Some other, totally unrelated problem arises just after you fixed one thing

>replace transmission oil and old engine mount
>car now cranks, but doesn`t start

Geee

These threads are always comfy af and worth a kek or two

>hit curb
>check fuel cap lamp
am i through

>car has problem where it starts dropping speed and RPM, motor basically just seems to stop even with the throttle pressed in, on flat asphalt
>install relatively new engine in car after the old one dies from wall wear, hope old problems go away
>problem still follows me from the old engine
>no codes
>no fucking clue what's wrong
>oh and lmao still got a short in god fucking knows where that pops the fuse for half the lights in the car + AC any time you open either door while the key is in/car is running
It's little shit like this that drives me up the fucking wall, Veeky Forums.

>cleaning car
>scrubbing bugs off car window
>window cracks in half

oops

>holding the RPMs just right so everything plastic doesnt vibrate

Shitty tires user

>car drops RPM
>new engine

Either fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, or clogged lines. It's amazing the shit that a dirty fuel filter will cause.

>fuses popping
Just pop off your door cards one by one and look for the shit stains.

>close left door
>passenger window won't open/close
>open left door slightly
>passenger window works perfectly
broken wires are my hell

This is actually the first time I've ever gotten some solid advice on what to look at for this, thanks user.

>parking
>engine stalls
>don't have to turn off the engine anymore
mfw

>Most reliable engine of the century & only engine ever approved for use in a plane by the FAA starts ticking.
>Think it just needs valve adjustment (valve shims)
>Turns out one of the spark plug ground electrodes broke off.
>mfw no CEL
>mfw no noticeable decrease in power.
>mfw drove it this way for 1.5 years.
>mfw engine sounds like new after replacing spark plugs.

having a 3uz, this is a comfy feel

3uz is guud, but 1uz-fe VVTi is GOAT and only FAA approved model.

i know the cylinder sleeve spacing is larger due to smaller bore in the 1uz, but the blocks are identical otherwise, aren't they? 3uz also has vvti

Yes, identical blocks. 3uz is considered weaker due to sleeve spacing, and weaker connecting rods.

>weaker connecting rods
huh, i didn't know this. i've never heard of them throwing rods, though. just negligent owners not replacing timing belts and fucking valvetrains.

Each generation Toyota made the rods weaker, and yet increased the power output. They don't tend to fail, but I know people like earlier engines when they turbo them.

lighter rods for higher redline? either way it would make sense to upgrade the bottom end for durability when adding forced induction, or better yet just go with the stronger block, but that's fine by me since i'm boring and just want a reliable engine

Owned an 85 carbureted Camaro.
I know this feel.
Didn't hurt that I couldn't leave the damn ignition system alone.

No,shitty everything.

Oh fucking hell, this got me good.

>car keeps leaking oil
>bout a quart every 2k miles
>probably a front main seal
>dad says he'll put some oil in it for me when I'm at work trying to be helpful
>come home and drive it down the local toe gay
>shit starts smoking and smells like burning oil
>open hood
>oil
>fucking
>everywhere
>mfw he forgot to tighten the oil cap and it came out

>hit bump
>tire pressure light comes on
Pretty sure my sensor is gone

Might be because the tire pressure becomes to much, because the tire is being squished by the bump.

>replace shitty plastic gear in window motor
>door cards now rattle at idle

>fix bose amp in driver door
>desolder old relay on board/solder new one in
>passenger side goes out

>Right-front speaker rattling
>Remove door cover
>Stops rattling
>check clearances
>put cover back on
>starts rattling again

REALLY RATTLES MY JEREMIAHS

That wasn't a bug it was a feature.

Just take the bulb out, tpms is awful if you're not a soccer mom who can't remember to check her tire pressure at all

Two years of:
>DS Tail light burns out. Replace
>DS brake light burns out. Replace
>PS brake light burns out. Replace
>DS Tail light burns out. Replace
>PS Brake light burns out. Replace
>L Plate light burns out. Replace
>DS Tail light burns out. Replace
>L Plate light burns out...
>FUCK THIS SHIT! NO REPLACE!!!!!
Nothing else burns out for 6 years.

That's why you're supposed to replace in pairs, if one is out the other bulb that gets used the exact same amount isn't far off.

...

a feature for the Mini stealership to quote me $1300 for a new windshield plus $140/hr labour for 4 hours h-haha

guess I'm just gonna get a generic windshield, then

Welcome to wrenching, faggot.

Same goes with most other things, really.
Sometimes it's not so bad, any excuse for an upgrade.
>Oh noooo
>My shock blew
>noooo I'll have to buy some koni's....

This is normal

>roll window down
>headlights dim slightly

>ride bike along in an rpm range of like 150
>handlebars feel really buzzy
>doesn't happen at any other rpm except that range

>4 years ago changed my rotors on my ranger
>find out my wheel bearings are part of the rotor
>rotors have races in them so I just reuse the bearings cause I already hit my poorfag budget at the time with the rotors and pads
>lube um up and finish the job
>3 years later start hearing weird noises I can't identify
>few weeks pass one morning going to work making a left turn
>god awful sound from the front end and feel a grinding feeling in the steering wheel
>limp it to work and shake the wheels and see my bearing is tucked
>limp it home after work and replace bearings races and seal on that side tell the weekend to get me by
>but wheel bearing won't tighten right I can't get that sweet spot its either to tight or to much play
>get it to a point I feel okay with it
>no more weird noises no grinding but when reverse and turn right and hit the brakes I hear a grinding sound from my steering and the brake pedal pushes back
>figure its the bearings adjusting
>continues for about a month
>finally rip the bearing apart to find out what was going on
>shaft is fine bearing is fine rave is fine everything's there so I do what the duck is going on
>sit there for a bit staring at the shaft thinking what it could be
>get a weird urge to stroke the shaft cause "haha its a benis :DDD"
>was a little drunk so it seemed funny at the time
>as hand hits where the shaft meets with the spindle something comes loose from the spindle
>blended right into the spindle and wasn't very thick
>clean it off and flip it over and it turns out its an old tucking seal
>some fuck before me left a seal on the spindle and didint take it off and it was pushing the bearing assembly out just enough to screw with the alignment but not fubar it
>throw that bitch away and throw it back together and the bearing sets like butter on the first try
>mfw some dumb mexican before riding bother checking for the old seal
>mfw I was driving my truck like this for 4 years

someone used my side mirrors to wipe their ass after they finished taking a shit

>Seal a leak in the fuel tank and replace the petcock on my bike
>Starts revving at 4,000 RPM at idle

Jesus fuck why.

>Replace carb float valve and needles and intake o-rings for good measure
>Idles fine but now has trouble starting

I have the worst luck with carburetors I swear

>switch indicator on
>headlamps dim slightly with each tick
not bad for a slav

>mini

Keep windshield, replace car.

Wheres the springs?

top centre of the picture

But why is the shock so long then?

don't know
only a few types have the spring so high above the upper control arm

>fit larger wheels
>speedo remains the same
1/2" wider diameter with tyres

getting rid of it in a couple months for a miata

Most places, insurance replaces them for free.... If you have full coverage

insurance doesn't pay out until the damages surpass $1000, and I pay $269/mo

>Shift into any gear
>Makes a plastic rubbing sound