I need to relocate my battery to my trunk, For a couple reasons

I need to relocate my battery to my trunk, For a couple reasons.


1. The new CIA rubs on it

2. Because of how many things I have using the battery it keeps dying (mostly during winter). I've gone though two brand new batteries because of this

I've finally just decided to get a bigger battery with more CCA, But the one I bought doesn't fit, Even if I bought a bigger tray.

So I'm going to put the battery in the trunk
Here is my questions...

1. How would you suggest I attach the supplied pos wire to my existing pos terminal wire?

2. What would I do with the existing neg terminal wire? Just wire it to the frame then put a new negative in the trunk on a good ground?

>Because of how many things I have using the battery it keeps dying
upgrade your damn alternator

I've thought of that, I cannot find a high output alternator for my car.

I can get replacements, But not high outputs

>cold air intake
kys. you didn't gain any power and probably killed some.

t. memespouting busrider

I literally just ran some spare cables, I think 10 gauge, through the firewall and roof into my trunk, cut the original cables in the hood, soldered & taped the new ones, and called it good.
You can ground it nearly anywhere, just sand down part of the frame so it can have good connection wherever you ground it.

I did run the cable alongside my speaker cable, so I already had an idea of how to get it to the back.

Oh, I didn't read #2 correctly, it doesn't really matter what you do with the original neg cable, just wrap some duct tape or electrical tape around it.

And buy a cheap soldering kit at the local wally world

>Battery keeps dying
Purchase a proper deep cycle battery designed for your use. Yes, it's going to be ridiculously expensive.

>Bigger battery with more CCA
Why? That's not going to solve your problem. Purchase a battery with more reserve hours. See above.

>Battery in the trunk
What vehicle / engine configuration? This will help determine the appropriate gauge size. They have calculators online to help determine gauge size per foot the wire is running.

>Attach pos
Solder the positive. Use an online calculator to determine whether or not you need to upgrade the to a heavier gauge wire.

I'd recommend soldering a wire to a protected insulated post somewhere to make jump starting the vehicle easier. Gives you two access points if you want to jump someone or receive a jump.

>Neg wire
Run a negative back and attach more grounding straps along the way.

>10 gauge
user, come on. Don't be a cheap bastard. Not nearly heavy enough.

>user, come on. Don't be a cheap bastard. Not nearly heavy enough.
You really don't want to see the wiring in my shed
And so far it works fine, no fires (yet)

>I put the gun to my head and pulled the trigger a few times, but I haven't found the bullet yet. I'm gonna keep pulling the trigger.

shit I cannot (you)

yea, more drinks 4 me

Just think of it like this: Electricity is always trying to kill you, and you need to keep its cage strong and in good condition or it will break out and go on a rampage, through you or your stuff.

Part of me is scared, but the wiring in my garage is a little rough as well.
>Not a single junction box in sight

What car is this? I'm willing to bet you can find a bigger alternator

>grounding straps

Why?

>What vehicle / engine configuration

2012 lancer ralliart 2.0L


I'll look at deep cycle batteries too

>he bought a CAI

>moving battery to trunk
>not placing it under your fender

>1. How would you suggest I attach the supplied pos wire to my existing pos terminal wire?
No remove the old positive terminal wire and wire the new one to where the old one was attached.

>2. What would I do with the existing neg terminal wire? Just wire it to the frame then put a new negative in the trunk on a good ground?

Just remove the old Negy cable completely,

This thread guys... this thread.

10 gauge to move the battery, and you ran it beside the speaker cable? Did you shield the speaker cable at least? Does it sound like ass?

You saved, what? $10 relative to using 1 gauge?

You can get a CAI but not an alternator for your car? You might want to pay someone to relocate your battery so neither you nor your car dies.

How would I die from 12 volts DC?

Yes, Oddly enough there are about a dozen different CIA's available for my car. But literally not one H/O alternator

It's mind blowing really

Actually looks like a good idea

>I need to relocate my battery to my trunk
You have voltage drop from the longer wire runs to the trunk. So you should use a large wire. The extra set of main battery fuses must be located right at the battery terminals AND at the charging lines in the front hood. But I bet you're just going to make a "T" splice instead.

The trunk is an enclosed environment, so your battery must not be a lead acid wet cell type battery. Otherwise, the acidic vapors can cause problems in the trunk.

Some cars have their battery charger electronics and voltage regulators designed for a specific size battery. So if you change the battery size, their behavior might be different. It's up to you to find out if that is acceptable for your make and model and that overcharging and undercharging won't occur. AGM batteries do not like overcharging.

All your new power lines should be fused such that they can be shorted at any point and not cause a fire because the fuse will blow. This will cover the case where someone T-bones your car and crushes the power line. The fuse should be close to the power source. I've seen where people put the fuse at the end where the device was using power because all that mattered to them was that there was a fuse somewhere in the line.

Picture: same brand, manufacturing method, and size/type of batteries but the chinese versions seem to have taken shortcuts somehow.