/CCG/ - Classic Car General

/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Murrica edition.

Bring your classic and lets all get rust and gasoline in our eyes together.

>Cars are considered classic at 25 years old

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity

>Post your classic, your work on it, and get advice

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome

>Any and all classics welcome regardless of nationality

>Rust is a bitch, and not for the faint of heart; tread lightly

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, no exceptions

Other urls found in this thread:

amesperf.com/
jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1406/10002/-1
topclassiccarsforsale.com/dodge/326777-dodge-challenger-1970-challenger-rtse-just-out-of-25-years-storage-335-hp-4spd.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Nice BRONco ass shot, too bad they won't be coming back as two doors.

It truly is sad. They could have made a great successor, but they fucked it up. I understand the need to sell units, but thet should have made a 2 and 4 door option

Hey guys this weekend I put a new core support in my younger brothers Nova....... Commencing project dump in 3.2.....1

2/? Have the old support out in this pic

3/? Old sort out (mounts were rusted off

4/? New support getting some touch-up paint

5/? Newish support is in!

Last one! Ta-da

Now returning to my reg shitposting about me t/a

Sorry aboot spamming my weekend project .... I just wanted to share a small visual story of how I was able to save an 76 xbody from the shit box yard

Agree, but according to some sources, apparently there isn't a market for a two door SUV... I don't know if that's true or not.

If they do go with this, it's literally just going to be a body on frame Explorer that no one really asked for. Another unneeded midsize SUV imo.

Gnite yall

Got the newly rebuilt rear-end with truetrac in today, it didn't go well. Mid way through the first drive, under moderate acceleration from a stop/through turns, something feels like it's binding up and sounds like grinding, only occasionally happens during the shift from first to second (TH350c). Ran out of time to fuck with it today, drove fine other than that happening, did it twice leaving a light in a straight line under moderate acceleration too.


>used conventional 80w90 without LSD additives
>let run on jackstands for ~10 minutes as per shops instructions
>went to parking lot and did mild figure 8's, drove home, let rear end cool before going for a second drive

Fuck.

fucked up 79 Trans am dude with another update. I did it, I bought a 400 block and it's currently being locally built by a family friend who builds motors for sprint cars. Long story short my dad talked to him and no joke he had an extra 400 block sitting around that was ready to build. Anyway, while I'm waiting on it I'd like to rust protect my trunk since It leaks pretty bad. Can someone help me pinpoint where it's leaking. Also is it too far gone for one of those POR15 floor pan restoration kits?

This is the worst and unfortunately it's probably in a really bad spot. I wonder if the por15 kit would be better than welding in this area since it's got some difficult angles plus I'm awful at welding.

Look for where the rust goes, be it between panels, up above shit, or from a hole, it's getting in somewhere, all else fails get someone to hose the outside down, climb inside with a light and wait.

Don't just por15 that, get the grinder wheel out and start taking shit off, it's easier to patch it right once than it is to half ass it and then have to do it right later when it's gotten worse.

Gotcha, I'm gonna have to learn how to weld floor pans soon enough so I might as well get some practice on something small like this. Surprisingly this car is pretty damn rust free aside from that area in the trunk. Also if anyone has a trunk light on their trans am could you provide pics of where it connects to? Mine is there but the wire has been snipped.

Blew the small block 318 la over the weekend. I'm getting a remanufactured 360 la long block to swap in. Does anyone know if the intake manifold on the 318 will work on a 360 or am I stuck buying a new one?

I think it fits both irrc

I replaced the accelerator pump on my truck and it still bogs down on acceleration. In park it has a bit of a miss when the gas pedal is hit but when put in drive if the gas pedal goes anywhere past 15% throttle the truck starts to bog down and die. It's got an electric fuel pump.

Bought a new car this weekend. It's half the size of the ferd

It looks like you could put it in the bed of the ford.

It's currently very dusty on the gravel roads near me. I kind of don't want to paint the orange ford because i wouldn't want to drive on gravel roads then.

Is it a recent problem or ongoing? sounds like running lean once you're off the idle circuit of the carb

I probably could desu. I thought you bought a brand new carb for your Ford, is that correct?

Picked up my new baby this weekend. 1989 Firebird Formula 350

pls no bully

Needs some THICC rubber on the back

Pretty cool bird senpai

It has a superchip, edelbrock headers and magnaflow exhaust, accel coil, new wires... i think a couple other new parts from the PO. Interior needs some work, and it has the obvious peeling clearcoat.

That feel of when I haven't been having to work on this truck that much for awhile because stuff doesn't go wrong on it. Most recent thing I did was the heater core, which took like an hour total and was super easy

Could be shims or something.

Nice truck OP
Here's mine.

I'm back fuckers. Getting ready to rip the whole front end of my Custom apart. Meeting a guy Wednesday about a '76 Ford Elite.

...

It's been like this forever.

I traded a blue 1996 Dodge with no motor for an edelbrock 1406 and 4 mud tires that were bald. Came with american racing rims though.

It's a truetrac so it should have limited slip clutches in the gear set. Sounds like the problem is you didn't put the limited slip additive in it. That will cause those clutch plates to chatter.

It will fit. LA small blocks are basically all the same. Its the same with 383/440, RB big block intake manifolds are compatible with different blocks

Go with a new MSD coil- Accel coils are shitty chinese manufacturing.

I'll probably do this when I do the plugs. The wires are new but the plugs aren't. Not sure how I feel about wrenching this TPI motor yet.

It will give you problems. Cross-port was waaaaay better. Tuned port is just... blegh. My dad had a TPI in his 1984 Vette.

Cut all the rot out with a grinder wheel. Fiberglass with mesh backing to repair the holes, then paint. Get in the trunk with a flashlight and have someone spray water while you investigate.

Those are both gorgeous trucks.

I'm more partial to the Bronco though. It's beautiful.

it's better than it being fucking unibody.
the real shame is no more jump-proof TTB, afaik it'll only be cuck-tier IFS

Long term plans for this are engine + 5 speed swap (its automagic). Short term is fix seals, stop rust from spreading and work on the interior

Some people say weld patches instead of the fiberglass but with a relatively small area like that could I get away with just the fiberglass? Later tonight I'll do the flashlight method.

>always loved squarebody chevies
>wanna get one for daily truck that can do some light trails and something I can work on
>K10s need axles to run anything bigger than 33s or low gearing
>all K20s have had their axles pulled or raped into the dirt because they have the good axles
>SRW K30s are white fucking wales
>all K-series trucks have been beat to shit and will require a shitload of money to get back to drivable
>pool is even narrower because I want something pre-83 so I'm inspect exempt
it fucking hurts, it hurts so much

Either way works. I like fiberglass because there's less chance of leaving pin holes. I also have very limited access to a welder and I'm not very good with it.

With big holes like that it's important to use the wire mesh backing. Fiberglass over both sides, sand flat(ish), and paint both sides. You want to paint it very well because that bondo-glass compound is porous and will absorb moisture. The bondo glass is kind of clumpy and hard to get completely flat and molded exactly how you want it. So if there are any extra small spaces that need filled, you can use the straight body filler to fill it in.

Rebuild the carb and change your fuel filter. It sounds like you have dirty jets.

Thanks! I'm awful with a welder so I'll see how it works out. The other part that leaks is somewhere above the passenger side foot well. I've herd the F body kick panels can be problematic and cause that to happen. Once I get new seats I'm going to sound deaden and re do the carpet so I'll try to locate it then.

I'm planning on giving my 1986 Bronco II Eddie Bauer edition a new paint job. But I don't know if I should keep the originial dark red & tan scheme.
I would love to have it painted on the Red-white-red other Bronco IIs have.

Funny how things like that work, I need a new 350 for my olds and I found one under a bunch of car parts in our shed.
I am actually excited for you, my W72 block is done but im still waiting on pistons because no one makes 50 over ones. I had to sadly take it to 60 over but now my car will never be a racer and I still have not ordered pistons.
Do you have all the necessary parts for the swap?

got my club sticker

Thanks, and good luck on your project. anyway, I'm going to order the proper alternator and power steering brackets. I'll need a flexplate, fuel pump, starter, pulleys, and maybe the motor mounts. The guy said the 403 ones might fit but I won't know until I pull the 403 to look at them. For sure I'm going to re locate the fuel lines form passenger to driver side. Other than that I think it'll be good to go.

No problem man. If that other leak is something like a body seam leak, you can use rtv silicone of seam sealer. I used quite a bit of rtv silicone on my bronco to fix leaks.

These guys are good for that sort of stuff
amesperf.com/

Good work.

Have there been any confirmations of no two door option or are we just making assumptions?

On that note

>tfw no 78 four speed big block Bronco

I'll check it out when I pull up the carpet. The original owner did a very poor job of putting the carpet in and glued it down to the bare metal of the floor pans with no sound deadener or insulation.
Just checked them out and requested a catalogue. Hopefully they can help with all the small stuff I'm missing. Where I haven't been able to drive my car I've been fixing all kinds of small stuff and finding things I didn't even know the car had. Like cruise control (completely gutted) and foot well lights that I got working and look really cool. There's only a few things I haven't traced down exactly what they do like these two plugs in the pic. I think they are for the gutted ac and heat system but I'm not 100% sure.

Thanks, holmes

I know that feel

I already had the carb apart to replace the accelerator pump and it was clean inside. The fuel filter is new, and it can't be dirty gas because the gas tank has been cleaned, and the fuel filter is new. In fact it has 2 fuel filters, the one on the electric fuel pump and the regular one on the line.

Tracking down a 1 year only ECU for my 92 Chevy. It's been a pain but I'm getting close, and the prom chip is very specific too! Just want the old girl to run right when the 5.7 is slapped in.
>implying it will be an easy swap
Hahahaha im sure some fuckery will occur.

If it's carbureted why does it have a fuel pump? Usually it's just vacuum.
Anyway, you float bowls could be messed up, jets could be not spraying as much, or getting a poor mixture of air and gas. Timing is another problem. I'm betting it's not timed right bud. If it's firing wrong that would explain the miss at idle and bogging under load. Hope this helps bud. Remember, I am an idiot just trying to help

>If it's carbureted why does it have a fuel pump?
Every carbureted car has a fuel pump

Brain fart! Sorry!! Yes you are right, I'm just used to working on them where they aren't in the tank.

The motor is a 460 from an RV. The mechanical fuel pump isn't being made anymore because Ford says fuck you so I had to go to an electric fuel pump. Only pushes 7 PSI. It idles perfectly fine but the moment you touch the gas pedal it bogs down a bit then takes off. The float bowls looked perfectly fine. It could be either tune or timing or both.

jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1406/10002/-1
Link is the carb, it's 600 CFM with electric choke

Not all, but then you're going back to the brass era. The most famous example would be the Model T, but many cars of the era used a pressurized or vacuum tank instead; some of which were primed by a hand pump. Other vehicles had individual bowls atop the cylinder that had to be filled and dumped into the cylinders to start the car.

Model T didn't have a water pump either right?

>If it's carbureted why does it have a fuel pump? Usually it's just vacuum.
Wut?

I have plans for it but life is getting in the way

iktfb

Correct. I dream of owning a Model T some day; I'll tear the entire thing apart and build it EXACTLY the way I want it, but that comes after I move.

I figure, since I'm going to be single forever, I might as well embrace it.

>I'll be single forever
Stop being an autist and that'll change

what kind of oil do you use for ur classics
ive been using the 5w 30 but i think
im gonna switch over to heavier oil 20w or 30w

bc when its hot an the motors under heavy load the oil is TH IIII NNNN

i was gonna switch to the 30w
what do u cats think

There was supposedly some "inside information" that claimed it would be based off the aussie everest platform, but with removable roof and window panels. So going off that information, its highly possible it will be 4 door, but it could also be a 2 door. Ford still hasn't actually said anything.

On that note as well, mine is a 4 speed big block...it is a good feel my man.

Breh, I know that feel. I had given up on women until I found my fiance. She was a sheltered catholic girl hidden from the world.

I'm switching to straight 50 weight on my Bronco soon. Due to my fucking TRASHED main bearings I have almost no oil pressure when it gets past 95 degrees outside. Currently Im using whatever is in our reels at the dealership, which I believe is 5w30.

I'd hardly consider myself an autist; while I do have a ridiculous amount of knowledge about older cars, it doesn't rule my life.

If you want to talk autistic, look at women who love one of these three things: horses, supernatural, or twilight.

My problem is I want a woman of comparable attractiveness that I can tolerate living with and hasn't had children yet.

topclassiccarsforsale.com/dodge/326777-dodge-challenger-1970-challenger-rtse-just-out-of-25-years-storage-335-hp-4spd.html
Is this sight legitimate at all?

Gave the bronco a wash and detail yesterday. I know it's kind of like putting lip stick on a pig, but it's much better than it was before and I think it actually looks okay. I need to do something about the stripped hood though. I'm thinking just some rust reformer flat back.

Lmao nigga good luck on that senpai. If you didn't find her earlier you ain't gonna find her now

Yeah; while, officially, I've given up, I don't rule out the possibility. After all, I'm only 28.

Dunno about the site but the ad is bullshit,

In storage for 35 years, so it saw a life span of 12 years on the road. That was a fucking rough 12 years.

I had an orange Ford at one point.
My first vehicle. 1978 351M
I wish I had more pics
this one is from May 31 '99

Sharp looking rig

You're a 40 plus fat autist who doesn't own half the shit you claim to kys fgt

let's just calm down holmes.

Nice truck dood

Lmao senpai your a mortician you're gonna attract the last of those two

Vacuum pulls it to the carb or it's a pressurized tank, or am I off? I'm sorry fellas.

Engines will have a mechanical fuel pump, usually driven by the camshaft.
My motorcycle has an electric fuel pump oddly enough.

Mechanical Fuel pump

I can prove otherwise, but I don't imagine anyone cares for breadposts or a picture of me.

Not anymore. I'm in IT now; more pay and drastically reduced hours.

I love the orange color. I think it's called vista orange, right? What happened to the truck in the end, did you sell it? Also that looks fun as fuck

ccg turns into hatefest. Just post the classics boys

I read that, with no engine and transmission the price still seems low. That's why I asked if it looks legitimate.

I beat the shit out of it because I was a stoopid teenager. By the time I went in the Navy there wasn't much left to sell and it just went to a bone yard.

How2fix?

Hm, that's good to know but I don't really buy it. At least not until I see some test mules or some official press release or something like that

I don't doubt there will be a four door version (I mean shit the JK unlimited sells faster than fuck) but I don't think we'll be forced into four doors.

I was thinking cut that spot out, weld in a replacement piece like pic related then overlap that with another patch that goes further along the frame

Ajjjj lemayo

Mechanical one, yeah, I forgot. The electric one threw me off, sorry guys.

JB weld and semen

Here's a fun ponderance; if you were given $50k to spend on a classic car, what would you buy?

Not repairing your own car, but you have to use the money to go out and buy one; you don't get to keep what's left, either.

Easy