Hey Veeky Forums whats the best way to clean corroded battery terminals/connecting wire thing?

yeah going to head to autozone and buy a new battery and hope for the best

thanks senpai

one more question if you could

is "platinum" "supermax" ect marketing garbage or are their levels to batteries

yes its marketing garbage.

Pretty much every battery is going to be some kind of lead cathode nickel anode with a sufluric acid electrolyte

>whats the best way to clean corroded battery terminals/connecting wire thing?
Disconnect and clean connectors. If there is blue, then the sulfuric acid is eating the copper wire and making copper sulfate. Importantly, if corrosion exists, then the battery is leaking acid through either the posts or covers. If the posts are leaking, that is what I consider a bad battery but many people live with that. Or it was overfilled and the splashing liquid comes out of the covers and flows by capillary action to the connectors.

Depending on how much spillage there is, you might remove the battery and wash out the battery tray and surround area of any acid. That's because acid corrodes metalwork, so why have more corrosion that is preventable? If the battery has a slip on spongy cover you can remove that and rinse it out followed by a final rinse with baking soda solution.

A used soft toothbrush can brush off the tops of the post terminals without removing the lead. It's good to saved old used toothbrushes instead of tossing them. They're good for firmly yet gently cleaning things. It's fine to rinse the outside of the battery and then let it dry. Just don't splash water inside the battery which makes it overfill more.

When a liquid acid battery is overfull, even though the caps are "leakproof" they still have air holes. As the battery gets used or charged, bubbles of gas rise up. When the car moves the liquid sloshes and touches the hole and the gas then pushes that momentary bit of liquid upwards and out of the cap. So it's good not to overfill when checking the so-called no maintenance battery (which in reality may still need occasional distilled water).

Modern cars may need various security things reset if you remove the battery. Check the owners manual before you remove the battery.

Welcome to Veeky Forums. How is your first day here? Do enjoy your stay

Only real difference is the CCA rating (higher is better) and whether it's deep cycle or not. You'll know if it's deep cycle b/c it'll cost more.

looking at around 200 usd for most options at my local stores... is this a volvo thing?

My past cars, hyundai and honda were not so expensive

Just get the Autozone franchised brand.

I could go off in a tangent about how the battery industry works but i won't. In summary, the B-class batteries are literally just b-market A level stuff. As in, A class company commissions x batches off batteries from manufacturer. From all of those only the top 10% get sold under a A class brand, gets gets resold to B-class. Doesn't mean they suck, the A class stuff just was better.

Was not expecting Veeky Forums to be this helpful. Thank you all for the insights.

Im going to autozone first thing in the AM and will be purchasing the highest CCA rated autozone brand battery.

>typical corrosion
the fuck it is. it's gross neglect

>is this why im having a hard time starting my car?
Corrosion is a classic problem in making for sluggish starts. If you have a modern digital battery charger, it can give you a rough idea as to the state of charge of the battery.

Usually, when the acid is leaking upwards between the posts and the body of the battery, the seals there have failed. And it's time to get a new battery expecially if it's in warranty. OEM batteries don't have much of a warranty though once they are out of that magical 3 year bumper to bumper new car warranty that so many people crave for that magic new car feeling.

just get a new battery. if it's doing that it's on its last legs.

you want an agm battery. like an optima or duracell or autocraft

theyre all the same shit battery, only difference being exterior design and warrsnty length.

penetrating oil and a wire brush

Larger group size batteries tend to cost more. Just make sure the replacement you buy matches or exceeds the CCA of the factory battery. Im guessing your Vulva takes an H6/H7/H8 group size.
Corrosion? Baking soda solution with water does wonders if you soak the battery leads in it.

Is that a six volt car battery?

Lol looks like a golf cart battery

Wait is the battery from 2009? If so then it's definitely time for a new one.

The service power steering message is likely due to under-voltage to that control module, there's probably nothing wrong with it.

Replace the battery, it's obviously crystallized.

likely just two cells per chamber.

Hot water dissolves that shit.

Regular water will go a long way, but take the terminals off and clean them and the battery posts with a battery terminal brush too. A pair of those anti-corrosion rings will help prevent it.

...

>he bought a nu-volvo
lol

looks like 6v batt/ only 3 capswould indicatr 3 cells.
cracking at top of batt = overfilling of electrolite will result in corroded terms due to acid leakage.
buy new sealed/maintanance free batt. clean terms with hot water and baking soda then wire brush/file.
i would just cut terms off/solder new lugs on and fit new batt terms.
check for over-charging9with new batt fitted)

that picture is way too obvious even to normies with a basic highschool degree

should read more like
"car takes too long to warm up? put it in neutral and rev near red line for a minute as soon as you start up"

Dremel tool with a wire brush

Dremel with a wire brush.