QTDDTOTT

Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread Thread

I need some help with my 2003 Cavalier. The area with the grating has a lot of old leaves stuck in it, making a wretched musty smell whenever I use the air con or blowers. If I could take that plastic trim off I could get at the leaves with a shop vac but I don't know how to do that, and the internet doesn't seem to have an answer for such a specific question.

Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.com/Uni-Air-Filter-Bulk-Foam/dp/B003V3O0YK
merrjep.al/Njoftimi/Shitet/Tiranë/AUTOMJETE/Makina/VW-Volkswagen/Golf/Golf/OKAZION-GOLF6-1-4-TSI/4432520
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Close up of the offending area

I just realized there's a QTDDTOTT alive already. I'm a dumb faggot, go there instead until that one dies

will a 99 Mustang GT make a good DD?
It's one of my favorite cars of all time

Is it bad to get a used car at a dealer

Just pop off those plastic tabs with a flathead screwdriver. You'll probably break some if they're old.

It's generally worse than getting a used car from an individual seller. What price range?

Why can't I get my life together?

Did you try looking up "2003 cavalier cowling removal" or something of the sort? Possibly going to get decent answers that way

Anyways, shouldn't be too hard, probably remove the wiper arms (mark their initial position in the windshield, just in case!), then inevitably break off some badly aged plastic screws/fasteners, maybe a couple small nuts, and it should come off

>Just pop off those plastic tabs with a flathead screwdriver. You'll probably break some if they're old.
Doh, now I realize why those gaps in the tabs looked so familiar.

I tried just looking up what the part would be called but I had no idea what to call it. It was a catch 22. It seems the only related answer is "wiper motor assembly removal" because it requires you to remove the cowling.

>Anyways, shouldn't be too hard, probably remove the wiper arms (mark their initial position in the windshield, just in case!), then inevitably break off some badly aged plastic screws/fasteners, maybe a couple small nuts, and it should come off
Thanks

I just got my spark plugs changed and now my engine idles at 500 rpm instead of 800ish.
Is this normal.

in addition to everyone saying take the wiper arms off (they could be a bit stuck use a flathead to pry them off) and then you have those plastic clips or bolts to take off and it should pop right off. I wanted to add, how old is your cabin air filter? Do you even have an air filter? That gross musty smell could be from water mildew inside where the a/c evaporator core is. Past that grating area (which looks like it has mesh so i don't think your issue is leaves) it's a straight shot to your blower motor which should have the cabin air filters nearby. I'm betting on the air filter only because my friend had the same issue and he didn't have a cabin air filter, got one and his smell went away.

What is your cars manufacturer listed idle speed? But no, changing spark plugs shouldn't change your idle speed. Check/clean your idle air control valve.

You're aimless and have no reasonable goals.

Did you gap them correctly?

i would be nervous if the idling went up, not down.

Nah man, the only air filter it has is for the engine. The grating does have mesh, but the thin leaves fell into the gap created by the hole where the wiper arms come out of the cowling. I can see the lot of them when I shine a flashlight into the mesh. Genius, GM, pure genius.

I'll check on the air con evaporator core too, thanks for the tip. I'm such a newbie at car repair and detailing but it's pretty fun to work on this lovable cheap box.

you could go to a home improvement store and look for some sort of bathroom style mildew remover and turn the fan on full blast and just spray it into the intake on the cowling. imo, just keep taking stuff off until you find what you're looking for, that's how I've managed to fix my car over the years.

Says 800. I dont really see any other way than the spark plugs unless something else was stressed.
I didnt gap them. I have a friend who is a mechanic that did. He looked it up and gapped them properly though comparing them to the old ones
eh when it idles down to low, the car starts to vibrate. Like a low deep vibration can be heard in the car. Doesnt happen until it drops to 500rpm

What are some things that would make a red BRAKE light appear on my dash? I'm driving a '00 4D Frontier.

Great idea! I'd love to find a way to fix some of the blowers too, only half of them seem to work even on full blast. Regardless of that fact the air con is still like an arctic wind so that's a plus.

Why does my car sometimes rev low and/or stall when I have the clutch pushed in/when I am coasting in neutral and pressing the brake at the same time? And what else would cause my car to rev without application of the throttle in the same scenario, to about 3k RPM? Both instances will return to normal idle RPM once I come to a full stop (assuming it doesn't stall).

The free revving typically happens after a spurt of faster highway driving. The stalling typically happens after normal urban driving.

also as an after thought, while you have the cowling off, put some soft of foam air filter and bind it to the bottom of that crappy mesh under the grating to prevent more leaves from getting in there. like this stuff:
amazon.com/Uni-Air-Filter-Bulk-Foam/dp/B003V3O0YK

so wait, you went from the wrong idle speed, to the right idle speed. not sure how plugs could have done that, but hey, if it's not broke, don't fix it.

Something to do with the wiring for the parking brake light. probably disengages the parking brake, and the wire is stuck or the parking brake isnt fully disengaging.

Could be a problem with your parking brake sensor.

Or many older cars will illuminate the brake light when the alternator starts showing signs of failing.(Follow by the battery light) I would go to an auto store(Advanced or Autozone) and get your alternator tested. Its free and almost every store does it. If it tests fine its probably the parking brake sensor/wire.

no I went from idling at 800-900 which is correct to idling at 500-600 which is too low.

The car does have some issues with the electrical, but I passed that for old age. The only major problem I have is that a handful of the fuses were removed for unknown reasons, but I'm saving that for when I go to PYP and just pocket the fuses I need.

Thanks for the link. The mesh works fine, it's just the wiper arm holes that are the problem. I'll see if I can form the stuff to those holes.

Should I as a first car?
merrjep.al/Njoftimi/Shitet/Tiranë/AUTOMJETE/Makina/VW-Volkswagen/Golf/Golf/OKAZION-GOLF6-1-4-TSI/4432520
I just want a smooth drive I know its not that powerful at only 122hp. About the reliability, If I take care of it will it break or will it not? What exactly do u do to take care of a car? I know nothing about mechanical work. Should I just take it to some mechanic every once in a while and let him work on it?

Can somebody ID this car and possibly its mods for me?

anyone?

Is it a mustang?

This guy is selling a 2002 camry that I've looked at and is in great shape, but needs a clutch.

1,
>he's asking 1750, way too much for a shitbox that I need to tear apart
Is it too dickish to just say "Bro, you'll get 1000 and like it,"

And 2,
>when replacing clutch is there a benefit to getting a "performance" clutch, or just do oem

Tell him "I'll take it from you today if I can get it for 1000"

is it bad that i want a invidia exhaust for my car?
My car came with alloy wheels so I don't need to replace the steel ones it came with to save weight, next thing people say to lose weight is with a 3rd party exhaust. The low pitched rumble is pretty sexy as a bonus.

pic relate.

I have a 1992 Honda Accord Ex and when changing the fuel filter, I broke a small plastic piece off of the charcoal canister, so I removed the whole thing, plugged the holes, and it still runs fine. I'm gonna ask how I can reconnect the tube from the gas tank back to the fuel injectors so pressure doesn't build in the tank and I don't smell gas everywhere?

> Volkswagen
Nah m8 don't
> Take care of car
Change oils/fluids, tune up, wear and tear parts
> Let him work on it
If nothing is wrong what will he work on??
That's kind of a lot for an old Camry with no clutch I'd spend no more than 800 on that thing.
> Performance clutch
For DD its a pain. The clutch will be way too "grippy" A DD clutch needs to have some slippage

i would look for a "new" one at a junkyard or chop shop. alternatively you can use epoxy and glue the broken part back on and pray it holds. It should since it only has a simple hose attached to it.

You have a vacuum leak.

Brakes are assisted by a Vacuum actuated brake booster, you press the brake I and it multiples the force your pressing against the master cylinder.

If its leaking or a have a leak in the system it exacerbates it when you brake and the engine isn't high enough in revs or have enough time to counter act that extra in the intake, so you lean out and it stalls.

Similarly the engine will rev up when its given enough time to sense that its running lean and dumps more fuel in.

Some companies use the parking brake symbol as also a warning is something is wrong with the brake system itself.

My F150 will light up the parking brake idiot light if brake pressure, or brake fluid level drops below a threshold.

280zx Mid 80's, find a Z forum.

Only if you get GT and a manual, even then the Engine in them is anemic and only really responds to Forced Induction.

If you get an automatic or a V6 just kys.

Unless you have emission testing and or can't deal with the gas smell, having no charcoal canister is no big deal.

I'd like to remove the rust from my truck's undercarriage, would I be able to get the majority of it off with a pressure washer instead of sanding/grinding?

nope, maybe some anti-rust chemicals, but that will take time. your best best is sandblasting

>car was feeling slow when i got on it etc, didnt feel that good but still drove around okay
>does this for a bit
>decide for whatever reason to change up my foot position on the gas pedal
>before was pressing mostly from the very bottom of the pedal because of my seating position
>move my foot up maybe like an inch and now the car feels great and super responsive

I don't understand that much really, the pedal is getting pushed down the same amount or maybe not. Engine before felt bogged as fuck and unresponsive, now it is nice and responsive. Just like an inch up difference.

You were probably hitting your foot on the carpet.

Learn to fucking operate a car.

Why are there no 80s Subaru XTs for sale in North America

Is there a better drift car than this meme mobile for 6k?

I don't understand why people like cars. How do I get it?

>How do I get it?

>drive car
>have good time

>drive car
>get stuck in traffic
>loud music from other cars
>chance of people hitting your car with their car

I don't understand what makes driving fun unless everyone here has some kind of abandoned countryside to drive around in

If it's not something you're into growing up with your family or friends, then wait until you make enough money to buy a decent car and you'll get into it basically

would a WAT tattoo be extremely gay?
what if it was a free tattoo?
Would I be "that guy"?

Mustang, BMW, Mercedes, Camaro, trans am, 240/180, S10, pretty much everything RWD.

>I don't understand what makes driving fun unless everyone here has some kind of abandoned countryside to drive around in

Drive early mornings or late nights on week days.

You need to focus less on the negative things, and more on the joys of developing and applying skills of line choice, precision driving, breaking skill, speed control, shifting ability, sick skidz, and racing. As well as all others not mentioned.

If you've never blasted down your local city's freeway system at 1 in the morning along with the graveyard shifters, racers, and the occasional cop you haven't lived. If you haven't cruised down a country backroad with the windows down on a warm autumn day after a rain storm you haven't lived. If you haven't enjoyed simply getting groceries because it means you have an excuse to hop in your vehicle and go for a drive you haven't lived.

I want to change my oil pan gasket...what's the absolute cheapest torque wrench I can get away with?

He's not wrong

Get a tekton from amazon.

What are the possible reasons behind it occasionally being difficult to put my gear shifter into 1st/R? It gets annoying randomly having to take the time to apply the brakes and really finesse it in there.

Ah, thanks user. I did some googling and my problem sounds similar to other stories.

Is there a good and cheap (or at least a tried-and-true) way to diagnose that it's a leak, find the leak, and then fix it?

Oi, so what are the laws and requirements from importing a car from Mexico to the States?
I wouldn't imagine it'd be that hard considering it's just over the boarder and not overseas. Same goes for transport and shipping it to somewhere to pick it up.
I want a Nissan Hardbody, but all the ones around here in Texas are beat to shit, 200k+ miles, well used work horses for like, $3k+, whereas in Mexico, I'm finding near mint ones with 60k miles for about the same price, converted to USD.
Does it matter that it's a car newer than 25 years old that doesn't meet the current safety standards and regulations since it's just a late 80s/early 90s design rehashed into the 21st century?

first off, let me compliment your choice of model year pics, vent hood years are best years
>lives in texas
>isn't buying the cleanest body D with cleanest VIN records he can find
>and driving to mexico
>for cheap crate motor swap
>and sub $20/hr labor
>cheap trip to mexico AND cheap car repair
dude what are you doing
go
go now
hefetip: ensenada is nice and full of mechanics since baja

>reasons
*those gears aren't synchronized- VARIES
*trans. fluid is bad
*hydraulic clutch linkage fluid is bad
*hydraulic clutch linkage master/slave is failing
*clutch pedal isn't adjusted properly
that's all the easy stuff i can think of

I live in Minnesota. I just lost a 2000 accord to a rusted out frame under the car, poor baby only had 160k on it.

How do I prevent this from happening again? How expensive is it to protect my car from rust?

I love the north for every reason aside from owning a vehicle.

Where can I get replica JDM ae86 coupe bumpers?

all the ones around here are beat to shit and rusted since the people that own them are legitimately using them for work. Even after the cost of transporting, most of the ones in Mexico i find are so much cleaner than the ones I find in the states, justifying the price, though likely not costing that much more if at all.
And from the mileage, I don't judge the engine too much more so the the frame, something with 200k miles is gonna have more wear and rust than a 60k mile car.
In the pic, on the left are the ones near me, 200k miles, worn, beaten, $3k
On the right is in Mexico, 60.8k miles, clean as can be, etc, for $3.5k
Restoring the first one would end up costing more than the price of the latter + transport.
and to be t b h, I'd consider an engine swap later, but for now, a 4cyl daily would be nice just for the gas mileage and reliability.

This Started happening to me too, turned out to be a failing master/slave cylinder.

Not same user.
You could always try a smoke test to find a leak.
Also just listening for a hissing noise.
If you find a hissing noise try and track it down and begin moving and wiggling hoses to see if you can get the noise to change or engine rpm to change.

Then if you do find a leak you can maybe replace it with bulk vacuum hose or you may need to get a factory/pre-made hose.

Usually the first thing to check would be your brake fluid level. There's a sensor in there in a lot of cars.

I also vote for brake fluid level is low. Other than that, the parking brake might not be released completely. But go ahead and check that fluid level first. You might be due for a brake job.

You can make a sleeve out of something with a slightly smaller diameter. And then dab some epoxy on top of that. If you try to just glue them together, you will end up clogging it permanently.

Based on your mileage, you probably need a clutch kit.

Northerner here
If caught early use brush on Por15 on frame and cab corners, shit is great

Are there any good (fast & safe on bad surface) cars for up to 3k€ with NOT MORE than 2.0 made after '98?
(I love laws in my country)

how long could i go driving on out of state plates? i still have about a year left on my car and im moving to a different state and ill be damned if im gonna give up what i paid for just to pay someone else for the same damn thing.

Ausfag here, driving a series 3 AU falcon. Experiencing idle issues predominately while its hot. greentext symptoms:

> Going from drive to neutral or park causes an instant drop, to about 200rpm, and then stabilizes. the car shakes during this time.
> Accessories make it worse (aircon, power steering) as they load the engine.
> if im in a parking lot with the ac on the car is nearly undriveable due to rpm drops and also small amounts of surging randomly nudging me forwards
> Empty or full tank doesnt make a difference
> slight difficulty when first starting the engine

What I've done:
> Intake manifold gasket
> Lower to upper manifold gasket
> Throttle body gasket
> Cleaned all of the above parts
> Checked for vacuum leaks multiple times
> Replaced fuel filter

Plugged in my trusty odb scanner today and found zero codes. However monitoring the exhaust oxygen sensor voltage (on the manifold), the voltage ranges from 0.1-2.8 volts. From literally every source I've read the range is 0.1-0.9, with .45 being equilibrium. Would this be a faulty sensor or some other electrical problem?

The scanner does not give me any error codes and I have no check engine light however. But I unplugged the sensor and ran the engine for a while and that didn't give me a code either. Symptoms remained identical.

My short and long term fuel trim are both within range.

Pic related, not my actual car though.

how do i touch up paint? i do it for the first time and i dont want to fuck it up too badly...

clean wound with alcohol, try to apply a thin layer of paint, repeat if necessary, wait to dry, add clearcoat?

Get your tiny ass brush. Get a stool maybe so you can be comfy while you do it. If you fuck it up wipe it off straight away before it dries.
Keep trying until you have it really good so it's hard to tell it's touched unless you know it's there. Done.
Clear coat not completely necessary. It also makes it harder to fix if you want to put that extra layer on

well thanks i tought i need to sand it down a bit or something

Keep getting oil leaks at filter

Tried 3 times with different filters, each with their own new gaskets

Should I just RTV it and deal with that headache every 6000 or just add another cup of oil every week?

What is the Twingo meme about?

Forgot an old gasket underneath the new one?

Didn't look like it, but a cardboard gasket could get black enough to not be noticed

I'll scrub at it and see, thanks

time for a new engine

Actually considering a swap, but it's gonna be at least December before I can get started on it

Thanks user. Are there typical leak areas that I should be wary of?

not the same user, but with vacuum leaks to the brake booster you can try clamping the hose shut with pliers and seeing if it makes a difference. you can also apply various substances around the area to look for a voltage change

>carby cleaner
>water
>propane
>smoke

its also possible to have a leak in the booster itself.

Anyone has experience with the Citoen BX?

i can get a 16V one, with the more powerful 1.9 for super cheap

Problem is, im sorta clueless blonde when it comes to taking care of stuff. I mean, i can refill fluids and change tires and do some light maintainance...

but i really want this thing

Celica/prelude but neither is fast

Shit myself in the car this morning Veeky Forums. Seats are Alcantara and I think some of the juice might have seeped through my pants. What's the best thing to clean the seats with?

How is owning a BRZ with a family? My son is 3 so in a year or two he will be out of his car seat and can probably just sit in the back with a booster.

>asks for ideas about importing a D21
>give him easiest answer in terms of paperwork
>posts that wall of text, just to be a contrarian
neat go buy a mexican one

>swapping a I4 for a V6
never implied this, KA24DE engines are cheap as fuck in mexico son

Is there anywhere in central florida where I can practice drifting without getting in trouble?

Why don't you try drying those leaves with a hot air gun, and then use compressed air to pulverize and blow them out? Would that work?

How do you deal with people who ride your ass Veeky Forums?
>take foot off gas and see how slow they'll go before passing

That's the way. Best is when they try passing and get held up by traffic

Where am I likely to find the speaker that makes the beeping noise when I put my car in reverse? No, the car does not have a sensor of any kind. It's like 20 years old.

Sometimes like but sometimes I floor it and look how fast they can go.
Usually they tend to not exceed 230km/h.

It won't. The gap that the leaves are in is deep and has a lot of crevices, and I'm really anal about getting things done properly. I'm going to try taking off the cowling and vacuuming out the leaves today.

Why do my brakes howl when stopping in reverse only?
04 S60R with Brembo 4 piston calipers, semi metallic pads and oem discs. I have had them apart and lubed the calipers and applied silicone the the back of the pads, but they still make a high pitched howl in reverse only. Forward braking is quiet.