Ghetto Fixes You've Done / Neglect Thread

I got two ~27 years old cars. One has fucked up electrics that drain battery and need to push it to start. Other has engine with one support missing and needs oil change badly.
Hopefully I will do it soon...

My expansion tank is held together by JB weld for 3 years now.

mine has a zip tie clamping it together so props for doing it the less ghetto way

please post a few photos of this monstrosity

Pics

I bent my Panhard bar in my fbody pulling a truck home and replaced it with the heaviest pipe Lowe's had cut to length. I ran it like that for 5 years.

Junkyard hood that is still dented but is at least repairable, unlike my old one

How does that work though. Afaik the computer is programmed to the individual sensors. I mean I saw some guy find his stolen rims and verify it because the tpms "vin" numbers for his truck matched the ones he found on Craigslist.

>blinker wouldn't disengage
>remove fuse for hazards

Not super ghetto but it's sure as hell not proper. Used an empty and vented oil quart jug as a catch can lol

Is this your ride?

>a catch can
Where's the hose that goes back to the intake manifold?

Years ago I was driving 2.5 hours to a friends house when my tarbo oil line blew. So much smoke.
Pulled over right away. Middle of nowhere. Was pretty much stuck.

The bent steel line had a small crack, and was pissing oil everywhere. I had nothing to replace, or fix it with but duct tape, and zip ties.

Wrapped that line in tape, and liked it with zip ties.
Drove to the next exit, and stopped at a gas station.

They had some rubber hoses, so I removed the line, cut off the bad portion, slipped a hose that was slightly too large, clamped it down with whatever I had, bought extra oil, and babied it to my friends house.

Kept the Rpms super low, and drafted behind a semi killing the engine at any decent hill.

Took me 4 hours to get there. At my friend house I was able to flare the oil line, and replace the bad section with proper hose.

Made new an like when I got back home.

I welded my exhaust myself, but didnt get the mounts right, so it keeps shaking and breaking welds. Ill fix it eventually, hopefully before it breaks.

I bought a china water pump, and while it works it spaced the timing tensioner out too much. So its making my timing belt wear funky, because the belt sits partially off the tensioner.

For an idea:

___ -belt
(__) - Tensioner

Im sure the belt will break, but since its a none interference motor ill just put another belt on.

I think it depends on the car. Mine are the ancient first iteration sensors (hence why the light stays off for like 50 mi). The method I described works pretty well, not every time but maybe 70%.

Negative. To the valve cover. To vent excess crankcase pressure on turbocharged engines

Uh user you should probably..

>non-interference

Oh well in that case let it ride lol

Then it's not a catch can. It's a plastic bottle that some retard put on the end of what is supposed to be the PCV hose.

Ohhh. Yea I hadn't thought of that. Makes sense. Seriously though fuck that stupid system. The "convenience" is not worth the hassle. Doesn't matter how expensive the vehicle is either nothing is safe from that stupid tpms light.

Yes it is you fuckwit. It's literally a hose or hoses between the valve cover and a vented storage container. Go ahead and google it. I'll wait

If you ran a traditional pcv setup you'd add extra air into the plenum that's not been registered by the map when under boost. I've built my own engines and have worked on Honda's for nearly 2 decade so. But yea you probably know what you're talking about

Fixed a split vacuum tube with heat shrink.
8 months later and it's still holding, although it started to leak again just a bit, recently, and I had to hold a lighter to it to reseal.

...

On my motorcycle: To keep my expensive aftermarket saddlebags from melting on the mufflers, I wrapped a leather work glove around the muffler and secured it with the biggest hoseclamp I could find. 3000 miles so far no issues, glove is pretty crispy though.

On car: rear hatch weatherstripping is leaking water into the cabin and causing the fuel pump cutoff switch to short out and kill the engine, so I just stripped out the carpet, and wrapped the cutoff switch in a plastic bag and 'sealed' it with duct tape. Werks breddy gud.

>O/D switch is an actual light switch screwed into the dash complete with faceplate
holy kek this has to be a joke there's no wayvyou actually did that
Post pics

Holy fuck this is my dream car

that doesn't look like a Toyota tundra

I've done too much of this shit to remember

Highlights are:
>fixing a rust hole in the floor pan with builders plaster
>cable tied a radiator and atf cooler in place
>installed an after market stereo but it wouldn't fit in the hole so I made a special mount out of carboard and glue
>installed DRL's with blu-tack
>tint started peeling off window so I glued it back in place with PVA glue

All of that was done to different cars. I fully spray painted the top half of my current car black with rattle cans. It actually looks pretty good in my opinion. It covers a lot of rust.

Because it isn't one?

the plates are for a a tundra

Did you type it correctly? BMB 3114

we need pics

>jeep has a ghetto rigged push button start because the PO didn't feel like fixing the ignition switch
>Rear speakers are now front speakers. Rear speakers are now just holes with taped off wires in the roof (new ones coming in the mail, though)
>couldn't find anywhere to wire in the halos for the new headlights. So I ran speaker wire into the cab and ran it off the radio circuit.

I try to take care of my shit if possible. And the halos look sorta cool imo

My most impressive one was on a trip for spring break from the middle of Missouri to South Padre Island (southern tip of Texas) and about halfway through hit a bad pothole in my friends Prius and got a sidewall tear on one of the tires.
It was kind of like a flap, not a straight hole, so I got some super glue at a gas station and glued it shut and put a napkin over it to keep pressure on it while it dried.

That tire held air for the rest of the way there and all the way back, 1400 miles on superglue and a napkin.

My car got in a pretty bad accident, like my shit got pushed in about a foot in the middle of my front bumper. Instead of biting the bullet and just getting a new car, my stubborn American ass decided to drill out the core support and bolt a new one on from the drilled out spot welds. I also had to get a new radiator, but couldn't find the right one to fit on the support, so I just have a radiator that only fits on three mounting points. My new (used) bumper bar is only on by 3 out of 4 bolts because there was a damaged flange on my frame that was blocking me from putting that last bolt on. I still haven't gotten a new a/c condenser. My hood doesn't match the rest of my car. My license plate is only hanging on by one bolt. The bumper cover is held on by zip ties and sheer willpower. And I only spent $300 to do it, which is less than a tenth of what the body shop quoted me for it.

>$28 a quart
Serious?
Is this common or did you get ripped off?

I can see a German make tearing its customers a new one with ATF prices, even GM's Synchromesh ATF is usually like $26 a quart. It's some good shit though.

gave me a legit laugh even if its fake

please say you have pics