Transmission fixes

What are some cheap/easy fixes for my car's jerky transmission before I go replacing the whole thing? It's a 700r4

>gm
Throw it in the trash and start pushing

Shut the fuck up pendejo

What about changing its oil ?

you could fix it by getting a civic and shutting the fuck up

>t. fatass
Kys

check the fluid level.

how/when is it jerky?

It jerks when I shift into drive and real bad when I shift into reverse. Also jerks when I let off the gas. The fluid is bright red and at the right level

Check the vacuum lines leading to the trans. If you have a vacuum leak the shifting will get really harsh.

nah maybe you should though since you are so poorfag you can afford a car with a GUD transmission

>implying honda trannies are any good

How do I identify those? Just rubber hoses going from the trans? I'm pretty sure the cooling lines are metal

You're either spending money, or putting Lucas StopSlip in, and spending money later.

i drive gm tho

check m8

on fords it's a single rubber hose that leads to a vacuum diaphragm. It's probably a similar setup on a chevy of that era.

700R4's have Throttle Valve cable that runs from the Throttle Body down to the trans which gives the engine load information to the trans for it to modulate shifting by increasing or decreasing internal pressures. There are no vacuum hoses on that one.

Assmad GM fangirl detected
I'm not looking for bullshit fixes. Just want to check and fix other stuff before I pull my transmission. See if that helps

You know what else could cause problems with a 700r4 besides being totally fucked?

CHECK YOUR FUCKING SOLONOIDS, DROP THE PAN AND CHECK THEM

>Honda automatics have been shit since 2000
This is the one time getting a Civic will not help.

>i drive gm tho
>thinking this is a good thing
tripfags should be B A N N E D

Drop the fucking thing and get a rebuild kit.

Why the fuck should he jump straight to the hardest solution? What if it's just some finicky bullshit that's causing problems?

>Old jerky GM transmission
What, do you think you can update firmware or some shit like some shitty ZF 9-speed?

Actually I'm wondering if it's the trans at all. Symptom sounds more like excess driveline slack cause by differential case wear at the spider gear shaft. Happens all the time on GM trucks.

Really? There a decent way for me to check?

put the vehicle in park and see how much it will move forward and back

You'll have to get the truck situated such that there's no pressure on the driveline. I usually did this on a lift so I don't know how you'll do it specifically. Once you've got it set up then you get under it and rock the driveshaft back and forth looking for slack. Worn u-joints could also cause the concern now that I think about it. Anyway if the u-joints check out and there's about and the driveshaft lets you rotate it some with a noticeable clunk either way then you know it's in the diff.

To confirm it's the diff case/carrier you'd have to pull the back cover and rotate the driveshaft until you can see the end of the spider gear shaft and then rock the driveshaft back and forth looking for free play between the shaft and the case. Should be none to speak of. If you can visibly see the shaft moving in the case then it's fucked. Good news is that it's just annoying as hell and not likely to cause a catastrophic failure.

I'm thinking maybe I'll pull the cover off the diff then to check. At the very least it'll get fresh fluid. What're signs of bad u joints? Cracks?

>What're signs of bad u joints?
Free play, rust.

If you see a u-joint with red powdery rust around the area of the cups be very suspicious.

As for free play you may have to get in there with a pry bar of one sort or another. Check for both directions of travel. No free play allowed in u-joints. Also you may want to disconnect the driveshaft and check for binding in the u-joints. they do that too. They should move smoothly and easily.

Oh and looks like a bad pan gasket leak. May as well fix that while you're down there. Might get another trans mount too since the fluid ruins the insulating material in the mount.

The leak is actually from the most retarded thing I've seen in my life. The previous owner must've changed the fluid and not put the pan on all the way, one of the bolts is halfway off. Definitely gonna see what I can do with this shit, thanks man

Kys underage summerfaggot

Hey also look out for loose torque converter bolts. And stop putting it in drive while rolling backwards.

My transmission in my accord was jerking like shit going into reverse and drive

Ended up being the transmission mount, that and my engine mounts were fucked but the transmission was the worst.

Did you replace them all?

>Hey also look out for loose torque converter bolts
Will do
>And stop putting it in drive while rolling backwards
Lol I don't do this

Change filter, replace as much fluid as you can, use Lucas transmission fix. It takes a while for the Lucas to work it's magic, but it does.

Yes. Didn't shift like shit anymore.

Liar

>It's a 700r4

Buy a new car with anything else for transmission.

Adjust TV cable according to manual, replace vacuum modulator, check the governor on the drivers side of the trans to see if the gear is worn at all if so replace it, drop pan and replace the filter and check for chunks or debris in pan.

My dad's Buick did that when it had a broken motor mount, check those

Also as others said, replace the trans mount, pick one up from energy suspension and go to polyurethane.


If it ends up being fucked, rebuild it, ignore faggots knocking on the 700r4, have a good place rebuild it and use a quality kit and new torque converter.

Or, drop the dosh and order yourself an ATI/TCI TH350/TH400 if you don't mind losing overdrive.