A thread for asking all the short/stupid questions you have.
>Before you type in your question here, Google it. If you can't find an answer to your question there, come here.
>Also go through the thread to find questions which are unanswered and answer them if you know.
Good day!
Previous Thread, reached it's rev limiter.
So which store is better, Autozone or Advance Auto, and why is it Autozone?
Skyactiv - yay or nay?
O'Reilly
Would an RX7 or 8 make a better DD?
Neither.
Rotaries make shit DDs because they chug gas like nobodies business and you'll wear out your apex seals faster by driving it everyday. If I were to get an RX7 It would be a fun/weekend car.
How can I figure out where my oil is going? My check oil light keeps coming on and the dipstick is always low. There aren't any leaks in my driveway and I've never seen any blue smoke on a cold start.
You just burn it all the time
Isn't a sign of that blue smoke from the exhaust? I've never seen any. Does burning oil have a distinct smell? I do notice that higher up in the rpm range it starts to smell funny, but I think I've got an exhaust leak somewhere too.
How fast are you losing it? You could easily be burning it away or possibly worse depending on the circumstance.
Look the engine over for leaks. You might have to physically feel the back of it so do it when it's cold. If you're loosing oil this fast, there's either a major leak you'll be able to see/feel, or you're burning oil
Well I'm not quite sure but I think I put in about half a quart a month ago when it came on and it went away and I noticed yesterday it was back on.
And the solution I'm assuming if its a major leak is an engine rebuild ?
>I think I put in about half a quart a month ago
How many miles per half quart, give or take?
Probably won't be an outright rebuild. Just a gasket that's worn out and needs replacing. If it's a valve cover gasket/oil pan gasket, you're in luck. But a head gasket or rear main seal is a lot harder/more expensive to fix
Probably about 150 or so I guess
OK, that's a really bad sign if it's not drooling oil everywhere on to the ground. Check your coolant, make sure your dipstick doesn't look frothy or white in any fashion, and get it down to a shop at your earliest convenience.
If you're lucky, they'll tell you it's some dumb seal that was leaking on the exhaust and that's why it all burned away and you only smelled it once in a while.
Which one should I get?
I always looked under the cap when adding more oil and its never been frothy, so coolant mixing in doesn't seem to be an issue.
I'd prefer to do the work myself, assuming its not something awfully complicated, as I'm still relatively inexperienced. I'll take it to get checked out though. Possibly when I get the transmission rebuilt, because it supposedly needs it (and I agree, theres definitely something wrong with it).
I don't know how you lose that much oil over 150 miles with nothing on the ground, but it might help to clean the whole engine off so you can see if it's coming out of somewhere obvious.
There are only so many places that oil can go.
I've heard the Fit is like a modern 90s Civic hatch. Personally I'd go with that.
also the iA is ugly as shit
I'm going to be replacing my head gasket soon.
I was wondering if there were any other things I can do to help my engine while I will be working on it.
What does WAT mean?
Women in Automotive Technology
I thought it would be something cooler
Women aren't very clever.
I'm shitposting desu
It means nothing
Depending on who you ask it could also mean WAT Automotive Technology
Don't think too much about it
But I see WAT stickers all over /osg/
wat
Exactly
Valve seals
Let's say that your style of driving is a hybrid grip/drift.
When would it be faster to grip, and when would it be faster to drift(and or oversteer)?
Grip is overrall best unless you're on a loose surface like a gravel road (rally stages)
Always grip unless sliding is calculated to preserve momentum.
I got a MB w124 200 from 87 and I've been having some problems with it and would appreciate some help. When I accelerate harder than normal(doing overtakes or maxing it out for example) The engine just sort of slows down and starts stammering, chopping and it's really fucking annoying.
It has an automatic choke or the carburetor is automatically controlled somehow and I think that's where the problem is because this mostly happens when the engine gets warm.
Any suggestions?
Can somebody answer this please?
Am I retarded?
Learning to drive manual, everything is fine.
I can upshift, downshift, reverse, all is fine except for the fact that I can't get the car moving from first with both clutch and accelerator together.
My oil is a cm too high on the dipstick, but my car only takes 3.4 quarts of oil. Should I drain it?
Where the fuck do I get started figuring out what makes cars good and not good at going fast, and on different terrain? Total newfag to racing here.
It just takes time. Go find yourself some nice flat piece of empty space and practice getting the car moving with just the clutch. Once you have that down without having to think too much about it, get it to that point where it starts moving and give it a little gas. The way I was taught is you get the clutch to the biting point and then give it gas as if it was just a regular automatic car. Then once you get moving you fully take your foot off the clutch until you're ready to shift to 2nd.
Practice makes perfect
Should I replace the spark plug wires with the spark plugs or just do the plugs themselves? The wires look fairly decent still but I'm not sure. What about the other ignition stuff like the distributor?
>motor head
>what makes cars fast
Looks and car reviews
I work at autozone and i have to say our customer service is our main draw. There are numerous things that we aren't allowed to do on paper that we do anyway, like changing headlights or diagnosis. My experience at advance is that the people working there are much less likely to help you with stuff like that. I've never been to O'reilly's
Autozone is shit, fuck those mexican scumbags
O'reilly's is always better
Are Skodas any good?
I found a 2009 Skoda Superb 1.8 with 110k km on it but he hasn't listed price and I can't ask him now since it's late. Is it even worth asking for it or is it a shit car? I dont know much about Skodas although I remember driving in a taxi one and it felt smooth.
pic related what im looking at
Old friend of my family has a z3 roadster 2.3 from 2000, not driven for a few years. Probably willing to let it go for a lot less than market value, I'm gonna offer about 4k. Is it a bit too much pose for not enough power?
WAT Automotive Technology
Theoretically yes, just google polishing and sealing aluminum.
You can test the resistance of the wires to see if they're good shape, and you'll have to take the cap off the distributor to see if its in good shape.
I used to have a z31 300zx back in the late 2000's until about 2012/13. I miss my car, and I'd like to have another one. At the same time, I want to learn more about really working on cars.
There is an 84 300zx automatic NA, and I can get it in running shape for about $250. Would it be worthwhile to convert it to a manual, and swap the engine to a turbo engine?
There are a lot of z31 turbo parts cars around me, and normal z31 parts. I can't imagine the swap would be extremely costly if I'm doing all the work.
Anyone ever convert an auto to a manual on a z31 300zx?
Manual or auto?
They had a decent amount of power for what they were back in the day, but they're not fast by any means, a lot more power than the miata or the 4 cylinder Z3 had.
If its been sitting you'll probably need to pump in about 2grand worth of parts to get it reliable.
Also they can be boosted but it will cost the value of the car.
Will an ecu chip make me fail emissions?
Nothing radical, stage one potentially. This would be put on a be golf alltrack
Manual.
Not sure if it hasn't been started at all, just driven pretty sparingly- his wife was the owner and she's unable to drive anymore.
Providing its not falling apart 4grand is pretty low. I'd jump on it but as a BMW guy I'd know what I was getting into, and would be able to fix most of my own shit.
Are ARP studs + MLS gasket overkill for a Naturally Aspirated bmw M50 engine that is stroked to 3.0 (or 3.1) ? I want finish up the engine but my dad (still lives in the 70s 80s) says i should just do a normal gasket and reuse the old stock bolts.
Why would it be overkill? If you can budget it why not? You may end up boosting it eventually anyhow.
Regardless I wouldn't reuse the old studs. I think almost all BMW head studs are TTY
Update, its actually a turbo automatic zx for $250. Would the manual swap be worthwhile?
Does anyone have any experiences with buying a car from one of those insurance auction places like Copart? If so, how was your experience? I want to get a car that is the same model as mine as a spare parts car, but mine is in a sorta uncommon color. It seems that there is one with the same color nearby, but on the site it's reported as one that was never an option.
I know that NA engines lose power with altitude, but do turbo/supercharger engines lose power as well? Are there any other negative effects on turbo engines at high altitude?
FI engines actually benefit from higher altitudes
Does anyone have any experiences with buying a car from one of those insurance auction places like Copart? If so, how was your experience? I want to get a car that is the same model as mine as a spare parts car, but mine is in a sorta uncommon color. It seems that there is one with the same color nearby, but on the site it's reported as one that was never an option. Does anyone know if I can contact them to request a color code or something? The one that I am looking at looks like the color that I need, but the lighting in the picture is kinda bad.
My 97' Grand Cherokee is fucking me in the ass. The think shifts only if it feels like it and when it does shift it's either late at 3-5k rpm or jerky as fuck. Also if I stop too abruptly or inch up in traffic or at a light the thing will fucking stall. I've noticed that I can encourage it to shift my letting of the gas like it's a fucking manual, but even the success rate of that is inconsistent.
I don't know if the tranny's fucked, if the TPS is fucked, or if the PCM / the computer is fucked. What should I do? Anyone have this issue before?
In every fucking Porsche 911, Cayman or boxter they have a million blank buttons. You can spec your 911 turbo to the max and still have blank buttons everywhere, or buy a 100k Cayman and this is what you have to look at!!!
How is this acceptable? A fucking Kia is better than this.
Can a honda accord be turned into a decent drift/rally car?
ok so buying a mx5 of some old guy, getting a good deal and its in really good condition. only trouble is the guy wants to wait a bit before selling it so he can take it to couple of car shows. Anyone had something like this happen before, and did you manage to get it earlier than they originally said? Im having this car one way or the other, but want it sooner cause im impatient. Wat do?
Depends how much cash you have. If you gut it, make it AWD and pretty much make the only thing from an accord the chassis, sure.
Drift? No. fwd cars cant be made into proper drift cars. Rally? maybe, not the best starting point but i guess as long as you have a decent engine and dont mind gutting it there would be worse starting points. best bet would be just to get something smaler and lighter for rallying, or something RWD for drift
1998 mustang gt
When i apply throttle or use my cruise control, there is is slight whistling/whooshing noise coming from my engine.
I assume its coming from my intake, anyone got ideas?
Is a BBK ever worth it if you don't track your car? I think they're kickin' rad but I'm not sure of the point. My car's 4000lbs and has a 335x28/310x18 setup stock; I think they're 2-piston/1-piston. The ones I'm looking at are 355x32/345x28 with a 6-piston/4-piston setup.
Forgot to mention - all rotors involved are 1-piece.
Honestly unless you have your heart set on the car its just better to look for one that's already a manual. Typically manual swaps on vehicles that old cost the value of the car or more.
Intake leak, or somethings wrong with your filter, or you have CAI.
If its an 87 MB odds are its not Carbed. Most exported German cars came fuel injected in the late 80's
If its fuel injected, then something along your intake, either your MAF is having problems, or you have an intake leak, or some sensor is offsetting the Air/Fuel ratio. You're not likely to get good answers from Veeky Forums; so my suggestion is finding a MB specific forum and asking them.
How hard would it be to trade in my car that's cammed as fuck with straight pipes?
What's a fast 4 door sedan that isn't a million dollars used? Looking to spend at max 14k but I want something with some oomf.
I was looking at dodge chargers and they seem to be pretty nice.
Do you have emissions in your state? Yes? then probably no one will take it off you.
E39 M5
Are these donuts or some aftermarket wheels? This thing CAN'T be on 4 donuts. Same wheels all around
They're just regular ol' steel wheels
those arent donuts, just steel wheels or battle rims.
Not oem though, right? Doesn't look factory, but I'm not familiar with sedans
They could be stock but they'd likely have come with hubcabs to cover them. There's only a handful of vehicles that you could get stock with a bare steel wheel, and usually they're offroaders like the Jeep Wrangler or FJ.
You poor sheltered child.
They probably are oem, many shit boxes come with them with hubcaps attached instead.
What are some modern low-tech cars? I hate big screens and computers in cars
This is kinda in depth, but, I have 4 wheels off of my supra that I'm not using (supra has 16in rotas because I need cheaper tires on it), could I put the camry on 14s and just run chubby tires?
kek I was thinking the same thing. how can a nigga be this NEW?
Maybe, but you'd want to make sure your brakes would fit inside the wheels. Not sure if your Camry has drums or discs all around, might have a combo of drums in rear and discs up front. Either way, if the wheel doesn't clear them you can't do it. Are they both 4-lug, or is one 5-lug?
FJ Cruiser and Jeep Wrangler are pretty low-tech in terms of their construction and interiors. Not sure about the Wrangler, but Toyota never offered any kind of touch screen bullshit in their FJ. Both are body-on-frame construction; Jeep is even more basic with solid front and rear axles.
If you're looking for CARS specifically...you basically need to go with cheap shitboxes to get "low tech". As in, buying a Mitsubishi Mirage - you'll get 70hp, roll up windows, shit radio, shit seats, cheap plastic everything, etc.
If you want something decent, in a car, I'm afraid it'll be full of the usual trinkets. A base model V6 Mustang with a manual tranny would probably be as close as you can get, but they won't be selling the V6's anymore. You'll be stuck with an expensive V8 GT or a cheaper piece of shit Ecotoot.
In short, you should buy something older if you want "low tech".
Woop, you're right. My supra wheels are 4 lug, the camry is 5. Oh well, I just want to rock these wheels again on something, they look too good to just hang in the garage
bought a Buick park avenue so I can focus on savings/investments instead of car payments.
Did I do okay?
fit probably.
Sounds like you need to buy a Supra bro. It's the smart thing to do.
Or a dank little RX3.
I have a mk2 supra, but I drive it hard and I go through tires in about 3-6 months typically, and buying tires for 14in wheels gets expensive, FAST. In just saying I have the oem wheels that I don't use on anything.
3.8?
Depends on the year, millage and condition
yeah 3.8
1995 88000 miles. My mechanic gave me the lead
How bad are those $50 walmart batteries? I'm broke af
3.8 you'll never be late
Not bad, keep up the maintenance and it should last you quite a while.
And if you commute very far everyday then even better.
good to hear. Thanks!
They'll start your car for a year, two if your lucky.
Good mileage too. Should last at least a couple hundred thousand if you take care of it
If I were to finally change the transmission oil to my shitboxes is there any reason to NOT put something like pic related to them or are there reasons to use worse transmission oil?