QTDDTOTT

The thing about old cars is that the owner has to be Chief Engineer and lead mechanic because no shop has the time or patience to deal with one. If you don't have a place you can work on it, or the time to do so, then you probably shouldn't go down that path.

Also, parts are bit of a sticky point in that quality sucks. Everything is made in China now and replacement parts aren't watched all that closely. In general New, Old Stock is best where it can be gotten but very little other replacement parts will have any kind of durability.

My experiences have been great. Preventative maintenance is key. The only time I have ever been stranded was this year with the K20's oil cooler lines kissed the firewall and ruptured. About at 3 hour fix on the side of the road, and I was good to go.

I always hear about how "Oh the transmission/engine/rear end/etc. blew up and I had no idea!" That's bullshit; your car will always let you know before hand (usually thousands of miles beforehand) before something is about to give.

I also get endless shit from friends about how I should just go buy a new car. But the simple fact is that the sum of the costs of my examples combined is still less than a brand new SUV. I have also gained the skill set, tools, and understand to do all of the work on my own. Pretty satisfying knowing that.

From a pure theoretical view, is staying in drive and holding the break bad for the gearbox?

I mean, it's putting strain on the torque converter, but otherwise no. It's designed for doing that, more or less.

Define classic.

The answer to that question will almost always be "it depends". Different vehicles will have differing levels of care required. Pic related. You'd have to go well out of your way to fuck up the engine in this truck. The trans is also borderline unkillable. It's slow as shit and gets about 14 mpg on a good day, But it never let me Down. That's not to say it doesn't need some minor thing fixed every now and again, but it's always minor shit. Cracked fuel line here, old turn signal relay there, Etc. Nice thing is most old car problems usually only require the knowledge of basic hand tools and some common sense.

Mazda6 Touring Manual 14k
Fiesta ST 2016 15k

Which one? It will be my DD.

Well mazda6 is a practical sedan and the fiesta st is a hot hatch. Either will be fine but it's personal preference.

why does it matter what bus riders think

Fiesta because if I see that Mazda 6 anywhere near me I swear I'll throw acid on it

Why whats wrong with the mazda

>$9 daily max without validation
does this mean i can use their parking garage all day and not enter their stores for $9?

This is a dumb question but is there any actual way to get a quote on quote """illegal""" car exempt?

I absolutely would love to own an RX-7 Spirit R, problem is, I live in the states where a 60s to 80s diesel/petrol car can run catless, straightpiped and be perfectly a-okay, yet I can't own a car that is going to produce less emissions than half the fucking vehicles we have here.

>wanting to drive cars from when they still sat on frame and suspension technology from the '50s and couldn't turn at all, but were already in the era of crippling emissions equipment and 55 mph speed limits
It'll be a pain to take any (ANY) corner in these, it'll be a pain to go over 65 in these, and they'll drink almost as much as a semi truck in the process. Absolute hunks of crap.

If you want a luxobarge with overstuffed lounge chairs, get one from the '90s. Fuel economy is still less than ideal but better, they cruise at higher speeds and they're far more maintenance free and daily driveable.

My only option seems to be writing a detailed letter to Mazda, in asking for them to write a formal letter stating that the Spirit R is something incredibly similar to something I could legally buy over here in the states. If possible, this could sort out any legal bullshit, and only require me to spend a much lower amount to converting a few things like the speedometer from km to miles.

...

Actually in case of Lincoln the '00s as well. These were solid Panther platform cars all around while Cadillac made some questionable engineering and styling decisions in the '00s.

Yes

Wow, what a beauty!

Absolutely nothing, it does its purpose pretty well, while looking better than almost anything in its class.

>get a regular rx7
>convert it into Spirit R

Problem solved

But it isn't. It's the same exact shit as taking a WRX and converting it into a WRX STi. It isn't an STi no matter how much money you pump into it. That VIN is always going to tell the truth.

The point of getting an RX-7 Spirit R is to have that feeling of knowing you own one of 1,500 ever produced. Anyone could take an RX-7 FD3S and "convert" it to a Spirit R, but it won't come close to being the same.

I'm trying to buy a fucking car from this kid but he doesn't return texts, why list your fucking car if you aren't trying to fucking sell?
>wat time tmrw could u come see
I respond with
>I could catch a ride and be back in town by the afternoon
Radio silence, follow up with
>So what time tomorrow works for you?
More silence, at least fucking tell someone you've got the fucking thing sold or whatever, don't be a God damn phone beta.

Just had to vent. Should I message this retard back or just give up? He's got a specific car that I want.

Anyone got any ideas on what this noise is? It goes away when I push in the clutch, but is there otherwise. It doesn't seem to cause any performance issues, but it bugs the hell out of me. I wanna say it's the throwout bearing, but fuck me I don't want to have to take the tranny off after just putting it on from a tranny swap.

youtube.com/watch?v=luPC8voWHV0

Did this start happening before or after the tranny swap?

Could be the actual clutch plate, could be warped, or damaged. Cause when you press the clutch the plate loses contact with the flywheel. And why didn't inspect/replace clutch components when you were going the tranny swap?

Agreed

2016 Corolla and 2017 Elantra both 13k

Is there no inbetween with engine swaps?

Do I just jump into a swap for my first time having no experience with swaps whatsoever?

No? Are you cartarded or something?

Some engine swaps are easier than others. For example you can sometimes drop in engines from the same manufacturer with only a few wiring changes.

I'm with this user, my clutch disk warped and started making noise. Not like in your video, but I suspect due to different clutch designs, you can have different noises.

you could try to swap in something electrical and have to properly splice wires. A lot of aftermarket swap companies sell whole wiring harnesses like say to go from a b series honda to a k series. ECU, wiring harness, engine+trans, all the related acessories, motor mounts made for the swapped engine and a tune. I "think" that's all you need. a swap can be done for a little as 500-1000$ or you can buy a full premade kit that's tuned and comes with everything you need, but that's usually around several grand.

What's a DDable 4x4 that isn't too big? Like a geo tracker maybe? Something from subaru possibly? F150? I dunno, need guidance. Purpose of the vehicle would be to take my supra off the road so u can work on it, but also to take me on trips to and from lakes, campsites and just generally places where I've gotten other cars stuck. 5 speed a plus.

go for a v6 tacoma with 4x4, a little pricey but it's a reliable DD and does well with a bit of light offroading

Question here:

What the FUCK do i do if the battery terminal is corroded away to shit? I cant get that bolt undone so im assuming i need to replace the entire cable. Scion TC '07 btw.

Heat the bitch up with a propane burner, then do the bolt

I found one almost immediately in my area. How hard is a cracked frame to fix?

Get a Taco like the other guy said or look for a Ranger

buy one clean title that isnt broken, the newer the better. I'd look for a 4x4 with a stick, but it could be rare and really expensive. Maybe 10k+?

A cracked frame isn't worth your time or effort.

clean it off with baking soda and get a wire wheel and wire brush in there to shine it all up then clean your terminals with a terminal cleaner and spray the red anti corrosion spray on it and you're done.

I might end up with a payment, highest I can go now is 4500. Maybe a beater in the meantime while I shore up some funds. I hate driving beater cars though, so uncool.

>caring what other people think

I'm looking for a new Grand Cheroke, preferably one with a V8. Should I go for a WJ or WK?

I am trying to troubleshoot my brother's 2006 Pontiac G6 v6. It has a constant cylinder #1 misfire which started after he drove through a puddle on a rainy day. The plugs have been swapped out. The coils have been swapped out. The Injectors were swapped out. And I still am nowhere closer to identifying the source of the misfire. My mechanic buddy recommended to do a compression test next, which I will do tomorrow with the test kit I rented from Oriely's. Any other idea? I am dumbfounded.

none of the fans for the cabin are working, on any settings. My AC is still working (I know because it's squeaky, which is a whole different issue I need to address), but the fans will not turn on no matter what settings I put it on. What is my problem most likely? I drive a 2002 honda civic that I bought for $3k

blower motor fuse, relay or the motor itself took a shit. Check in same order, to test the blower motor, take out and plug your car battery directly to it, and see if it turns on. if it does, it's the wiring to any of the components like the dials or the motor itself. get your multimeter and start hunting for voltage, or lack thereof

I'm guessing by swapping you moved the coilpack to other cylinders to see if it follows? I would run a few tankfuls of fuel system cleaner to see if it's a clogged injector. If you have a cheap mechanic's stethoscope (place it right on the injector) you can listen to the injector & compare it's sound to another one. My guess is the #1 injector is not performing as it should. Also clean the throttle body off too just to be clean.

Are Tahoes any good in snow?

What about Explorers? What year is best to get?

Nah, my dad bought brand new coils and installed them, and the problem persisted. As I said in my first post, I already tried replacing the injector. The injector currently in cylinder #1 is brand new. This is why the problem is so fucking frustrating. Everything conceivable has already been ruled out!

Was the fuel rail to the injector clean and clear? What about the wiring to the injector? is it damaged somewhere and connects and disconnects as the car moves along the road? Do you have a mechanic with one of the big fancy obd scanners? I was looking through some forums and I remember seeing one person asking the OP if they had "driven through a puddle that was about mid wheel height. Could be related somehow, but I think that thread was solved through a faulty injector.

take out my car battery? The AC blower motor above the passenger-side footwell.

I just checked youtube and all the videos say to check the "AC blower motor resistor" since that usually goes bad before the actual motor, but there is no mention of that resistor in the owner's manual.

I guess I will check if the injector is getting proper voltage. I dunno if I can do that with my multimeter or not.

Does anyone in here know if a M44 Head will fit onto an M42 block without too much trouble? looking at buying an E36 Compact with bent valves, figure it would be easier to just give it a new head and gasket. any help is good

I daily an E30 and rarely have any issues. When old cars do have problems they're generally a lot easier to diagnose and fix than in newer cars

can i mix a few drops of oil with ATF? will this kill the transmission?
>literally less than a capful

also if I ship tires to a random walmart will they install them for me if they have a tire center?
will they expect this (just walk into the tire center) or would i have to set something up?
>never done this before
would it just be better to get them shipped to my house and have my own guy install them?

literally half the purpose of having an automatic

Why do you need to put oil in with the ATF? a few drops won't hurt probably.

Why does it have to be walmart? Odds are not they'd probably laugh at you for buying anything other than the shit they have on the racks.

Get the tires shipped to your house, then take them to an actual tire shop, its what I do for my motorcycle tires.

Don't think it will, Generally BMW makes significant changes to its engine design every redesign, but you could always ask a BMW specific forum.

nah, just pull the motor out of the passenger footwell and take it over to the battery and connect somes to the terminal to test it. Thats why you should check the fuse and from some quick googling, if the fuse is fine, and you can test the blower and it works, it's probably that big bulky resistor for your motor

pic related to where to find the fuse

The resistor is usually a part manufacturers would rather a dealership replace as its usually tucked in a spot far away from the Fuse box and not accessible with out tools.

And yes usually resistors go out before the motor, replace that first.

>why u need to put oil in atf?
i used a 4L jug and i have 1L left; would like to make the extra portable but all i have are old oil bottles
>it's synth if it makes any difference
>inb4 mislabeling
I took the old label off the ATF and put it on the jug over the oil label

>why walmart?
because they're walmart tires, and i want it done fast, thought they may have some special sort of deal where u order them online and they install them if tire center?
but it's free to ship to house so I could have a shop do it
>but all the local tire shops are pic related AND take 3-4 hours for anything
might as well have it done fast
was just wondering if anyone had done this
/blog

>Post of the year Candidate

>i used a 4L jug and i have 1L left; would like to make the extra portable but all i have are old oil bottles

Then it should be fine. Why didn't you just say I need to store some ATF in a old Oil bottle?

>because they're walmart tires, and i want it done fast, thought they may have some special sort of deal where u order them online and they install them if tire center?
but it's free to ship to house so I could have a shop do it

Christ son, if they're Walmart tires then there shouldn't be a problem, just call the local one and ask them. Why do you over think things?

Why, if I want to buy a 4x4 truck from 2001 and up, does the thing need to be so God damn huge? I don't need an extended cab or long bed or endless accessories, I need wheels attached to a sturdy frame powered by a strong reliable engine coupled to a 5 speed transmission with a short bed in back. Do they not make that in murica?

Yes. Taco if you want a 6 speed and are willing to pay $30k+ or a Colorado/Canyon if you can live with a auto or a manual and a 4 cylinder 2wd. That's as small as they're going to get, Live with it. Nobody's forcing you to get every option. Base trucks are a thing if you can live without all the fancy shit.

I looked around and yes you can get base models, which is cool. But I only really need hilux levels of truck, with 6 cylinders and 4x4, why all the hugeness?

Fuck me, I'm almost being forced into looking at crossovers or suvs or whatever the next size down is. I don't haul construction shit constantly, there's no point in a full sized truck and mediums don't seem to exist.

You can thank CAFE and emissions laws for that.

How much to import a ute, and will it be cubed

lefthandutes.com/

Is it worth spending $40 on race fuel to get my octane up to 94 from 91? The manufacturer claims peak performance is with 94 octane.

I realize you've answered me than enough questions, but does toyota make a small truck like that? Or are they toyota trucks, rebranded? I just want the toyota pickup to be made today

it rained like FUCK here today. flooded the shit out of everything. plenty of my friends cars were halfway submerged. everything is shitfucked into oblivion.

i just got home now after the water has gone down to find that my car has also been slightly flooded. you can see the water line, goes up a little over halfway up the tires, as well as inside the doorwells, and my carpeting seems to be slightly damp.

worst part is, i can't even check my engine out to see if it got flooded because it's dark and it just started pouring again. and also i can't get it to higher ground, because i don't want to crank it up until i can check things out.

first question is: is insurance likely to total my shitbox after this? assuming that the engine is fine, and the floorboards getting wet is the extent of the damage

another question: i can't do anything about the damp carpet now, but when i can, how do i go about drying it out? is mold gonna be an issue too? i remember when hurricane rita hit our house flooded just enough to wet the carpet, but we had to get back in there asap and start tearing out carpet before mold set in an started fucking shit up.

sorry if my post is hard to understand or dumb or whatever. i'm just real miffed about this. i just busted my ass fixing all sorts of things on this car myself and if it gets fucked from a little flood water i'm gonna be super pissed. pic related. it's my beloved shitty old shitboox.

Remember you need three things for proper detonation: Fuel/air mixture, spark, and compression.
So if you are sure you have ruled out the first two, then you need to confirm the last one.

You can look for octane boosters at a parts store.
Do a little math and calculate how much you need to get to that octane level.

No higher than that, the engine and trans are likely fine.

The problem you'll have with the interior is odor. The sound deadening material called jute stays wet for a long time and bacteria grows and then dies causing the odor. The fix is to remove the seats and carpet. Take the carpet to the car wash and wash it as long as you have it out anyway. Then throw it out in the sun to dry. For the jute you find out the thickness of the original as you're chucking it in the trash and then find a carpet store that has the thickness you need and cut it to fit. Then reassemble.

if someone "swaps" their transmission or engine does that mean the one they installed is used

Usually. It is possible to buy some engines new but that's much more expensive.

Opinions on a 5 speed subaru Baja?

yeah I checked the fuses they're good, and on my car the resistor, which the owner manual refers to as a "power transistor", is not giving me the correct impedance. It said measure two terminals to read ~1.5k ohms but when I read the impedance that number was way off. I went to autozone and waited 40 minutes in line for them to tell me they have to deliver the part, so I'll wait and see tomorrow.
I am not sure why my owner manual calls it a transistor but at autozone the computer had it as a Blower Motor Resistor. Transistors and resistors are totally different components so I wonder why they use them interchangeably.

Thanks for reading my blog, and don't forget to give me another (You). Also check out my YouTube channel and follow me on Veeky Forums and /g/.

ahh, yeah i was dreading having to rip out all the carpet but i should be able to do all that, as big of a pain as it would be.

also i'm sure some water must've gone into my exhaust pipe. is that something to worry about to, or will it all just blow out or something when/if i start the car up?

What happens if you buy an older car that sells for way over NADA/KBB value gets hit and totaled by another vehicle?

Do you only get the NADA/KBB value?

I've always wanted to buy an NSX but afraid that if someone hits it I could be out of $20,000

What are some rev happy cars these days? Preferably no Honda Civics. I have nothing against them and I'd love to get one but I'm starting a new job in a shitty part of town so I'd rather not have to deal with it being stolen.

Any drivetrain works, as long as its commonly available in manual. Trying not to spend more than $3000. Fuel efficient is a must. I'm trying to get something to use instead of my gas guzzling Mustang.

I just want something I can rev the shit out of and daily drive.

Yeah good suggestion, the racing fuel is super expensive

get a civic si

try a civic

FXGT is a relatively unassuming car that you can rev the tits off it for fun

Alternatively (AE92's are still easy to break into) try the AE100, its a little more secure.

I wouldnt advise an MR2, well known for being reasonably quick RWD cars which makes them a target. and theyre easy to break into.

Racing fuel is usually the same price as premium gas Because it has no tax on it.

However if the taxman gets wind of you using a non DOT rated/taxed fuel youre going to get mercilessly fucked.

...

Cant ye just jack it up and throw it on blocks or axle stands? get alteast a extra 6 inches.

i would if i could, but i don't have anything to get it up on.

plus, it's parked in the street (there's nowhere else to park it here) and knowing the parking enforcement assholes here i'd be risking a ticket or having my car towed if i did try to elevate it.

Yeah but chrome c pillars are nigger tier

*b pillars I hate my life