Turbo 4AGE

Hey Veeky Forums, I recently got a higher paying job and was looking at building a turbo 4AGE to go into my 1986 AW11 MR2.

The current engine has been rebuilt and has about 13,000 miles on it and runs very nicely, it's just that I'm in Montana and with the speed limits being 80, and large mountain passes, the car is not quite ideal.

I found a scrap aw11 with engine and transmission for 400.00$ locally and have been trying to find just a bare block. My plan is to build it in my garage over the winter carefully, while continuing the drive the car, and come summer I can commute via motorcycle while swapping engines.

My question is, does this sound like a reasonable plan, and which series 4AGE block is the best for a boost application? I'm only looking for ~200 HP.

Other urls found in this thread:

portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/age-engine-block/6234661709.html
billzilla.org/4agmods.htm
matrixgarage.com/content/yoshimitsuspeeds-guide-turboing-4a-ge
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

If it's your only car, it's a bad idea

The best 4A for boost would be the Smallport 4As from around 1990-92, or you could find the last gen 4AGZE (E100), it has the small port heads and higher compression ratio and will take boost very well, avoid the 20V if you want boost as these get more complicated due to the ITBs

I found this bare block, is this a reasonable starting point?
portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/age-engine-block/6234661709.html

Why would a small port head be more desirable?

And as noted I have a motorcycle I can use in the Montana summers.

The block is out of a 1990 too.

If you wanna make an AW11 fast there are better ways, like improving the suspension to make it safer too.

But if you REALLY want to turbo the 4AGE you can just do it normally. AFAIK most 4AGEs types are the same with minor changes like cyl heads or fuel feeding systems or so on.

Tsuchiya's AE86 is an 20 valves non-high revving turbo'd 4AGE.

If you are fearing issues, try to get a real shitty working engine, maybe an iron piece of shit, and try using a cheap turbo bolt on to get familiar with this crap.

>looking for 200hp

Good, what's that, 8psi? 9?
you could probably just use slightly thicker metal gasket and not have to take care of different pistons/cranks/rods. (although if you want it to be realiable its a good idea to use forged pistons).

If you buy that get it hot tanked immediately, that shit looks gross af, but it's good because it's a 7 rib block as opposed to what you have now which is a 3 rib block
I actually remembered wrong about the heads, the heads you have on your current engine are the big port heads which would still be good for turbo, the smallports were more for the supercharger
The problem is you're going to have to budget a shit ton of time if you plan on doing this yourself and one of the biggest, and costliest, issues you're going to run into will be the intercooler, I don't recommend using the top mount from a 4agze because its capacity is shit, you're probably going to need an air to water intercooler and they aren't cheap

To add to this, buy that block and get it hot tanked, start rebuilding with better internals, bearings, mains, fasteners, etc while still driving the AW11, get the spare bottom end built first and when spring rolls around you can ride the scooter while working on it

It's a zx6r mate. And how's a td04 ( I think I got that right ) from a wrx for a turbo? There's a few needing rebuilds for 75-100$ around here

Scooter is a slang term for motorcycle where I'm from and yes I know there's a difference
As far as the turbo is concerned you're going to want something smaller due to its displacement, WRX turbos suit them because they're picked for their setup, you would probably need something more along the lines of a GT25 or GT28 or something along those lines

Here's some links for you the first is a guy out of Oz who knows his shit about these engines
billzilla.org/4agmods.htm
This one is from a guy in the states who's in mr2oc forums and goes by yoshimitsuspeed, I think he runs Matrix Garage who specializes in the Toyota A engine, they're in CO so give them a call when you're ready
matrixgarage.com/content/yoshimitsuspeeds-guide-turboing-4a-ge

But the first thing you should do if you plan on doing the build yourself is start accumulating the parts for the build
the problem with buying that block is you don't know if the compression in the cylinders is any good, unless the guy has the results from a compression test done not too long ago being that it's a 30 year old engine

Compression testers are well under 10 bucks.

Then he should get one and get the block then start getting parts for the build

If he's gonna bolt on i assume that he's somewhat versed in doing mechanic job and that he has his own tools.

Where did he say that? If he's mechanically inclined, then good, I know he said the engine in his current aw11 is rebuilt, but he didn't say by whom

he didn't. But since he is talking about getting parts from the scrap to do a turbo 4AGE i ASSUME that he is doing the work himself.

I here you, apparently he abandoned the thread

Definitely doing myself, I didn't rebuild the engine, but I think I'm capable enough. I'm looking at getting a bare block and building this for turbo from the ground up with some low comp pistons and hopefully a bigger cam if I can find one.

Sorry I'm just at work. There's downtime and uptime.

Don't do the low comp pistons, get the 8.9:1 pistons, especially since you're strengthening the bottom end and with a good tune it will make more power and torque

I've actually read through both of those, and I appreciate them.

Can't I just run more boost with low comp? The lowest I've seen anyways are 8.5:1

>Can't I just run more boost with low comp? The lowest I've seen anyways are 8.5:1
You can, but higher compression would make more power with the same amount of boost
Look for 4AGZE pistons, specifically the later versions from the E100 and E110 Levin Corollas because they were 8.9:1, or get the CP 9:1 pistons, as long as your tuner knows what he's doing you'll make good power without having to throw 22+ lbs of boost at it

>Tsuchiya's AE86 is an 20 valves non-high revving turbo'd 4AGE

>turbo?

To add to this, you're really going to have to get the cooling sorted out, as far as I goes CXRacing makes W2A ICs, have seen them used in publication builds and they perform well, but if you want to go a different route just Google aw11 water to air intercooler

>does this sound like a reasonable plan

I think turbocharging the AW11 is a bad idea. Why not spend the money on other things to improve or maintain the car instead?

Easiest is to get a 4agze then swap in a turbo. Thats what i did. Dont worry about smallport or big port heads.

You got me. He's running N/A, however sometimes i saw videos of him racing in a turbo 20v with standar rev limiter.

I agree. But OP really wants more power so we are gonna give it to him.

Depedning on the turbo and the waste gate you can calculate the psi you will be running. Using that you can use maths to figure out your compression rate with full boost.

Use that to figure out what fuel type you should be running and if the compression is enough. DO have in mind that with turbo pistons its not just the lower compression rate but also the forged structure allowing for higher torque and explosions.

Also, read up on how to modify the engine to take cooling and lubrication for a turbo. Dont forget to swap the injection and pressure regulator for the injectors.

OK sprout the difference between low comp and higher comp in turbo applications is where the power band is, a higher comp motor will use the boost more efficiently and have a more even powerband, but a low comp is gonna have all the topend and kick hard when the turbo finally spools

>but a low comp is gonna have all the topend and kick hard when the turbo finally spools
No it wont.

Higher compression is better overall across all ranges. Same with higher psi. Your only limiting factor is at what point the fuel self ignites and you get knock, or your engine fucks up.

Some people just want a very small turbo (about 5 psi or lower) and run almost stock or high compression and a very low spool time.

It's already in really good shape

After more reading it sounds like you're right I guess I was stuck in the past

>OP really wants more power so we are gonna give it to him.

In that case, I would go a step further and do a 3S-GTE swap.

But it seems he wants to keep the stock engine and i applaud him for that.

If we were talking engine swaps the 2ZZ seems like the best of toyota's inline 4.

Nah, the 3S is a more worthy swap and the MMC cylinders in the 2ZZ are garbage

There is only one right answer

>iron block

You see, that's what gets the 4AGE and the 3S such an outdated name.

Iron is outdated for block and head alike. the 2ZZ might have a few small issues like the faulty oil pump or, what you said, the cylinders. But those things can be fixed and you will see a small reliable high revving engine made out of aluminium that will be pretty light.

>higher static compression ratio is better for boost

You're a dumb mother fucker.

See
You stupid faggot

It is. Its just that there is a limit. Static compression on new turbo cars is at levels that would be considered gay a few years ago. Higher static equals better response.

It has nothing to do with power delivery and everything to do with structural integrity- Throw a few pounds of boost on top of something that is already tickling a 12~13:1 compression ratio and no gasoline short of race fuel will keep it out of detonation.

YOU are the stupid faggot, and one who talks out of their ass to boot.

DO I need an engine rebuild for a turbo or SC?
T. V6 mustang owner

Where the fuck in this thread have I mention CRs of 12:1 and above? Shut the fuck up already, no one cares

depends on the turbo or compression ratio you wanna use. Check up on google if people were able to use forced induction in stock internals.

So convert to propane or natural gas. Cheap, relatively available, and 110 octane.

Honestly, modern cars can get away with 12:1 and boost now, mostly thanks to variable valve timing. You basically just grind a cam that opens more at about the same time boost starts to build, so you get more air leakage out of the cylinder to compensate for the boost that would otherwise roast the motor.


For joe blow looking to put 20 psi through his otherwise stock 20 year old 4 cylinder, it doesn't really help unless he figures out how to retro in VVT and get someone to grind something custom.

Or you could always just get custom regular cams ground, and spec them out so that even at 12:1 static you're running closer to 8:1 or whatever dynamic, but then you just end up with a rough idling car that doesn't wake up until 4k anyway.

Or you just get 9-9.5:1 CR pistons and go static at that ratio and have a competent tuner who knows what the fuck he's doing make the proper adjustments
If he plans on running boost under the stock ECU he's going to be rather limited, should look into an AEM EMS that usually sell for like $500