/mg/ miata general

Will 205/50/16 tires fit on a NA miata?
I already mounted 205/55/16's on the rear. Upgrading my 205/45/16's on the front would even it a bit out.
I'm worried it will rub though. It's not lowered.
Also: post tires for Miata and Miata general.

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=1RM7qfje__U
vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata-170km-with/6267332575.html
strawpoll.me/13726973
albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata-1stgen/6264462514.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

hey thats a sexy little car you got there and she it will fit bro man no worries

Yes I ran 50s in the front on stock ride height and had zero rub

205/50/15 yokohama s.drives on 15x8 6uls. tokico illuminas, flyin miata springs and rear tophats. No rub

Goddamit man

not to bitch but on 15"s that's stock tire diameter.

Kek

love your rims. But are they 15? or 16?

BEGONE AUSTRALIAN

Mah car is leaking oil through the CAS, i'm ordering a new ring asap. Question is, what is the best way to clean this filth?

Is the miata i4 a better indy offenhauser engine? ... what if I could buy an offenhauser engine, would it make my miata better? Hmm

So what? Its more than enough rubber, especially for a summer tire. I dont do dumb shit like burnouts or rubbing curbs and the tread wear rating is 300. A smooth, quiet and grippy ride with as light, cheap, and strong a wheel as i could find. What size would you be on with a 15x8?

I need to know if bigger tires, 205/50/16's will fit.
Although i also asked about miata rubber in general so your answer was technically correct and relevant.

brake cleaner

Take out your fender liners. All they do is trap water and dirt and block you from cleaning out your front fenders.

>92 miata with a (probably) 95 engine and transmission
>aftermarket glass soft top
>aside from that, everything is stock and needs no work
>3500 "or best offer"
oh geez i really want to do it and finally get a miata but I really have no idea if I should or not

Have you guys used braided brake lines? What about hawk hps pads? How are they? About to pick up some brake parts. My Miata doesn't see much autocross/track. I just want a street pad with more bite for the canyons.

3500 ain't bad for that in my area

195/50 on 15x8.5

How do I get a decent 1.8 miata for 2k God damn it

either you don't or you get lucky.

Thing is, I don't have 3500 to spend on it. My budget is like 2500 with wiggle room and I have no idea how to haggle. The only cheaper options in my area are ones that either don't run or shouldn't be running.

I'll add that I can free up the money to buy this thing or make a decent offer, but I set a budget for myself and I really don't want to blow it but at the same time, I have no idea what I want to do right now.

I don't think I've ever seen v6 miata swaps as a thing, or straight 6. Why?

They make swap kits for Honda J engines and Jaguar V6s, and I've also seen KLZEs, VR6s, 2JZs, and RBs in them.

Well dang. I'm getting ahead of myself, it'll be a solid 1k+ just to add 10hp with I/H/E.

>I don't think I've ever seen v6 miata swaps as a thing,

its because you didnt even bother searching

youtube.com/watch?v=1RM7qfje__U

I merely sought to generate discussion

i think I'm gonna buy an NC miata next year and drop 15 or so grand on it to swap in a 2.5l and supercharger + some other mods. Does 15k sound like a reasonable budget? It's like 3k for the engine, 5k for the supercharger (flyin miatas SC, but I'm not 100% if that works with the 2.5 engine), couple grand for suspension and tires and the rest for whatever.

you might as well just buy a secondhand corvette at that point

i dont want a corvette. i want a miata.

You're gonna drop 30k all in and end up with an ugly, worst gen miata with 300 whp.

How about I generate these nuts in your mouf you poofta

better than my alternative, which was to buy an rx8

Tell me about wheel upgrades

So I have a 1.6 and I want a 1.8 engine to put in it. would it be best to buy the engine from a junker or buy a 1.8 donor car from craigslist? I am going to be taking the engine to a machine shop

15x8 Enkei RPF1's or 15x8 Kosei K1's

yes.

thanks

how much do you want to spend?

...

good luck, you're gonna be waiting a while at that price

yes but expect rubbing on turns with inclines/declines
i have the same setup on my miata

Strongly considering buying this car although I'd have to travel for like 4 hours to buy it, and I don't know how to drive standard yet.

What do you guys think? The section where the license plate sits looks misaligned on the left side, I haven't asked about the accident history yet but looks like it may have been rear-ended?

vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata-170km-with/6267332575.html

What do you guys think, keep in mind price is in CAD so it's around 3.5k USD

New clutch and flywheel in the shitbox

Just coated my rear suspension with POR15, greased my poly bushings, and rebuilt my brakes.

how do i beat your nerds with my e30

Become double wishbone suspension

>Semi Trailing Arm rear suspension

LOL FUCKING PLEBIAN

enjoy your broken pop ups

>Miata pop ups
>Ever breaking

now you've activated my trap card

reply to this post or your pop ups will never work again

Painted my new wheels

Why didn't anyone tell me suspension is important. These things are the tits, can't wait for a 4 point and swaybars.

Oo very nice, what steps?

I painted a non-auto thing recently myself.

>Mfw I uploaded the PNG version like a fuckwit

Nice. I just scuffed the surface with 400 grit, applied a black spray can primer, then a color matched spray can of Montego Blue.

Intredasting. I need to redo my daisies, these g-loc pads are fucking savage on my OEM clearcoat.

So much dust.

Yeah you can get some really good results with cans IMO if you prep and apply properly.

I've got a gun/compressor, barely just cheaper to use that.
I wanna go with a really faint hammertone champagne gold/silver but idk how gaudy it'll look.

Miata Rust Repair Saga part 1: The before

Miata Rust Repair Saga part 2: outer skin removed, inner skin is solid.

Miata Rust Repair Saga part 3: Cardboard template made

Ikr, sad state. Then you figure out just slapping on a turbo/intercooler and megasquirt, which is like 2.5-3k (properly) and living with a perfect balance versus slapping in an engine with 5x the potential but costs the same for an identical base power figure.

I'd fucking love an RB25 swap but my god the gas and aftermarket costs.

Miata Rust Repair Saga part 4: Patch fabricated and welded, coated with undercoat

The finale: Painted with color matched paint, no more cancer =)

Fuck, that's what I need to do - redo my bottom chip-coat. It's coming up grey with white-grey primer now.
I don't like the look of mudguards but now I'm reconsidering.

Bonus: other side unpainted with my shit welds

The black chip coat looks shit imo, I prefer body color.

Could you stop dicking around and finish up the welding?

Looks like it's in really nice shape. 89-92 had something called a short nose crank which could create some issues. Something you might want to read up on.

Yeah been thinking about that too. Been too lazy to install my GV front lip, want to get sideskirts done at the same time - I think redone black chipcoat and skirts would look tits.

What's wrong with having an SNC?

The woodruff key can wear down in it's slot, causing sloppiness. The issue's far overblown though.

What could possibly go wrong with having the entire crank nose resting on the clamping force of a torque to yield bolt that is reused by shitcunts when they do the timing belt?

What, I say, WHAT could go wrong.
Aside from an AC compressor coming loose, yanking the whole nose across some 300 thou runout and retarding timing 16~ degrees and jumping 4 teeth on the belt.

Obviously its difficult to compare fairly because of age differences, but how did mazda do on the NC when it comes to rust? Is the problem still there?

Depends on your perspective. Far overblown? Yeah I guess. It's a non interference engine so there's no damage to be done when it does slip.
Unfortunately, if it does, the 660 fix isn't really a fix, it's a bandaid. The damage has been done.

The worst part is that if the bolt has been reused, it could be hundreds or thousands of Km/miles until it starts to slop. The car I bought just had its belt done, didn't start retarding until about 15,000km later.

Whats the steering wheel radius like on a miat?
One of the things I hate about my current car is how much I have to spin the wheel to get it to turn, its so unresponsive for a small car

It's very fast, idk the exact ratio but I do know the power steering rack is faster than the manual rack.

excellent

Can drive most of my way home with just forefinger and thumb on the wheel, elbow on the door.
I don't like freeway speeds with it much, feels way too tight/responsive.

Turning circle is great. Not sure if it helps, but I am running with 4 degree front caster.

1.75 centre to lock on powered rack, so 3.5 or thereabouts.

I get a smidge of outer hop at 95%-100% lock.

so what are you going to do to your miata today, friends?
im going to do a bumper cut and get my clutch resurfaced

Continue waiting for a decent one to show up for purchase after failing to get the last two that I liked.

Go to rock auto I'm running the front stainless braided lines they're great like $15

Found a nice clean mx5. No rust, paint in good condition. Softtop is in bad condition but it does not leak. Hardtop included. All in all shell is in REALLY good condition.

But while test driving it I found some problems:
- On revving after a cold start there was a little bit of black smoke. It was like a single ball of black smoke and then it was fine afterwards. Potential problems? Owner said it does not drink any fluids except gas. He also said this was a first start after a day or so.

- Valve cover is oil stained. Needs head gasket replacement?

- Somewhere in the back there is a metal noise coming from when applying throttle on low revs. I don't know if it goes away or exhaust simply masks it when it gets louder. Exhaust/heat shield vibration or diff failing?

Don't know what to do. :(

>get clutch resurfaced
If you're gonna drop the tranny, just fucking replace the clutch. The $50 you might save is nothing compared to the labor.

I have braided lines and hawk hps pads on my car.

Im not a huge fan of the HPS. They dont have very good initial bite until they get hot. They stop just fine, but they just don't have that bite.

I wouldn't recommend the HP+ either. My dad used to have those on his corvette and though they have great bite, they squeal when they're cold and dust like crazy. Not good for the street.

>Valve cover is oil stained
A bad valve cover gasket can lead to complete engine failure
I'd walk away, you have no idea how long the owner has let it remain in that state and what damage its done

Just bought this. Am I part of the big meme now?

Unless you want to do a lot of engine work, avoid it. The black smoke is probably bad valve seals, but the valve cover gasket is an easy replacement to start with.

I get a similar metallic rattling when accelerating from low rpm, it could potentially be gravel caught in a heat shield or other component. Unless you feel a distinct vibration through the driveline at the same time, it's probably not the differential.

N is kind of the anti-meme, because being a more refined version of the NA makes it a better everyday car and less of a mild hassle that you put up with because it's entertaining, while also making it a better performance platform in general.

strawpoll.me/13726973

So, what is it /mg/?

I just touched up my rear alignment. The tow was out just a hair and some of the eccentrics loosened from drifting. Had to tighten those up to stop some noises.

How would a valve cover gasket cause engine failure?

all my money just goes into maintenance. My mod philosophy is that if it's broken, replace it with something performance oriented. Like when my clutch goes out, then I'll upgrade to a lightweight flywheel and better clutch.

i meant the flywheel. i fucked up

albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata-1stgen/6264462514.html

I'm honestly very tempted. I'm expecting some left over $$ from scholarship funds which would cover this.

make sure you inspect it super well, friend

because i'm a /mg/ newfag. what are some key things to look for aside from the obvious?

i would say rust but NM is dry enough it probably wouldnt matter
other than that make sure everythings there and it runs. i made the mistake of buying a cheaper miata and i had to do a complete engine swap and im still sorting things out that i fucked up
it looks fine, honestly, just follow this guide but replace dealership with used

Should I sell my Miata??

Was thinking $3500 obo...
>1999
>150,000 miles
>Hardtop
>Wheels/Tires
>Coilovers
>Aluminum radiator
>Interior 9.5/10 (leather was redone)


Only negative is that it has a restored title :( Was in a fender bender before I got it, just the front bumper was replaced.

No pic on computer so I screenshot my IG, quality luls

Here was the interior when I bought the car.. looks same 2 years later, except I now have aftermarket 350mm steering wheel and a better shift knob.

Oh and the cars been painted since I bought it a few years ago

>Should I sell my Miata??
why dont you like it?