Thoughts on the MR2?

Mk1 for dangerous fun.
Mk2 for rice rocketing.
Mk3 for the trash can.

>Mk3 for the trash can.
but this is wrong tho

Snap oversteer isn't an issue that you face if you have literally any experience with the MR platform and know what throttle control and weight transfer is.

I practiced driving SW20s in simulators long before I got my own '93 turbo, and even with it being tuned to ~300 whp, I have never gotten any hint of even liftoff oversteer because I am not an autist.

This guy is right when he says the 5s-fe is pure shit
If you are a Euro or Nip/live in a country (like NZ) with a bunch of imported cars, the 3S-GE is a fantastic engine, especially the BEAMS variant.

The 3S-GTE is the only engine that belongs in the SW20 other than the 3S-GE

Disregard the 3S-FE

The 4A-GE never came with the SW20 to my knowledge.

People who K-swap are degenerates and should be ignored.

It is incredible to drive. Best car for under $15k imo

(actually best car period in my humble opinion)

Let's imagine a driving error. In a situation where the MR2 oversteers, is it just harder to catch than in other vehicles or are you basically fucked and can just hop you spin out without hitting anything?

latest /v/ meme car.

It is much, much harder to catch, but it can be done.

>People who K-swap are degenerates and should be ignored.
That's not fair criticism. I get where you're coming from, keeping the same block in it's designated car sure, but the K20 engine is excellent, the heads flow a lot of air and there is immense capabilities for modding.
Face it, the 3s-gte is a great engine but it's old. The 2zz trumps it in comparison if you were to turbocharge it.

I am not saying the 3s-gte is bad, but you can't insult people who seek better solutions to things.

The 2ZZ isn't all that good. I'd say it's about equal to the 3S-GTE in terms of tuning potential.

I'm not saying the K20 is a bad engine, in fact, I was actually looking for a clean one to throw in a Toyota Pickup with a 22re that has a blown headgasket. They're amazing engines that can be tuned to make insane power.

I am simply a biased purist, and I have to be if I want the SW20 to remain unmolested. There aren't exactly many of them left, as only like 23k were sold in North America total, and plenty of them have been crashed, ruined, or otherwise destroyed.

recently picked one up for £700, gonna be a fun project. needs a bit of restoration work as well as all the modifications

Don't threaten me with a good time

i think i saw this on autotrader

when it oversteers just don't let off the throttle to stabilize it. because when you do the weight transfer will be much more violent and your countersteer needs to be almost instant to catch it.

when the rear gives out just stay on the throttle (obviously not WOT) and counter steer to counteract it. you sort of do the opposite of what you'd expect to do in the situation which is why it catches a lot of people out

I DD a n/a MK2 MR2, it actually isn't bad, its still really fun to drive, but it isn't fast not by a long shot, but it still manages to make me smile whenever I want it too.

>93
wasn't that the year they fixed the snap oversteer issues? I think it was the 91 and 92 that had those issues

Yes, but I neglected to mention that I owned a '91 Turbo that I traded for this current SW20 + some cash.

The problem supposedly wasn't ever completely gone, but severely lessened.

My '91 turbo never had any issues with snap oversteer either, and it was my 1st car.

The MR2 isn't a special snowflake in this regard, just a special snowflake in its tendency to oversteer in the first place.

Miatas and other well balanced, short wheelbase cars are best corrected the same way. If you let off the gas, or god forbid, brake in an oversteering miata you're in for a bad time.

I personally would snap oversteer on a 91 but most likely wouldn't on a 93. I've have snap understeered my honda civic. Shows how much of a shit driver I am.

I love these cars because they're a shitter killer just like earlier Porche 911s that were arguably even worse for oversteer because of their heavy RR layout.

Would you recommend the second gen MR2 to tall drivers? I'm 6'8" which is already a problem in some cars. I'm fairly thin so mostly leg room and head room is problematic.

>Want to get 1gen MR2
>finding one is a bitch
>it will most likely be in poor conditions and need lot of restoration
I just want to have fun, but I feel like this is a dream that wont come true for a long while.

>found a low-miles 93 turbo for $7k on craigslist
>have 5 more years of school until I can actually make money
kill me tbqhwyfampai

Absolutely not. It is from the era where Nip cars were absolutely tiny, especially sports cars.

I'm 5'11 and have don't have much room left.

I'm 6'3" and pretty gangly, I fit in an sw20 with room to spare
Captcha: taller only

handles worse than miata, less reliable because of forced induction (assuming turbo, unless N/A, in which instance it's pitifully slow), maintenance nightmare when anything goes wrong on the firewall or timing side of the engine, and is unstable in anything other than dry weather. most rwd japanese cars of the period can be made faster and more capable for far less labor and time investment. they look cool but from an engineering standpoint, they're lackluster. the AW11 is the best of the three.

God damnit, there goes my dream. Seems like I'll always be stuck with more "premium" vehicles but I hate how heavy most of them are.

I want an aw Veeky Forums. From what I've read the slush box is terrible unless you have the supercharger, which adds 50-100kg in transmission and other bullshit and only gives you an extra 10-20kw and a bit of torq for it. Plus more shit to go wrong. 5-speed n/a masterrace is the way to go right

Whenever i read MR2, i internalise it as Mr 2 and it drives me nuts.

Unless you can do an engine swap at home and have a second car you should walk away.

Mk3 for supreme touge autism

Not bad looking. Average cabin. Often open diff. Turbo models sit and cook thanks to poor air flow and front mounted radiator (16 litres of coolant and just as many bleed points).
Eh/10

Pic unrelated

Also then they can begin the quest of trying to find a diesel maxima so they can get the LD28 crank and make it a stroker project.

>Not having fun restoring your own car and then owning the kiddos at autocross that show up in their FRS

front mounted radiator means it gets better airflow, that's why it was designed that way

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>MK3 for the trash can

This is wrong

Has a 1zzfe swap ever been done? It seems like a nice engine.

Recently picked up a 91 turbo, haven't been driving it to hard until i can start upgrading parts. Honestly as long as you don't drive around like a jack ass and remember not to slow into corners you'll be fine.

1zz-fe? as in the corolla motor they put in the ZZW-30?

why would anybody bother

this
you're putting the engine into an even heavier car
like literally why

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> decides a car isn't good despite never having driven one

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I like mine.

feel ya senpai

ill give you 2k cash

its getting fixed after this. just finished an evo in similar condition

why so fucking messy, though?
a hurricane come through?

sat since 2008 because reasons. i'm fixing them all to better than when they were on the road for the owner. just got done with this evo that sat outside the whole time with no seats and a window cracked, and it's looking and running great.

just switched to a modded rom and tuned it, the launch maps (with a -10 timing and 10.2 afr island where the 2step sits) with bang bang antilag, and no lift shift make such a huge difference. car makes 20psi the first bang and 25psi the second, launched it in the rain in testing today and it stayed in that island banging away against the 2step with the wheels spinning for a good 2 seconds, i felt like i was playing dirt 2. i love evo now??

it also simulates the rear o2 sensors and heater signal, and i can set the emissions monitors to availible pass or fail wether or not the car even came with it... passed emissions with flying colors. i love rom modding

bay with titanium IC piping

as it looks now

how much for gze brah

engine was stolen out of the car unfortunately. am planning on going with a camry v6 with a trd s/c if i can find it

titanium intercooler piping from ETS. shit is BEAUTIFUL in person

how did they steal the fucking motor lol

sitting since 2008 in a shitty shed

>snap oversteer
Stopped reading there

Slaya BTFO

really pretty. you ever been pulled over for that license plate position?

guy who's actually driven one here
it was a blast
its gonna be my next car

I just got a ZZW30 with a 2ZZ swap.

It's a fucking BLAST.

It really turns heads too

gee i dont know otard, how about you consult the billions of threads on Veeky Forums right now that are shitted up with MR2posters just how great they are

wonder where you went. good work

thread 2moro

this fits me perfectly but I can't do caffeine because I get unbearably hyper

heres a preview
youtu.be/GywdZlnee3U

>mine
>snap oversteer
opinion discarded, confirmed never driven one
lol sure, there's fun in that
mk1 is dangerous fun, agreed. mk2 is fast. mk3 is the best handler
agreed except k20s are legitimately good swaps
it is harder to catch, not impossible... actually kind of easy like described
nobody normally turbos the high compression 2zz? and yeah the 3sgte is awesome, top secret Supra and Castrol Tom's Supra used them
>2zz equal in tuning potential
well ones from the Celica gts or any Toyota (NOT THE LOTUS VARIANT WHICH IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT) are pretty much at their limit from the factory
neat, toss those 14s in the bin for some wide and light 16s, changes the handling a lot for the better
yes and no, 91s don't magically spin out and 93+ doesn't magically stay always straight. I believe the only big change was related to the toe arms but in reality the wider and larger wheels/tires and different alignment specs from the yearly revisions is what made all the difference. And in this day and age youd probably be putting on some decently sized wheels and far superior tires than they had in the 90's where the car was originally and wrongly given the "snap oversteer" title
>
>The MR2 isn't a special snowflake in this regard, just a special snowflake in its tendency to oversteer in the first place.
>Miatas and other well balanced, short wheelbase cars are best corrected the same way. If you let off the gas, or god forbid, brake in an oversteering miata you're in for a bad time.
very true, the characteristic is present even in FWD cars and most importantly in all MR cars, the MR2 happens to be quicker to spin due to the shorter wheelbase BUT, that does not make it a bad car or a bad handling car. Look at a lotuses size for example.
I can tell you've never driven or worked on one, please just stay in your miata threads

user your car is actually fucking beautiful what state has the privilege of seeing such a car grace its roads

the supercharger ain't Jack shit honestly, the normal 4age is plenty peppy

Thanks bro. Here's a side shot with Advans in view. Never been pulled over the last 2 years of running it, but it's a weekend car and not a typical yobs hatchback. Either way I cable/zip tie it to the front if needed. This was a temporary look till I figured out where I wanted it but ended up sticking it up on the dash as the cars lines look much better.

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As someone who owns an SW20, what is it like to actually work on one then? Is it a nightmare?
Are most things doable if you don't have a garage or the means to drop the engine?
I want one, but my biggest concern would be working on it.

working on a 300zx, 3000gt, and nsx is worse. lemme tell ya, the only ones with nightmare stories are people who've never worked on one and those who like to complain and blame everything else.
So, what's it like to work on one? mmkay, imagine a tall rav4 and then flip it backwards, Viola~
Why a rav4? well, sometimes you'll have to bend over into the engine bay (OH NO THE END OFF THE WORLD AM I RIGHT?!!?!!?) and a rav4 is a lil high in height so it's relatively the same perspectthe only "nightmarish" thing I've ever had to do was drop the fuel tank which required me to nearly lay in the engine bay to disconnect some fuel lines, no biggie. Some retards and for some reason the forums suggest that you drop the engine to change the alternator and or timing belt, VERY untrue. literally just remove 2 10mm bolts and tiny cover to the right of the engine lid and you're golden.
In some cases, working on it is even easier than most cars, pretty much imagine a backwards Corolla if you're doing suspension. Simply put, think smarter instead of working harder and it's a piece of cake.
hiiiiiiii, North Carolina. thank you
neat

Thanks for the response! I'm gonna go for it. Just waiting for a good one to pop up now.

no problem man, I know all the mr2s and everything about them. DD a 2nd gen turbo, have driven the NAs, built a 2zzge 3rd gen, and raced with an aw11 mk1a/b. Have seen all kinds of builds and know the community/market inside and out, it's a wonderful community.
If you have anymore questions I gotchu senpai

Bump

My brother wrapped it around a tree and killed himself before I got a chance to drive it, but it seemed cool.

not him, but I recently brought an mr2 turbo. I want to replace the stock rims. What would you suggest and also put a more aggressive exhaust on it. My budget is $500. I was looking at the rpf1s but they are 800 dollars. Are there any good budget rims out there?

if you got the money, Berk exhaust + downpipe from campos is the most popular go to. not too loud and not too droney on the highway. BUT, very honestly the $100 eBay exhaust is very functional as it's a turbo engine ofc.
for $500 I'd recommend getting stock wheels from other cars or a used set, RSX/RSX type s or R32 GT-R wheels are perfect and for used wheels any konig, kosei, and enkei set will do.
I prefer running 16s on my car and no bigger than 17s. Offset should be from around +45 to +35 and wheel stagger is a MUST! if not then staggered tires might do. The fronts will be maxed out at a 8in wide wheel up front and the rear view can get a lot wider but 9" in the rear with 8" in the front is perfect. On stock suspension you can't a profile larger than 45 when running 16" and 17" wheels so keep that in mind

I run 16x8 205/45s up front and 16x9 225/45s rear and its perfect for me.

thanks dood this is really helpful

I was thinking of running 15s on the front and 16s on the back. Will it look weird?

15s and 17s*
superbuytires.com/wheel/Katana/KR21.html
katana kr21 I can get rpf1 look alikes for 350 but they only come in 15s and 17s

>Miata>mr2

Surreal. Looks like a videogame.
very nice photo

>be miata
>get absolutely wrecked in class by a mister2.
>can't out track it, auto-x, toegay it.
:3

I'd just buy the 17s square and stagger the tires
that wheel stagger will change the handling pretty awkwardly
just nah

Ive been eyeing some 300zx turbo wheels if your looking for a sort of stock look. They usually run 5-600 a set

dude my mr2 eats miatas all DAY on the track