness, probably needs more than that now.
I kinda wanna see how much he wants for it, but I've never so much as changed oil on a rotary before.
Miatas have normal 4-cylinder shitbox engines borrowed from one of Mazda's hatchbacks.
Don't know why everyone seems to think they're rotary, a non-interference I4 is really the exact opposite.
An intake cam, exhaust header and reflashed ECU can probably get you 160 to 165 crank hp on the BP. Should cost around 2500.
Turbo can give you more than that.
Cost: Depending on how reliable you want it to be and how much fabrication you can do on your own. But expect 5000+ if you can't do farication yourself.
...
Fellow ma bro just bought myself a 96 with the 1.8. Anything older than like 02 doesn't need to plug in, cel isn't a failure. I've been an inspector here for a few years my 96 Silverado was lit up like a Christmas tree. As long as red brake light isn't on you're all set if it passes safety. Abs light is not a failure either, anyone who says it is hasn't read the inspection book
Not on pre emission (15 yrs) vehicles. Ma state inspector
Going to have my hard top spoiler painted soon and I can't decide on a color. Which looks better, black or red? Not looking for opinions on these two cars, they were just the first two I found with pics that actually showed the hard top spoiler. Just looking for opinions on color.
Hook me up with an inspection sticker, family. My Miata is too low, my headlights are illegal because they don't say DOT on them, and my wheels/tires might be illegal. I don't think I've had it inspected since 2014.
Is buying a 100,000km gaycar asking for trouble? The paint looks good
No, as long as it's been cared for. I think OP's car has like 200k miles on it or something.
my NB has over 150k on it from 5 owners and it just has a noisy throwout bearing and a very slow timing cover gasket leak that I'm fixing later this week. Previous owner didn't do shit for 50,000 miles.
Even if it hasn't been meticulously taken care of, there's not a whole lot that can go wrong and it's incredibly easy to work on. So long as the PO wasn't a stancefag or amateur drifter the car will probably be in great shape mechanically.