Sound Deadner

Has anyone used any type of sound deadner in their vehicle? i plan to do my car since i'll be driving highway miles and am tired of road noise. im going to buy new tires as well so that'll take care of most noise. i plan to buy some noico stuff off amazon since the reviews are very high, anyone have expereince?

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It's a pain in the ass to apply and it won't work as well as you hope it will. It's easier and more effective to just turn the music up.

Turn the radio up, and get some moving blankets. Just lay them on the floorboards and possibly the trunk if that's an issue.

fuck no its dead weight.
I just installed a loud exaust so most of the road noise is nice.

So there's two different schools of thought to applying sound deadening.

There's the autistic audiophile method, and then there's the "I just want things to be quieter" method.

>Autistic audiophile
This is dead weight if you're not looking to have the absolute best sounding stereo possible, because you aim for literal 100% coverage of all panels... roof, floor, doors, and so on. When you deaden literally fucking everything you can control the sound of your radio much better, and you can go deep down the rabbit hole of eliminating resonant frequencies and standing waves and reflection, etc. etc.

>I just want it to be quieter
This method you still buy quality deadening for, but you really only need like 50 to 60% coverage on panels, dead center. This will take the edge off a lot of road noise. It also depends on the type of vehicle, for instance if you drive a pickup truck, pulling off the rear panel of the cab and slapping a big square of deadening there is minimal weight gain for what will be a noticable drop in sound, as that is the "noisiest" panel on the vehicle, generally speaking. Different body types have different properties like that.

Either way, don't buy shitty sound deadening.

No, because I just bought a modern car that has insulation in it already.

>I just installed a loud exaust
Why tho

/thread
pretty must 100%
especially
>Either way, don't buy shitty sound deadening.

Put an aftermarket fiberglass trunk on my Miata and the sub I have in the trunk make it rattle like crazy. Got some Noico 80m mil sound deadening and put it on the center section of the trunk where it rattled the worst. I was hoping it would cut down on the rattling a bit, and it sure did. It's a night a day difference. The trunk still rattles a tiny bit with any heavy bass, but that's because there were some spots I couldn't reach because of the design of the trunk. I noticed a huge difference from in the car. The bass is so much deeper and sounds a lot more clear. I still have a lot of the stuff left, so I might put a little on my speaker grills since they rattle a lot with any heavy bass.

Like other people said, the stuff is really heave, so you'll be adding a fair amount of weight. In my situation, it was worth it to me. Put it on a fiberglass trunk, so the weight isn't much different than the stock trunk. This one might weigh a couple pounds more, but the trade off is worth it to me.

also after the first 50-60% coverage you fall into the land of diminishing returns

cause i drive a roadster and I hear everything any way.
And it the burbles and pops are great

So i just want it to be quieter, I'm assuming doing the doors and trunk will cut down the noise? Is the noico sound deadening or should i go for like dynamat or other known brands?

Have some consideration for your fellow man, or don't be surprised when you find the top slashed.

sounddeadenershowdown.com/

That "sound deadener" you're referring to is actually only for vibration, it doesn't block noise it just reduces the noise generated by vibrating panels. Follow the link above if you actually want to reduce noise, I fell for the dynamat meme years ago and was severely disappointed when it made basically no difference.

fuck you go slash bike tyres if you hate loud shit you retard

What car?

toyota roadster

Oh my bad, you sound exactly like my friend. I helped him put a new exhaust on his miata and all he talks about are the burbles and pops.

>100% coverage

this is NOT how mass-loaded vinyl works.

at all

stop posting
audio fag here

>resonant vibrations
>not audible noise

w-what?

What's even worse is that cars are practically the worst environment for audio. The point of diminishing returns is low, so just get a decent amp, good speakers and tweeters, and a good headunit and you're 90% there.

Retard alert.

Why am I a retard? Because instead of making my featherweight part time race car heavier I got the one with a nice sounding road noise that doesn't bother me Instead of being a boomer tier retard and pretending a sportscar is a rolls royce?

>The point of diminishing returns is low

>(4) 6x9 infinity kappa (35hz-30khz)
>15" usa Memphis sub @ 32hz
>powered by a SKAR monoblock and REAUDIO 4 channel
>3-way active crossover network
>2 OFC welding cable only
>12 gauge OFC speaker wire
>upgraded electrical system/ high-output alternator
>car is butyl-vinyl loaded and also packed with acoustic foam panels

Just having "good speakers" is not 90% of a proper system

>making it ""heavier"" with butyl

i added maybe 30lbs total to my honda in butyl. its much quieter now the panels can't resonate. the doors are just solid dead mass

>thinking you can tell the difference between +/-50lbs

i doubt that highly considering the driver is a big fat autistic retard

Better off getting sound isolating all weather mats to cover the floor much as possible and calling it a day.

If this kind of thing is important to you, buy a car with a less noisy interior stock. Most newer Toyotas and especially Lexus are quite a bit quieter inside than most cars. Like a Camry / Avalon / GS / LS.

>tfw based tenth corolla has wind-noise

other than that its perfect..

also our '03 Lexus GS300 is quiet as fuck

sell your car and buy a nicer one.

>putting a sub in a miat
underage b&

>i doubt that highly considering the driver is a big fat autistic retard
>calls other fat autistic retards
>gets upset if other people are fine with road noise and would rather keep the car light
>thinking you can't feel weight difference of 25kg in a featherweight car
I'd tell you to neck yourself or go fuck yourself but since you never leave the basement anyway nobody has to deal with your bullshit

It's a sheet of butylene rubber. The fuck difference does "quality" make

There's a difference between longitudinal and transversal vibrations

Nah m8, you're autistic. Enjoy your premature hearing loss and tinnitus, faggot.

In most town cars you just go from the front seat back loading it up with MLV or CLC and the trunk floor is all you need

BUT, you need to go for a drive on a coarse road and notice where most of your sounds are coming from.

Should i go with dynamat than? Or is the generic shit okay?

Noico, Dynamat, Fatmat, Secondskins, etc are all good material.

I have experience personally with Noico as of late. Have not used the other three in years, but was surprised by Noico. It's about 30% cheaper than Dynamat, yet it quieted my cars just the same.

>Has anyone used any type of sound deadner in their vehicle?

Yes. You should look up previous archived "dynamat" threads. Some of them are informative including showing tools and various other options people have used besides that black asphalt type sound deadener.

>hearing loss and tinnitus
>from constant drone that is quieter than an airplane
>calls me autistic
gg

If you don't want the hassle applying Alubutyl I would first try to use sth. like in this picture and add it below the door panels.
Ideally you would use both.

>What car
>>Toyota roadster
That's as bad as saying 'Porsche'. What's the model you total nig-nog.

Did the large panel behind the seats of my miat. Night and day. Nothing huge, but night and day - far less rumble.

>i'll be driving highway miles and am tired of road noise
man up

Yeah, and its not very effective unless you integrate it directly into the frame, which means removing heaps of paneling.

Even then its not really worth it, look at getting new tires and or suspension, both of these things will have a more drastic effect on interior cabin noise.

dont be a summerfag

>tfw removed sound insulation
>tfw added loud exaust
>tfw added performance tyres
>tfw pillowball mount coilovers
>tfw deleted half the speakers

Stay mad.

>Should i go with dynamat than? Or is the generic shit okay?
There's lots of other options than Dynamat. First, there are different approaches. And there are different materials.

>my car is noisy becuz racecar

Its fine for a track car

But my daily needs to be cheap, quiet , comfortable and an audiophile grade sound system to enjoy while driving

Shit get a fucking land barge if you want quiet daily on the highway. Town Cars get 26mpg quite easily my ls400 managed 25 hwy. But Dynamat is great for sound deafening. If you want your car to be cooler inside use peel and seal aluminum roof sealer. Ive done it in interiors of old cars with no A/C in florida and everyone says it works well.

Yes it does work.

Even just putting a square in the middle of a large piece of metal (outer doors, the roof, under the carpet, on the trunk and panels) will noticeably change the tone that the metal reverberates.

However that's not where most sound comes into the car. It'll help more with sound escaping, but won't improve DB's.

You would need to isolate the cabin more from the outside (feel your keyholes and handles with the air conditioner on full. air will come out) to actually improve sound quality from just deadening.

It does make your far feel more quality when going over bumps and shutting doors. More of a thud.

But first:

Get quieter tires
Inspect your suspension for worn and seized parts.

COVERING 100% YOUR PANELS WITH DYNAMAT IS THE WRONG WAY OF DOING IT!~

this guy has a bunch of good into his method was 100X better than just CLD dynamat
you can buy the materials off amazon as well
sounddeadenershowdown.com/

>Has anyone used any type of sound deadner in their vehicle?
In my car, the choice of tires matters a great deal as to how much road noise gets into the car. No doubt you've experienced the difference in road surfaces on the noise you hear. Concrete versus asphalt. Fresh asphalt versus old asphalt. New tires versus old tires worn down to the stiffer block sections. And of course tires that are deliberately made to not be so noisy at the cost of maybe a little performance.

If you run MPSS tires, then of course you'll have a lot more noise. If you insist on MPSS all year long, then asphalt sound deadener isn't enough. You'll have to dampen out the way sound travels inwards with something more aggressive like 3M 2552 Foil so google that. It's made with sound dead aluminum alloy which is not like your usual aluminum alloy. It's the type of material that reduces longitudinal sound propagation on a beam, rod, or surface. Remember to use walmart.com as your baseline price comparison as not everything in this world should have amazon as the baseline especially if it is a chinese copy made with normal aluminum. I have engineering samples of 3M 2552 and it's pretty good stuff.

See this archived Veeky Forums thread as an example of sound deadening threads.
archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15364893/#q15364893

>an audiophile grade sound system to enjoy while driving

It cannot deliver audiophile grade audio with all that road noise from your suspension, power train, doors, and windows. Brrraaap braaappp braap brapp

Thank my man this has definitely helped, i think I'll go with the new tires and go on afterwarda

>i think I'll go with the new tires
The higher speed rated tires have stiffer blocks, so if you don't need to go high speeds, get the lower speed rated tires with less stiff blocks. As you can see in the picture at archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15364893/#q15373336 when the tire meets the road, it compresses. That absorbs not just the impact but reduces the amount of road noise. If the rubber was stiffer, it would compress less as you can imagine from the picture.

Metallica sounds better through a stock 90's headunit over FM radio than it does through a gorillian dollar studio setup in a perfect sound environment.
Don't be a faggot.
Listen to the warmth of low fidelity 70's, 80's and early 90's music how it was meant to be listened to. Through a lossy, grainy, awful system.

Very nice, lower speeds ratings are cheaper as well. Thanks for the help my mane i appreciate

Is that Amanda Wenk?

You sound like the kind of faggot who would buy Monster Cables for his $1 thrift shop boombox.

I don't touch anything audio related.
If you've never been high on meth in an early 90's American shit box driving through the midwest in the middle of the day on a week day with literally no responsibilities blasting trashy metal and rock through a stock stereo set up then you've never fucking lived.
Enjoy chasing your "audiophile" while I actually enjoy life.

its cheaper to buy a better car than to waste countless hours of work and resources turning cheap economobox into a rolls royce.
Just go te muh racecar route.
You'll enjoy driving while driving instead having to pretend you're not driving.

It's not all he has to do is rip out the carpet and remove the stock insulation and put in dynamat.

>Blasting trashy metal
So you're deaf and your taste sucks, good to know.

>You sound like the kind of faggot who would buy Monster Cables
Many years ago during the Monster Cable fad craze that had so many people recommended monster cable to each other, that company came out with power cables to replace those you use with your home audio units.

The salesman tried to get me to buy those $29.95 power cords. He talked about how the shielding made sure your power was clean and didn't stress the power supply. I simply cut him down with the comment that the AC power lines in the house going up to the wall socket are not insulated and shielded, so it makes no sense to shield the last few feet of AC power lines to the gear.

You'll never know what it means to be a white America in a flyover state.
You're missing out man.

Those days are long gone. Huge birthrates fueled by social welfare have caused diversity to break out all over the place over the decades.

Used it to reduce resonance from my exhaust. Went from painful to bearable.

>its cheaper to buy a better car than to waste countless hours of work and resources turning cheap economobox into a rolls royce.

It's cheaper to make my car quieter than to buy a rolls royce and insure it. The annual rolls royce insurance would be more than buying a new shitbox each year.

Your fucking retarded listen to metallica on a system with subs and say some dumb shit again . You cant even hear the kickdrum on shitty speakers that simply cant produce the frequency

Stop justifying your garbage sound quality

>i spend money on meth instead of audio equipment

Both of my cars have full audio systems and ive never smoked fucking meth you shit stained tweaker

>muh sound quality

I'll be over here with my "premium" Chevy sonic stereo blasting eurobeat at levels that can be heard a block away.

It's a car all it needs is muh bass and decibles.


Also I have a good quality set up at home because you can actually get good audio in your house

>cant get good sq in a car meme

Your piece of shit sonic has nothing on my setup

It shakes the mirrors and is loud af with overpowering bass

Literally all that is needed

>shakes the mirrors
>babys first car audio

Bro my shit makes the whole car feel like your jack hammering concrete. Visibly flexing the panels

I was 16 at one point too u know m8.

But now I'm old and don't want that retarded shit

Again its an sq setup. Just having the headroom doesnt make it retarded you know nothing furfuck

>>says m8
>gay tripfur methhead from montana

Getting this mad about wasting your money.

Must suck being poor

>calls me poor for having disposable income

Im fairly certain that your trailer trash

>thinks he has money
>drive a sonic with stock audio

Even my trans am has 2x10 polk audio subs and polk components

>calls me trailer trash
>has a trans am

Fuck me my sides are in orbit you fucking poor fag

The real reason the sonic is stock is because you dont want them to get your shit when they come to repossess it

>drives a SONIC

You should be worshipping the ground my trans am rolls on with your plebian tier shitbox

>not having 280rwhp

How much your hp does that preowned rental car even make

Only 280.

My sonic makes that with a few simple mawds

I paid cash

>280 at the wheels

it doesnt make it not a sonic

Even my eco car is much cooler than yours. A 91 ed6 civic hatch

Yeah its old but its a jdm classic. Your car is something poor people buy on high interest finnancing

My LS1 4th gen is still worth more kek

I thought you were legit on welfare

>It shakes the mirrors and is loud af with overpowering bass
>Literally all that is needed
Picture related??

If you noticed I disappeared for 2 or 3 years it's because I was getting my shit together instead of being useless.

It's why I now live in a far nicer trailer and have a garage

>that midrange

If you didnt spend money on fursuits and crystal you wouldnt be in a trailer

>Your piece of shit sonic has nothing on my setup
Not that guy, but even small cars have have a huge outdoor sound depending on how it's done. Some audio car mods are made with extra speakers. The normal set of speakers are for when the is being driven. But the extra speakers are for when the car is parked with engine / extra alternator running to drive the extra speakers.

The extra speakers are mounted in the doors and rear hatch lid. Other speakers are exposed by opening the hatch. With all the doors open, the car can deliver a good loud sound that has fairly good fidelity.

>implying trailers are bad
>implying having a huge yard is bad
>implying apartments are better


ill just sit here in my comfy trailer with central aircon

This is exactly how my setup is. Its a civic hatch with boxed 6x9s that you can set out

Makes working on your car really nice

>implying houses arent a thing

A nice clean trailer is a good step up from living in your car

>A nice clean trailer
There's one well-off coworker that had lived that way for a long time until he got married. He didn't need the space or expense of an apartment. But the downside was that he had to commute from a much farther distance. He saved up his money and has a home and wife now with kids. 2 of which have graduated university already and the last one in school.

Not that any of you are retired in here, but in the winter time, many retired people from the northern states head south in their campers, trailers, and RVs. They winter in the southern states in large numbers. Many are multi-millionaires and there they are in their trailers. Of course, some of them end up buying houses and living down south permanently just to escape the winters in their retirement years.

honestly a nice trailer is a huge step up from an apartment city fags for some reason dont get this

Yeah until all those factory panels and trim pieces begin to vibrate, rattle or buzz from the sound where deadening is actually needed to stop it.


>hurr worst environment so why even improve it

You're the autistic fuck if you think there's no noticeable difference between a properly setup and tuned stereo in a deadened car, vs just some decent equipment tossed into a car.

>tfw panel noise from hell in this thing now

Stereo was a mild step up from the satelite home-theatre speakers the PO wired up by tapping into the factory cab corner speakers.


>Focal ps130v's in the doors with tweeters in the factory dash locations
>temp cheapo 4" alpines in cab corner mounts
>2 shallow 10" pioneers
>kenwood 900.5

Gotta wire up a beefier alternator one of these days, stock 63amp can't keep up if lights/heater/wipers are on, even with all of them off doing 70 down the highway my volt gauge dips on certain stuff.

Too bad I have a fuel tank where your subs are, in my pickup

Relocate it man, or try stuffing one under the seat, those Pioneer's only need 3 1/8" mounting depth and work in a box 0.35-0.70 cubic ft.
>built mine to be dual 0.6 chambers which is the recommended volume
They hit far harder than you'd expect for shallows.