/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Park it in the hot ass sun

Is the engine actually a 225?
Does it have EGR?

Yuk. That shit scares the shit out of me. Fucking windows down, doors open and like spoobfeedme said, park it in the hot ass sun. Then go through everything with a can of bug spray handy.

They're one of the few bits that are legitimately expensive on these cars. My advice; buy a rusty parts car.

>spoob

I doubt parking it in the sun will work, that's how it's been for the past year or so. I'm thinking pressure wash the shit out of the outside and vacuum/detail the interior, see where that gets me

Unless someone swapped in another one, yes, the codes say 225.

>EGR?

Is this it? (Not my engine) If so, it's not hooked up

>Forgets pic

Bug bomb it.

Also, what's this piece circled in red? Again not my engine, but my car has it. Old air cleaner (old one wouldn't work with new carb) had a fitting for it but new one doesn't.

Kek. I covet a Glock now senpai. Also is there a safe way to service my C6 auto? Flush? Chemicals? What can I do.

>I doubt parking it in the sun will work,
Do you leave it covered? My Corvair is like a bug graveyard right now.

Yes that's EGR, pull it off and turn it 180 degrees, rtv the bolt holes and the sides and run it like that to see if it runs better. The connection is on the inside of the device.
Not sure, mine doesn't have that. If yours has the doodad hooked to the air cleaner that's most likely why it's hesitating.

As noted, that EGR pic is not my car. Should I just find a place to plug it in?

As for the other piece, it had an air cleaner like the pic, so it was just being sucked in BEFORE the venturies. Right now It's just got tape over it and it seems to be holding. It bolts onto the block right behind the #6 exhaust.

Pretty good chances your EGR and all of the exhaust passages for it are completely plugged with Carbon, No one ever seemed to replace those back in the day

>As noted, that EGR pic is not my car. Should I just find a place to plug it in?
No, there is no external connection to the EGR plate even though it looks like there is. When the exhaust gets hot it pushes open a valve which lets the exhaust leak into the intake manifold. The only way to stop this is to flip the whole thing 180 degrees or spend like $70 for a block off plate.
If your 225 is old though it might cause it to knock a little bit.

>As for the other piece, it had an air cleaner like the pic,
Not sure if we're on the same page exactly.
I'm talking specifically about the OSAC valve, The consensus is that it does nothing but make your engine run like shit just to meet emissions.

Why don't you take a picture of your engine?And this, my EGR was caked but still functional, blocking it off reduced some of the hesitation.

>Whyt don't you take a picture
I will when it's day. Anyway, I don't think it's OSAC, it plugged into the bottom of the air cleaner, with no valve on that end of the hose.

I'll have to go take a gander at mine then tomorrow and see if it have it. It's probably not causing any problems though.

I doubt it'd cause problems since it vented into the air cleaner and so wouldn't use vacuum,

Sounds like some crude PCV contraption. Doe you have a hose coming from the valve cover to hook onto the carb?

Kek

Maybe dump some trans-x additive in there to clean it up. Use the procedure I outlined in the last thread to flush it.

Yes, I have a true vlave-cover PCV valve hooked into the base of carb.

wow m8 you have a mutant engine or something i ain't never heard of that.

Well it has the Super 225 setup retrofitted from a 78 Aspen, the car is 71.

My turd gen has some random 350 swapped in and it needs a battery. How do I know what battery to go with? Also are those shitty $50 batteries from walmart worth it? I'm kinda broke lol

That's a check valve for an exhaust air injection system.

That was the '60s/70s solution for having too much unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust: Jam some fresh air in there and let it burn.
Or, y'know, get catalyzed.

Completely unnecessary unless you live in an area which requires emissions tests.

Just buy one that will fit in the battery tray, around 600-650 CCA

Thanks bro. Gonna need to cut the battery tray out sometime. It's all rusted out...

I'll take a look

How much is an old carb worth? I've got a couple laying around. I think they're 4 barrels

Yay, my car applies.

>1984 Jeep CJ-7
>Lots of work. Got the car for free from my mother as a graduation present, but needed a lot of new shit because the carburetor flooded.
>Been advised to sell the thing, still holding on to it because its got true character, something the new Jeeps lack.

No rust, somehow after laying in a field for years through pouring rain and other obstacles. You jelly?

Fucking shit, I'm so not used to the parking brake being in such a weird ass place, I drove all the way to a restaurant (~1.5mi) with it on, barely any resistance

How fucked is it/am I

Depends on the model. A thermoquad won't be worth as much as a period 750 holley double pumper

Dirty pieces that need a rebuild, maybe $20, $40
Clean and ready to go, it depends what they are.

>His parking brake doesn't automatically release when put into gear
Also if you didn't even notice the lack of power, that means your brake barely holds and you drums and/or cable needs adjusting.
Properly working E-brakes shouldn't even let the car move when put in gear unless you give it more gas

Probably not very.

Worst case, you toasted the shoes and drum. Did you smell hot brakes? How hot were the drums when you stopped and realized what had happened?

Best case, the parking brake cable is out of adjustment and it did nothing.

But, you should find a hard-packed dirt lot somewhere and do a skid test. Get up to about 20 mph and mash the brakes.
Put it in park/neutral, get out, and look at the skid marks.

If the rears don't skid, you should pull the drums and have a look in there to see why they're not working.

Nice Jeep, and they are easy to keep running reliably if you do preventive maintenance instead of waiting for shit to break. Parts are cheap so what's not to like?

If I didn't need pickup trucks I'd get (or assemble from aftermarket parts) a CJ-7 and mod it to suit my preferences.

→
→

Look for options to mate a T56 to it and just be done.

Also, mustang update. Got some clips and a front spoiler to go along with the new mach 1 hood

Jelly of a Jeep? Not now or ever, it's a Chrysler product

I don't think t56 mates to a bop bell housing

Am pretty jelly. Those just keep climbing in value if they're kept in decent running condition. Keep it, could turn into a piece of retirement fund.

>Sending money to the machinist Jew
But you're better off going with a tr6060 or a magnum with a built big block

In an effort to not sound too smug or pretentious i deleted that. But apparently the McLeods are really good

jegs.com/p/McLeod/McLeod-Modular-SFI-Bellhousings/2789048/10002/-1

I'm planning something that involves mounting a T56 or higher to a big block olds, and reportedly the Mcleod plates/housing combination just bolt together

also you're probably not wrong about the tr6060 being a better choice, but unless you're making ridiculous torque you're fine with just a t56, its cheaper and will handle upwards of 600lb/ft

They're both great choices desu

I still like the idea of a built 3 speed auto with a gear vendors unit. Muh drag times

Yeah, but muh mpg

>Gear vendors unit
Bruh

I'm about to send in my order to summit for my transmission swap and some other odds and ends on the Pontiac 400. Could someone look this over to see if I have ordered something wrong. I'm reusing my starter from the 403 and the water pump pulley. I've got motor mounts coming from somewhere else and the power steering/ alternator bracket. I already have a flexplate and the motor is coming with the distributor, plugs, and plug wires.

Well, i dont actually have anything to say to that... I saw 3-speed and forgot about the gear vendors part of the sentence.

Do Overdrives perform as efficiently as a tranny simply with higher gears?

Welp I sold the datsun for my asking price. Not bad considering I bought it for 1200 and never spent any money on it. The guy is kind of a cholo but at least he wants to keep it original

>>His parking brake doesn't automatically release when put into gear
Was this already a thing in 1969?

>Best case, the parking brake cable is out of adjustment and it did nothing
I'm hoping this is the case because it's been pretty weak already. Truck still stops, so brakes are alive. Have to pump them sometimes, the pedal went all the way to the floor the other and scared the shit out of me, had to kill the motor and let it stall out in an empty lot and wait for the drums to cool down

That's all it is really, it's another transmission that has a high and low.

Fun thing is that you can turn a 3 speed effectively into a 6 speed with a gear vendors.

You can also have two reverse speeds.

My 68 Lincoln has a vacuum release E-brake and I think the earlier Continentals did as well

>vacuum release parking brake

that sounds almost as awful as an electronic release parking brake.

How so? Do you think it can't be released manually?

ive heard a lot of horror stories about buying cheap transmissions from online, id do some serious research on that box before ordering

Summit has pretty good reviews on them, That's why I chose it rather than having it rebuilt by a local guy who has some pretty bad reviews on his shop.

just to add to it, Most of the bad reviews I see are from people using them for racing or putting them together wrong but for DDing my trans am to and from college I think a tci will be okay.

>clean as fuck cordoba with 60k miles for $3600
>drove from cali to texas
>the ad is from two months ago and the dude sounds 90 years old on his voicemail
fuck, now that it's probably gone I only want it more

summit have been pretty good to me. When fedex lost my electronic ignition kit they overnighted me a replacement. They've accepted some returns no questions asked as well

That's why I like summit, Hopefully that transmission will hold up if not I'm sure summit will help me out.

i have no doubts about summit im just sketched out by some of the products they end up with.
i was looking for an auto box for my truck a while back and almost bought one till i dug further into the company selling them and found out you get a big fuck you by the manufacturer when you have issues that are fairly common and that should be warranty on the boxes they ship

I'm currently reading reviews and no doubt they have some shitty customer service but on the other hand I'm not going to be racing the car and all the people saying that they are terrible blew theirs up while racing. Most of the people saying they're amazing just use it for regular driving like I'm planning on doing.

They apparently only use about 1 or 2 horsepower. It's a super strong cone type clutch. All the top guys at drag week rock them to lower rpms at highway speeds

That particular one is an AMC product.

Say hello to my NEW daily driver:

I managed to find the plates that were on the truck when I got it. I couldn't remember when it was last registered so this is pretty cool, It's been over 20 years since it was registered last.

You might enjoy this, I want to do it sometime with the orange Ford. I'll need to save up a lot of cash though

roadkill.com/tally-ho-two-english-students-traverse-united-states-78-lincoln/

So i got an offer for my 53 ferd. A 74 dart swinger with a /6. They said the carb sometimes floods, it needs an alighmment, tires, and the front grill and all put back on. They say it runs and drive. Whatelse should i look for?

Yeah; even the spitting image of my car, too.

I rememeber looking at this car before (it was raining, and ot was the guys wife showing it to me despite not knowing anything about it) and it wouldnt even turn over (no clicking, figured dead battery). The interior seemed in pretty condition and didnt see any rust on the body.

Do you think it's a good successor?

Don't do it unless you really like the car. A bodies have a pretty good after market, but the 74 is ugly IMO. 70 was best A body year.

It's an old mopar, rust RUST RUUUUUST. Check everything over and make sure you're willing to do the work instead of settling because you want out of the Ford.

This 6 looks much more complicated than my 66s... granted it didnt have power anything or ac.

The further along you go, the more bullshit they stuck in there for emissions controls and the like. 69 was the beginning of the end for simple and quick DIY engine repairs. Thanks, clean air act.

Not settling, i just like darts. Granted it is a little too new for me, but i figured why not go look at it.

How hard would it be to rip all that stuff out?

I like Darts too, I had a 65 with a /6. Great car, but unless they had rare options they aren't worth a lot. The A body was Chrysler's economy throwaway car, so just keep that in mind for future trading/selling.

Honestly, I've never had a vehicle newer than 69, so I wouldn't know. Probably a huge pain in the ass, it was all engineered in so the engine won't run right without it.

Ya, my 4 door 66 i only sold for 1500, but it was in rough shape.

Just noticed on their cl ad the title is salvage... shit. I wonder if thats why the front is off.

Also had a guy offering a 69 Nova with a 350, apart from it looking pretty rough, it had a 2spd in it.. i imagine thats pretty shitty for a cruiser.

The powerglide isn't bad, that's what my 65 Impala has. Last time I measured, I was getting around 15mpg at highway speed. You'll be cranking some RPMs at 65+ though. Good news is, they were designed for it. Not sure how it would translate with a 350 though.

...

Correction. A 71 nova.

What does your impala have?

283

I thought you were selling the 65?

The 71 nova

Nah, going to sell the Polara and the International, keep the Impalas. The 65 is pretty much done. Just need to get the front seat reupholstered and it'll be 100%. No sense selling it for another money pit. Might as well have something nice. The 67 needs a lot, it's a great cruiser, but I'll be dumping money into that for a good year or five before it's in the same condition as the 65.

Mine is made in 1984, when Jeep was a subsidiary of American Motors.

I love novas, my dad had one. It was an i6 and he did a chevy 350/th350 swap. I think eventually it had a 383 but I can't remember since he sold it before I was born. Wish he didn't sell it since I'd probably be driving it instead of my Trans am.

Spray the hood with a hose, if water ends up near the pedals you'll have to redo the wipers and clean the cowl. out.
You're ugly IMO

You don't necessarily want to rip everything out. Only OSAC and EGR reduced performance on a slant six.

>The A body was Chrysler's economy throwaway car,
Not necessarily, i'd like to point out that Chrysler Taxis were usually B body cars

>You're ugly

y-you too

>Not necessarily, etc etc

Yeah, I didn't mean for fleet stuff though, for people who couldn't afford or didn't want bigger cars.. B body is much worse for enthusiasts. It's like pulling teeth to find parts for my Polara.

Well it just rained, so i guess that will let me know if anything is fucked.

>so i guess that will let me know if anything is fucked.
Oh it will.

>It's like pulling teeth to find parts for my Polara.
I thought Satellite parts are interchangeable.