/CCG/ - Classic Car General

/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Movie Stars edition.

Bring your classic and lets all get rust and gasoline in our eyes together.

>Cars are considered classic at 25 years old

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity

>Post your classic, your work on it, and get advice

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome

>Any and all classics welcome regardless of nationality

>Rust is a bitch, and not for the faint of heart; tread lightly

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, no exceptions

>That classic you're eyeing on Craigslist definitely needs a shit ton of work

Other urls found in this thread:

bigblockdart.com/
youtube.com/watch?v=UUvWBYt__oo
youtube.com/watch?v=FAvQSkK8Z8U
youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy52faJnZg
twitter.com/AnonBabble

poor little Valiant got beat to hell

Do we still have an older thread up?

I'm looking for some old info from previous thread

Last thread is here:

The Valiant may have been too slow to outrun the truck

But it was slow at dying as well! What modern economy car could slam a rock wall at that speed and still start and move so soon after?

Thanks I must have missed it in archives

David Mann should have read up on bigblockdart.com/

It's still on the board, just page 10 now. We just forget to link to the previous thread is all.
But that's taken care of now lol

New axles going in.

The website for the truck's previous owner included a bumper sticker with "NEXT TIME BUY THE HEMI"

Regrettably, I own two movie cars.

The recognizable one:

The obscure one:

So I get this rattle/grind at highway speeds that stops when I engage the clutch or put it in neutral. Thoughts?

The 1st one is bttf, is the second one the green hornet?

Engage (pedal up) or disengage (pedal down)?

If disengaged, the springs in the clutch disk might be worn out and sloppy. Throwout bearing and pilot bearing, too.

If engaged, fuck, i dunno. Check your U-joints and axle backlash.

I'm sure someone smarter than me will come up with other stuff to check out lol

Can you feel anything through the shifter?

I think so, but it's light.

It's only when the clutch is engaged

Does it shake and vibrate when you're in gear and moving? If so the teeth on the gears may be worn or something.

My Corvair has this problem with second gear. The shifter tries to pop out while in gear and you can hear the gear (helical) whining and feel it vibrating. Needs a rebuild soon.

What movie?

Duel, in which a brotrucker earned his CDL and naturally tries to kill someone who passes him on the road.

Correct; and, if you want to be autistic, the 1966 Green Hornet series. That abomination of a remake destroyed several '65s.

The shifter itself doesn't shake too much. Feels like it's transmitting the vibration of whatever is causing it. It's entirely speed related and does it in 3rd 4th and 5th.

Also it doesn't do it If I'm accelerating in the slightest

Picking up this tomorrow. 1953 Ford Mainline, Flathead V8 (rebuilt), 3 on tree (built), 12v system, all new wiring, new brake system, running and driving.... all for 2200.

Wonder what I could get for it after a quick coat of paint if i need to flip it.

it's probably like what kkk said and it's up river of the gear box. Unfortunately i've never dealt with that sort of thing so I can't be of much help here.

Hot rod the flathead for the down payment on a house so you can only make 230 hp.

Too bad mine's not red...

Actually the engine has already been built up.

When do you plan to install the side pipes?
youtube.com/watch?v=UUvWBYt__oo

Just spent 1/3rd the cost of my car on base and clear, now if someone door dings my $3k car I will have to kill them, quite the predicament

Britfag considering buying pic related, going for 1k

Thoughts anons?

There's another issue.. on one hand the whole point of the car was to build it for my wedding, so i want it to be classy....

....but I also like the rumblies....

Peep the Santa Fe seat covers. I got a Mexican blanket covering the back seat

If anything the rumblies will only help get your future wife in the mood you know?
What's classier than Flathead i ask you?
If you like that choppy Flathead sound but want something that can make a respectable power number then you might consider a Y block, it shares the firing order of the Flathead but doesn't have the horrible siamesed exhaust or low compression.

Oh also, you should probably run premium unless you know what compression the Flathead is making.

Guy says he's been running in on regular, been getting 15mpg and able to smoke tires. Power isnt that big of a deal to me, just drivability. So mpgs, sound, and comfortably driving at highway speeds.

Did not expect to see my engine on that chart.

My family had a 1990 when I was a teenager. Seemed to hold up OK but the rust got it.

Alright Veeky Forums
I'm in need of some advice/guidance... I've finally decided to try my hand at some body work, specifically rust repair. I'm a mechanic, not a body man, so.... not sure how well this will go

I've decided to work on my 79 subaru brat as an experiment, figuring that it would be the cheapest and quickest car in my collection to get done.
It is remarkably straight, but has the usual rust in the lower corners of the rear wheel wells and top side of passenger fender. Then fender I have a patch panel for, and am able to do myself. The rear corners, I am planning on using bondo and this self adhesive mesh patch to fill the holes and apply the bondo to that.
Has anyone here had any experience with doing this? Specifically, using these mesh patches?

>inb4 cut the rust out and do it the right way or don't do it at all
I will grind as much as I can off, and am well aware that this is a temporary fix. I am not looking for show quality here, this is a vehicle I purchased for $250 from a man who wanted it out the field where it sat for 20 years. I just want to make it a we footer and paint it this week, and make it.... 'presentable' for a couple years. Sorry for wall of text....

Making progress on the el Camino

>I am planning on using bondo and this self adhesive mesh patch to fill the holes and apply the bondo to that.
It won't work or last. Even on a complete shitbox it's just not worth your time. If you have access to the back of the panel you could weld in a half ass 18 ga steel patch from behind so you don't have to match the body line then bondo over that. Here's a professional service bulletin to explain what I am saying.

>Transgo shiftkit comes just in time for the weekend
hell yeah

Haven't posted in a while so, made some decent progress so I'll dump a couple pics

a picture might help

p
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First drop in, had an old hoist that was sitting outside for years. Decided to put the engine in separate to make it less sketchy.

The host and the heart. Problem was the motor was angled and cockeyed, not to mention AMC motor mounts are major bitch.

Decided to say fuck it, bolted motor and trans together and used a chain leveler this time.

picking this sexy beast this upcoming Friday, 81 Datsun 280ZX

It was around this time I noticed the torque converter was snug up against the flexplate unbolted and not rotating independently so OUT THE TRANS GOES WEW

Turns out the shop that rebuilt it put the wrong front pump in and the converter looked like it was seated all the way but it wasn't.

Also putting a trans back in on your driveway will make you reconsider if life is worth living

Only had to jack the car to the fucking clouds to get the headers in from underneath.

Should've went with shortys

Which brings us up to date, trying to fire it up within the next few days

What american car of the late 60s or early 70s handles the best? Must have a V8. I want something I can take to the track.

I know those feels, I needed like every extension and wobble bit I could find, ratchet was like 2 feet behind the tranny and had to have someone hold the socket on the bolt.

>Also putting a trans back in on your driveway will make you reconsider if life is worth living
You need ratcheting wrenches if you don't have them, they're a god send, especially for installing converters.

The best part was after I got it bolted up, chrysler in all their ingenuity decided to make the bolt pattern for the converter offset and only align one way.

No problem just rotate the converter until it lines up right? No, the mounting tabs on the converter hit the weight on the flexplate before the next hole appears.

I had to fucking unbolt it AGAIN and pull the trans off a inch or two and repeat the process until the holes aligned.

Fucking hell I'm getting the sweats just thinking about it.

Ratcheting wrenches are thick, even regular wrenches would not work on some accessible bolts because you'd hit the case of the trans.

How horrifying
>tfw you think you have it bad then someone has to deal with this shit

...

it will all be worth it though right....right?

You guys think I got enough clearance?

Why won't it work/ All you're doing differently is backing it with steel instead of mesh.

Moffman?

shit. what chassis is that?

Amc Javelin

I've had an idea for a Duel remake for a while now. Some European kid in the near future is driving his grandpa's old "human-driven" sports car, and gets pursued by a malicious AI-driven freight truck up in The Alps

is me bb

Why not go with electric fans? Less strain on the engine too.

Also what it used to look like

After my failed driveway paint job

I plan to in the future, prob some junkyard taurus set up. I just bought that flex flan a while ago and want to use it in the mean time.

Rattle can baby

Wait Duel is a movie?

Hmm

I'm very happy you're alive. Also your bike choice is a shit.

dude with the fucked up 79 trans am again, my dad is adamant about getting a crate motor instead of rebuilding my 403. I can't hardly find a stock 400 only ones that people have built for drag racing. My dad when he built his jeep got a 350 chevy from a company called "Jasper crate motors" or something like that and he suggested them so I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow to see if they've got a 400. Anyway, has anyone ever had an engine from them and if so are they decent?

everyone has someone to talk to.

thanks for reminding me of my life...

me too, also fuck you ya little bitch

What tires were you running in this pic internatanon? I like the pizza cutter look. I was going to get 215/75/15 white stripes on the truck, but I also like aggressive tread like they ran on the old highboys

Nice triumph though, I just got an fz6. You've been working on that javelin forever.

What's wrong with your motor?

No kidding man, 5 fucking years. Piece by piece, plenty of breaks in between.

Fz6 huh, I rode one a couple times. Comfy bike but a bit boring imo. I was trying to help you with your starter like a month ago but your thick fuckin head wouldn't listen.

Rush already did it
>youtube.com/watch?v=FAvQSkK8Z8U

we figured out where the metal was coming from that I found in the oil pan. The engine was rebuilt poorly and the crankshaft end play was so bad that it's fucked the crank up and the machine work on the block isn't worth it since it's a 403.

reporting, its been awhile b/o/ys im in the midst of a 2j swap

Not familiar with your story, 403 isn't a bad motor and can be built into something respectable if you care about originality.

If not depends on what you want and your budget.

Just want a fun driver? Drop in a mild 350 into it.

Got a bit more cash? 400 or 455

Upvoted

thanks m80 i did it the big boy way and did full suspension brakes and all the boring stuff first, lord knows it kills me to see on jack stands and not ripping but i know its the right way

Topkek. I think the final solution was the voltage regulator. Thing was charging my system at 18v. The ground was the solution though.

And the fz does everything I need it too, and it's especially interesting from 9-14k rpm. The exhaust has no character though

That's fucking cool. Why no rb though.

just the simple lack of parts does it in for me, cant run down to auto zone to get a water pump for a gtr:D Id honestly prefer rb but im already balls deep in 2j.

>18v
>mfw

Yeah the exhaust literally sounds like a mildly upset shop vac

when's the last time that dude posted?

I get it my man. Still, bitching swap. This still remains the most badass S30 I have ever seen. Supercharged 90s LT1 with side pipes.

yeah it was haram on levels you couldn't understand. I was burning up a starter every 2 months pretty much.

probably like 6 years.

That dude fucking rips hes a pro sports bike rider:DD you can see the z in the back of this video where he eats shit

youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy52faJnZg

Once i get a nice job i want to mine looking like this i love those hres but fuck their damn expensive

(minus gay stance life of course function over form)

darius khasabi. he's badass. This thing is mental.

and pls don't go that low. It will be pretty much useless unless you are on bags, and if you aren't you won't be able to use that turbo for anything but smooth highway pulls.

My 280ZX is still stinking up the garage too, don't feel bad

This

Although an RB20DET will literally drop right in and fire up with just a few wires, it's too expensive to find good parts

>fire right up
>240z
wouldn't you need to wire up a full ECU for that?

oh for sure i plan on setting it up for mostly autocross with a little street drifting here and there

haha i barely have room to breathe in mine ive been busy flipping parts just to fund the damn thing

Id imagine its about the same exzact work to slap both in their and so far the 2j seems super straight forward it seems like nissian had a swap in mind

I don't know about the 2JZ but an RB20DET is literally a drop in swap. It even uses the same mounts as the L28

Trying to find the time and $ for the same thing. I have 5 s30's just sitting.

kiwifag at it chopping roof's off of sidevalve morries