QTDDTOT

I've found a listing for a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited

>5.7L Hemi V8
>148,000 miles
>tow package
>$4000

VIN shows all regular maintenance at the dealership, and pictures show it to be in good cosmetic shape. I've set up an appointment to see it in the morning. If all goes well, is this a good deal? Should I go for it?

What are the most reliable years of these cars post-2000s?
>mustang
>charger
>challenger
>camaro

This sounds like a car I used to have. After actually checking it out, the rear trailing arm on the right side had literally no rubber left and the left side the rubber tore all the way around.

I've only glanced at my bushings but they didn't look in too great condition so maybe that's something I should look into replacing real soon then.

Can an average car stand being driven across all of America? I mean, being driven across each and every single US State except Alaska and Hawaii. Do cars have enough mileage for that?

3 questions

>What are some reliable and trusted tuning companies?

>I hear Trifecta is actually shit. Is this true?

>Is the Buick Verano 2.0 turbo one of the best recent sleepers?

Can someone do an engine swap in something like an old MR2 to avoid any reliability concerns?
Would it even be worth doing compared to just buying a newer civic type r or comparable car?

yes, put a blacktop 20v 4age in it and it'll be super reliable

Many cars in my town have over 200k miles on them. Shitboxes everywhere. My 04 Chevy Malibu had over 300k when I sold it. Last I heard it tipped 500k.

I can't tell if you're meming or not.

Anyways I only have experience with motorcycles, I've never driven a cage.

Not memeing. 4ages in general are reliable as fuck and the BT 4age is (slightly) newer agewise than what an aw11 mr2 came with.. You could also do a 16v instead of a 20v.

I guess there is to some extent. Its really unavoidable with wider tyres and even slightly aggressive setups.

Everything is a compromise. the steup that wears the tyre the least won't be the best for regular driving, the setup that has grip adn doesn't wear the tyre will be very twitchy, and the setup that feels stable whilst providing grip will wear tyres quicker. Just gotta choose what you want most

it doesnt really matter that the blacktop is newer because the entire valve train uses lightened components compared to red and bluetops so its worse with boost and has less reliability than a red/blue or even a silvertop

>caring about boost

whatever you can ignore the boost, but a 16v 4a will always be more content with sitting at high revs compared to the 20v engines, the 20vs just make more power from the factory and have the neat fact of being among the first 5 valve engines in production cars

Looking to move on from my 02 Outback, out of Cobalt, Civic, or Accord, which one would be the best? I see they're all recommended in the wiki, but I'm really only looking for something for reliability on long highway trips.

>tyres
What are you doing?

Give it a thorough rundown. Have a third part shop or mechanic look it over. if they give it the ok, go for it

That's an interesting viewpoint I've never heard before. I mean I've heard that the oil pumps on blacktops don't like lots of time hitting the rev limiter but not that 20vs are significantly less reliable than their 16v counterparts. I get that with its lighter parts theres more potential for shit to go flying but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ then again my 20v is pretty much only being used at the track anyway

its the reason why the 4agze platform never left 16 valves as far as I know, but im not saying theyre significantly less reliable, probably not even noticable for most people since we all end up throwing a bearing or a rod before the valves ever shit out anyways

If I just want to get a car that's stupid reliable and will run to 300k+ miles what should I get? I want decent mileage but also cargo space. I don't need a lot of seats I don't have any friends.

Volvo 240 wagon.

I got a nice job and have been saving up lots of money for a nice, sporty car to upgrade from my econobox. I don't know how to drive stick, but I think it would open up options for me and might make my DD more fun if my new fancy car ended up being manual.
Would it be a waste of money to spend $2k or less on a manual shitbox just to learn stick and see if I like it for DD? Should I just be boring and get an automagic with paddle shifters to pretend like I know how to work a car?

Sounds like this may not apply to you but i got a used car that had been lowered and it handled horribly- like hard to keep in my lane at 30 miles per hour.
Then I raised it and had it aligned and it was much better, but the problem didnt go away completely until i put new tires on.

No problem. Many cars easily make it to 200 thousand miles which would be like driving around the world at the equator 8 times (in stop-and-go city traffic nonetheless)

What are some nice sporty 4 door sedans? I was interested in the dodge charger. Looks pretty nice.

>2017
>2017
>2017
>2017
Sell when the warranty expires

accord or civic
accord for comfy freeway bombing

>Would it be a waste of money to spend $2k or less on a manual shitbox just to learn stick and see if I like it for DD?
Maybe, maybe not. Thing is, the first 6 months or so you'll be learning, and then for a while it will be fun. Then, one of two things happen: changing gear will start to annoy you, or you'll hardly notice and it's just natural and part of driving a car. Partly, it depends on the car. A $2000 shitbox will probably be more annoying than say a new Miata or Civic Si.

>post 2000
>not pre 1971
Fuck off.

Control arm bushings, tie rods, etc.

The main thing with buying something newer is that I don't want to dedicate all that money to something that I'm not sure I'll like.
I was thinking it'd just be a 90s Civic or a 300ZX I found on cragislist that looked neat, not a shitbox in the sense that it's broken or unreliable or whatever.

Nothing newer? I'm looking for something I can just go to the dealership and buy new or nearly new. I have a severe allergy to stupidity that prevents me from using Craigslist.

Civic, Accord, Camry, and Corolla are good.

Is it worth spending $140 just for an app and obd2 wifi adapter to clear a headlight error?

What are the best brakes you can fit inside 15" or 16" wheels?

Fix your fucking headlight

Thanks bro, will do!

There's nothing to fix, I got aftermarket ones because the oem are $1800 a piece, it throws an adaptive headlight error now for 10 sec when I turn on the car.

I have a car with 380hp. How can I make it become a 450hp car? Is it even possible? If yes, what would be the consequences?

I found a nice AW11 on Craigslist and I really want it but I already have a fun/project car. My daily driver recently kicked the bucket and all I've got left is my foxbody product. The guy selling it is entertaining trades, do you think I could get him to take it and use the MR2 as my DD? If not, how well would an mr2 be as DD? I'd rather drive a fuel efficient mr2 over the gas chugging foxbody

I just found out that you can still get a brand new 4x4 Taco with a v6 and stick shift. Is there any reason I shouldn't make that my next truck? I have a fetish for stick shift trucks.

being a bong

this

Would a newer WRX be decent for drifting, as far as AWD cars go, or are there driver assists and whatnot that you can't easily disable?

no that would be a terrible choice what the hell. maybe on snow.
get a brz

Well it does snow in the winters here, that's why I want something awd. Also I've never seen a brz locally, the drift scene is practically nonexistent out here.

pay someone to code it out. if youre talking about a bmw hit up some facebook groups and they'll get rid of that for like 25 bucks

It's somewhat dependent on your suspension geometry.
My car's front toe is specced at 0deg toe on the front and -1deg of camber as it's the sports model.
The previous owner had taken it to some shitty alignment place that set it to the non sports setup that set the wheels at 0.5deg camber.
After I got it adjusted to the correct settings the tracking in ruts in the road got massively worse but the handling improved.

The rear tires on my car are at the end of their service life - dry rot forming on the edges, tread is low enough to spin in the rain. They're sketchy but I cannot afford to replace them right now. Pic related is from May, they've had a couple thousand miles put on them since then

I haven't rotated my tires in about two oil changes (6,000 miles), and I don't want to put these sketchy tires on the front because they'll get me killed. The ones on the front are much newer and I don't want to ruin them just to cheap out on this purchase. How long can I go before I need to rotate my tires?

Should I get a Ford Mondeo as a first car or should I just get some 10 year old german car like everyone in my country (Albania).
Link related is what Im considering (translate it to english since its albanian)
merrjep.al/Njoftimi/Shitet/Tiranë/AUTOMJETE/Makina/Ford/Mondeo/Ford-Mondeo-Titanium/4387267

If you dont want to read through the link heres the most important stuff
2011 Ford Mondeo Titanium
manual
175k km
1.6 petrol the 160 hp ecoboost one
with full service history only used by 1 owner looks in good shape
he said he could go as low as 6400 euro

Recently redid all my brakes (front ones myself 2 months ago, rears yesterday at a shop with new rotors and calipers on the rears) and I'm still hearing this weird whirring/grinding/dragging noise as I drive from time to time. It's most noticeable as I pull away from idle. I figured the mechanic would try to rope me in for another sale since I specifically mentioned I wanted the grinding noise gone. Any ideas what it could be?

You generally want the worse tires on the front, since sudden understeer won't kill you

I had a set of bald tires on the front of my Buick Lacrosse which nearly caused two accidents in the rain - the car could not stop at all unless I was using less than 30% brake power. Is this solved by just not driving like an asshole?

You can't buy a car now that will easily go to 300k. A volvo 240 or 740 from the 90s and earlier will go 500k ez.

You really should never need more than 30% of the brake power. Controlled, slow stops - not sudden, abrupt stops. If your passengers can feel you coming to a stop, generally it's too hard... Especially with shit tires.

no never wtf man

Which is easier, replacing wiper-fluid nozzles or cleaning them out?

just suck on them

>I'm looking for something I can just go to the dealership and buy new or nearly new
>I have a severe allergy to stupidity that prevents me from using Craigslist.

Christ that's a shame, you must be allergic to yourself.

Are there any coupes with a lot of backseat room for taller people?

Those tires look fine to me. Looks like plenty of tread for summer use.

Just let it do by some dude with said obd for 10 bucks

How tall are we talking? Old muscle/malaise cars had plenty of head room

Understand that modern cars are not made to last. They are made to be rather cheap to manufacture and loaded with complicated technology. But because of this, there's more of an impetus to make them better mechanically year after year (the old way was to change some floor-seats after a year and only make mechanical changes after 5-6 years). This means while you have to replace your car after 200k mi, you know that the next new car you get will be better rather than the exact same one you bought before.

These are my tires at like 50% tread life. They are Michelin Defenders.

In other news, my car is running great. There is nothing wrong with it except an issue with the ignition switch that I have been delaying my repair on. I'm really happy with how reliable this car has been so far (1999 Crown Vic). A twenty year old car and I am confident enough to be willing to go on cross country road trips with it. It's never left me stranded.

The Ford panther platform Is awesome.

I have conventional oil in my car, need to top off. My friend offered a gallon of synthetic, should I use it?

>new rotors and calipers on the rears

You mean new rotors and pads?

You need to be more specfic, does it happen at a certain speed, can you tell where the noise is coming from? Typically brakes only make noise when braking.

Both are equally a pain in the ass.

So I have to replace the lower control arm on my 2006 Toyota Avalon. I took the wheel off and looked at the arm and it looks like I have to lift the engine to get to one of the bolts. I am extremely nervous about this. It doesn't seem easy like changing brake pads and rotors...

I looked at one of the bushings for said control arm and it looks horrible, like the left side of the arm is sagging down.

So my question for this is: Do I have to loosen the motor mounts on both sides or just the side with the bad control arm? Or should I just bite the bullet and have a shop do it?

what car is this?
being sold for whats around $700
which in flipland is a sale for literally anything with wheels

bmw e34

thanks

Do you have a shop manual detailing how to do the job? Does it mention anything about moving the engine?

You can only lift the engine in certain way and sometimes you'll have to D/C the transmission as to not damage anything.

If you do change the control arm, you'll still have to take it to a shop to get your alignment fixed, so if anything else needs to be changed or repaired on the front suspension, I'd do it while changing out that control arm.

if you have any sort of mechanical knowhow buy it. E34 last good BMW.

r u sure tho

Do you think life has a meaning?

I've seen some videos with both the Camry and Avalon, which are almost the same in the front end. There is nothing else around there that really needs fixing.

The only meaning life has is the one you choose to give it.

You can mix no problem, just try and use the same viscosity

For real? I called a guy but he wanted $150 seemed like a complete ripoff

Why not make the oil super thin?

if i were to get one item to add power to my car (no induction or nitrous) would a new camshaft be my best value? i drive a stock 2002 ws6 trans am. assume a tune is going to be done as well

I´m not a expert on these cars, but usually you need to do more than swapping a camshaft to significantly increase power.
I´d suggest increasing the rev limmiter, longer duration and sharper intake camshafts and a remapping of the ECU.

Should I measure my oil level when:
>cold
>warm
>idle

obviously its going to depend on the camshaft specs and tune but im wondering if something like +50hp is at all reasonable on stock everything or am i way off base?

cold
>or at least sat for an hour
pan will have the most amount of oil in it for proper reading
>see first few posts of this thread
>too much oil= bad

it won't lubricate properly
the only reason to have multi-viscosity oils is to get it to important parts and through small oil galleries quick
where it can heat up and be more viscous
thin oil doesn't lubricate worth shit in hot environments

>50hp from camshafts
That depends on the engine and how far you want to go.
On your engine you would need to increase power by about 16% to get there, wich means you would need to go rev least 16-20% to get the power.

I would suggest forced induction at that point, because that much more rpm is much more stress on the internals of the engine than 16% more manifold pressure.

150 is a rip. you are literally just going in and deleting the code.