/CCG/ - Classic Car General

I bought a transgo kit a couple weeks ago and haven't put it in yet. The instructions are shit and I'm not confident enough to say "fuck instructions" and just start tearing into it.

Rear main?

I say do it... but i always did love the hard tops

do it. but 62 (I think this is what it is) is my favorite caddy of all time.

whoops meant 64

Cleaned up the wiring a bit, fixed a lot of broken or tied together wires

That's a '63 Cadillac and it suffers from the "X" frame problem. GM from 1957 through 1964 should be avoided.

Ran a new ignition wire but was getting no power to anything with the key on, left it there as I towed it down the street to get the exhaust welded with a buddy.

Do not recommend tow strap towing, lots of ass clenching

Fucking muffler men

they're aesthetic as fuck

also what's the problem with them

Shops are dangerous as they remind you how miserable life is without a lift

It ain't the prettiest but it will do.

This is def my favorite part.

>flex pipes on an old classic
Welp that's the first I've ever seen and I work at a Midas
That's pretty shit, might as well have just torched holes into the pipes and made an H-pipe

Went back to the wiring, turns out the battery feed at the ignition switch got disconnected from the connector. Back in business, cranked it over for the first time and years and it sputtered with some carb cleaner. Called it a night after, so damn close.

Got the grill back on and my father wanted to go out for another joy ride, since he saw another falcon parked near by, so we parked right next to it because seeing another falcon in this town is fairly rare, especially another Futura 4 door model.

I bought all the pipes and told them what to do, went from a 3.5 collector to 2 in duals, temporary but needed some flex to make the reducers work.

Besides it's nice to have a little flex so the shit doesn't crack eventually.

x pipe or no pipe

The "X" frame has poor ride quality, is weak; it twists easily with even mild torque, requires a double-jointed driveshaft with difficult to locate parts, has excessive body roll and twists the body; a death sentence for a convertible. They can even snap at the center "X" if fatigue is present; this happened on NEW cars until 1959.

damn son. that's fukt. are their any common fixes (like supporting brackets or something that can be welded in) that are available?

Anybody got an account on one of those VIN/plate check websites. Want to run a check on the celica

Shit mang, what year is that bad boy?

I had an 87, was fun but mine was also a neglected rust bucket so it was also hell.

Pretty sure it took atleast 5-10 years off my life span with all the exhaust fumes it pumped into the cabin on my 45 min commute.

One day it just decided to spit out the resonator in my neighborhood.

It burned so much oil that I'd just wait till the oil pressure started to dip to know when to refill, still chugged on though.

Good cars.

Not all GM's used the X-frame from 57-64. Only C-Bodies used them 57-58 also the Riviera used the X-frame until 1970

No its a inherently flawed design. Short of adding perimeter rails its impossible to fix.

Yeah but the H-pipe works as a support as well, only takes another 15 minutes to torch the holes, cut the pipe and weld. It's what we do at work every now and then when someone actually comes in for dual exhaust

Supports can be added; braces cut and welded in, but it's not a good design. Oldsmobile never used it, curiously enough. There's a reason that from 1957 through 1963 GM wasn't known for a performance car until it changed frames in 1964.

Sorry Buick didn't use the X-frame until 1961. Oldsmobile never used it at all. Pontiac used it 1958-60 but then went to a perimeter frame in 1961. Chevy used it 58-64 and Cadillac 57-64

89 my mang. I've posted these pics before, I haven't bought it yet but the guy took the ad down for me. He's been trying to sell it for a while and he said I could change my mind if I like. I feel it would be a bit of a dick move, but I'm in two minds as to whether I should buy it or buy an xboxhueg autotragic to daily, like a '99 7 series or a cherokee, or a suburban

>Wasn't known for a performance car
>Ignoring the 409 and fuelie bel air
But as a whole, not as much as ford or Mopar.

I just bought a tiny dd. Getting 30+mpg is really nice. Also makes me appreciate my Ford a lot more.

True but the celica is almost 30 years old, makes maybe 25mpg highway tops. Also 5spd, not super practical for city stuff, even if I do live in the country

I'm just used to huge cars and high seating, I'm worried I won't have enough space for whatever junk I pick up at the flea market or something. Hence my interest in the 'burb and wagoneer/cherokee

It'll get 30 easy. And my Fiat is a 5 speed with horrendous turbo lag, I'm sure you'll be fine in town. I am.

Do it.

Give me an offer, i would be happy just to give em to Sombody that will use them too, I'll take pictures of them if you like after I get off from work

Here is the link for the bushings
pro-touringf-body.com/chassis_components.html

it wasn't so bad. I was able to follow it step by step and have the thing done in about an hour.

nigga... you need to clean that damn metal. that's why your welds are coming out like boogers.

Your welds really aren't that bad. They look functional.

But yes, give the shit some power wire brush before you weld and practice practice practice.

1975 ford courier most fun I've ever had driving a car its not fast theres no power drivea like a turd but cruising is the most fun right now the interior is out and about to redo the seat want to one day swap 4.0 ford and turn into dd

That thing is cool, I like it. So what, is that like a Ranger before the Ranger was the Ranger?)

Can I get feedback on this ad:

houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/excalibur-series-iii-phaeton/6243627281.html

Where'd y'all learn to read? Inside a cereal box?

I brought it to a local shop to have it welded

>chad

Only thing is I'd put 454 in the title

Looks good, only other thing I would add is some close up interior shots and mention any recent services its had, and if the maintenance is up to date or not.

>>>>>>>>Chad
But gl man.

For 40 k buy an actually cool car like a 70 gto or something.

would $30 be good? With that engine swap I don't have a lot of funds to throw around but I'll need new body bushings eventually.

How hard is it to adjust a carb? There's a car I want to check out but the owner says the carb needs to be adjusted

not very to get it to a running position. to get a perfect AFR you need to either be incredibly skilled at reading spark plugs or have a wideband in the exhaust.

he probably means the carb needs a cleaning, which is fairly easy.

I'm trying to figure out why the brakes on a 1974 plymouth duster are hard to use (read: put the pedal all the way down to the floor and then some to get stopping power). I checked the brake fluid reservoir (it has two fill spots, one facing the front of the car and one facing the rear) and noticed that the rear was lower than the front. I filled the rear reservoir up, put the lid back on it, and started pumping the brakes with the car off. I couldn't find and signs of a leak on the ground around the tires nor underneath it. I then checked my fluid reservoir again and the rear bowl had lost some fluid while the front one remained the same.

I'm not sure what else to do and check for. If you can offer any advice I'd appreciate it. Let me know if you need more information.

Thanks

>Pic sorta related, that's the part but a google image

Air in brake lines (need bleeding) or fluid leaking past the seals on the master and no pressure build up (new master cylinder
Or you got some stuck to shit brakes or ballooning break hoses

That'd be great, I'll take some pictures to show you tonight, I'll give an email addy in a bit, I'm happy that they'd be going to Sombody who would use them

351m or 400? Don't let retards fool you, those engines are 351c and 460 combined and you can get some good horsetorques out of them with a good set of Cleveland heads. Just need to mill them to get the compression up

It is a 400m engine and 4 speed manual. 4x4 of course. At some point I plan on doing a complete rebuild where I will make it a 408 stroker and put some good heads on it.

Sounds good, I'll put em to good use.

Is this rust terminal on a 1990 Miata? Or is it fixable with some sandpaper and plastidip?

Instead of welding in a patch, i was thinking of riviting on a plate once i cut out the rust. Thoughts?

Other quick fixes include filling the doors with expanding foam before making new interior pannels out of wood, and using a rug (think the city rug every kid had) to cover the floor.

And instead of cleaning and rechroming the grill/bumpers (po painted them, can only assume they look like shit) i was thinking just painting them chrome.

Basically this car will look good until you actually look at it

what color are you going to do the body in?

If I were you, I would paint the body either a flat black or a flat cream and do the opposite for the bumpers and wheels. or you could do a flat black body and red for the bumpers and wheels.

White/cream bumpers, it looks good and original

thanks bud, I'll check for those tomorrow.

Just boatposting.

Well i have access to aviation paint, so i was thinking the USCG red for the body and white roof. I really want to stay away from a rat rod look. Whole point of the car (if i keep it) was for it to look nice for my wedding.

I figured worst case, i put in a few hundred bucks for parts, paint it, and turn around and try to sell it for 5-7k. By then itll pretty much be a half way good looking driver with a flathhead.

flat black with flat red are such an easy and cool color combo though. Match the wheels, find a visor and you have yourself a pretty cool little kustom you can sell.

And before anyone jumps on me for wanting to flip the car, i bought it for 2200, if i can throw 500 into it and turn around and sell it for 5k, id be estatic. Especially since there are a bunch of 60s mustangs in good condition for like 5-7k

You cant flip a 52 Ford for that much. It's just not a desirable year and it's not a super desirable body style. Especially not with the super low effort repairs you want to do

That's terminal, whenever it bubbles through, it means everything under that spot is rust.

Why did you not get the one with fins? That one looked a lot better and didn't require a full overhaul at least on the outside.

Anyone know of any sbc 350 radiator hose kits? Couldn't find much looking around

Nothing is terminal my friend. Cut that bitch up and get welding

What do you mean "hose kits" ?
Jegs and or any vatozone has a gajillion different hoses, braided, chrome, whatever for smallblocks.

>couldn't find parts for a 350 SBC
I'm afraid the stupid is terminal my friend

I seem to be having a problem with Motorcraft 2150 accelerator pump....it gives two steady streams of gas, but it doesn't START the streams when it should, on any of the 4 holes. So it ends up stumbling right after idle, but nowhere else.

Just like a full set of hoses. Mine are all old and shitty so I figured I'd get em all at once
No fucking joke, I've been googling "350 radiator hose kit" for like half an hour and I ain't seen anything that fits

Sounds like it's retarded. I mean that literally

year, make, and model please

Am I classic yet? 92' S-10 Blazer.

Front Transfer Case Input Seal is leaking and being a huge cunt. Been trying to find time to tear the t-case out and put in a new seal but work has been busy. Also have to replace gm sidepost cables with top post ones but thats on the back burner.

It's an 84 camaro that was swapped with an unknown 350 2 owners ago. I'm gonna need to get the casting # off the block aren't I

Email me @ [email protected]. (Burner email) my thoughts were that I'd send them to you first and you could throw me some money I you'd like afterwards, as I said before I'm just wanting to pass them on to someone that use em

Hmm, wonder what could cause it...the settings for the rod only seem to affect the duration of the stream, not when it *starts*

You don't NEED to mill anything to get the compression up, I'm running tmeyer pistons and thinner head gaskets to get around 9.5:1 c/r. That being said I thought I wasted my money on this entire 400 build by only getting late 7s/low 8s 0-60 until I finally checked my rear end ratio... 2.75:1

stock smoggie heads, stock smoggie manifolds(soon to be full length headers and 3" exhaust), stock everything; besides the cam, intake, carb and pistons.

I see a lot of 53s (just like mine) going for 12-30k. Hell, even half decent 4 doors with I6s go for 6k. And it already a good and solid car, just needs minor things and paint.

Because the engine was knocking, pouring out the rear main seal, and the guy wouldnt budge on the price 1 bit.

instead of riveting why not just fiberglass over it? It'll last about just as long as the bondo that'll cover either the fiber glass or the riveted patch panel. Only difference is the fiberglass is easier

>pouring out the rear main seal
Rip. Not even worth it

I mean like we parked it so i could look it over, and in the 5 mins that it sat, a puddle the size of a platter had already formed.

On the upside, drive shaft seals came in! Ill put those on wednesday.

>need to order and install new door locks and a window
>fill doors with foam and make interior pannels
>buy and install carpet
>patch fender
>new tires
>paint

Then she'll be all done!
Parts should be about $300, and a weekend to install.
Already have the paint, just need time to do it.

Email sent

fuck, working with shops can get frustrating. The key guy was supposed to get back to me yesterday, then "first thing Monday morning," then "in an hour," now it's 6pm. That's not even as bad as the glass people holding my car hostage for 3 fucking weeks while they "look for a gasket," and then when I call he says "... Ohhh, I haven't found anything ..."

I called the glass shop 3 times between 4 and 5pm and this motherfucker on the phone fucking insists the guy will call me at 5, and guess what....

whoops, didn't mean to reply