I paid $3200 for this, 05 G35 w/ sports/tire package w/ vlsd. Has 140k miles and has new radiator, gaskets, new bushings, oil changed, fluids done and all that good shit by the previous owner prior to selling (had receipts).
No oil leaks and no smoke, only issue is a wanky gas reading and shitty paint. There is already an intake installed and I am going to get the plenum spacer done this week (the box said 13 hp tho). Will do HFC and AF tune when all is set and done
How'd I do?
Other urls found in this thread:
sfbay.craigslist.org
youtube.com
twitter.com
I bought this for 7k with 181,190 miles
Terrible since it's a nigger car with nigger tints
Are you a nigger?
Tint was done recently, and in Florida tint is necessary especially on a black car. Whats wrong with tint again?
They're for niggers
And it's called an air conditioner. Stop being a pussy
Stop trolling
I got my FD for $7500. It's been a bit of a basket case, but I've gotten past all of the mechanical issues now and it was still a good deal.
Good shit, still has the original engine?
Is the heat from the transmission and engine really a big deal?
Especially in Texas?
cash?
kek, no. Most FD's have had a rebuild or replacement by now, and many of the ones that haven't will need it soon. I had a brand new engine that would have gone into an '02 FD installed last May.
The engine bay does get hot as fuck, but anyone who has problems with their interior heating up probably modified their exhaust incorrectly. One of the most common mods is replacing the stock pre-cat with a straight downpipe, and if you don't apply some kind of insulation or heat shielding to the downpipe, heat will get into the interior via the transmission tunnel and passenger floorboard. That stock pre-cat has tons of heat shielding meant to prevent this.
Finance
> but I've gotten past all of the mechanical issues now
*apex seals teleports behind you and steals all your compression"
not so fast kid. heh.
>$4500 USD
>6000 kilometers on it
How
Japan and knowing the right person
$4,000 with 10,382 miles from the original owner.
still cant believe you sold it
I had an '06 STi I got at an auction.
I tuned it, ran 19 psi, redlined daily, street raced, took it to drag strips, did donuts, etc.
I put over 65k miles on it and sold it for $20k (only $2k less than I got it for) six years later.
I did maintain it well and kept it clean though, pic related right before selling it.
>600 CAD
I thought I was the one doing the stealing.
After an alternator, a frame repair, rocker panels, a hood, door hinges, and soon to have a windshield, tires and a new ECM, i realized that I was the one robbed.
bought it for $2000 at 150k. Nothing wrong with. Had it for about 3 years before I wanted something else.
>find motorcycle on Craigslist for 4k OBO
>pull up to gated community with massive houses
>guy is clean cut wearing business attire
>opens one of two 3 car garages that was purely dedicated as a shop for his bikes
>immaculate set up that looks like a show room
>10 bikes varying from vintage to new all in pristine condition
>wife says one has to go if he wants his new Africa Twin
>pulls out bike I was interested in and walks over the entire thing with me
>jokingly offer 1k and he says how about 1200?
>shake his hand on it and take it home 2800 less than expected
nice, craigslist is shit for the most part but when you come across people/deals like that, it makes it worth it.
>sfbay.craigslist.org
I kind of want to but I'm afraid it'll be a shitty impulse buy. The guy already lowered the price $200, I've repaired similar damage before, and there seem to be plenty of potential parts donors at local junkyards. I'd have to drive it about an hour and a half to get it back to my place, but bungee cords seem like they'd help, and according to the seller it does run. Should I or should I not, dealhunters of Veeky Forums?
04 GTI VR6, 3000$, 108k miles I think it was a solid buy always wanted a gti.
That car is worth $250 and not a penny less.
I hate CL but my friend found it for me. He's somehow extremely lucky with it and always gets on top of good shit. When I was 16 I bought a hot 5.0 off some Mexican for $800 and found out the hard way that CL is garbage
I'm assuming you meant not a penny more?
>I bought a hot 5.0 off some Mexican
Did you part it out?
How
Asking price was $4000. Saw it on craigslist for a month.
Waited and went down to look. The guy came out and I said I might do it now, but I only had $2k on me. He said deal.
This. I call the cops and report cars for tint to dark
Brandon?
I love these threads
>maxima
>one owner
>120k miles
>5 speed
>0-60 in 6.5
>just needed an alternator
>$1200
Bought it bone stock. Its pretty fun and it sounds so good.
Do it. That is so sexy
Nice, those things are max cozy and very fast with the manual. I miss mine, I loved the leather seats.
>how'd I do AFTER buying it
If you need to get a car with 140k miles just to afford it, maybe you are getting the wrong car.
>6.5 sec
(Doubt)
VQ35DE is reliable as fug.
I always see 200k+ examples on craigslist.
>friend buys a 81 c10 lwb 2250$ Canadian
>live heavily in the "salt belt" 10 year old cars are almost unsafe for the roads due to rust Nova Scotia (probably where your lobster comes from)
> buddy bought the c10 to put on his k20 chassis
>helped him swap the cab and such over one of the cleanest trucks I've ever seen
>mfw he tells me he found a card in a sun visor pouch containing the dates and kilometres when changed and that the truck never rolled over
> body that we thought had 126905km actually had 26905km
He wanted to put half ton running gear out of a suburban with rallye wheels on it because his steel 8 bolt rims on the 3/4 ton weren't nice looking
>bring him over 4 rims for his 8 bolt stuff
And I wanted to buy his 2wd frame so I ask him how much to buy it
>50$ he said
>gave him sixty + the rims and helping him switch stuff over
He got a wicked deal on a truck
I got a wicked deal on a frame
Nope.
My point is if you are so poor that you make mental acrobatics to justify a 140k car rather than something more economical, maybe you should have gotten something else while you saved up for something that wasn't in that state.
I prefer the cloth so my ass isnt singed in the summer and frozen during the winter. Plus, non-powered seats means less weight. Still, very under-appreciated and over-looked cars.
You can doubt it all you want mang, thats a bone-stick 0-60. With the mods I have its easily faster. A y-pipe alone nets you 20hp in these cars due to super-restrictive precats
have a video by some dude
youtube.com
Was this the one the guy tried to sell for like a year without headlamp covers?
>complaining about someone spending 3k on what seems to be a fairly clean car
I think you might be the poor one here
heat melts interior trim and headliner especially in humid states
All I heard from him was, "wah, I paid the same amount of money on my 03 Civic. Its not fair people can have better cars then me"
Mine was the GLE, which I believe was the highest trim. Heated seats, adjustable steering wheel and seats, leather everything, etc. And it was still surprisingly fast with all the luxury nicks and nacks. It is definitely a hidden gem, the biggest problem is the engine is too damn big. There isn't too much room under its massive hood.
$800 USD
1987
81k original miles, ran the vin and everything is clean and checks out
I'm actually a tech at an Infiniti dealer. Your fuel gauge problem is either the level sensors in the tank, or the meter on the cluster...sometimes both.
Z32tt with 90k miles for $4900. In very good original condition. Two owners. I've modded it now but it's almost too clean to beat it up on the track. Love/hate the car as a result. May just build another for the track, starting with something less clean.
I've never owned a Civic in my life you little shit but if I did I could beat out your pigfat Nissan with a few simple mods.
>I'm a cuck.
Is what I read.
>few simple mods
I really hope this is a shitpost you cringy busrider
7.99% if i remember right
Should I get an 2005 e90 320d with 160k km for 6200 euro if it is in good shape from previous owner? Is it unreliable or does it only ever break if you dont take care of it?
I wont drive that much with it I just like how it looks and think its a good price
>Shitty diesal e90 from 12 years ago with fuckton miles
no.
ok i will get it then
There's an 04-05 Pontiac GTO for sale here that's gotten new heads for the LS1 engine, new front tires and slightly used rear, street drag tires(both are Nitto), and new leather interior. Guy's selling it for 7k, but it's an autotragic(guy says he's got a new, drag racing transmission in it though)
Been looking at it for almost a year now just wondering if it'd be a good buy and why no one else has scooped it up yet
I seriously dont understand how i see soo many people on here say they bought a car with 100k 120k 130k+ miles on it. Arnt you guys worried like hell that its gonna crap out in you in the near future? You dont know how it was driven or taken care of. I saw the other day an user bought a car with almost 200k on it. Thats just insane to me. I couldnt trust it. Im actually in the market for a used car and anything even close to 100k miles im scared to buy. Ideally 70k or less and ill feel somewhat at ease.
Im not bashing anyone just wonder if it deters you guys at all and why or why not.
How is it a nigger car? They cant even afford them...
But seriously what makes it a nigger car?
Whats he mean by runni g it at 19 psi?
Is this a troll post or is there something im missing here?
Rare find.
the "what if it breaks?" anxiety goes away when you have the confidence that you can fix whatever breaks. Then the market opens up quite a bit.
The only thing i look for is super high mileage cars (300k +) because the physical chassis gets stressed and loses structural integrity and you cant really fix that bar stitch welding or some shit
$5000
Z28 383 stroker big cam, full suspension, nice paint and interior
Thought it was bs when I saw the post but guy was moving and didnt seem to give a shit about money.
We're not fucking stupid nu-male trash that doesn't know how to properly look over a car and know if it's good or not.
>live in northern state
>all cars under 3k are rust buckets
It depends on the car, if a car has 55k miles but the owner thrashed it and did 10k oil changes i wouldent buy it. I bought a trans am once for $800 that had 245k miles on it, thing ran great and had plenty of life left in it. The point is if a car has been maintained mileage can be just a number, im only warey of miles when the car has an automatic transmission.
I bought this thing for 2.5k
mint condition.
$12,000 cash wired off corvette forums
$500 to ship it
$1,800 for new clutch and tires
Ton of mods on the car
That's a light damage, don't worry.
This gen is famous for the repair cost when you hit something with 2mph, everything gets smashed.
I'm a 190 owner, so feel free to ask me stuff about it, in the past I had some w124s, so I kind of know what's going on.
The suspension seems perfect and if you manage to sell those shit rims to some Vagos morons, you could even manage to repair the front. The engine works at 600rpm at full oil pressure, which is important. Look out for the coolant collector - if it's even a bit black, the engine mixes the oil and the coolant, which means a head gasket repair. Take it for a test drive, if the gearbox changes gears nicely and without any kicks, you are fine for the future. Those headlights are utter shit, so no wonder the owner hit something with the car. Check for rust on the jack holes, they are known rust collectors. Leather seats, looks like it has AC, so give it a try. For that price I would buy it, the repairs could be done at home if you have any basic mechanical knowledge.
Well, it might be worth the trip just to take a look. Like I said, I've got experience with this kind of stuff, and there's lots of w124s at my local junkyards. He says it's got a bad alignment, will that be an issue for an hour and a half drive? If I keep it slow?
>hour and a half drive
Play it by ear, but Ive driven plenty of cars with fucked alignment. Might wear the tires real fast but who cares?
Please be joking
Keeping the spare tire at 19 psi helps with weight distribution
And what slow piece of shit do you drive??...i can smoke the fuck out of it in my 1994 EG hatch with a couple of simple mods:
10 point cage with Parachute
3 piece discontinued JoJo frontend
spec-R full drag suspension
Fuel cell with -8 lines from tank to motor
1 044 bosch pump
1200 rc injectors
golden eagle sleeved block
cp 10:1 pistons
Eagle rods
arp headstuds
oem h22 headgasket
Balance shaft delete
competition clutch twin disc
Port and polished head
skunk2 valve springs and retainers
Str cam gears
crower stage 1 cams
aluminium radiator with slim fan
gsr transmission with itr lsd.
qsd h2k intake manifold adapter
k20 rbc manifold
qsd throttle body spacer
blox 70mm throttle body
4bar omni map sensor
6al msd with coil and cap. 3 step launch control
hks bov
Garret 102mm turbocharger.
Custom t4 front facing turbo manifold with 44mm flange
44mm tial wastegate
Custom water to air intercooler set up
aem eugo wideband w/ gauge
tuned on chipped p28
13 inch volks drag rims
2 15 inch volks rear rims
arp extended wheel studs
si cluster
150 shots of nitrous
im making 348 horsepower to the FRONT WHEELS because thats the only place the power should ever be