/MG/ Miata General - Power Edition

Has anyone of you ever did a dyno run after installing some mods on there Miata? I have an 1.6 NA and I will install my new 4-2-1 racing headers this week. I want to install an CAI and maybe catless pipe later. Any experience with his combination Veeky Forums?

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m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX5-Mk1-NA-89-98-ENGINE-1-8-litre-Automatic-158-990-miles-/332291860503?fits=Model:MX-5|Cars Type:1.8&hash=item4d5e236817:g:CuUAAOSw~XpZSRh8&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A2
m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-Mx5-1-8-Engine-/112496807931?hash=item1a31550ffb:g:-~4AAOSw-6RZeMDz&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A3
m.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-MX5-EUNOS-MK2-5-2001-2005-1-8-VVTI-ENGINE-ASSEMBLY-88800-miles-1800-/162609745838?hash=item25dc4bcfae:g:K-UAAOSwB09YC4mE&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A4
m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX5-Mk2-Mk2-5-NB-NBFL-01-05-ENGINE-1-8-litre-VVT-150-689-miles-/232388441134?fits=Model:MX-5|Cars Type:1.8&hash=item361b6e342e:g:fecAAOSwceNZUisY&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A5
dropbox.com/s/cpgsrkqbg323p2o/faggotcar.mp4?raw=1
japspeed.co.uk/mazda-mx-5-mk2-short-ram-air-induction-kit.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

miata gay

FIGHT ME on the track faggot

fpbp

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Youre not gunna see very big gains from doing just breather mods on the 1.6. At the least, youre gunna need some ecu tuning, just get a megasquirt. Also, save up and do the 1.8 swap. Its just not worth it in the long run to tune the 1.6

Also, a car with those mods should stay off public roads. Ure just gunna be slow and too loud at public speed limits.

How much should a decent 1.8 NA average around? I've been checking craigslist everyday and the only decent looking miatas are like $5-6,000+. I'm in the midwest if that helps.

I sold a decent one with 170k with a hardtop for 3800. If that helps, it was rust free but had sun fading. In the Midwest btw

If you want any serious power out of these motors without spending a ridiculous amount, you pretty much gotta go FI.

You can spend 5-10k building an N/A motor and end up with like 150 HP. With that same budget you could build a turbo car and be pushing 350+ to the wheels, which is absolutely insane for a car this small.

If i had the 1.6, id strip all the interior i could, do body bracing and rollbar, delete emissions equipment & burp tank, window wash bottle, power steering, do CAI and muffler/tailpipe. Adjustable shocks with stiff springs, lightest 15x8 wheels i can find w some sticky 205 tires, weld the diff, maybe bucket seat/steering wheel. Keep it simple/ reversible, keep it cheap, invest in mods that will carry over into an engine swap.

With all that you're probably looking at +10hp at the wheels. Maybe.

>could build a turbo car and be pushing 350+ to the wheels

*teleports behind you*
*burns clutch*
*shatters differential*
*bends rods*
*aerates your engine block*
nothing personnel kid

I don't want to lose the n/a characteristic so only a supercharger is an option. Headers+CIA+catless pipe are 600€ (~800$) for me and that's fine. From the answers so long no one did a dyno test with mods installed.

a cheap turbo set up on the lowest boost will get you 180hp at least.

is $650 a good price for a type 2 torsen?

Softturbo gets you around 160hp for the 1.6 NA. If you add intercooler and oilcooler you can start going higher.

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K swap

k

swap

>Any experience with his combination Veeky Forums?
Dont expect much if anything.
Best mod would be to take out the 1.6, throw it in the canal, then fit a 1.8.

>+20hp for $1000

wow, I can feel the power from here

>Keep it simple/ reversible
>weld the diff

Sucks to be a yank wank.
1.8 engines go for around £150 here.

Only good swap is the 1.9 from the NBFL.

I don't believe you, sorry.

Aw cmon man. An open diff is so lame. If i found two identical miatas with one being open and the other welded, im takin welded. Everytime. Besides, open diffs are plentiful and cheap whenever u wanna switch back. Welded is cheap and way more fun.

>Top Down Media
>hardtop

m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX5-Mk1-NA-89-98-ENGINE-1-8-litre-Automatic-158-990-miles-/332291860503?fits=Model:MX-5|Cars Type:1.8&hash=item4d5e236817:g:CuUAAOSw~XpZSRh8&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A2

m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-Mx5-1-8-Engine-/112496807931?hash=item1a31550ffb:g:-~4AAOSw-6RZeMDz&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A3

m.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-MX5-EUNOS-MK2-5-2001-2005-1-8-VVTI-ENGINE-ASSEMBLY-88800-miles-1800-/162609745838?hash=item25dc4bcfae:g:K-UAAOSwB09YC4mE&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A4

m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX5-Mk2-Mk2-5-NB-NBFL-01-05-ENGINE-1-8-litre-VVT-150-689-miles-/232388441134?fits=Model:MX-5|Cars Type:1.8&hash=item361b6e342e:g:fecAAOSwceNZUisY&_trkparms=pageci%3A5b5f0815-77b5-11e7-b121-74dbd1809c31%7Cparentrq%3Aa45565cc15d0abda6a66a6cafffb2a52%7Ciid%3A5

wtf I hate the US now

Lol. The fastbacks are so sexy tho. Mazda would make a killing if they started making them for the older models. Like just charge $800 and only offer them in gloss black to save on costs.

thats not the point. you can either buy an LSD for around $500-$600 or buy some miata that has the LSD in it for $600-$800, take it out then sell the shell to make your money back.

If you become a member of the SCCA and compete in one event you are able to buy a brand new OEM hard top from Mazda. It costs $1400 brand new (not sure if it is painted).

A fastback like pic related would cost more to make.

Then again, you sound like you're either underage or just stupid based on what you wrote/the stanced car you posted.

How do I transport a 2m fridge in my Miata?

k swap

This is the OEM hardtop you can purchase brand new if you join the SCCA and do at least 1 track day.

Its perfectly fine this way.

you don't

i can get one at the junkyard for

why not

I don't believe you

WUT WHEELS

Miata or 944?

FUCKING REKT

Welding the diff?? How many tires you have in your garage?

Clutch and diff upgrades are of course required for that kind of power. I dont think the 6MT could handle 350 either. But if you were somehow making 350 NA horsepower youd still need to do those upgrades obviously.

Color code on this purp? Wanna wrap mine

don't have pop-ups so when I do the miata wave I put hands at 11 and 1 and raise my open palms instead

Also, how do you guys feel when you see another Miata with the same colors as yours?

Corvette salad shooters.

Like i have witnessed a miracle. Miats are rare around these parts.

>I put hands at 11 and 1 and raise my open palms instead
I need to try this
Also zizin livery when

dropbox.com/s/cpgsrkqbg323p2o/faggotcar.mp4?raw=1

Is this a rod knock or an HLA tick? (Camera aimed on belt because originally thought it was a bearing until I found a steth.)

Winking at cute girls is my favorite thing to do on the highway while I'm with a passenger. Even better if it's a girl passenger and I can get her to make the 'call me' sign at the person we're winking at.

Am I autistic for researching the different changes between years to find out which is the best? On that same note, would 2002 be the best for a NB?

C4 Corvette LT1 Wheels

hi guys, kinda dumb question - my airbox is a bit... fucked (duct tape & gasket sealant fucked) and i have a little bit of spare cash.

Is there any intake worth buying that doesn't cost a huge amount or can be reused with a turbo?

I got linked japspeed.co.uk/mazda-mx-5-mk2-short-ram-air-induction-kit.html but i question it's effectiveness...

Or is it better to go scavenging for a non-munted airbox?

I'm in the UK.

>Also zizin livery when
Soon.

after hardtop, soft top, lash adjustment, suspension and exhaust,
assuming nothing suddenly blows up

so a Valve "soon".

also BRG hardtop on white car y/y?

...

Picking up this on the weekend, as soon as it comes here i have a 1.8 import motor to go right into it. Gunna be fun

i have the exact same mods on my 1.6 miata
I havent dyno'd it yet but it makes a difference on the butt dyno even if it's not huge gains.

Bump.

Also, yes, frequency increases with acceleration.

>Don't like how NBs look
>See a beautiful red one today
>realize the reason I don't like NB is because the most common colours are shit

M A X I M W O R K S

Who would win in a downhill touge? A miata or a wrx blobeye? (Keep in mind that they understeer like crazy)

So I have the chance to buy a Miata again, guy isn't putting it up for sale but said he'll sell it to me whenever I want for $2500
>Red '91, 131k
>Taken care of, nothing seems out of place
>very small amounts of the usual fender rust, but has been covered and repainted over and isn't noticeable
>Comes with a new top
>Needs a drivers mirror
y/n?

I would

ran a carfax on your car for shits and giggles.

>6 owners
>shows you owned the car for 3 months
>1 accident (front end) bags didnt deploy
>timing belt replaced at 74,959
>car was shipped to south carolina 4/30/1998

>Understeer like crazy
Simple fix for the miata.

I just got an ND and have been throwing it into controllable drifts after work. I found out I had traction control on lol. If I throw it with it off, I'd probably spin out? I had only drifted a 240sx previously, and with the ND this was the first time I wouldn't spin out with a throttle flutter. How to git gud w/o traction assist?

I might have a standard air box kicking around, I will check when I'm home from work, what bits is it you need all the pipe work as well?

should I get a turbo or swap?

I have the1.6 liter engine for my miata and I'm not sure what to do with it. I can turbo it and probably get 220hp before I have to start thinking about forging rods.
However I could get a vvt engine for like 500$ and swap it in and gain 50~hp very reliably.
Most of not all of the turbo parts on the 1.6 would carry over to the 1.8 when I inevitably blow it up. What should I do first?

Sold my Miata a few weeks ago and I don't miss it at all. God, I genuinely feel sorry for you guys.

If you life in America then do a engine swap. You guys can pretty much swap anything and the car is still roadlegal. Get an Honda K engine or the 3l 6cylinder from the Mazda 6

Don't feel sorry. Your miata was probably a genuine shitbox and had probably nothing done to it. I've had mine since last october and the love is strong.

Lol. Triggered much? I know about the oem hardtops still being available. I ment that Mazda should do an official fastback/hatch top. The aftermarket ones are cool but very expensive and made of fiberglass. If they did a licensed model and made it of smc like the oem hardtop id buy one in a heartbeat. Have another low n slow fagcar, jackass.

Yep, that's right. I can pay for a carfax too, you know.

It's a lucky car, not only did it avoid the early NB's thrust bearing issue, it didn't get totaled after the PO dumped the clutch into the back of something. The hood's a little creased, the bumper's not quite straight, and the passenger headlight has a broken mount, but it all works fine, the frame is straight, and the frame legs were untouched by the impact. Seems like it was just driven under a truck's rear bumper, judging by the paint damage and the light gash across the Mazda emblem. It tracks beautifully straight and handles consistently.

I discovered the previous owner's history with the vehicle as a result of a negative Google review on the dealer I got it from. The couple who owned it traded this Miata for a Ranger and the Ranger blew up. They had some kind of Christmas tree farm and I found Christmas tree needles in the ashtray. Isn't the internet great?

I went with a shitbox Miata because I wanted to actually have to fix things (I am taking automotive technology atm). The general wear and the crash damage give it wabi-sabi, the fact that it's a little worn from now 157,000 miles makes it more beautiful to me. I'm replacing damn near everything I can and we're going for 250,000mi and many track days before I consider getting rid of it.

is the 90 hp version of the NA any good?

>triggered much?
>fagcar


You probably don't own a miata or a car in general. You really are underage. and if you think $800 is a price that Mazda would sell a fastback hardtop for youre an idiot as well.

do you mean the 1.6l?

Yes its fine. but you're better off with the 1.8l it makes 130hp to the crank and a little under 100hp to the wheels

but this is a miata. The point of the car isn't horsepower.

Alright Ian?

Nice. Do you know their weight? If they are somewhat similar to the stock wheels i'd consider them.

If you can get a vvt engine for that cheap then absolutely go that way. And THEN turbo it. You will have a much better base to start with and will be able to get more power before you have to worry about the bottom end. If you plan to go turbo in the future you might as well do it right the first time.

>mfw not american
>cant swap whatever engine i like
>cant shoot guns

I was under the impression it's easier to turbo the non-VVT engines.

is google broken for you?

>If they are somewhat similar to the stock wheels i’d consider them.
do they look anywhere close to the same weight as the daises miatas come with? lol. come one. use your fucking head you fucking retard.

Corvette Salad Shooter Weight
16 x 8.5 = 22.6 lbs
16 x 9.5 = 24.9 lbs

‘94 “M” 7-spoke polished alloy
14" x 6" = 10.5 lb.

Just the airbox. The clips that hold it together broke so i bodged it for the meantime.

I'm tempted to go scavenging to pick up some bits to clean up though - rocker cover and intake manifold.

>tfw saving for a Miata
>show my mom the car I want to buy
>She says it looks pansy

She's not wrong user.

Anyone knows how easy it is to replace a NA engine bay fusebox? my main relay keeps moving around, and I think it might be time to replace it. I can't find any real guide for replacing that portion of the wiring harness.

>replacing my transmission
>going to change clutch too, kinda shitty
any place i can get a cheaper one that will ship quickly?

nice trips

you'll want a depinning tool for the terminals. Or a very thin but strong screwdriver.

If your relay is moving about that suggests your terminals are fucked and that's more of a pain

it really is a pain even attempting it to be somewhat functional. i had to tighten the box up real nicely, just so a pothole wont turn my car off.

Can't find shit on google on replacing it either, I can easily remove the fusebox entirely, but the damn thing seems to go to the firewall/tranny

found a diagram of layout. doesnt seem horrible (not actually looked at mine ha)

Okay so:

If your fusebox is loose itself, that isn't much of a problem as it'd just mean a depinning job and not crossing your wires as you reconnect it

If your components are loose inside the fusebox, its likely that the terminals have become buggered and are falling out of the fusebox/not holding the components how they should causing the issues. Possible that the plastic of the fusebox has started breaking up though.

HOWEVER if your terminals ARE shagged, you'll probably want to go round investigating all of them.

At that point, i'd just scrap the loom and get another... Not worth the hassle re-terminating everything especially as the conductors might be corroded.

oh one other thing. the relays are common enough that you'd be able to test a similar one to see if it stays in any better.

Yeah you?

I've noticed that its really just the main relay that just moves left and right, I had to use electrical tape, and pin it down so it didn't move as much.

I've tried 3 different types of relays, and they all seem to move around. Wanted to attempt to replace the box entirely, but it seems like that one giant cable can't actually be separated without cutting/re-soldering

You made me go look.

This one? If you strip the wiring out, its actually just taped convolute tube and some sleeving in places.