To/o/ls

Now, I don't know anything about geometry, metallurgy, hydraulics, mechanical engineering, physics, zoology, biology, geology, geography, marine biology, crypto-zoology, evolutionary theory, evolutionary biology, meteorology, limnology, history, herpetology,palaeontology or archaeology, but i would guess it stopped jacking up.

Solid tools with few moving parts such as jacks, shop presses, wrenches etc from harbor freight are fine in my experience.
Just stay the hell away from their power and air tools.

The rubber seals often are kill and it leaks the hydraulic fluid used to lift. You could probably rebuild them with fresh seals and fluid and it would work again.

Quick question:

I plan on changing my exhaust tomorrow in my driveway on ramps. The driveway is not perfectly level and is made of pavers. Should I try to find another place? At most there is a couple inches of elevation change between any two tires

>i would guess it stopped jacking up.
I was worried about it collapsing under load without warning versus a gradual wearing out with warning signs.

>it leaks the hydraulic fluid used to lift.
So it's a thing with some warning and I don't have to worry too much about it dropping the vehicle?

you should never work on a car with just a jack holding it up

jack the car up and put a jack stand under it so you don't die if it fails

You jack it up and it goes down as fast.

Use wheel chokes

this

also, buy name brand jackstands

that aluminum jack that everyone has from harbor freight is gud though. if you work on your own car then the autozone duralast jacks only hold up for about 6 months before your car starts creeping downward as you lift

This Most of the time the jacks die out gradually, but you are supposed to raise it and then put the jack stands under so the stands are supporting the car if the jack decides to blow out.

wrong, you need to set the levers on the jackstands and place the weight of the car on the stands, leaving the jack as a backup

Yes, like I said, so the stands are supporting the car.

agreed my car fell off one of these

Did you die?

Yeah these things suck ass. A few years back my dad got one to work on our project and it fell off since the contact patch is so small, so he went and got a 3 ton from harbor freight. We use the 3 ton to lift cars, and use the 2 ton to do stuff like hold disconnected brake calipers in place or lift up on heavy parts.

Save up for a lift, nerd.

I'll need to save up for property with a garage, first. I'm buying my own jack and working out of someone else's garage.

It's probably worth it, they probably reverse engineered a Milwaukee since that looks remarkably similar to me M18 FUEL High Torque Impact wrench. I got mine for $200 total + tax, but only because I abused promos and coupons at Home Depot. This version probably not as good as Milwaukee, but should be close enough. IMO if you need one you should go ahead and get one if you think you'll ever use it. There was a cross-threaded/seized lug bolt that it had difficulty with once, but it eventually got it out and I didn't have to use all kinds of crazy shit like 15 foot cheater bars and angle grinders and dremels and shit.

Just a pointer, though - look up the 20% off a single item coupon that harbor freight ALWAYS has and save yourself an extra $50.

are Harbor Freight torque wrenches any good?

Also, do NOT use the standard chrome vanadium steel sockets with one of these things - at 1000+ ft/lbs of impact at hundreds of impacts per minute that shit will shatter. There are thick-walled Cr-V impact sockets as well, those are probably fine although some people insist on Cr-MO.

Good enough for lug nuts and general use all around the car.

I wouldn't use one for torquing down head studs or anything though.

what would be a good one for use with head studs?

You think a peice of wood will suffice as a chock? I don't have any purpose built plastic ones

>You think a piece of wood will suffice as a chock?
yeah, you good pham

just remember to jack up the front before the back when you are putting it on jackstands

Wut about those Craftsman Micro-Torques or whatever they're called? They aren't HF cheap, but not ridiculous either. And since it's Craftsman, you can find them on sale for close to 50% off a couple times a year.

Here's the axleback

And the x pipe

Ah shit, I can save that much? Damn, thanks for the tip! Sounds like I'll make the purchase once I'm there

No worries on that part - got two sets of Cr-MO's; any relevant size between and including 13mm to 46mm

>pavers
I wouldn't trust them 2bh. One could just cave in and tip your stand over. Just do it on the roadside like a Mexican would

>dat Arcan

Ingersoll Rand or better impact gun
Die grinder
Breaker Bar
Magnetic pickup tool AND claw pickup tool
headlamp
Earplugs
A good tire pressure gauge
Slip joint pliers aka channellock pliers
Big ass pry bar- best I've see is a guy found one crew's use to remove sewer grates

*Trim panel removal tools*

I can't stress this enough even my harbour freight set has lasted 5 years and i just ripped my door panel off to hook the lock up that popped off for no reason

mustang?

>Breaker Bar
>he doesn't have several PVC pipes that are cut to different lengths

I'm not using stands I'm just going to back the rear tires up on the ramps and go to town with my socket wrench

a piece of wood should be fine then since your e-brake should keep the wheels on the ramps. stands would be treated differently

Yep, it's a Corsa sport catback I got for a steal from a vendor on the forums. 33% cheaper than any of the big guys

I figure with the e brake and putting it in gear (reverse) the chocks are extraneous but welcome because safety comes before brap brap

cool. I got the roush axle-back and an h-pipe for my '14 GT. Best of luck! I will only take about an hour.

I'm changing out my oil pan gasket...this torque wrench should be fine, right? I only need ~10 ft lbs

You may want to look into one that's calibrated in in-lbs instead of ft-lbs, if that isn't one there.

IIRC, there's a certain percentage of accuracy at either end of the range on a torque wrench, like in the bottom 30% of the range, accuracy is +/- 10% indicated reading, in the top 30% it's +/- 15%, style of thing.

With a ft-lb wrench reading on the extreme low end of its range, you could very well significantly under or over torque whatever it is you're trying to tighten.

Steel bolts into an iron block, not so much of a concern. Small steel bolts going into aluminum, more of a concern. You could warp the pan if you over torqued it too, but if it's an aluminum one and not a stamped steel one, that'd be pretty difficult to do.

I only know this because I at one point needed something like 180 in-lbs on 1/4-20 bolts going into an aluminum transmission housing and got really, really paranoid about stripping bolts, since they were holding on the valve body.

Harbor freight makes decent heavy steel tools. I'm using a harbor freight engine hoist and a quarter ton engine stand. I have some other brand jack stands but they've served well. The hoist was maybe 150 and the stand 47 dollars. I love harbor freight.

Just eyeball it by hand, 10 ft/lbs can easily be estimated using a little math and some feeling around.

thirded

I've got a harbor freight jack that's held up from about a year of frequent use. Gonna be buying a transmission jack from them when the time comes

lol user

These things blow. Total garbage. I ended up using my scissor jack over one of these

Most of my mech tools are from harbor freight, they all do the job well and are of good quality. Just recently grabbed the 3 ton floor jack they sell, works awesome and pumps the car up fast. I have craftsman jacks but I'm sure the ones they sell do the job fine too. Go for it OP, you'll be surprised how cheap their stuff is and it all does the job.

>she doesn't just use the breaker bar that came free with her jack

Can I use some tools from harbor freight and return them afterwards?

...

Not sure but you can do that at Walmart just fine.

lol same, my factory mazda scissor jack lifts the car with 1/4 of the effort it takes to lift the car with a mini floor jack.

I had the husky version of this and it made me want to hang myself. It wouldn't pump unless you used the full stroke of the handle. this made it impossible to use under my car. I bought the low profile 3 ton from harbor freight and I couldn't be happier.

Why? You're gonna need those tools again

What's the difference between these jacks?

What is Veeky Forumss opinions on bottle jacks?
My exploder came with one as the spare tire change jack but its old enough I probably wanna replace it, never used one on a car should I use it or just get a scissor jack?

I just support my car with whatever's handy to me.
Tree stumps, logs, milk crates, tires, rims, boulders, random debris that's large enough, etc.

I haven't died yet.

>if the jack decides to blow out

Yeah but you made it sound like the stands are the backup and the jack is the holding device

Idk however you wanna butter your bread. I always drop the jack right to the stands, so the jack is still touching the car but the weight is pretty much all on the stands.

At least that's how I learned spending my late teens smokin blunts in garages and watching people fix cars. I'm still alive today so I guess it works.

>Hey Bepis! You wanna learn how to use the spring compressor?
Yeah sure, hold my beer!

Obnoxiously tall, an unextended bottle jack is the same height as an extended scissor. That's fine for trucks and bottle jacks can often handle huge tonnage for cheap but they don't expand very high and they put all the load on a small foot area so they are less stable than desirable.

>milk crates
What do you drive?